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MEMOIR 


J. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


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A 


MEMOIR 


J. D. PAXTON, D.D., 


LATE OF PRINCETON, INDIANA. 


PHILADELPHIA : 

J. B. LIPPINCOTT & CO. 
1870. 


e '*Ti 


3/ q a 'v - 5“ 


Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1870, by 
J. B. LIPPINCOTT & CO., 

In the Clerk’s Office of the District Court of the United States for the Eastern 

District of Pennsylvania. 


PREFACE. 


If any apology is necessary for bringing before the 
public eye what was intended for private friends, the com- 
piler would state that a request being made to Dr. Paxton, 
a few weeks before his death, that he would furnish an 
account of some of the principal events of his life, for the 
use of the church, led him, after declining by reason of 
inability, to say, “There is something of that kind that I 
wrote some time ago. I do not know that it will do any 
good. I wrote, thinking it might be satisfactory to my 
family to know more of my history. You will find the 
record among my papers, and must judge what is best to 
be done with it.” He was then beyond the influence of 
considerations which, at another period of his life, would 
have been potent. As his life had been given to the 
service of his Saviour, he was then willing to submit to 
others the record of that life, if in their judgment it was 
adapted to promote the interests of his church. 

The perusal of the record produced the impression that 
it was a faithful account of the dealings of God with a 
human soul. The propriety of giving to the church a 
memoir of my husband, compiled from materials in my 

i* (v) 


VI 


PREFACE. 


possession, was taken under consideration. Consulting 
with an experienced friend, he decided that it was best to 
be done, and that I was the one to do it. I accordingly 
made known my intention of publishing a memoir, pro- 
vided sufficient encouragement should be given in favor- 
able responses to my announcement. The reception of 
the announcement has been such as to induce me to 
publish the work. 

A few extracts from letters of young pastors will show 
their opinions of the “enterprise.” “I think the world 
has lost much by allowing such examples of piety and use- 
fulness to be buried out of sight. I would rather have 
the life of Dr. Alexander than all the productions of his 
great mind that have come from the press. Giving a 
faithful memoir of Dr. P. to the public would be extend- 
ing the influence of his whole life-work, which would be 
felt throughout the church. If your strength will permit, 
it will save you an immense amount of annoyance to per- 
form the work yourself. You know more of his inner life 
than any other.” 

“I was rejoiced,” writes a second, “to hear that you 
are about to publish Dr. P.’s memoir. I shall place it 
alongside of the lives of Alexander, Baker, and Rice, and 
value it more than all, for I was acquainted with him. ’ ’ 

“I know there is just such material in Dr. P.’s life as 
is now greatly needed in the church, not only among the 
people, but greatly needed among the ministry. It does 
seem to me that there is a lack of that consecration to the 
work of the Master among our young ministers that we 


PREFACE. 


Vll 


find among the old fathers that are so fast passing from us. 
If their memories are not preserved in our libraries, their 
example of zeal and sound doctrine will soon be lost to 
the church. Young men now are too easily discouraged ; 
they need the lessons of patient endurance of hardships, 
and prayerful strugglings with self and ambition, which 
can only be found in the lives of those that have passed 
away. The memoirs of a century ago are too much like a 
myth to have the desired effect ; we want the example of 
those of whom we have some certain knowledge of their 
having been living realities.” 

The work is composed of an autobiography, a diary, 
kept for many years, and sketches of travel, blended in a 
continuous narrative; and whatever is added from per- 
sonal recollection is but a sincere attempt at a faithful 
representation of facts. 

The doctor, for the most part, tells his own story, and 
in his own way. That he did not claim perfection is 
manifest from the prominence he gave to his faults, that 
were better known to himself than to others, and are in- 
serted to show the use he made of them, as also the little 
annoyances he sometimes met with from others. No un- 
pleasant feelings will be awakened, for the actors in those 
scenes have all passed away. Their foot-marks show that 
they were of like passions with the present generation. 

The writer had no wish to represent the subject of the 
memoir as dwelling in an upper region of sanctity, ab- 
sorbed in acts of devotion, or performing acts of public 
worship, unconcerned about the low things of earth, but 


Vlll 


PREFACE. 


has aimed to show how he brought a heavenly influence 
down from that upper region to hallow the common, 
every-day concerns of life. As life is made up chiefly of 
little things, some of these have been introduced as illus- 
trations, with the conviction that, with a great number 
of persons, these will form the most interesting, as well 
as most instructive, part of the work. 

In the belief that there are many that will recall the 
image of this good man with reverence and affection, and 
will look with favor on the attempt of their old friend to 
perpetuate his memory, the volume is submitted to the 
public. 

To the youth whose parents would have read the work 
with interest I say, Thy father’s and thy mother’s friend 
forget not ! To the reading and religious public — I do 
not ask you to buy the book as a charity, but I do re- 
spectfully solicit your patronage and assistance in the 
circulation of it, as without it my object cannot well be 
accomplished. 

M. W. P. 

Princeton, Ind., May 28, 1869. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER I. 

Parentage — Family Training — Tales of Frontier Life — Religious 
Experience — Business — Profession of Religion — New Views — 
Temptations — Efforts to obtain a Liberal Education — Prepara- 
tion for the Ministry — Providences — Three Years at Washing- 
ton College, Virginia — Notices of Teachers — Students — Facts 
about College — Ministers in the Vicinity — Anecdote — Hamp- 
den Sidney College, Virginia — Expectations — Duties in College 
— Trials — Views of the Ministerial Office — Decision — Tribute 
to the Memory of a Beloved Sister — Theological Students 13 

CHAPTER II. 

Licensure — Missionary Tours — Experience as a Preacher — Horse 
lamed, and the Consequences — Journeys and Labors — Contro- 
versies in Tennessee — Difficulties in the way of Settlement — 
Reasons for going to Norfolk, Va. — War — Labors — Ordination 
— Success — Important Events — Mental Trials — General Assem- 
blies of 1815 and 1818 — Remarks 49 

CHAPTER III. 

More Labors in Virginia — Installation at Goochland, Va. — Mar- 
riage — Call to College Church — College and Seminary — Colo- 
nization — Emancipating Slaves — Consequences — Removal to 
New Jersey — Family Afflictions — Labors in Pennsylvania — 
Travel in New England — Residence in Kentucky — Installation 
at Danville — Departure for Europe 68 


(ix) 


X 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER IV. 

Voyage — Liverpool Docks — Manchester — Birmingham Cutlery — 
Warwick and Kenilworth Castles — Roads — Stage — London — 
Guy Fawkes’ Day — Lord Mayor’s Show Day — Church Reform 
— Caricature — Wine Cellars — Newspapers — Postage — Museum 
— Thames — Dover Cliffs — France — Diligence — Beggars — 
Lamps — Religion — Schools — Will of Louis XVI. — How to 
make Saints — A Widow’s Proposal — Carnival — Morgue — At- 
tempt to Force a Union of Churches — Preachers — Religious 
Meeting — Episcopal School — Concert of Prayer — An Inquirer 
— Bost — Ordination of Missionaries — An Aged Disciple — Four 
Months’ Observations of Parisian Manners and Customs — 
Tombs of Two Dukes — Lyons — A. Monod 

CHAPTER V. 

Geneva — Persecution — Centennial Celebration — Scenery — Cham- 
bery — Road to Turin — Chasm — Mount Cenis — Chapels of the 
Virgin — Library — Battle - field — Protestant Service — Genoa — 
View from the Bay — Leghorn — Falling Tower — Indulgences — 
Annoyances — Rome — Tivoli — Prussian Ambassador — Family 
Scene — Reading Rooms — Popery at Home — Bible at Rome — 
Successors of Peter — Lovely Valleys — Cultivated Mountains — 
Capua — A Smuggler — Pontine Marshes — Naples — Hercula- 
neum — Vesuvius — Pompeii — Protestant Efforts — King’s Birth- 
day — St. Janarius — St. Peter’s Chair — Delaware and Potomac 
— Voyage to Malta 


CHAPTER VI. 

Malta — History — People — Saint Lucia’s Festival — Santa Agatha’s 
Veil-Legends — Festa del Bara — Baptism of a Dead Child — 
Many Languages — Opposition to the Bible — The Chaplain’s 
Ball — Evenings on the House-top — J. Wolff and Lady Georgi- 
ana — Society — Miraculous Cures — Casting out a Devil — Ob- 
servatory — Monks — Proclamation of Don Carlos — Christmas — 
An Admission — Levee — Fasting 


CONTENTS. 


xi 


CHAPTER VII. 

Voyage to Corfu — Education — Corinth — Athens — Funeral — King 
of Bavaria — Excitement among the Ladies of Syra — Scio — 
Missionary Meeting at Smyrna — Ephesus — Grave-yards — Wor- 
ship at a Mosque — Hebrew Prayer-Book 239 

CHAPTER VIII. 

Constantinople — Fiddling and Dancing in a Grave-yard — Ob- 
jects of Interest — Sultan’s Kitchen — Chalcedon — Sultan attend- 
ing Mosque — Ceremonies and Festivities of the Espousal and 
Marriage of Sultan’s Daughter — Circumcision of his Two Sons 
— Broosa — Pleasant Greeting — Mausoleum of Bajazet — Bath k 
la Turk — Nice — Fruit — Nicomedia — Turkish Post — Bosphorus 
— Whirling Dervishes — Rhodes — Cyprus. 264 

CHAPTER IX. 

Palestine and Egypt — Return to the United States — Reasons and 
Explanations — Sixteen Years’ Residence in Kentucky as Pastor 
of Mulberry Church, Shelby County 296 

CHAPTER X. 

Removal to Indiana — Five Years in Princeton, Indiana — Tour 
to Minnesota and Kansas — Three Years in Kansas — Return to 
Princeton — Last Years of Labor — Decline and Death 318 

CHAPTER XI. 

Traits of Character — Published Volumes: Sermons — Essays — 
Habits — Conclusion 335 



MEMOIR. 


CHAPTER I. 


Parentage — Family Training — Tales of Frontier Life — Religious 
Experience — Business — Profession of Religion — New Views — 
Temptations — Efforts to obtain a Liberal Education — Preparation 
for the Ministry — Providences — Three Years at Washington Col- 
lege, Virginia — Notices of Teachers — Students — Facts about College 
— Ministers in the Vicinity — Anecdote — Hampden Sidney College, 
Virginia — Expectations — Duties in College — Trials — Views of the 
Ministerial Office — Decision — Tribute to the Memory of a Beloved 
Sister — Theological Students. 


NDER the impression that it may be agreeable to 



my family to have some written account of my life, 
which in several respects has been an eventful one, I have 
made the following record. It is drawn up from notes 
made from time to time, from about the period I sought 
an education with a view to the ministry, together with my 
recollections of the past events. 

I was born September 28, 1784. My father’s plantation 
lay on the south side of James River, near its junction with 
the North, in what was called The Forks, Rockbridge 
County, Virginia. My father, John Paxton, was the oldest 
son of Thomas Paxton, who owned the boat-yard at the 
junction of Buffalo Creek with the North River. My 
mother was Sarah Walker, oldest daughter of Joseph 


(i3) 


2 


14 


MEMOIR OF 


Walker, who lived on Carr’s Creek, a little north of where 
Lexington now stands, the county-seat of Rockbridge 
County, Virginia. Mr. Walker was born in Ireland, July, 
1722. He was brought to America when a youth, and 
married, March, 1749, Nancy McLung, in Augusta County, 
Virginia. He was a ruling elder in the Monmouth Church, 
which embraced what afterward formed the churches of 
Lexington, Monmouth, Oxford, and others. Later in life 
he moved, as did most of his family, to Kentucky, and 
finished his days near Cherry Spring, Kentucky. 

My grandfather Thomas and his brother William were 
ruling elders in the Presbyterian Falling Spring Church, 
Rockbridge County, Virginia, before the time of the 
American Revolution. After the death of my grandfather, 
my father succeeded him as ruling elder in the same con- 
gregation, which office he filled above fifty years. At his 
death, his second son Joseph (of the Forks James River) 
was made an elder in his place ; and I have lately learned 
that since my brother Joseph’s death, his oldest son, 
Thomas P. Paxton (of the Forks), has been made an elder 
in his place. Thus four elders of the same family in the 
same congregation have followed each other, the son suc- 
ceeding the father, filling the space of nearly one hundred 
years. 

In the early times of my father and mother, Augusta 
County, from which Rockbridge was afterward set off, was 
a frontier county, and much exposed to inroads from the In- 
dians. The settlements on Carr’s Creek were several times 
cut off while my mother was young. The families in that 
region, in those times of danger, lived in forts. The men 
would go out by day and attend to their farms, and return 
to the fort at night. Her father sometimes took her with 
him to the farm to cook for him. She said she would hurry 
and wash the dishes, put things in order, and then go to the 


J. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


*5 


field where her father was at work, being afraid to remain 
in the house alone. More than once, when a part of the 
settlers on the creek were attacked by the Indians, the 
family did not leave the house until they saw the smoke of 
the burning houses at the upper part of the creek. Many 
lives were lost by these Indian massacres. In attending 
worship on the Sabbath, the men often went armed, thus 
prepared to defend themselves and families. Many moving 
tale's of frontier adventure have passed away unrecorded 
with the generation in which they happened. They were 
often referred to in conversation. I will record one as 
related by my mother. 

Her father was one day plowing in his field ; no one 
was with him, or at the house. A boy came running to 
him, so completely out of breath that he could do no more 
than stammer out “ Indian !” and point to the creek. That 
was enough to designate the cause. Mr. Walker did not 
take time to loose the gears, but with his knife cut the fast- 
enings and threw them off, lifted the boy on one of the 
horses, mounted the other, and made for the fort, which 
they reached in safety. The boy stated that he was at a 
plantation on the other side of the creek, and had climbed 
up into an apple-tree to get some apples. That while he was 
in the tree an Indian came under it, picked up an apple or 
two, but happened not to look up. His attention seemed 
directed across the creek, where he could hear Mr. W. 
speaking to his horses. The Indian started down to the 
creek, and the boy supposed his object was to cross and kill 
Mr. W. As soon as the Indian had gone so far that the 
boy could venture, he came down from the tree ; but as the 
Indian had taken the direct way, he had no alternative but 
to take a circuitous route and cross above where the Indian 
was, and make up in speed what he lost in distance. In 
doing this, he was completely exhausted when he reached 


i6 


MEMOIR OF 


Mr. W. It was nobly and successfully done, and in no 
other way, probably, could he have saved Mr. W.’s life. 

Both my parents were, I believe, truly pious, and that 
from early life. I have been told by old men who knew 
him, that from his boyhood my father was a praying per- 
son ; and one of the earliest things I can remember is that 
of going with my mother when she retired for prayer. 
She would make me, and any other of the children who 
might be with her, kneel down by her side while she 
prayed. Though I may not have had adequate concep- 
tions of the import of the duty, the importance which 
mother attached to it made an impression on my mind. 
Family worship was a duty seldom, if ever, omitted. When 
my father was absent, it was conducted by my mother. 
This also made its impression on me. I was taught the 
Lord’s prayer and some others, and was told that I ought 
to pray morning and evening, and did, with some de- 
gree of regularity, perform that duty. While growing up 
I was made to learn the Catechism and read the Word of 
God. 

My parents were strict observers of the Sabbath and con- 
stant at church, unless justifiable circumstances prevented. 
We lived seven miles from Falling Spring Church and nine 
from High Bridge,* between which the Rev. S. Houston 
divided his time. We had the James River to cross, often 
too deep to ford, in going to both places, and Sally’s 
Mountain to pass over in reaching Falling Spring. This 
last church we always attended, and in good weather some 
of the family were found at High Bridge. It took most of 
the day to go, attend the service, and return. In the sum- 
mer there were usually two sermons, with an interval of half 
an hour ; in the winter but one service. 


* Two miles from Natural Bridge, Cedar Creek. 


y. D. PAXTON, D.D. ' 


17 


As the family was large — five sons and four daughters — 
and had not horses for all to ride, I, with some of my 
brothers, often walked to church. At times I felt some re- 
luctance, but almost always while there attending worship 
I was glad I had come, and thought I would not again feel 
disinclined, and for several days was more attentive to the 
duty of prayer. This with me, however, seemed almost 
the whole of religion. 

Our situation south of the river cut us off a good deal 
from a free intercourse with the neighborhood and less- 
ened our school advantages, but in other respects ^as 
rather favorable, limiting that abundant intercourse with 
other youth which is often unfavorable to morals. As I 
grew up I began more and more to desire to take part in 
those pleasures and amusements indulged in by the young 
with whom I at times associated ; felt sometimes that the 
restraints laid on me by my parents were not wholly agree- 
able, and almost envied those youth whose parents allowed 
them to follow their own pleasure. 

My father, having no property but his farm and fixtures, 
could do little more than support his family, and had little 
prospect of giving his children much of an outfit to begin 
the world with. It was thought best that most of his sons 
should engage in business or learn some trade, as a means 
of providing for themselves. My oldest brother and my 
youngest two, with myself, engaged in business, while my 
second brother remained on the farm and gradually assumed 
the charge of the family and became possessor of the prop- 
erty. My sisters all married and became the mothers of 
families, and have descendants to the third and fourth gen- 
eration. I continued with my father and worked on the 
farm until I was in my nineteenth year. 

In the spring of 1802 a revival of religion took place in 
Bedford County. A large party, mostly of young people, 


1 8 MEMOIR OF 

went from Rockbridge to attend a sacramental meeting. 
Dr. Baxter and Rev. Blane accompanied them. Brother 
Joseph and two of my sisters were of the party. Almost the 
whole of this company were deeply impressed. On their 
return a considerable revival was manifest in Rockbridge, 
and a number made profession of religion, — among them 
one of my brothers and three of my sisters. I considered 
this a favorable time to engage in religion, and, as I thought, 
did so. I reflected more on the matter, prayed more, at- 
tended preaching and the prayer meetings' with more inter- 
es^.nd even pleasure. 

With the consent of my parents, I left home about this 
time, to reside in Liberty, Bedford County, with Mr. M., 
remaining with him three years, and mastering the business 
which he followed. The revival was at its height at that 
place, and a glorious work of God it was. The whole com- 
munity were more or less affected, and a great number added 
to the church. I felt a singular delight in the matter, and 
gave close attention to the means of grace. Hearing per- 
sons relate their religious experience, and comparing my 
own exercises with theirs, I at length concluded that my 
feelings amounted to a religious experience. I had convic- 
tions, fears, sorrows, and joys ; at times my heart felt hard 
and cold and my affections wandering ; at others my heart 
would melt, my tears flow, and my feelings were of a pleas- 
ing and joyful kind. I recollect one night I had such joy- 
ful feelings that I felt a wish that I might die before morn- 
ing. I knew almost nothing of the wickedness of my 
heart, but thought those imperfections which I discovered 
in myself constituted that depravity of which I heard so much 
said in preaching and in the conversation of God’s people. 
When I heard any temper described as belonging to reli- 
gion, I tried to excite it in myself and often thought that 
I succeeded. 


y. D. PAXTON i D.D. 


*9 


I thought it my duty to make a public profession of reli- 
gion, but felt a kind of superstitious dread of it. In try- 
ing to prepare for it I spent much time in reading, prayer, 
and self-examination. I was much more impressed with the 
sin of neglecting to confess Christ and commemorate his 
death, than with the privilege of so doing. I had very in- 
correct notions of the nature and design of the ordinance, 
and a strange, superstitious idea of the benefit to be derived 
from it. I was sadly blind to the spirituality of the gospel 
and the disorders of my own heart. 

I connected myself with Peaks Church in the spring of 
1803. At the sacramental table, was unusually dull and 
hard-hearted, and left in an uncomfortable frame of mind. 
Good feelings were what I desired ; not possessing these I 
was very unhappy, feared I had partaken unworthily, and 
was greatly depressed. After spending the evening in re- 
tirement and having a return of softer and more comfort- 
able feelings, I again hoped that all was well. 

A few months after this, the sacrament was to be admin- 
istered at Pisgah and I designed to attend. As the time 
drew near I devoted more time to preparation, hoping that 
I might have more enjoyment in the ordinance than I had 
before. It was Tuesday or Wednesday morning previous to 
the Sabbath, and while engaged in private prayer, that I 
saw with a convincing clearness that I was altogether mis- 
taken as to my hope of an interest in Christ. It seemed 
as plain as light, that I had not really repented, did not 
truly believe in Christ, had no love to God and divine 
things. These new views threw me into the most fearful 
perplexity and alarm. At times they would fade away, 
leaving me in a darkness of mind, as to my situation, which 
might well be compared to the case of a person who, in a 
dark night, walks with a lamp which suddenly goes out. I 
could not, at pleasure, recall those views nor continue 


20 


MEMOIR OF 


them. The strong impression of what they had discovered 
to me was left and filled me with fears, I may almost say 
with terrors. From time to time these new views, with 
more or less clearness, returned, and were followed, after a 
longer or shorter time, with more or less of this distressing 
darkness. This continued for weeks and months. 

I did not attend the sacramental meeting, but spent the 
Sabbath alone, and most of it in prayer. For weeks and 
months I was hardly able to pursue my usual avocations. 
My business allowed me some leisure, and my custom was, 
as soon as I could finish, which was about the middle of the 
afternoon, to withdraw, with my Bible or some religious 
book, to a grove in the vicinity, and spend the remainder 
of the day, and sometimes part of the night, in religious 
exercises. I was occasionally favored with calm moments ; 
and at times they came to my relief when under such fear- 
ful paroxysms of alarms, fears and distress, that I must now 
consider them as sent in mercy to keep me from despair or 
self- ruin. 

As I had never made myself acquainted with the evi- 
dences of Christianity, I was presently involved in doubt on 
the whole matter. So harassed was I with doubts that I well 
remember that I most earnestly desired to see a Jew, hoping 
that the sight might help to confirm my belief in the truth 
of the Bible. 

From the singular manner in which my mind was exer- 
cised on this matter, I must now believe it was a violent 
temptation, as occasionally almost everything appeared to 
be involved in uncertainty. As a general thing, I felt that 
I ought to be thankful to God that He had caused me to 
see the mistake into which I had fallen, and much of a 
spirit of prayer that He would lead me to a saving knowl- 
edge of the truth. I can well recollect that often, when 
assailed with doubts as to the truth of almost everything 


J. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


21 


connected with religion, the steady, consistent piety of my 
mother has served as a support — as something real, and I 
have laid hold of that for support, feeling confident that my 
mother’s religion was sincere and there must be truth in it. 

I was often distressed with the most awful and blasphe- 
mous thoughts. They would follow me to all places, and 
in all employments, and most grievously disturb me in 
prayer and in all the duties of religion. I found it impos- 
sible to banish them from my mind. They almost drove 
me to despair ; for I did not then imagine there was any 
agency of Satan in it, as I now believe there was. It 
seemed to me that a fountain of wickedness had been 
opened in my heart, of which, till then, I had no concep- 
tion. 

Sometimes there was a disposition to murmur that God 
had left me to such sorrows. I envied God’s people who 
enjoyed his favor. Hard thoughts would arise against 
Him who had suffered me thus to deceive myself. I knew 
such thoughts were sinful, but could not get clear of them ; 
they haunted me. 

I looked for something great and almost miraculous; 
something that would remove all doubts and darkness and 
evil at once; but what it was, or how it was to come, I 
knew not. I was very diligent in the use of the means of 
grace; read, fasted, and prayed, and attended the preach- 
ing of the gospel ; going sometimes ten, fifteen, or twenty 
miles to protracted meetings, in hope of finding relief. 

After such special efforts, when no change took place, 
and the eager effort seemed to leave me more hard and un- 
feeling, a spirit of murmuring and rebellion would take 
possession of me ; thoughts would arise that it was vain to 
seek God ; that my case was a lost one ; that grace would 
not be granted ; and that perdition would be my portion. 
While these thoughts and feelings held possession of my 


22 


MEMOIR OF 


mind and baffled all efforts to banish them, I passed some 
of the most unhappy moments of my life. Those very 
feelings of rebellion, those murmurings, made me tremble 
with apprehension lest God would let loose his hand against 
me. I sometimes think that while in this rebellious frame 
of mind, I felt in kind , if not in degree, the torments of 
the damned. 

At other times my heart would melt, a feeling of resig- 
nation would pervade my mind, my tears would flow, I 
would feel that I was in the hands of God, and that it was 
right that He should do what appeared best in his sight. A 
faint hope would spring up that, as God had shown me my 
error, He possibly might save me. Such moments were as 
cordials to my soul, — merciful alleviations of a distress 
almost insupportable ; and from the way and time in which 
they came, I must believe they are to be ascribed to the 
good Spirit of God, who was even then guiding me, though 
I knew it not. 

For some time after I had discovered my error, I was 
much distressed with the fear that, as the revival was now 
past, people becoming careless, and some beginning to fall 
away, I should not be able to obtain a hope in Christ. I 
had passed through the revival without receiving the bless- 
ing, and feared it could not then be obtained. There was 
less preaching, the prayer meetings nearly given up, — and 
what was to become of me ! 

Another thought gave me much trouble. Observing that 
in most families while some professed to have religion 
others did not, — that it was only occasionally that all the 
members professed a hope in Christ, and as most of my 
father’s family had professed a hope, I feared that I was 
the one who was never to obtain it, but be lost forever. 
The fact that I had been left to deceive myself and make a 
false profession was strong proof that this must be the case, 


y. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


23 


and almost drove me to despair. I avoided all society 
as much as possible, even that of religious persons with 
whom I had been intimate. Thinking they must suppose 
me one of the vilest wretches on earth, for having made 
profession of religion when I had none, I wished to avoid 
their sight. 

The degree of my distress, and my irregularity as to food 
and sleep, so wasted my flesh and spirits that my friends 
became apprehensive that the consequences might be fatal. 
Several conversed with me and thought I had religion, and 
tried to comfort me with this hope, but being fully satisfied 
that I had been deceived in making a profession while my 
heart was not renewed, such conversations, designed to 
prove that I was only in a state of darkness and temptation, 
served to make me more averse to talk on the matter. I 
feared they might lead me to rest on something short of 
true holiness, and thus cause my ruin. I felt, however, the 
force of the reasons adduced by the Rev. Houston, why I 
should take more care of my bodily health, be more regu- 
lar as to food and sleep. I followed his advice and was 
benefited by it. 

As those agonizing fears and terrors which followed me 
at the first discovery of my error gradually abated, and 
those terrible temptations passed away, I verily thought I 
could perceive the process of heart-hardening going on. 
I often tried to bring back my former fears and terrors. I 
tried to alarm myself with the awful danger that appeared 
just before me. But this, like all my other efforts, proved 
unavailing. The very intensity of my anxiety to feel led 
me to believe that I did not feel at all. The result, how- 
ever, was that it gave rise to a deep and abiding impression 
that God must do all or I should be lost ; that there was 
no help in me ; that no arm could reach the case but the 
arm of the Lord. 


24 


MEMOIR OF 


About this time I read the “Life of Newton” and Dr. 
Scott’s “Force of Truth” with decided benefit. I there 
saw that Dr. Scott himself had not only professed religion, 
but had entered the ministry ; had not only partaken of 
the Lord’s Supper, but had administered it to others, while, 
as he stated, he had no real piety; and yet God had visited 
him with his grace and led him along from unsound opinions 
and irregular practice to real piety, godly living, and great 
usefulness in the church. This relieved my mind greatly 
from the idea it long labored under, that to make a false 
profession of religion, and to partake of the Lord’s Supper 
in an unworthy manner, was nearly, if not altogether, the 
unpardonable sin. The wonderful way in which Newton 
was led, the deep depravity and sin from which he was re- 
covered and made a useful minister of the gospel, served to 
strengthen the impression made by the “Force of Truth,” 
that much as I might have sinned in making a profession 
of religion while I did not possess it, there might still be 
hope in my case. 

My doubts about the truth of religion began gradually 
to vanish, — my fearful apprehensions to abate ; calm reflec- 
tion became easier and more natural; my views of the plan 
of salvation more clear and consistent. I began to be 
pleased with the sovereignty of God, to feel the suitable- 
ness of the gospel plan, and my heart came more and more 
to rest with a pleasing satisfaction in this way of mercy, as 
meeting the wants of my guilty, weak, and polluted soul. 
The Lord “ led me in a way that I knew not, and in paths 
I had not known, He made darkness light before me and 
crooked things straight and did not utterly forsake me.” 

If there was any particular time or place at which I first 
obtained a hope of religion, I am not able to point it out. 
It was more like the gradual dawning of the morning than 
the sudden removal from darkness to light. 


J. D. PAXTON ; D.D. 


25 


I recollect a time and place during this progress in my 
religious experience when my views were more than usually 
clear as to the suitableness and fullness of the gospel pro- 
visions, and when my heart rested with unusual complacency 
and satisfaction on the Saviour; but these views and feel- 
ings differed rather in degree than in kind from those I had 
experienced before. 

A recollection of my former mistake kept alive fears in 
my mind, which held me back from approaching that ordi- 
nance. At length I saw and deeply felt that the church 
and its ordinances were designed for the benefit of all who 
loved God and sought his favor through Christ ; that not 
only the strong but the weak ought to acknowledge God in 
the way of his appointment. I saw that I was sinful, weak, 
and erring; without God’s grace I never should be able to 
progress in religion or glorify Him ; that He had instituted 
his church and ordinances as a way in which his people 
were to profess Him before the world and thus honor Him ; 
and it was very plain that all needed grace might more rea- 
sonably be hoped for in his appointed way than in stand- 
ing apart from the church. Besides, Christ had enjoined it 
as a duty on all who expected God’s favor through Him. I 
should therefore have more confidence in coming to Him 
for blessings, than I could have while neglecting his com- 
mands. With these views I renewed my religious profes- 
sions in the fall of 1805. 

My mind on that occasion was deeply but comfortably 
exercised. My views on the great and leading truths of 
religion were unusually clear. I saw my weakness, defile- 
ment, and the utter disorder of my nature ; my entire de- 
pendence upon divine grace for everything that is good ; 
the suitableness and fullness of the grace of Christ, and 
how He could order all that regarded me for his glory 
and my good. I felt my heart, with much satisfaction and 

3 


26 


MEMOIR OF 


delight, acquiescing in this plan of salvation, — giving up all 
my interests, both temporal and spiritual, into the hands of 
Christ, to be disposed of as He saw best. Especially did I 
see how much I needed that God would save me from my 
disposition to choose, devise, and act for myself ; that He 
would work in me, to will and to do his good pleasure. 
Never have I enjoyed more inward peace than while at the 
table of the Lord, and never have I doubted since that I 
did right in thus professing the name of Christ. 

Soon after the discovery of my error, and even during 
that period in which I suffered such awful terrors and temp- 
tations, the thought began to occur that possibly God might 
purpose, through these trials, to prepare me to serve Him in 
the gospel of his son. Why such a thought should rise in 
my mind I could not tell. It seemed presumptuous and 
almost wicked for such a sinner to think of such a thing. 
My plans for life, also, seemed settled, and everything 
against it; but still, from time to time the thought did 
occur. However, it was only occasionally and with little 
interest. My mind was too deeply affected with my spir- 
itual condition to allow it a place. But as I began to un- 
derstand, and rest on, and find peace in the plan of salva- 
tion through Christ, the thought returned more frequently 
and with greater force, until it became the subject of serious 
and almost constant meditation, though I named it to no 
one. 

While at my father’s on a visit, mother asked me whether 
I had “any thought of preparing for the ministry.” The 
question startled me. I hardly knew what to reply. Up 
to that time I had repelled the thought. I rather evaded 
the question, and intimated that I would most likely follow 
the business in which I was engaged, for that was my pre- 
vailing opinion. The question made an impression which 
surprised me, and much increased my thought and feeling 


y. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


27 


about it. My engagements with Mr. M. terminating about 
this time, obliged me to decide what course I should pursue. 

Some advantageous offers were made me for entering into 
business and making a settlement in the world ; but now I 
found that my feelings were not free to do it, such a hold 
had the above thoughts taken on my mind. I often tried 
to reason myself clear of them, considering I had already 
chosen my business ; I had not the means of procuring an 
education ; I was too old to enter on so long a course of 
study ; I had no evidence that it was my duty to prepare to 
preach the gospel, — with many considerations of this sort. 
But the more I reasoned on the matter the greater reluc- 
tance I had to engage in any plan of life until satisfied on 
this point. I engaged, therefore, temporarily in business 
for another, making it a matter of special prayer that the 
Lord would so order matters, so dispose my mind and so 
enable me to see his hand, that I might know what He 
would have me to do. 

At the end of six months my employer sold out to one 
who did not need my aid, and I was thrown entirely out of 
employment, and, as it were, forced to come to some deci- 
sion. Far from feeling certain that it was, or ever would 
be, my duty to preach the gospel, I concluded to begin a 
course of study, watch the indications of Providence, and 
make it a subject of special prayer that God would enable 
me to see 'duty and incline me to it. 

But where could I find a school that would suit me ? I 
felt great reluctance to going at once to a public school. 
While perplexed about this matter, and detained in Bedford 
a few days, before setting out to visit father’s family, a 
friend offered me his horse to visit Mr. G., a relative, who 
lived some dozen miles off. The offer was unexpected, 
and but for it I should not have made the visit. Inquiry 
was made as to my plans, and on mentioning my intention 


28 


MEMOIR OF 


of entering a certain school at Richmond, was informed 
that it was closed. This disconcerted me so much that it 
was noticed by my relative, and he told me of a school 
close by, which promised to be more like what I wished for 
than the other. The whole train of events which led to 
the knowledge of this school passed before my mind, and 
seemed so striking a providential series of things, that I 
felt “Surely the hand of God is here.” If I had not been 
detained sorely against my will ; if my acquaintance had not 
offered me the use of his horse; if I had not mentioned 
my plans to Mr. G., which I had not done to any one be- 
fore ; if he had not heard of the discontinuance of the 
school in R. that I had selected; if he had not named the 
other, which had just begun, I might have crossed the 
mountains and been involved in great perplexities as to 
the future. The Providence of God was seen, and a 
degree of gratitude and humble trust sprang up, refreshing 
to my soul. 

My plan was soon formed. I closed my business, visited 
and consulted my father’s family, who, while they could 
not promise much aid, did not object to my purpose ; my 
parents, and especially my sisters, approving, I returned, 
and commenced my studies with Rev. J. M., February, 
1 806, being near the middle of the twenty-second year of 
my age. For five months I confined my attention almost 
wholly to the Latin language, and in the opinion of my 
teacher made good progress. At the end of the session, 
my means were too far exhausted to enter for another. I 
was averse to incurring debt. This, with other reasons^ 
prevented me from continuing longer at M. 

I continued my studies several months at home, liable 
to many interruptions, and greatly needing assistance. 
Spent a few weeks with Mr. Houston and made several at- 
tempts to procure a place as an assistant in a private school, 


y. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


29 


but failed. I had few friends that could help me, and none 
offered to do it. I could not bring myself to ask it ; my 
prospects were dark and I was much cast down. I tried to 
get into business, solely for the purpose of procuring means 
to pursue my studies, but no door was opened. My father 
visited his daughters in Tennessee, and I remained with 
my mother in his absence. About this time I began to 
keep a Journal. 

August , 1806. From some conversation and behavior of 
a young preacher, I have been led to think very seriously 
of the solemnity of a religious profession; and the care 
with which professors should guard their conversation, 
especially on the Sabbath. How apt are we to fall into 
error! Under a deep impression of my shortcoming in 
duty, I resolved that beside my morning and evening 
period of prayer, I would spend a short portion of time 
about the middle of each day in devotion, with special 
reference to seeking Divine help, that I may adorn the 
gospel and guard against the many temptations daily met 
with. 

December 4. My hopes of assistance from R. have failed. 
It was not offered and I could not bring myself to ask it. 
Sensible of my dependence on God for temporal and 
spiritual things, and my special need of Divine direction, 

I have spent this day in fasting and prayer. God has 
brought me thus far, and will He now forsake me ? No, 

I will still wait on Him and trust in Him. 

December 8. Bedford. — Nothing having taken place, 
which indicated what I had better do, it occurred to me to 
visit this place and see what might offer. I had a solitary 
and gloomy ride, and find many of my acquaintances dead. 
May I be ready for that solemn call. 

December 15. I have attempted to return to my father’s, 
but have been prevented by the ice. After reaching the 

3 * 


3 ° 


MEMOIR OF 


top of the mountain, with much difficulty, I found it im- 
possible to descend on the north side, owing to the ice, 
which covered the whole face of the mountain. A cold 
rain and sleet had fallen and frozen so hard, that it would 
bear my horse ; the steepness of the mountain on the north 
side made it impossible to descend without the most immi- 
nent danger. I had to return and wait till it would pass 
away. I was much endangered on my return on the south 
side, but in the good Providence of God escaped serious 
harm. 

My mind has been much disquieted. My path is dark; 
I know not what I ought to do. Oh, that I could feel 
more resigned to the will of God ! He knows what is best 
and has thus ordered my lot, and shall I murmur ? He can 
easily provide for all my wants. “ The earth is the Lord’s 
and the fullness thereof.” 

In the time of man’s extremity God often appears for 
help. A very opportune and unexpected proposal was 
made me, while in Bedford. Mr. B., an old schoolmate, 
proposed that we should spend a month or two alternately 
with each other, and study together. I readily assented. 
He has been studying more than twice as long as I have, 
and will be of much assistance to me. I will try and be 
diligent and make him study. He is inclined to waste 
time. 

April 17, 1807. Washington College, Lexington, 
Virginia. — The ways of God are not as ours, but we ought 
to observe them, and mark how He leads us and fulfills 
his word. My arrangement with B. did not last as long 
as was contemplated. He altered his plan, after we had 
spent a month together at his father’s. It was profitable 
to me while it lasted. I returned home again and was 
much in the dark as to my future prospects. The spring 
was about setting in, and my fear of public schools having 


J. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


3 1 


somewhat worn off, I was desirous of spending the follow- 
ing summer at Washington College ; but I had no means 
and knew not where or how they could be had. My desire 
for an education, and with a view of entering the ministry, 
if I could see it my duty, had much increased; all the 
difficulties met with never caused me, for an hour, to repent 
having begun to study. 

In the midst of my perplexity, it occurred to me to pro- 
pose to my father to take charge of a boat he was about 
sending with a load of flour to Richmond, requesting that 
he would allow me the profits of a second trip. He as- 
sented at once, for he was prevented from aiding me before, 
not from disinclination, but owing to some pecuniary em- 
barrassment under which he lay. I hasted and overtook 
the boat, which had started under the care of brother 
Joseph, who, on account of sickness in his family, was 
very glad to be relieved from the command, completed 
two trips to Richmond before the commencement of the 
session in college, and thus secured what, with strict 
economy, and the help of the family, supported me one 
session. 

My business as a boatman was not accomplished without 
exposure and some narrow escapes. In making my second 
trip, the one for myself, the boat struck a rock in the Irish 
Falls, one of the worst falls in the James River where it 
flows through the mountains, and sunk almost as soon as we 
reached the shore. The other boats in company, after help- 
ing me to unload, passed on. It was necessary to stay and 
watch the property until the boat could be repaired. I spent 
a number of days and nights alone in the mountains, far 
from all human habitation. I had many silent musings on 
the dealings of Providence, and studied in my Latin Testa- 
ment, which I had with me. My resort was to God, and in 
this I found a peace the world could not give. I was enabled 


3 2 


MEMOIR OF 


to put my trust in Him, and the event has shown that while 
“His paths are in the sea and his footsteps in the great 
waters," still He guides by his counsel those who put 
their trust in Him. 

And as God has so ordered it that I am now at a public 
school, and enjoy a good opportunity for improvement, 
may it please Him to defend me from evil, keep me from 
temptation, and help me to live to his glory and improve 
my time and advantages ! 

I entered college April, 1807. Rev. George A. Baxter 
was president. 

November. One session is over, and various are the 
scenes through which I have passed. I have formed some 
agreeable acquaintances with young men of piety, who 
have the ministry in view, — J. Graham, A. Davidson, J. 
Logan, J. Ewin, S. McNut. We had a very troublesome 
session. The students were unruly; quarreled with the 
steward and were not harmonious among themselves. 
Some were sent away. I carefully avoided these diffi- 
culties, lived much retired, and seldom left college, except 
to attend church. I finished the Latin and began the 
Greek, chiefly under the teaching of Rev. Daniel Blane, a 
good teacher of the Languages. 

May , 1808. Have closed another session; finished the 
Greek and began Mathematics. Must own a kind Provi- 
dence in providing for my continuance at this institution. 
A vacancy taking place in the Qrammar School, I received 
an appointment as teacher, thanked God and took courage. 

April 17, 1810. I have this day stood my last examina- 
tion on the course of Language and Science taught in this 
institution and obtained the degree of A.B. 

On a review of the three years I have spent here, I find 
much cause of gratitude to God and much cause of self- 
condemnation in myself. How little progress have I made 


y. D. PAXTON , ; D.D. 


33 


in religion ! How little have I felt its power ! How un- 
profitable have I been to my fellow-men ! How little have 
I done for their spiritual benefit ! I have felt too strong a 
disposition to conform to the manners and customs and 
idle ways of spending time, so common in the world. I 
have too much forgotten the precept, “Redeeming the 
time,” and having “our conversation seasoned with salt.” 
While I am disposed to think that my notions about pro- 
fessors associating with the world were in 1807 rather too 
strict, yet I am convinced that many professors are much 
too lax, and receive much injury to themselves, while they 
do much injury to others from their want of rule in this 
matter. While much time is spent in company, little of it 
is employed so as to promote religion either in themselves 
or others. I have failed much in this matter, while at this 
place. I have, in some degree, cultivated piety, but it 
was done almost alone. I was nearly a stranger to the 
pleasures of social religion. God favored me with health, 
gave me many comforts, caused me to receive kind atten- 
tions from a number of families in the vicinity, blest me 
in my studies, and gave me intimations of his care, by 
providences which ought to be kept in very grateful recol- 
lection. 

After the first session, I spent one-half of the day, some- 
times more, in the Grammar School, receiving as a com- 
pensation little more than paid my board and bought my 
books. The care of the students, which fell mainly on the 
teachers of the Grammar School, formed an unpleasant part 
of the duties. For a part of the time, there were a good 
many students from the South, and especially from Old 
Virginia, many of whom possessed habits not favorable for 
close study, regular conduct, or good morals. With the ex- 
ception of the first term, I boarded in Dr. Baxter’s family, 
and was thus not much exposed to the annoyances and 


34 


MEMOIR OF 


temptations of the town. My attention to literary pursuits 
had rather too much of my thoughts. 

It was a time of great coldness in the churches. There 
was no stated prayer meeting in the college, nor in the 
church in town, nor, as far as I know, in any of the churches 
in that region. There was prayer at the opening of college 
each day, conducted by Dr. Baxter or Rev. Blane. 

Dr. Baxter taught Natural Philosophy, Astronomy, Meta- 
physics, Moral Science, Natural and Political Law, and 
the Law of Nations, and possibly some other studies, as 
Geography, etc., and usually had some students in The- 
ology. He preached at Lexington and Monmouth alter- 
nately on the Sabbath. 

Rev. D. Blane taught Latin and Greek and the several 
branches of the Mathematics, and preached at Timber 
Ridge and Oxford alternate Sabbaths. 

Each was able in his department as teacher, used text- 
books, but in recitation often gave needful explanations. 
Neither was what maybe called a great reader or much de- 
voted to general science, but they were good instructors, and 
moved on in great harmony with each other. Dr. Baxter 
was more distinguished for accurate thinking on any sub- 
ject that engaged his attention, than for knowledge of what 
books said on the subject. Both were good preachers, but 
in this Dr. Baxter excelled. His sermons were clear, com- 
pact, and to the point, but more addressed to the under- 
standing than to the heart and conscience. He seldom 
preached above forty or forty-five minutes ; short in preach- 
ing, short in prayer. Blane excelled in praying. 

Rev. S. Houston preached at Falling Spring and High 
Bridge, R. Logan at Fincastle and other points, Calhoun 
at Staunton, Wilson at the Stone Meeting House, McCue 
at Tinkling Spring, Brown at Providence, Montgomery in 
The Pastures. McElhany, who settled at Louisville, Green- 


y. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


35 

brier, and J. C. Wilson, who went to Norfolk, were licensed 
at this time. 

On sacramental occasions tokens were used. It was cus- 
tomary to hold a public service on Friday, Saturday, Sun- 
day, and Monday. Friday was kept as a day of fasting. 
Several of the neighboring ministers attended and assisted 
in the exercises. 

There were several of the seceding churches in Rock- 
bridge and adjacent parts, and in a few cases a Methodist 
or a Baptist preacher might pass and preach, but no regu- 
lar churches of these societies were known in that region. 
There was, as I think, an undue prejudice against them 
among those who owned the duty of public worship. 

A case I may state, simply for illustration, that during 
my residence at W. College a Methodist preacher came and 
proposed to be a student, to learn, as he said, a specified 
branch of mathematics, but a branch which Dr. Baxter 
told him he could not learn without first making himself 
master of some preceding branches. This he did not care 
to do. The case was much like that of an old colored 
woman, of whom I since knew, who came to a Sabbath- 
school to learn how to read, but did not wish to learn the 
alphabet. She said “ she was too old for that, she wanted 
to be put to reading at once without the trouble of learn- 
ing the letters.” The brother very soon requested to be 
allowed to preach in the Presbyterian church on the alter- 
nate Sabbath that Dr. Baxter was at Monmouth. This Dr. 
Baxter very decidedly refused, and gave it as his opinion 
that that was the main object of his coming, while the 
learning of mathematics was but a cover. 

I had doubts then, which have increased since, whether 
the doctor did right. There were, all over the country, 
people who seldom attended Presbyterian preaching. They 
did not like the pew and subscription system, but would 


3 6 


MEMOIR OF 


have attended the Methodist and Baptist meetings, as they 
since have done. Both of these denominations have 
churches now in that region. 

After graduating I went to East Tennessee to visit my 
two married sisters, Mrs. Holt and Rice, and to bring 
home my youngest sister, who had spent the winter with 
them. The ride was refreshing after the tedium of college 
life. Here I gained a little insight into the Hopkinsian 
doctrines, which Rev. H. Balch had introduced into that 
region, and which had produced much trouble in the 
churches ; many of them were divided, and the parties so 
bitter that they could not harmonize, and in many cases 
would not worship with each other. 

Journal. — April , 1810. The gospel ministry has long 
been to me the object of much and prayerful thought, and, 
I may say, of most earnest desire. With a view to it alone, 
I forsook the course of life in which I had engaged, gave 
up all its prospects, entered on a long course of study, per- 
severed through all the difficulties in my way, and during 
the whole course of my education made it a matter of 
almost daily prayer that God would make the path of duty 
plain ; would not let me run uncalled, but if it was his will 
that I should serve Him in the gospel, would enable me to 
see and feel it was his will and my duty. I did hope before 
now my mind would be satisfied on this matter. But stil 
I have doubts and fears about it. Some of my relatives 
and friends think the matter plain, and number me with 
the sons of the prophets, but they have not the anxieties 
that I feel on the subject. 

Should I intrude uncalled into the sacred office, how 
awful the case ! I know I am a poor, sinful, erring crea- 
ture, of myself can do nothing, and in the ministry I could 
do nothing but injure the cause and contract blood-guilti- 
ness, unless his powerful grace prevent. But this needed 


y. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


37 


grace I could not expect in a situation to which I was not 
called. Could I see my way clear, could I feel it my duty, 
then my mind would have something to rest on, and have 
more confidence in applying for aid in time of need. Oh, 
my Lord and my God, wilt Thou not guide and direct ! 
Keep me from erring. Show me the path of duty and in- 
cline me to pursue it. 

May 1 8, 1810. Hampden Sidney College, Prince 
Edward, Va. — I have this day arrived at this place, hav- 
ing been invited by Dr. Moses Hoge to assist him in teach- 
ing. My chief inducement in coming is the theological 
school, and the assistance in theology expected from Dr. 
Hoge. Although my mind is not fully made up as to duty 
in regard to entering the ministry, I intend to direct my 
attention chiefly to studies connected with theology, as 
matters of all others most interesting, and hope and pray 
that in due time duty will be plain before me. 

June n, 1810. Have begun the Hebrew and French 
languages, with a view to acquire such a knowledge of them 
as may enable me to read quotations and examine criti- 
cisms, etc. Made some agreeable acquaintances with young 
men, and of a number of very pleasant families in the 
vicinity. 

October io, 1810. Mount Pleasant. — The first part of 
*last session at H. S. C. was extremely turbulent. Many 
of the students were disposed to interrupt the peace of col- 
lege. A number were dismissed. The latter part of the 
session was more peaceful, and allowed my mind to be in 
a more suitable frame for coming to a conclusion as to my 
duty to become a minister. After examining with much 
care the state of my heart, my views and feelings in regard 
to the ministry; after reflecting on the way the Lord has 
led me, how He has opened my way, how I have been led 
to give up and reject all openings to worldly gain and 

4 


38 


MEMOIR OF 


emolument, from a desire to serve Him in the gospel ; and 
after considering how my mind, under every trial and dis- 
couragement, turned to God and committed my case to 
Him, and how He always provided some way by which I 
could continue my course of preparation, I was led to feel 
satisfied that it was the will of the Great Head of the 
Church that I should enter the ministry. 

I have, therefore, offered myself as a candidate to the 
Lexington Presbytery, stating that I had felt many diffi- 
culties on the subject. The Presbytery received me as a 
probationer and assigned me parts of trial. May the grace 
and mercy of God guard me from all evil, give me much 
of the spirit of Christ and prepare me for serving Him 
acceptably ! 

July 7, 1811. H. S. College. — Last winter’s session 
was, in some respects, peculiarly trying. Experience has 
taught me something of human nature, of my own heart 
and of the providence of God, which I desire to record 
and recollect. It is through tribulation we must enter the 
kingdom. The trials sent often appear to us harder to 
bear than any others would be. Perhaps this is because 
they are the very trials we need and bear upon the point 
that needs to be tried. 

A cabal of disorderly students was formed in college, 
under the direction of one or two, as there was good reason 
to believe, who set themselves to thwart the measures of the 
teachers, and keep up a constant disturbance in college. 
I was satisfied that the order and best interest of the col- 
lege required that one or more should be dismissed. As 
most of the interior government devolved on me, I re- 
peatedly urged the necessity of more energetic measures ; 
and, under the impulse of feelings often disturbed by severe 
trials in keeping order, I sometimes urged the change, and 
spoke of the insufficiency of the plan followed, in terms. 


y. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


39 


perhaps, not wholly becoming my place and the respect 
due the head of college, to whom my representations were 
mostly made. At times I had too little of the Christian 
spirit, was too positive, and hardly made the allowance 
needful for thoughtless, ungodly youth. It may be more 
easy to govern a nation than our own hearts and tongues. 

I had another source of severe trial. The habits and 
manners of an assistant teacher were not agreeable to me. 
I soon felt disgust at some of his foibles. Our situation 
in college obliged us to be much together. What at first 
excited my disgust continued to increase it. In this state 
of mind slight improprieties were hard to bear. Never 
did I find it so hard to keep a proper command over my 
temper, and maintain the proper Christian feelings toward 
any one, and to avoid putting an unfavorable construction 
on all he said and did ; and never did I find it more diffi- 
cult not to feel gratification, instead of the proper Christian 
commiseration with him, when his imprudence brought 
him into difficulties most mortifying ; and which from their 
peculiar nature, and his peculiarities, seemed designed as 
correctives. I might have been left to fall into a similar 
impropriety, or some other equally bad or even more dis- 
graceful. The same root of bitterness was in me, and to 
the grace of God I owe it that I have been preserved. 
Hearty pity and commiseration for him, and humble grati- 
tude to God for his grace in me, is what the case called 
for. I have much cause for deep humility. How awfully 
corrupt is human nature ! 

During the last vacation I visited my parents, as has 
been customary with me, and found my mind more than 
usually engaged in religion. A visit home begins to have 
a peculiar effect on my feelings. It fills me with a multi- 
tude of remembrances, which are not at other times and 
places enjoyed. While I ramble over the farm, stray in 


4o 


MEMOIR OF 


the woods, or climb the mountains, I see many places 
where I sought God in times of darkness, where I retired 
to read and meditate and pray. 

When I compare my present with my former state, what * 
a chasm lies between ! What an unlikeness between my 
present and my former self ! I recall many trials, many 
mercies, many hours of enjoyment, many kind providences, 
and above all I see that God has brought me to desire his 
favor more than all other things, to appreciate his gospel, 
and has caused my trials to have some good effect in lead- 
ing me from self and the world to Christ as the only hope 
of the soul. And I stand now with clearer views of divine 
things, and more satisfactory evidence of an interest in 
Christ, and a more cheerful hope that when my work on 
earth is done I shall be received into everlasting life than 
I ever before enjoyed. 

Nov, io, 1811. H. S. College. — Last session passed 
over more pleasantly to me than any preceding one at this 
place. The longer I live, and the more I attend to what 
takes place in me and about me, the more I feel that I need 
continual supplies of grace to guide, guard, keep, and en- 
able me, at all times and in all circumstances, to “possess 
my soul in patience,” In few situations are trials more 
abundant and various than in managing a large number of 
irreligious and mischievous boys. How much I regret some 
unguarded expressions and outbursts of fretfulness, which I 
fell into, excited chiefly by college matters. I need more 
humility, and the influence- of the Spirit to regulate my 
heart. I am greatly prone to forget that God has ordered 
my lot and appointed the trials I meet, and that it is my 
duty to glorify Him by bearing in the spirit of the gospel 
all that He sends upon me. 

“I attended Presbytery and Synod last month in Staun- 
ton, and passed through a part of my trial exercises before 


y. D. PAXTON , , D.D. 


41 


Presbytery. Many considerations induce me to think of 
taking licensure next spring, if the Presbytery concur. I 
did think of deferring it a year longer, but the state of the 
church, the great need of some one to pass through the 
vacancies as a missionary, have induced me to follow the 
advice which some in the ministry give — to take license in 
the spring, travel during summer, and locate and read next 
winter. As this seems most advisable, I desire to be more 
than ever engaged in seeking that assistance without which 
I cannot expect to be useful to the cause of Christ. I see 
more and more that a minister of the gospel ought to be 
wholly devoted to his work. This ought to embrace and 
control every purpose of his heart and constitute all his 
desire. Oh, how much grace is necessary to produce and 
keep alive such a temper in my soul ! May God, in the 
fullness of his blessing in the gospel, be with me, and aid 
in all my efforts to prepare for his work ! 

November 26, 1811. H. S. C. — Have written a letter to 
, expressing my earnest hope that the serious atten- 
tion they have lately paid to religion may not be forgotten, 
but terminate in a full devotion of heart to Christ and his 
cause. 

How much I regret that I did not feel a warmer and 
more social piety during my residence at Washington Col- 
lege ; that I did not converse more with my many acquaint- 
ances and friends on the great subject of religion. I might 
have done good in many cases which now I may never be 
able to reach. How much more pleasing would be my re- 
collections of that place if I could recall more done for 
Jesus. 

November 27, 1811. H. S. C. — Have received more in- 
formation which makes me fear that my old schoolmate, 

, is in danger of coining short of that usefulness once 

hoped of him. Oh, that I could bring my heart to take due 


42 


MEMOIR OF 


warning ! How alluring is this world ! How deceitful is 
the human heart! How deeply should I feel the duty of 
being as much as possible denied to this world, and of 
having all plans and purposes center in the great work of 
serving Christ in the gospel. 

This morning read the life of President Edwards, I hope 
with some profit. I find few kinds of reading more inter- 
esting than the well-written biographies of pious persons. 
How very poor my proficiency in the divine life compared 
with others. How far short of that diligence and watch- 
fulness which others exhibit. 

I sometimes feel a strong sense of the unspeakable privi- 
lege of forsaking all for Christ and his cause ; more especi- 
ally for a minister of the gospel thus to devote his all to 
his Master’s work. 

November 28, 1811. Last evening I led the devotions at 
a prayer meeting held by some pious students, and designed 
to cultivate piety in our own hearts, and to seek a blessing 
for others. I was cold and dull — did not enjoy that com- 
fort in the exercises I desired. Without the assistance of 
the Spirit of God, how utterly hopeless are all our efforts 
either to do or get good ! 

December 5. For several days past my mind has been too 
much employed about some worldly matters, and I feel the 
deadening effects of it on my religious feelings. Oh, Lord, 
pardon, revive, and restore me, and let me not wander 
from thee J 

December 7, Impressed with the necessity of a minister’s 
having much of the spirit of Christ, and of his absolute de- 
pendence on God for it, I spent part of this day in fasting 
and prayer. Had a deep conviction that our highest happi- 
ness arises from communion and fellowship with God, and 
entire devotion to his service ; that if I could give my whole 
heart to Him, and live under a constant sense of his pres- 


J. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


43 


ence and favor, I should be unspeakably more happy than 
all this world could make me. But how cold and dull and 
earthly is my heart ; how hard to make it rise to God and 
spiritual things. 

December 12. Last night was at the prayer meeting held 
at Dr. Hoge’s, Toward the close the doctor made an ad- 
dress, chiefly to the young men who had the ministry in 
view. He observed that young men, while preparing for 
the ministry, are apt to think their chief business is to ac- 
quire knowledge, and imagine they can acquire the spirit 
of the gospel afterward. They, on the other hand, ought 
from the first to cultivate a spirit of piety, form, as much 
as possible, a talent for religious conversation, to labor to 
be good and do good. That one preacher formed in this 
way might do more good than ten formed in the usual 
way. I felt the remarks most deeply. I have lived almost 
in vain, — done almost nothing. I find I shall have many 
hard struggles with my natural backwardness to religious 
conversation. Unless God be pleased to aid me, I know I 
shall never be able to do good in that way to the extent to 
which it may be done. 

December 22. Sabbath. Oppressed at heart with my 
deadness in religious duties, I retired for prayer. While 
thus engaged I had a very deep sense of my continued 
need of divine grace to keep alive any and every good 
thing in me; also a pleasing and humbling view of the 
sovereignty of God. That He does all his will. That all 
his purposes must stand, and I rejoiced in these truths. 

December 26. H. S. C. — This evening I heard of the 
death of Sister Rice.* How unexpected ! She departed 
this life on the 27th of November, 1811, and died in the 
full assurance of a happy immortality through the merits 


* Wife of David, brother of J. H. Rice, D.D. 


44 


MEMOIR OF 


of Christ. She had been a professor of religion above nine 
years, and was one of the company who attended the sacra- 
mental meeting at Pisgah at the commencement of the re- 
vival in 1802, and on their return to Rockbridge laid the 
beginning of the revival there. She was fully impressed, 
and from that time made religion the governing principle of 
her life. Her convictions were not remarkably deep, and 
she soon obtained comfortable views of the way of salva- 
tion. From what I have learned, both from herself and 
others, for I have not lived with her much since that time, 
her faith in God was unusually strong and her confidence 
steady. Her attachment to religion was of the steady, 
ardent kind. I have known few persons the tone of whose 
religious feelings was more uniformly high, and whose views 
were so uniformly clear on religion. 

She possessed a mind well-proportioned, most happily 
balanced, and possessing, beyond most that I have known, 
a perfect command over itself. I do not recollect ever 
seeing her in a fret, and it was not for the want of feeling. 

For several months before her death she had a presenti- 
ment of its approach. In her sickness she was much sup- 
ported ; Expressed a desire to live for the sake of her chil- 
dren, of whom she was very fond. She has left four, the 
youngest but a few days old. She declared her resignation 
to the divine will, and as her end approached conversed 
most affectionately with her husband, sister, and brother- 
in-law, committed them all, especially her husband and 
children, to God in prayer, then fell asleep in Christ. 
“Mark the perfect man and behold the upright, for the 
end of that man is peace.” 

My mind was singularly affected on first reading the 
afflicting intelligence. For an interval all feeling left me. 

I felt like a blank, yet the blank appeared almost insup- 
portable. I hasted to retirement for meditation and 


y. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


45 


prayer, and found relief in tears and keen sorrow, for our 
great loss. With my sorrow, I felt a deep sense of the 
goodness of God for the grace afforded her and the good 
evidence she left that she was received to a place of rest 
and peace. Oh, my dear parents, my heart bleeds for you ! 
May God support you ! I feel a mournful pleasure in medi- 
tating on where she now is, and how she is now employed. 
How she looks upon this world with its allurements, and 
upon the sacrifices and trials to which God’s people are 
called. Oh, that I could view these matters in some degree 
as she now does, and act as she would advise me to act 
were she allowed to revisit this world and give counsel to a 
brother who always loved her and shared her love ! 

December 29, 1811. ft. S. C. — Last evening we heard of 
the burning of the Richmond Theater, with a multitude of 
people in it. The dreadful shock it gave the whole com- 
munity, the stupefying horror it excited, brought most for- 
cibly to my mind the alarm and confusion, unspeakably 
more dreadful, which will be occasioned by the burnings 
of the last day. They went to the place of mirth, and in 
a few minutes were before the bar of God. May I be so 
wise as to be always ready for the coming of the Lord. 

January 8, 1812. H. S. C. — I often experience returns 
of distressing coldness in religion. None but God knows 
how far I fall short of those pure and ardent affections that 
ought ever to rule and control my heart. How awfully 
prone to earthly affections. Nothing but the same creating 
power, which gave me life and upholds it, can create and 
keep alive the love of God and divine things within me. 
During our social meeting this evening I had a strong and 
pleasing impression of this truth, as set forth in the parable 
of the vine, John , xv., “I am the vine, ye are the 
branches.” 

January 25. I have just read “The Star in the East” 


4 6 


MEMOIR OF 


and the “ Asiatic Researches,” by Buchanan, with great 
pleasure. How great the field for Christian and missionary 
labor ! How loud the call for help ! How great our privi- 
leges and mercies in this land, and how little do we appre- 
ciate them ! How apt to forget that God has done more 
for us than almost any other people ! How much more 
honorable to labor for the good of souls than to enjoy that 
indolent ease, and worldly honor, and earthly good so 
much sought after in this world ! Oh, that the Lord would 
raise up and send forth many faithful laborers into his vine- 
yard ! May my soul be filled with his Spirit and prepared 
for the work to which I may be called ! 

One of the objects I had in view in going from Washing- 
ton to Hampden Sidney College was to avail myself of the 
instruction of Dr. Hoge. I expected to have the advantages 
of a theological class. In this I was disappointed. There 
had been connected with the theological class before I 
went there several who had entered the ministry, as Lump- 
kin, Kennon, and Ewin. J. Hoge and J. Turner were 
still there, and others entered afterward, as J. Kirkpat- 
rick, A. Kilpatrick, S. Hoge, W. Lacy, D. Baker, Walton, 
Stafford, Pharr, Stuart, and possibly some others less ad- 
vanced. The doctor gave us some general advice as to 
our course of reading, subjects, and books; at times, on 
some particular subjects, we got his views, more or less 
fully, in conversation. We had no regular class-meetings 
nor regular recitations. 

I found many excellent families in the vicinity, a good 
state of morals, much intelligence, considerable wealth, 
and a much larger colored population than I had been ac- 
customed to above the mountains. The effect of the col- 
lege in creating an intelligent population was very manifest. 
This was the case at Lexington, but hardly so manifest, at 
that time, as it was at Hampden Sidney. Both institutions 


J. D. PAXTON ; D.D. 


47 


had times of prosperity and adversity. Neither had a full 
complement of professors while I was connected with them. 

At H. S. College Dr. M. Hoge was president. He 
taught one or two classes, beside the instruction given to 
the students of theology. The other departments were not 
filled with regularly appointed professors, but with young 
men who were graduates, — usually two, assisted by one or 
more in the grammar school. The funds of the college did 
not admit of much compensation. This arrangement may 
not have been the best, but I doubt whether a regularly 
appointed faculty would have turned out much better 
scholars than were thus made. 

Dr. Hoge preached at the college, but often exchanged 
with Rev. Drury Lacy, and preached at Cumberland or 
some other point ; Mr. M. Lyle at Briery and Buffalo ; Mr. 
Clement Read and LeGrand in Charlotte, as did Dr. Rice 
before he moved to Richmond ; Dr. Conrad Speece in Pow- 
hatan; Mr. Blair in Richmond and Hanover; Mr. William 
Read at Lynchburg; Messrs. Mitchel and Turner at the 
Peaks and Pisgah; Mr. Robinson in Albemarle. There 
may have been some others whose names and places have 
passed from my memory. These are recalled as having 
some connection with the college or attending Presbytery, 
which frequently met at that place. 

Dr. Hoge was a plain man, most simple and affectionate 
in his manners, well read in theology, but not remarkable 
for general reading ; a good preacher as to matter, but his 
manner was not calculated to make much impression on 
those who regard the manner more than the matter. Mr. 
Lacy was a most venerable man in his general appearance, 
was gifted with an uncommonly fine voice, and knew well 
how to use it. This made his sermons more popular with 
the many than those of Dr. Hoge, while for matter Dr. 
Hoge’s generally were much superior. 


48 


MEMOIR OF 


The doctor encouraged the theological students to hold 
meetings, and form the habit of exhorting assemblies and 
praying with and for their fellow-men. He never entered 
fully into the spirit of our Book in making a complete lit- 
erary course so essential as it seems to require, special cases 
excepted. He was one who, with many others, would have 
followed more closely the directions in I. Tim. iii. i-io, 
Titus , i. 

At the close of two years I resigned my place in college 
and retired to my father’s, where I spent the winter of 1811 
-1812 in preparing for examination before Presbytery. 
Those five or six months at my father’s were among the 
most pleasant of my life. Free from the trouble of college 
life, far from the bustle of the world, in the calm quiet of 
my parents’ secluded residence, I had time to muse on the 
past and prepare for the future. 


y. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


49 


CHAPTER II. 


Licensure — Missionary Tours — Experience as a Preacher — Horse 
lamed, and the Consequences — Journeys and Labors — Controversies 
in Tennessee — Difficulties in the way of Settlement — Reasons for 
going to Norfolk, Va. — War — Labors — Ordination — Success — Im- 
portant Events — Mental Trials — General Assemblies of 1815 and 
1818 — Remarks. 

June, 1812. Mount Pleasant. — Now that I am re- 
lieved from the many annoyances that arose from my rela- 
tions to the college, I see that I suffered them to produce 
an amount of uneasiness and, at times, fretfulness which 
they need not and ought not have done. I became more 
sensible of this during the last sessions, and began to cor- 
rect the evil. I set myself more earnestly to form the 
habit of referring everything to God and realizing his 
hand in all that took place. I tried to make it a rule to 
betake myself to God, by prayer, for grace and help in 
every trial, when I found anything likely to ruffle my tem- 
per ; and I found the benefit of so doing. God does hear 
prayer, and affords grace and deliverance to those who 
seek it and put their trust in Him. Had I adopted this 
rule from the time I first professed the name of Christ, I 
might have escaped some painful feelings, and possibly 
have felt my trials less. 

A change of place and of employment, however much 
it may promise, will do little to secure peace and give tran- 
quillity. The real source of disquietude is found in the 
heart. Unless the heart be put right the bitter waters will 
flow from it. A heart not filled with the fruits of the 

5 


5o 


MEMOIR OF 


Spirit — love, joy, peace, long-suffering, and patience — will 
find materials for unhappiness, or make them. On the 
other hand, if the heart be put right and filled with the holy 
affections, all trials can be borne, not barely with patience, 
but with enjoyment. Experience has proved to me that 
trials may be found at as well as at . 

In a few weeks I expect to receive license. May the 
grace of God prepare me for it, and enable me during life 
faithfully to do its duties. I have cause of deep humility 
that I have so little of the spirit of the gospel ; yet I view 
it as a favorable indication, that my mind has been for 
some time under a growing sense of my entire dependence 
on the grace of God for everything that is good. 

“ There is not perhaps a more evident display of creating 
power, exerting itself in any part of God’s dominion, than 
that operating on the hearts of God’s, people, recovering 
them more and more to the image of Christ.” God offers 
his Spirit, the author of this work, to all, in and through his 
Son ; may I seek it with my whole heart, and under its 
transforming power be more and more fitted for serving 
God in the gospel ! 

June 1 6, 1812. Mount Pleasant. — On the 13th of 
the present month the Lexington Presbytery met at Tim- 
ber Ridge, and I was directed to preach my trial sermon 
before them, from Jude, 3d verse, as had been assigned 
me. My mind was much agitated at first, but after I had 
commenced the service, it became calm, clear, and ardent. 
With great ease and comfort I passed through the service, 
and, as I was informed, “gave good satisfaction” to my 
hearers, among whom were many relatives, old college 
friends and acquaintances. 

The Presbytery adjourned to Capt. Wm. Lyle’s, and at 
night entered on my examination, which they pronounced 
satisfactory, and gave me license. Dr. Baxter, my old 


J. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


51 


teacher, presiding and officiating on the occasion. I was 
then directed by Presbytery to obtain instructions from 
the Synodical Committee of Missions, which was to meet 
in a few days, as to my field of labor and future course. 

I have had many difficulties in preparing for the ministry. 
Some friends disapproved of the whole matter, and thought 
I had better pursue the business in which I had engaged. 
I think, however, that I have seen the good hand of God 
in all the way along which he has led me. I felt some de- 
sire that God, as he had opened my way thus far, would 
be with me while passing through my probationary trials, 
especially as they would be gone through among my friends 
and acquaintances. I feel that I was aided, and desire to 
be thankful. But, oh ! I feel that I have cause for deep 
humility. I feel pride rising in my heart that I have done 
so well, a disposition to forget God, and take the credit to 
myself. When I pray for divine assistance in duty and 
say, “for Thy name’s sake, for the good of souls,” I am 
struck dumb, filled with shame ; for I see the love of my 
own name and praise stealing into my heart and presenting 
itself as a reason why I should desire to do well. Words 
cannot express the vileness of my heart. How full of pride, 
selfishness, and every evil ! There is possibly no greater 
display of divine grace in this world than that manifested 
in a minister of the gospel who is enabled with great suc- 
cess and good acceptance to preach the gospel and yet be 
kept properly humble before God, and have the glory of 
God and the good of souls alone in view. Nothing but the 
power of God can effect this. I have much reason to fear 
that I shall before long be put to shame. I richly deserve 
it for feelings which I have discovered within me. “ Oh, 
Lord ! enter not into judgment with me, for in thy sight 
shall no one living be justified !” 

Oh, for a clean heart, a heart disposed to devote every 


52 


MEMOIR OF 


thought and feeling to Christ and his cause ! Oh, for the 
time when my soul shall no longer have these distressing 
struggles within ; but be all purity and love and peace ! 

In a few days I shall commence my missionary labors. 
With what a mixture of feelings have I long looked for- 
ward to this time ! With what desire, what fear, what hope, 
what deep solicitude ! Oh, God ! go with me, direct and 
bless me, and make me an instrument to do some good ! 

Without loss of time, I entered the field of labor de- 
signated by the Committee of Missions, and spent most of 
the summer itinerating and visiting vacant churches and 
destitute districts in the bounds of Lexington Presbytery. 
I traveled west of New River into Wythe County, and 
north through Monroe, Greenbrier ; all the settlements on 
the head-waters of James River, called Pastures; and on 
Jackson’s River ; and passed through the Big Levels, Little 
Levels, and Clover Lick. In September I made a tour 
down the valley northeast as far as Winchester, Martins- 
burg, and Harper’s Ferry, preaching in the vacancies and 
unoccupied districts of Winchester Presbytery, making a 
passing call on the brethren Shannon, Glass, Hill, J. 
Hoge, and Matthews; and south of the Ridge, on Wil- 
liamson, Mines, and Wilson, on my way to attend Synod 
at Goochland, in October. 

The whole region over which my labors were spread, 
especially the mountainous parts, had a sparse population, 
mostly in settlements along the water-courses, and often 
separated far from each other. Whole counties contained 
but few, if any, regularly formed churches. There was 
often difficulty and delay in getting appointments to preach 
made known. As a general thing, there was a great desire 
to hear preaching, and for the most part a willingness to 
take pains to have the notice circulated. Often persons 
would ride extensively to give notice and send messages to 


J. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


53 


others within their reach. It was marvelous, what num- 
bers would gather in from the hills and valleys to the house 
where the preaching was to be held. 

A few of the Baptist and Methodist brethren were making 
commendable efforts to preach the gospel, and thus save 
those who were like sheep who had no shepherd. They 
have no doubt led many to the Saviour, and been the 
means of benefiting that region. 

July, 1812. New Dublin. — I may here raise my Ebe- 
nezer and say, “Hitherto hath the Lord helped me.” I 
have found much aid in the discharge of my ministerial 
duties. I begin to learn something from experience in 
preaching ; one case I must note. 

After spending a day preparing for the pulpit, I felt a 
dreadful conflict in my mind, with a selfish desire to do 
myself credit, by preaching well. During private devotion 
in the evening I had the clearest view I recollect ever 
having had of the deceitfulness of the human heart, and 
an equally clear view of the incomprehensible mercy of 
God, which operates on such hearts, recovers them from 
their enmity, purifying them more and more; and not- 
withstanding untold perversities, preserves, guides, blesses, 
and employs them in his service, and prepares them for 
his presence. These views were followed with ardent, 
longing desires after holiness. To be made holy and 
filled with the Spirit appeared, above all things, to be de- 
sired. 

I had attempted to memorize a written sermon for the 
Sabbath ; I had never found my mind so hard to manage, 
unable to memorize, and on Saturday could not take any 
interest in that discourse, although I had approved of it be- 
fore. After a hard struggle, I was forced to abandon all 
thoughts of preaching it. It was then near night. I made 
choice of two other texts, and concluded to preach two 

5 * 


54 


MEMOIR OF 


short extempore discourses ; which seemed the only alterna- 
tive ; was discouraged. 

Sabbath morning felt better ; took short notes on the 
selected passages ; felt prayerful and a growing hope that 
God would be with me in his work. I was not disap- 
pointed. Never had I felt so much liberty. The hand of 
God seemed to be in it, and I hope souls were benefited 
by the services of that day. “ My soul, hope thou only in 
God, for my expectation is from him ! M 

My plan for the future was to select some place, after 
the meeting of Synod, where I could preach during the 
winter; not ride much, but “ give attendance to reading.” 
There were several places south of the mountain in Win- 
chester Presbytery I thought would suit me, and I had 
reason to believe my services would be acceptable. But 
the plans of Providence differed from mine, and mine came 
to naught. 

During the sessions of Synod my horse was lamed by a 
kick from another horse, with which it was stabled, so that 
I could not travel with it. I waited week after week, still 
hoping that another week or two would put matters right. 
But the lameness continued ; I could not use the animal. 
I was not in a condition to buy another, and still all 
thought it would soon be well. For six weeks I supplied 
the pulpit of a brother, who, on account of health, made a 
tour south. And I also made a few short tours, on a bor- 
rowed horse, into Fluvanna and Madison Counties, but 
my plans for spending the winter were entirely defeated. 

This matter was to me most trying. It seemed so 
strange that while so many places presented as promising 
a field of labor, and my heart was so set on laboring, that 
things should so fall out as to keep me almost idle, and 
wholly in uncertainty how long I should be thus kept. I 
was much struck by a remark made to me by Rev. J. Lyle, 


J. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


55 


in reference to my case. “This is preaching to you.” 
This led to a review of my conduct in the ministry, and 
an examination to ascertain what might be wrong, and 
what this providence might be intended to correct. 

I see plainly, and all along have seen, that there is 
much wrong in me. There are many things for which 
God might thus deal with me. I have thought too highly 
of myself, had too much desire to be popular, have not 
sufficiently cultivated a meek and an accommodating spirit, 
have been too selfish, wayward, and positive, too desirous 
of settling well as regards temporal matters, have not with 
due submission sought for direction as to where I ought to 
go as a preacher of the gospel, have gone too much on the 
plan of choosing for myself. My plan formed for spending 
the winter was adopted with less prayer than was due so 
important a matter. I calculated too much on the great 
good I should accomplish for the people, and improve- 
ment to myself. In short, I see that much was wrong, 
and have little doubt that this dispensation is designed for 
some good purpose ; yet I am distressingly perplexed to 
know what it is mainly designed to correct, and, espe- 
cially, whether it be contrary to God’s plan that I should 
spend the winter at . 

While in this state of mind, I happened to take up a 
volume of Newton’s works, and opened it at a letter, in 
which he points out certain errors into which preachers, 
particularly young ones, are liable to fall, if they have been 
a good deal supported and their ministrations well received. 
He points out their danger unless God is pleased to reclaim 
them by his grace, or some dispensation of his providence. 
A light all at once broke into my mind. I saw the error 
into which I had fallen, and, as I believe, the error which 
He had chiefly in view to correct, with a clearness that 
produced the fullest conviction in my mind. What a poor, 


MEMOIR OF 


56 

blind creature I am ! How easily does my heart deceive 
me ! and how wonderful are the ways of God ! While my 
heart was engaged, in some good degree, in religion, while 
I was laboring in the gospel, with some sincere desires to 
advance God’s glory and the good of souls, and while He 
was in some degree with me, and often, evidently, aided 
me in his work ; some wrong feelings, aims, and motives 
gradually insinuated themselves into my heart, and were 
operating most unfavorably on the little portion of right 
gospel spirit, which, I hope, I possessed. How low should 
I lie before God ! How thankful He has shown me my 
error ! How jealous of my heart in time to come ought I 
to be ! 

December , 1812. Mr. W. Paine having very kindly loaned 
me his horse for two months, I started on the 29th for a 
tour north. Passed through Orange County on to Cul- 
pepper Court House, where I intended to preach, but 
failed. 

31. Rode on toward Winchester, fed at Manifus, crossed 
the mountain at Christer’s Gap after night, and passed the 
remainder at Front Royal. 

January 1, 1813. Spent in riding to Winchester; 
preached on the Sabbath. I spent January and the follow- 
ing month in this vicinity; preached at Martinsburg, Fall- 
ing Waters, Tuscarora, Shepherdstown, and Back Creek. 
The weather was very cold and it rained much. In March 
I rode to Bath. Met with a dangerous event in attempt- 
ing to cross the Potomac into Maryland. Lodged all night 
at the mouth of the Big Cacapon, in Hampshire, after swim- 
ming my horse over it. Crossed both branches of the Po- 
tomac at their junction, and arrived at Cumberland on the 
5th. Returning to Virginia, I passed on to Winchester, 
through Fauquier and Stafford to Fredericksburg. Never 
traveled before when the roads were so bad. Preached 


J. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


57 

three times on a sacramental occasion at F. Rode on 
through Spottsylvania-to Mr. Paine’s. 

March 29. My horse having become fit for use, I left 
Mr. Paine’s, to whose kindness I owe very many favors, and 
rode on to my father’s. 

April 24. Mount Pleasant. — I was once much less 
sensible than I now am of my duty to be directed by God 
as to the place and manner of serving Him in the gospel. 
The events of last winter have taught me a lesson which I 
hope never to forget. How sanguine was I that a perma- 
nent settlement might Se made in to the great benefit 

of religion in those parts ! But God’s time had not come, 
or I was not the proper person for the place. 

So of the prospect at C., thought so flattering by some; 
although many things seemed favorable, one little thing 
prevented. After all my plans and the plans of friends, 
nothing is decided, and I am more than ever convinced 
that the only proper way is to wait on God. Wait his 
time. Don’t try to hurry Providence, and He will finally 
order all things well. I am not without a spirit of prayer 
and a hope that He will thus guide and direct me. A state 
of suspense is trying to patience, but that may be the trial 
which I most need. 

In the spring of 1813 I returned to the bounds of the 
Lexington Presbytery, and under their direction visited 
most of their vacant churches, and some of the more im- 
portant ones many times, going over much of the same 
ground that I passed over last year. I extended my visits 
still farther west, and made a tour into Tennessee as far as 
Knoxville ancLTellico Block House. As far as I could, I 
visited the vacant churches in my route, and spent my 
Sabbaths with them, or in vacant neighborhoods, and dur- 
ing the week visited the ministerial brethren in the region. 
This enlarged my experience of the trials and perplexities of 


58 


MEMOIR OF 


preaching the gospel of Christ, and gave me some knowl- 
edge of those many aspects of truth that are found not only 
among professing Christians generally, but among those 
connected with the Presbyterian Church. 

I found the churches in Tennessee greatly divided and 
excited on Hopkinsianism. A considerable number of 
preachers had imbibed those sentiments and were active in 
propagating them ; especially insisting that real religion 
consisted much, if not mainly, in disinterested benevolence , 
and in being willing to be damned for the glory of God, if 
He thus ordered it. The matter was often thus represented. 
I was assured that many could be found who professed to 
be thus willing. An esteemed brother in the ministry as- 
sured me that he had known that point brought out most 
distinctly in examinations of persons for church member- 
ship and of candidates for the ministry. 

These notions were most earnestly opposed by a portion 
of the ministry and of the church members. With all this 
party feeling, it appeared to me that there were many pious 
people in that section of country. 

I returned to Virginia in time to attend the Synod, which 
met in October, at Lexington. I was greatly perplexed as 
to where I ought to labor. For near eighteen months 
I had been trying to preach, had spread my labors over a 
considerable district in Virginia and Tennessee, had seen 
much destitute ground, and many vacant churches. A 
number of the churches had made some little movement 
toward inviting me to settle, and I felt an inclination to 
locate with several of them, but something always came in 
the way, — delay or hesitancy on the part of the people, or 
division of sentiment, seemed to intimate it was not the 
will of the Lord I should remain. I had hoped that before 
winter I might find a situation where I could devote more 
time to reading; but when the Synod adjourned, all still ap- 


y. D. PAXTON, P.D. 


59 


peared dark and doubtful. I had learned, however, from 
past experience, that it was God’s place to order and guide, 
and mine to follow what his providence pointed out; I was 
in the Lord’s vineyard, and ought simply to look to Him to 
direct my labors. 

Furthermore, the report of the brethren from the country 
east of the Blue Jlidge, or what was called Old Virginia, 
induced the Committee of Missions to think that region 
the most promising, and they advised me to go there, at 
least for the winter. 

It was with great reluctance I yielded to this counsel. 
The remembrance of the trials of the former winter, and 
the apparently unprofitable way it was spent, as to reading 
and ministerial labor, all rose to my view. But as my mind 
was in doubt, and the opinion of the committee and most 
of the brethren clear, I yielded, and entered the field 
pointed out. 

I spent the time up to the early part of January, 1814, 
in Albemarle, Stafford, and adjoining counties. Visited 
Dumfries, Alexandria, Georgetown, and Bladensburg. I 
w r as much pleased with the counties between Fredericksburg 
and the Ridge as a field of labor. The people were friendly 
and disposed to hear the gospel. While on the eastern 
part of the circuit, I visited Washington City. Congress 
was in session. For a few days I looked in on the assembled 
lawmakers and listened to their deliberations. Lodged 
with the Rev. John Breckenridge. 

On going below the Ridge, my attention had been called 
to Norfolk. The war was going on; there were many 
troops stationed there without a chaplain. Many of the 
men were from the upper counties, who ought to have some 
attention paid to their religious condition. The Presby- 
terian church was vacant. After consultation with those 
whose opinions I felt ought to have an influence, as S. B. 


6o 


MEMOIR OF 


Wilson and the brothers Ben. and John H. Rice, I con- 
cluded to go to Norfolk and make my stay depend on cir- 
cumstances. 

I reached that place about the middle of January, 1814; 
was kindly received by the people of the church, and en- 
tered on my duties with a prayerful spirit, and realizing 
deeply my need of divine help. The church was small, 
and the house of worship located out of the thickly settled 
part of town, where the walking was not good. Still the 
attendance was pretty good. A considerable portion of 
the families, however, were foreigners, or the descendants 
of such. The Episcopalians, Methodists, and Baptists all 
had churches, but during the war were often without 
preaching. 

There was much sickness part of the time, and a great 
many were buried in Potter’s Field. I held three meetings 
in the week — two on Sabbath and one during the week. 
In addition, attended many funerals, and preached, as was 
the custom ; often visited and preached at the hospitals, of 
which there were several ; and sometimes visited and 
preached to the soldiers in their camps. A part of the 
time I held a meeting, one evening in the week, in Ports- 
mouth, over the river. On the whole, my labors were con- 
siderable.* 

The first part of my residence was a time of war. The 


* He was sometimes called upon for unusual service. An officer 
sent him a note informing him that a soldier was to be executed, and 
requesting his attendance. Arriving at the spot, he had some conver- 
sation with the poor fellow, for whom he felt deeply. Preparations 
all made in military style ; everything ready for the fatal shot ; he was 
just about to commence his prayer, when the officer, out of kindness 
to him, whispered in his ear that the man was to be pardoned. This, 
he said in after-life, was the most awkward predicament he ever found 
himself in. 


J. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


61 

ships of the enemy lay in the bay ; the town and neighbor- 
hood full of troops ; much sickness and many deaths. 
This, however, appeared to have little influence in making 
men attend to the great concerns of the soul. Many 
alarms took place, but no serious attack was made on Nor- 
folk after I reached the place. There had been one, not 
long before, on Crany Island, and on Hampton, across the 
bay, when some gross outrages were committed on families 
by the British troops. 

The country on the sea-board, most of the way up to the 
Blue Ridge, had been under the Established Episcopal 
Church, divided into parishes, and many of these had good 
church-buildings. But many of their preachers took sides 
with the mother country ; many left the country, and the 
preaching of that class, to a great extent, ceased. Their 
church-buildings were neglected, and now the ruins of those 
houses are to be seen in many places. 

On the breaking up of this religious establishment, the 
great want was men to preach the gospel. It was a great 
error of the Presbyterians of that time to take the ground 
that none but liberally educated men should enter the min- 
istry. By taking another course they might have supplied 
the want with able men , who would have occupied the vacant 
ground, increased the number of churches, and greatly ad- 
vanced the interests of religion. 

April 22, 1814. Our sacramental occasion is over, and 
my brethren, Messrs. Rice, etc., have returned home. The 
Lord has heard prayer and bestowed a blessing. The atten- 
tion has been pleasing ; many are affected. For two weeks 
we have had meetings every day. How great my work to 
direct these minds, guard from error and delusion, and 
rightly to divide the word of truth ! 

May 7. Petersburg, Va. — This day I was ordained by 
the Presbytery of Hanover, by the laying on of hands and 

6 


62 


MEMOIR OF 


prayer. I preached my trial sermon on the 6th, from 
jfohn, iii. 3, which had been assigned me the preceding 
evening. Rev. John H. Rice preached the ordination ser- 
mon, from I Tim. iii. 1, and Rev. Drury Lacy presided and 
gave the charge. My mind was deeply impressed with the 
greatness of the work, the awful responsibility of the office, 
and my need of divine aid to enable me to fill it to God’s 
glory and the good of the church. I desire to bless God 
for his aid since I came into the sacred office, and may He 
who in his providence brought about such a state of things 
as to induce the Presbytery to ordain me to the whole work 
of the ministry, afford grace to aid and direct that I may 
testify to his goodness, that He sends not on warfare at our 
own expense. May Jesus be made unto me wisdom, right- 
eousness, sanctification, and redemption ! 

After my ordination, Presbytery sent me back to Nor- 
folk, “ to remain and labor as long as the way may seem 
clear.” At the request of the church, renewed from time 
to time, I continued with them nearly six years, and hope 
that my labors were not without fruit to the glory of God. 

The body of people connected with the Presbyterian 
Church was considerably outnumbered by those connected 
with the Episcopal and Methodist Churches, and nearly 
equaled by those connected with the Baptist Church. 
There was, on the whole, a good degree of harmony and 
kind feeling among those churches. 

The war, while it continued, brought many people to 
Norfolk, through their connection with the army, navy, 
and government, keeping up a continual excitement. 
There was much sickness in the army, and it called forth a 
commendable degree of effort among the people to alle- 
viate the sufferings and wants of the sick. The hospitals 
were often visited and religious instruction imparted, as 
well as supplies for bodily wants. 


J. D. PAXTON, P.D. 


6 3 


May 22. I, for the first time, administered the ordinance 
of baptism ; subject — a child of Doctor Clark, a member 
of our church. 

23. I hope the Lord is carrying on a good work among 
us. My mind is full of solicitude that God would own his 
own gospel. He alone can give efficacy to divine truth. 
He alone can touch the heart. For some time past the 
thoughts of death have visited my mind frequently, with 
some impression that my time might not be long. The 
idea that my days may be drawing to a close, for the most 
part, appears rather agreeable ; long life does not seem so 
desirable as formerly. Perhaps there may be nothing like 
a presentiment in the state of my mental exercises on this 
subject. My mind is a curious piece of machinery, — I 
don’t understand it. This much, however, I find more 
impressed on my mind from my observation of its exer- 
cises, — that its spring of action can be directed by some 
invisible hand — that I am entirely dependent. May God 
grant me preparation for all his will ! Oh, may I. be active 
— be ready, and, come life or death, may He be glorified 
by it ! How has the goodness of God followed me all the 
days of my life ! How do I view it above all price, that 
He has sent me here, I hope, to do good to his church — 
to be an instrument of bringing some souls to Christ ! 

August 1 1 . Where the mind is suffered to dwell for a 
length of time on an injury, if great care be not taken, it 
will give it a sourness which will have a most unhappy 
effect on its own peace, on its religious comfort, on its self- 
command, and may lead to excess of passion of the most 
unhappy kind. Persons of the most amiable and correct 
minds may show a degree of spite, ill-nature, low, base 
ways of injuring the feelings of others, which they would 

scorn to do at other times. have given me the most 

awful sense of what the best heart is when left to itself that 


64 


MEMOIR OF 


I ever have had from the conduct of others. The most 
amiable have, for a time, manifested almost the temper of 
infernals to wound and hurt. 

December 31. Passed this as a day of fasting and prayer. 

I remember th§ deep sense of my entire dependence on 
God for everything that my mind felt the day I first com- 
muned as a believer. I rested on grace. It has preserved 
me thus far. I must be a beggar for grace, light, direction, 
all good, through all my days. Oh, that God may abound 
to me in grace for my own spiritual concerns, and for the 
great and awful work of the ministry, direct me in all 
changes, especially in those important changes which may 
so deeply affect my services in the gospel ! 

During the six years I spent in Norfolk some important 
events took place. Peace was made between the United 
States and Great Britain. While much treasure was spent, 
and many lives lost, and a vast amount of suffering endured, 
some of the points about which the war was waged were 
left undecided — as the right of search, and sailors’ rights. 
There was reason to believe that the results had made such 
impression on the English government that there would not 
be much danger of trouble on those points in the future. 
The return of peace gave great satisfaction to the mass of 
the people, and great activity began to show itself in most 
departments of life. 

About that period some important movements took place 
in the religious world. The A. B. C. F. Mission sjya£)organ- 
ized and the first missionaries were sent to the foreign field. 
The A. B. Society was formed, and began its great work of 
printing and circulating God’s word without note or com- 
ment. The Sabbath-school system and Bible classes began 
their blessed work; the Monthly Concert of Prayer was in- 
stituted ; and last, not least, the Colonization Society was 
formed, to aid the free colored people, and such as might 


J. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


65 


be freed, to emigrate, with their own consent, to the West- 
ern Coast of Africa, and form a free state, and carry with 
them the blessings of the gospel and the improvements of 
civilized life. 

We introduced the Sabbath-school and the Concert of 
Prayer ; and, through the aid of Rev. S. J. Mills, the agent 
of the Colonization Society, who visited Norfolk and spent 
several Sabbaths, had the minds of the people called to the 
subject of colonizing the free blacks. The idea was re- 
ceived with favor by many. The inconsistency and evil of 
slavery was generally seen and admitted. But the diffi- 
culty of the subject was thought great. It was hoped 
that, could a colony be formed on the Western Coast, and 
for a time protected and made to prosper, that it might 
lead to a regular system of emancipation and emigration 
to Africa. Many of the first minds in the country thus / 
viewed the matter, and gave it their support. 

In 1815 I attended the sessions of the General Assembly 
of the Presbyterian Church, in Philadelphia. I sailed from 
Norfolk to New York in a small, dirty packet; had a very 
uncomfortable passage ; was sick most of the time, and so 
weak when I reached New York that I could hardly walk up 
to a boarding-house. In a few days I was well enough to 
go about. Became acquainted with Dr. Romyne and the 
Bethune family; with the latter I was especially pleased. 
Called on Dr. Alexander, at Princeton ; he was at the head 
of the Theological Seminary established by the General 
Assembly at that place in 1812. Was several days in pass- 
ing from New York to Philadelphia, in a stage over miser- 
able roads. 

In 1818 I again attended the General Assembly at the 
same place. I went in a packet to Baltimore, in company 
with Dr. Hoge ; had some rough passengers on board, as 
well as some ladies. 


6 * 


66 


MEMOIR OF 


In both of these Assemblies the question of slavery was 
brought up in some form, but in the latter it was referred 
to a committee consisting of Dr. Green, Dr. Baxter, and 
Mr. Burgess, a member from Ohio. They reported the 
paper entered on the minutes of that year. Dr. Green 
drew up the paper, as he informed me. It passed with but 
little discussion, and, I think, with no votes in opposition, 
although the South had a fair proportion of members on 
the floor. The fair inference is that up to that time the 
public sentiment in the church was that slavery was mor- 
ally, as well as politically, wrong, and ought to be done 
away with. 

The grand error was that while the church declared to 
the world the great sin and guilt under which the church 
and country lay, no corresponding effort was made in the 
church, or through the church, to put an end to the evil 
and lead to repentance and reformation. There ought to 
have been a forsaking of the sin and putting it away, as 
well as confessing it. 

I was made to pass through some severe mental trials 
during this period. I learned much about myself and how 
little we may trust others. On looking back I see much for 
which I ought to be humble ; much that shows how little 
cause we have to put confidence in man. 

My labors in Norfolk were attended with such a measure 
of success as was encouraging, and I had formed a pretty 
strong attachment to the place. Through the kindness of 
a leading member of the church, my board and room, for 
most of the time, cost me but little, and this was a relief, as 
the salary was small. While the people were kind, I ascer- 
tained that a portion of the church or congregation, who 
had the wealth and influence, were not anxious that I should 
remain. They were desirous of having a preacher of more 
showy and popular talents than I possessed, to draw hearers 


y. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


67 


and make the church .popular. The proper and customary- 
steps to have a regular settlement were not taken. I thought 
much on the matter, prayed over it, and at length made up 
my mind to leave the church and let them obtain a preacher, 
if they could, who would meet their wishes. 

September 26. Preached a farewell sermon from II. Cor. 
xiii. 11. 


/ 



68 


MEMOIR OF 


CHAPTER III. 

More Labors in Virginia — Installation at Goochland, Va. — Marriage 
— Call to College Church — College and Seminary — Colonization — 
Emancipating Slaves — Consequences — Removal to New Jersey — 
Family Afflictions — Labors in Pennsylvania — Travel in New Eng- 
land — Residence in Kentucky — Installation at Danville — Departure 
for Europe. 

I ATTENDED Synod at Winchester, and from thence 
visited my parents in Rockbridge, preaching at several 
places on my route, and spending a few Sabbaths with con- 
gregations in the county. In the first of the winter I fell 
on the ice, and received an injury that detained me at my 
father’s three months. It was not until May, 1820, that I 
was well enough to travel without much pain. After spending 
a month or two traversing my old mission-field, the Pastures, 
I crossed the Blue Ridge, visited the Cove, Albemarle, and 
proceeded to Goochland County, where I found Rev. Logan 
about to visit the Springs and spend the summer above the 
mountains in search of health. 

His charge, the Bird, Licking Hole, and Providence 
churches, applied to me to serve them for a time. I as- 
sented, and spent part of the summer with them. Here I 
found an interesting field and an intelligent and pleasant 
people, although few in number. I rode and preached 
often in parts adjacent to my regular places of preaching. 

In the latter part of summer I engaged in mission-labors 
in the vicinity of Richmond, preaching in the outskirts of 
the town, the Poor House, and the Penitentiary. There 
were two Presbyterian churches in Richmond. One had 


y. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


69 


long existed, under the care of Rev. Blair, and had wor- 
shiped in the capitol, but means were now in operation 
to erect a house on Shockhoe Hill. The other had been 
recently gathered by Rev. J. H. Rice. This church put up 
a house half-way to Rocketts, but found the location so un- 
favorable, sold it and built another a little east of Mayo’s 
Bridge. This church seemed prosperous ; there was, how- 
ever, a good deal of jealousy between the two churches. 

Synod met the last of October in Lynchburg. I con- 
cluded to return above the mountains ; found the Falling 
Spring church in trouble. Part of the people had a desire 
to change their minister, Rev. S. Houston. He had left 
them ; one or two preachers had visited without uniting 
them. At their request, I supplied them several Sabbaths, 
but with no better success than the others. 

I again engaged in mission work in the bounds of Lex- 
ington Presbytery, the scene of my first labors. It was a 
wide region ; required much riding ; but the people at- 
tended the meetings well and appeared benefited by my 
ministrations. I continued in this work through the winter 
and spring. 

In July the Bethel church, whose pastor had, by agreement, 
left them for a time to look out for another location, invited 
me to supply them in his absence. Ldid so, and availed 
myself of the occasion to attend a course of lectures on the 
Hebrew language, delivered in Staunton by a learned Jew 
of the name of Hurwitz, — the same who edited an edition 
of the Hebrew Bible, without the points, in Philadelphia. 
I received some benefit from those lectures, but not as 
much as I was led to hope for. 

Rev. J. Logan having moved west of the Blue Ridge, I 
received an invitation from the churches in Goochland, 
which I had supplied in 1820, to become their pastor. I 
accepted their call, and at the close of summer settled 


7o 


MEMOIR OF 


among them. My former residence among them made me 
pretty well acquainted, and I received a most cordial wel- 
come. Beside my three regular preaching places, I often 
preached at South Anna, and made monthly visits to a dis- 
trict west of the Bird, where there were a few Presbyterians 
that desired to hear me. I had a wide field, surrounded on 
all sides with districts destitute of Presbyterian preaching, 
and not much of any kind. I attended the Hanover Presby- 
tery in Richmond the middle of October, and the Virginia 
Synod the first of November. Returned to Goochland, and 
was installed on the 17th of that month, by Dr. J. H. Rice, 
at Licking Hole, as the pastor of the Licking Hole and 
Providence churches. 

Appearing to be more permanently settled than I had 
been before, I formed a marriage alliance with Miss 
Elizabeth Carr, a lady who came on a visit to the neigh- 
borhood. She was w r ell known and highly esteemed by 
some of the most interesting families of my charge. On 
looking back over the whole matter, from my first acquaint- 
ance until the Lord was pleased to remove her by death, I 
have reason to believe God ordered it and made us a com- 
fort and blessing to each other. 

A great effort was made, about this time, to establish a 
theological school, jor a theological department at Hamp- 
den Sidney College. I took a somewhat active part in the 
matter. As the Synod was backward, the Hanover Presby- 
tery took the matter in hand, and appointed Dr. J. H. Rice 
as their first professor. The death of Dr. Hoge had, for a 
time, left the college without a president, and the church 
without a preacher. The trustees had elected Mr. Cushing, 
a layman, president, and the plan of the Presbytery was 
that the professor of theology should serve the congrega- 
tion in preaching. 

The congregation, however, did not concur in the plan 


y. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


71 


of Presbytery, and, after a good deal of disputation and 
trouble, united in giving me a call to be their pastor. The 
case was a perplexing one. In several respects my situa- 
tion in Goochland was pleasant ; the people were kind and 
attached to me. But I had much riding to do, much time 
was passed away from home, I had almost no literary ad- 
vantages, and my salary was insufficient. At college my 
labors would be at one place, among an intelligent people, 
and with all the advantages of the libraries of the college 
and theological school, and the society of the professors. 

I had at this time an ardent thirst for literary and gen- 
eral information. This penchant for literature and all that 
sort of thing, I now think, had an undue influence in lead- 
ing me to accept the call and agree to be transferred to 
Prince Edward. 

The belief, also, that the building up of the theological 
seminary at college, under Dr. Rice, which it was hoped 
would be a great blessing to the church, was not without 
its influence. I hoped I might be able to heal some divi- 
sions, unite some dissentients, and in a number of ways do 
as much good, possibly more, than would compensate any 
evil that might follow my leaving Goochland. The 
whole outworking of the results has left the impression 
pretty strongly on my mind that I made a wrong decision 
— that more prayer and less self-will would have kept me, 
for a time at least, at the latter place. 

In the spring of 1823 H. Presbytery transferred me from 
Goochland to Prince Edward, and sent me as commissioner 
to the General Assembly. On my return I moved to 
Prince Edward, and entered on my pastoral duties. 

In the autumn of the same year Dr. Rice moved to 
Prince Edward and opened the theological school. A 
new state of things was taking place. 

A large college-building had been erected under the 


72 


MEMOIR OF 


general supervision of President Cushing; a new brick 
church had been built, the old Hall removed, and prepara- 
tion being made to put up buildings for the theological 
seminary. Being on the ground, I was put on committees 
on various matters, and soon found that all things were not 
likely to run smooth. The plans of some were not agree- 
able to all. Nothing short of a great institution would 
satisfy those who expected to have the control, while the 
prospect of raising means was not promising. 

My settlement did not meet my hopes. The divisions 
continued ; my literary intercourse and profit did not equal 
my expectations ; some things fell out that were not pleas- 
ant ; and it was not long before I began to doubt whether 
I had not erred in coming to the place. 

The other Presbyteries of the Virginia Synod were slow 
to take hold and aid in this enterprise. A great movement 
was made to put the Virginia University in a condition, as 
to professors, endowments, and other facilities, so as to make 
it overshadow all the other institutions of the State ; while, 
for a time, it was reported, and by many believed, that Mr. 
Jefferson’s plan, in which his helpers were thought to con- 
cur, was to repudiate religion and make the institution infi- 
del. This opinion became gradually modified, until it 
was distinctly declared that, while no distinct provision 
was made for the support of' any one sect of religion, any 
and all sects that would avail themselves of the offer would 
have lots assigned them, and facilities afforded to give re- 
ligious instruction to those of their youth that might avail 
themselves of the ample instruction provided for all in the 
routine of language and science taught in the institution. 

In a conversation which I had with Mr. Jefferson him- 
self, on an occasional visit to Charlottesville, he took pains 
to state and explain this to me ; and expressed a wish that 
the Presbyterians, who up to that time had done more to 


y. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


73 


promote education than any other branch of the church 
in the South, would avail themselves of the opportunity. 
Soon after the university was opened, arrangements were 
made to provide a chaplain to preach to the students, 
sometimes chosen from one branch of the church, and 
sometimes from another, which arrangement has continued, 
I believe, down to the present. 

The Colonization Society, for which I had been an 
ardent advocate, was now beginning to send out emigrants, 
and a good deal of interest existed in the country to learn 
the plans and promote the objects of the Society. I looked 
with great confidence on the beneficial influence it would 
have on Africa, and on slavery in this country, and made 
an effort to form an auxiliary society near college. Oppo- 
sition, however, sprang up and defeated the effort. 

The congregation owned a number of slaves, who were 
hired out annually, and the proceeds applied to pay the 
salary of their pastor. I either did not know this when I 
accepted the call, or it had not engaged my attention ; 
now, on finding that my support was drawn almost entirely 
from those slaves, for whose instruction very little was done, 
I felt more and more uneasy, and desired much to do some- 
thing for them. A good many slaves attended church, and 
occasionally I preached specially to them. I wished much 
to induce the congregation to take measures to emancipate 
and send them to Liberia, where now a colony had been 
planted with some prospect of success. I found little sym- 
pathy in this, and a pretty decided opposition was made by 
many leading members of the church, most of whom were 
slaveholders. 

While I had, very cordially, voted for the paper passed 
by the General Assembly of 1818, I had not paid much at- 
tention to the general subject of slavery. My father owned 
a family of slaves, and I had grown up with them; and I 

7 


74 


MEMOIR OF 


had the common opinion that slavery was wrong, still I had 
not much moral feeling on the matterj On moving to 
Prince Edward and going tcTTidusekeeping, my wife’s 
father, who was a slaveholder, gave and sent to her a family 
of house-servants, seven or eight in number, most of them 
J small. This, with the discussions about colonization, tlw- 
C^e-pfithe slaves owned by the congregation-, and the deliv- 
erance of the General Assembly, turned my th( 'lights to the— 
subject. My wife’s views of the subject soon came to agree 
with mine. We felt that we ought to prepare these servants 
for freedom, and, as soon as the circumstances permitted, 
liberate and send them to Liberia. We took some pains to 
instruct them, and furnished them with as good an outfit as 
our means would allow. 

January is t, 1826, I took them to Norfolk, and obtained 
a passage for them, in a vessel sent out to Africa by the 
Colonization Society. 

This gave considerable offense to a part of the congrega- 
tion, and led to a good deal of talk, and I was of necessity 
led to give my reasons for what I had done. As the usual 
arguments from Scripture were often adduced, I wished to 
reply to them, but could not do it from the pulpit, as there 
were generally a number of slaves present. I concluded to 
write a few pieces on these topics and insert them in the 
Family Visitor , a religious paper taken by many families in 
the congregation. 

The first and second number excited but little notice. 
The third, which was closer to the point, and called atten- 
tion to the practical working of slavery, came out on the 
same week, I think, that a most foul murder had been com- 
mitted by a negro man on a white woman. This produced 
a great excitement in the neighborhood. It so happened 
that in this piece I had followed a course of argument and 
• remarks that I had but a few days before pursued when 


y. D. PAXTOJV . ; D.D. 


75 


drawn into discussion with some who justified slavery, and 
blamed me for my example in liberating slaves while pas- 
tor of a church who owned them, and whose members were, 
most of them, slaveholders. They seized on this piece, 
and said if such discussions were allowed, such murders 
might be expected. There was not the smallest reason to 
think that the piece had anything to do with the murder. 
There was no evidence that the negro could read, or that 
any copy of the paper was taken in that neighborhood. 
There was not time for it to have exerted an influence, for 
the murder was committed about the time, or possibly a day 
or two before, the paper came to the post-office. It was, 
however, eagerly laid hold of and used to injure me. One 
or more of those who were most active and bitter were noto- 
rious slave-traders, who went about buying slaves and taking 
them to the South for sale. 

While in Norfolk to procure a passage to Liberia for my 
slaves, I had obtained two poor white children, a boy who 
had neither father nor mother, being about twelve years of 
age, and a girl of about the same age, whose mother was 
poor and unable to provide for her. I engaged to raise 
them, have them taught, and do a good part by them. I 
found that this was not looked upon with favor by some. It 
was introducing white servants, which implied a disap- 
proval of slavery. This, while a small matter, showed the 
state of feeling on the whole subject. 

I had a meeting of the session, and a free conversation on 
the whole matter. They informed me that there was much 
excitement and dissatisfaction on the part of many in the 
congregation, which they did not see how they could allay. 

I reminded them that my views were much the same 
when they had called me to become their pastor ; showed 
them the minutes of the General Assembly of 1818, of 
which I was a member, and the resolutions for which I 


MEMOIR OF 


7 6 

voted ; that I now acted in accordance with those resolutions 
and declarations; but I did not wish to produce disquiet, 
and said I would resign the pastoral charge and seek another 
field of labor. This was agreed to. 

I had an appointment to preach “ the funeral ” of a col- 
ored member of the church, at the Court House, on the fol- 
lowing Sabbath. On attending, I found the house, which 
had always been open for such services, now closed, and 
several white men about, and among them a notorious slave- 
trader, whose appearance led to the idea that he intended 
to make an assault upon me. A pious student, Mr. M. , who 
afterward entered the ministry, came to me as a friend, but 
evidently apprehensive that there was a good deal of dan- 
ger, and remarked, “the devil seemed to have got loose.” 
I saw that the house would not be opened. The man who 
had the care of it was sitting on the fence, not far off. 
There were a good many slaves in the yard and about the 
lot. I took my stand in the porch, Mr. M. near me, an- 
nounced to the colored people to come near. They gath- 
ered around me, and I preached to them from the porch. 

I made no reference to the excitement, and at the close 
advised them to return home quietly. I mounted my horse 
to ride home, not without some apprehension that I might 
be attacked, as the slave-trader had left the lot when I began 
to preach. He had before at the church, as I was told, 
walked up hastily to a leading member, as I went into the 
pulpit, and asked him if they were going to allow me to go 
into or remain in the pulpit. The gentleman remarked 
I would do no harm there. 

As I rode from the Court House and came to the skirts 
of the village, an old negro man, who had a good report, 
came out to the road to speak to me. He showed in his 
countenance, as did all the negroes, that he knew something 
was wrong. In low but earnest tones he inquired what 


y. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


77 


was the cause of all this excitement. I did not think it best 
to enter into explanations, but passed him without stopping. 

The colored people received the opinion, as I was in- 
formed, that I had found out that all the slaves had a right 
to be free, and that the slaveowners were angry with me, 
and were for sending me away on that account. 

I made a sale, and disposed of most of my furniture at a 
considerable loss ; afterward sold my house and small tract 
of land at a still greater sacrifice, and left for the free States 
with my family, after a short visit to our relations. 

Passing through Fredericksburg, Washington, Baltimore? 
and Philadelphia, spending a few days at each place, I ar- 
rived at Elizabethtown, New Jersey, about the time the New 
Jersey Synod met. During that Synod the Springfield 
church invited me to visit them. I did so, and accepted 
their invitation to settle with them. Thus the Lord opened 
another field for me to labor in his church. 

I found the state of society and manners in Springfield 
somewhat different from that in the South, where I had 
lived ; but I found the people kind, and religiously disposed, 
and I was inclined to remain with them. Most of the towns 
and villages in the vicinity contained Presbyterian churches; 
these, with my nearness to Newark, Elizabethtown, and New 
York, gave me ample opportunity to extend my acquaint- 
ance and keep up social intercourse with my ministerial 
brethren. 

Not long after my location in Springfield I noticed in 
the Virginia Magazine , published in Richmond, by Dr. Rice 
(see vol. ix. 1826), a piece on the subject of slavery, which 
I considered as aimed at me ; and, in substance, charging 
me with a most unjustifiable fault-finding with slavery as a 
political institution. 

It took the ground, and for the first time in a public 
religious paper, as far as I had seen, so commonly taken 

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MEMOIR OF 


since, especially in the South, that the Scriptures do not 
condemn it ; that the law under the Jewish dispensation 
allowed, if not enjoined it ; that it was everywhere preva- 
lent, both among Jews and Gentiles, in the time of our Lord 
and his disciples ; that neither Christ nor his apostles con- 
demned it, but recognized it, as an existing institution, and 
enjoined on both masters and slaves their appropriate duties, 
thus recognizing its existence and morality. 

This piece provoked me not a little; I considered it un- 
fair and unkind. Dr. Rice knew, personally, the case as 
it regarded me. I considered the argument most unfair, 
and wholly irreconcilable with the spirit of the resolution 
of the Assembly of 1818, and directly calculate^ to gain 
favor with that class, then beginning to appear, who resolve 
to hold on to slavery, and oppose all tendency to eman- 
cipation, and even oppose colonization as it seemed to 
favor it. 

I determined to reply to the piece ; but doubting whether 
I could have it inserted in his magazine, wrote to ascer- 
tain ; making some remarks about the spirit and apparent 
design of the article, not charging the authorship on him, 
although I was confident he was the writer. After more 
than six weeks’ delay, he informed me that he had ceased to 
be the proprietor and publisher of the magazine, and could 
not answer for its admission. He deferred answering until 
he had disposed of the paper, and alleged that fact as a 
reason for not securing a place for my reply to his piece. 
I tried to have it inserted in the monthly published by Dr. 
Green. He approved of the article, as he assured me, but 
thought it ought to be printed in some Southern paper, and 
that the publication in which the piece appeared, to which 
mine was a reply, ought, in justice, to admit it. 

This, with other things, turned my mind to the subject of 
a more full examination of slavery than was in my little 


J. D. PAXTON ; D.D. 


79 


criticism on the doctor’s argument, and finally led to my 
writing and publishing a volume, Letters on Slavery, ad- 
dressed to the Cumberland Congregation. This volume 
was published at Lexington, Kentucky, 1833. 

A regular call had been tendered me from the church at 
Springfield, but delay in obtaining my dismission from the 
South prevented my installation in the spring. About the 
latter part of summer I was attacked with a severe fever. 
In a few days after, my dear wife was also seized with the 
same, which in her case proved fatal in a short time. My 
case was a lingering one ; I recovered slowly, and it was 
nearly two months before I could go over to New York City, 
to the house of a friend, where, under careful nursing, I grad- 
ually gained strength to move about and travel. Unable to 
perform ministerial duties, and sensible that time was ne- 
cessary to restore me to health, I gave up the churcl?, and 
returned to Virginia with my only child, whom I placed in 
care of sister Donal. 

I felt deeply the loss of my wife. She was a noble woman, 
kind, affectionate, truly, pious, and beloved by all who 
formed her acquaintance. 

Our first child died while an infant, and lies in the church- 
yard at Prince Edward. My wife was buried in v the grave- 
yard of the church at Springfield; and, in 1827, I had a 
marble tombstone, supported by a brick foundation, placed 
over her grave. 

January , 1828. I returned to the North. Thinking I 
might improve my health by moving about, and not be 
wholly useless, I visited Baltimore, Carlisle, Harrisburg, and 
Philadelphia, preaching at those places ; and performed a 
short mission at Phcenixville and neighboring places in 
Pennsylvania. 

The effects of my fever still clinging to me, rendered it 
advisable to continue my travels. I visited Springfield and 


8o 


MEMOIR OF 


New York again, and made a tour in June, through New 
England, as far as Boston and Andover, via New Haven 
and Providence. My stay was not long at these points, but 
sufficient to see the places, and form some acquaintances 
with the ministerial brethren. 

From Boston I passed west to Albany, in New York, and 
returned to the city by the Hudson River, improved in 
health, and my curiosity somewhat gratified, by my trip to 
New England, which long has had, and deservedly, an im- 
portant place in the history of our country. 

Returning to Virginia, I arrived at Timber Ridge about 
the last of July. My health was better, but not fully re- 
stored. I spent some time with my relations, visited a 
number of the springs, and preached at various places, as op- 
portunity presented ; and after the meeting of the Virginia 
Synod at Staunton, made up my mind to visit the West and 
possibly remain there permanently. 

Taking the Kanawha route, I spent a few days in Lewis- 
burg, Greenbrier; a week at Charleston, Kanawha, with 
Rev. Calhoun ; then passed on to Gallipolis, Ohio, where I 
remained some time assisting at a sacramental occasion. I 
then took a boat down the Ohio River to Cincinnati, where I 
spent some weeks ; thence per boat to Louisville, Kentucky. 
My first sermon in this State was delivered on the 30th 
December, in a Baptist church. 

On the night of my arrival at Louisville I became ac- 
quainted, at a public house, with the Hon. John Brown, of 
Frankfort, Kentucky. Being from the same part of Virginia, 
formerly, and knowing many of my relations, he showed 
great interest in me, and we were mutually pleased with our 
meeting together. He gave me a most cordial invitation to 
his house in Frankfort, also much information respecting my 
relations in Kentucky, which I had wished much to know. 
In almost all my visits, afterward, to Frankfort, — and they 


y. D. PAXTON , ; D.D. 


81 


were many while I lived in Kentucky, — his house was my 
home ; and after his death, his son, Judge Brown, and his 
excellent lady, showed me the same kindness. I found two 
uncles, Paxtons, living on the Upper Benson, near Frankfort, 
and many other relations, both on my father’s and mother’s 
side, in different parts of the State. 

Having spent some time in the vicinity of Lexington, I 
was invited by the church in Woodford to settle with them. 
I remained with them between one and two years; was on 
the whole well pleased, found some very pleasant families 
and pious people, formed some lasting friendships, but did 
not see my way clear to be installed, and thus become per- 
manent. 

During this time I made a journey to Virginia, passing 
through East Tennessee, to visit the families of my sisters, 
Holt and Rice, and taking with me my sister, Cowan, and 
my nephew, J. W. Paxton, to see our dear parents. 

In making this journey I experienced a most kind prov- 
idential deliverance from great danger in crossing the Hol- 
ston in East Tennessee. It had rained a great deal, and the 
river was swollen. There was no ferry-boat, as, in the usual 
state of the river, the fording was easy and safe. It was 
now much swollen, but whether too much to ford I could 
not tell. There was no house near, and the water was too 
muddy to admit of my seeing the bottom and judging of its 
depth. Not far from the river I had met a person that 
had crossed, who said it could be forded, and advised me 
to keep near, but above, a ripple that I would see on the 
stream. My sister and nephew were with me in a small, 
one horse-buggy. The ripple, and the direction of the road 
on the two sides of the river, showed that I must come out 
a good deal higher up the river than I entered in, and of 
course pass against the current. I soon found that this 
made the draft very heavy on the horse. He hesitated, 


82 


MEMOIR OF 


wanted to stop, and made an attempt to turn round, and in 
this attempt one of the shafts broke near the middle, and 
the fore part fell off and floated down the river. It hap- 
pened that we were in the deepest part, and after a minute’s 
pause, I managed to start the horse in the right direction, 
and a few steps brought us to a more shallow part, the draft 
became lighter, and without any more difficulty we reached 
the other side. 

The danger was very great; the water too deep to wade, 
the current strong, and below the ripple, deeper than where 
we crossed. I count it one of those kind providences 
which deserves especial record, several of which I have ex- 
perienced in my life. Thanks be to God for these and all 
other mercies ! 

At the close of my year at Woodford I accepted a call 
to the church in Danville. I found this a large church, 
well attended ; the largest in that part of the State, and, 
with a few exceptions, the largest and most intelligent in 
the State. The population was of a superior kind, and the 
presence of the college, professors, "and students added 
much to the interest of the place. Like all other places 
that have advantages, it had also its disadvantages. There 
was a good deal of diversity of religious sentiment in the 
congregation. The President of Centre College, Dr. Black- 
burn, was an active, laborious man in the ministry, but an 
active partisan of what then began to be called New School- 
ism. He took pains to imbue his students with these no- 
tions. A leading part of the eldership and the congrega- 
tion were opposed to those views, and did not, therefore, 
encourage his preaching much in the church. He almost 
always preached on the Sabbath, but generally at some dis- 
tance, often riding ten or fifteen miles to preach. 

I soon ascertained that it would not be easy to keep a 
neutral position, but for a time made efforts to do so. 


y. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


83 


There was a pretty decided difference of opinion as to the 
management of the college ; and it came to my knowledge 
that a strong party in Synod had a plan to prevent the 
college from becoming a nursery for New Schoolism. 
This was carried into effect at the next meeting of the 
Synod, when a considerable number of trustees were ap- 
pointed. The Old School party succeeded in filling up the 
number with men of their own opinions, and thus greatly 
weakened the New School interest. 

The result of this election of trustees, the debate and 
statements connected with it, were so offensive to Dr. B., 
the president, that he at once resigned, and with him a 
considerable portion of the students left 'college. This 
was not wholly unexpected, and did not discourage those 
who had planned and effected the change or reform. 
A new president, Dr. J. C. Young, was soon chosen, and 
other professors in due time appointed, and the college en- 
tered on a course of prosperity which it had never before 
enjoyed. 

While my situation was in several respects pleasant, a 
large, moral, and pious congregation, a society better than 
usual, literary and social advantages above ordinary, there 
were drawbacks, which I could feel more than others. My 
experience as the pastor of the college church in Prince 
Edward had taught me that the pastorship of churches at 
institutions, or locations where there are several ministers, 
and a variety of preaching, is apt to create “ itching ears,” 
and form parties among the hearers. “ One is for Paul and 
another for Apollos. ’ 1 

It also often happens at those public places that many 
more preachers call and spend some time than at other 
places. These, for the most part, expect to be invited to 
preach, and it might seem unkind, both to them and the 
congregation, not to invite them. Such frequent changes 


8 4 


MEMOIR OF 


must greatly interrupt a regular course of religious training 
of the people. As a general thing, both in Prince Edward 
and in Danville, I was able to maintain a friendly inter- 
course with the ministers connected with college, and also 
with those who called in passing. All my experience, how- 
ever, would be in favor of some small, quiet, and, I might 
add, retired situation, where variety and change are not 
much known or desired. 

Having taken charge of the church at Danville, I felt 
that I might again seek a partner for life, and in due time 
married Mrs. Margaret McFarland, relict of Rev. John 
McFarland. It pleased God again to give me a helpmeet 
who suited me, and who was well fitted for the situation 
in which she was placed. I had ample evidence that my 
choice met the general approbation of the congregation. 

In May, 1831, I was appointed Commissioner to the Gen- 
eral Assembly. I left home in a carriage with Mrs. Paxton, 
taking with us, as driver, Denis, a colored boy who belonged 
to her.* One of our objects was to bring home to Ken- 
tucky my son, John Garland, whom I had left with my sis- 
ter, but who was then on a visit to his mother’s relations at 
the Red Hills, near Charlottesville. I left Mrs. P. there, 
while I went to Philadelphia to attend the Assembly ; she, 
in the mean time, made a visit to Providence, Goochland 
County, where her mother, Mrs. Mary Todd, had passed her 
early days. On returning from the Assembly, I found the 
friends in Rockbridge in usual health, my father, however, 
failing from age. We returned by the Kanawha route, and 
reached home in safety, after an absence of nearly two 
months. 

In October I lost my son, my only child, from scarlet 
fever, which I felt most deeply ; but the Lord gave, and 
the Lord hath taken away, and blessed be his holy name. 


Liberated with others, and emigrated to Liberia in 1832. 


J. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


85 


A convention, from the Presbyteries of the West, met in 
Cincinnati in December, with a view to harmonize opinion 
and action in the West, in regard to Domestic Missions, 
which conflict of parties impeded. I attended the conven- 
tion. The result of the meeting was rather to separate 
than unite the parties. What was called the New School 
party had much strength, and through the Missionary So- 
ciety at the North, of which they had the control, pushed 
forward their plans with success. The Old School, acting 
through the Board of the Assembly, was equally earnest. 
The parties could not be harmonized, the division seemed 
to grow wider, and the party leaders more and more op- 
posed. 

In August, 1832, my father died, in his eighty-fifth year. 
Being left one of the executors of his estate, and knowing 
that mother was now left alone, I felt it my duty to visit 
her and see how matters stood. My wife accompanied me, 
and our hope was, that mother could be induced to come 
to the West and spend her remaining days with us. We 
had a pleasant visit, but found my mother unwilling to leave 
the place and the neighbors, with whom she had spent a 
long life. I found her living comfortably, with my brother, 
as a member of his family, and satisfied with her situation. 
Returning through East Tennessee, we made a short visit to 
my brother, James, in Abingdon, and the relatives near our 
route. 

I resumed my labors at Danville, and continued them 
with about the usual trials and success for about a year, 
when we, with many other parts of the West, had a fearful 
visitation of Asiatic cholera. In a few weeks we lost some 
valuable members of society. Out of a population of eight 
or nine hundred, eighty persons died. A deaf and dumb 
nephew of my wife was carried off with it ; and among the 
last that fell under its stroke was my dear wife. It was an 

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MEMOIR OF 


awful visitation to the place, and left me again bereaved 
and my house desolate. 

I continued my pastoral labors until spring, and then en- 
gaged in an agency for the American Board for Foreign 
Missions. I advocated the cause of Missions about six 
months, bearing my own expenses, and traveling chiefly in 
Kentucky. 

I attended the anniversaries at New York in the spring 
of 1834, and was present, though not a member, at the meet- 
ing of the General Assembly at that time. The state of 
parties in the Assembly indicated that a division of the 
church would probably take place. 

A number of considerations led me to conclude that I 
would make a visit to Europe, and possibly extend it to the 
Mission stations around the Mediterranean. My agency 
had led me to desire more information about the nature of 
the work and its difficulties. While prosecuting that agency, 
objections were urged,, and questions proposed, connected 
with the missionary work, which my previous information 
did not enable me to answer. Intelligent Christians, inter- 
ested in the spreading of the gospel, and ready to help, 
preferred working through their own church organization 
to that of what they considered a voluntary board of irre- 
sponsible commissioners. 

There were then connected with Centre College four 
preachers, Messrs. Young, Breckenridge, Green, and Huber, 
and it seemed to me the congregation might be supplied 
with preaching without an additional one as pastor. In 
truth, the pastorship at a place where there were from three 
to five professors in the Assembly as hearers, did not to me 
appear at all desirable. I therefore resigned the pastoral 
charge early in the summer preparatory to going abroad. 


J. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


87 


CHAPTER IV. 


Voyage — Liverpool Docks — Manchester — Birmingham Cutlery — 
Warwick and Kenilworth Castles — Roads — Stage — London — Guy 
Fawkes’ Day — Lord Mayor’s Show Day — Church Reform — Carica- 
ture — Wine Cellars — Newspapers — Postage — Museum — Thames — 
Dover Cliffs — France — Diligence — Beggars — Lamps — Religion — 
Schools — Will of Louis XVI. — How to make Saints — A Widow’s 
Proposal — Carnival — Morgue — Attempt to Force a Union of 
Churches — Preachers — Religious Meeting — Episcopal School — 
Concert of Prayer — An Inquirer — Bost — Ordination of Missionaries 
— An Aged Disciple — Four Months’ Observations of Parisian Man- 
ners and Customs — Tombs of Two Dukes — Lyons — A Monod. 



N the first of October, 1834, we left New York on 


board a steamboat, which took us down to the Nar- 
rows to the packet Europe. The wind ahead and a heavy- 
rain falling, the packet came to anchor. At ten a.m. next 
day weighed anchor, with fine weather, fair wind, passed 
Sandy Hook and bore to sea; a great swell; soon became 
sea-sick and went below. 

4 th. Clear, calm; in the Gulf Stream, here 75 miles 
wide ; ten degrees warmer than other parts of the sea in 
the same latitude; current one mile wide, N.E. I was 
struck, last evening, with the large number of strange phe- 
nomena in the water. Star-fish, or sea-nettles, or jelly- 
like substances, with light, shining appearances, and often 
throwing out a substance of a silvery appearance, which 
soon spread and disappeared ; at night it was bright and 
phosphorescent, and much resembled the lightning-bug or 
glow-worm on land, but at times much larger — sometimes 


88 


MEMOIR OF 


twelve and eighteen inches diameter, soon disappearing. 
The sea has a deep-blue appearance. 

6th. Our wind continues fair, and our run is good, often 
ten or eleven knots per hour. We have thirty cabin pas- 
sengers, and a good many in the steerage. The passage in 
the cabin, all found, wines and spirits excepted, is one 
hundred and twenty dollars. The eating rather too good. 
Breakfast at eight ; luncheon at twelve ; dinner at four ; 
and tea at eight p.m. A steerage passage is fifteen dollars, 
the passengers finding everything. They stay in the fore- 
part of the ship, and never come back of the capstan, and 
have no intercourse with the cabin passengers. 

ioth. Fine weather; light winds; kept the Gulf Stream 
until past the Banks, the south part of which we crossed 
last night. 

19 th. Through a kind Providence we are now near Liv- 
erpool. We passed Holyhead lighthouse this morning. 
I noticed, as we sailed along North Wales from Holy- 
head, a number of towers, which I was told were tele- 
graphs; also several lighthouses, — the double revolving 
light below the town is a noble one. 

We owe much to the goodness of God for the care and 
favor enjoyed. We have had a pleasant voyage on the 
whole. Drs. Reed and Mattheson, who had visited the 
United States as delegates from the Congregational Union, 
returned to England in the Europe. Their company was 
agreeable, but there was about them what might be called 
an English reserve, which prevented me from gaining much 
information from them, either as to English and European 
matters, or their impressions about what they saw in the 
United States. 

20 th. We reached Liverpool at seven p.m. of the 19th, 
and landed in good health and spirits. We had been tele- 
graphed from Holyhead, and the consignees sent a 


y. D. PAXTON , i D.D. 


89 


steamer for us to the Bar, a distance of fifteen miles, where 
we had anchored. Three Sabbaths passed while we were 
on board, on each of which we had public worship. I 
preached on the second Sabbath, at night, the rocking of 
the vessel and the weather not allowing before, and then I 
had to sit, it not being possible for me to stand still. To 
me, the time on board appeared short, — still I was glad to 
set my feet on terra firma again, and especially on the soil 
of Old England. 

Liverpool is a place of considerable interest — the second 
in commercial importance in England. Its population may 
be over 160,000. The trade with the United States, and 
especially the cotton trade, centers here. The great cotton 
manufacturing district lies near this, and receives through 
Liverpool most of the raw material, and returns through it 
much, if not most of the manufactured articles. About 
18,000 bales of cotton per week, on an average, are needed 
to supply the manufactories in Manchester and adjacent 
country, above three-fourths of which is received from 
the United States through Liverpool. 

The Liverpool docks are noble works. The rise and fall 
of the tides are so great in the river that vessels cannot lie 
at wharves as they do in New York and some other ports. 
Along the margin of the river a line of docks is placed, — 
some of them of great extent, — surrounded with walls and 
gates. Within these docks, where the water can, by gates, 
be kept at such a height as may be requisite, vessels find 
a safe and quiet resting-place. The number of vessels 
here is very great, and from almost all parts. The public 
buildings of Liverpool are quite respectable. The Ex- 
change, Town Hall, and some of the churches may be 
mentioned. The new Custom House, when finished, will 
rank high among buildings of this sort. 

The railroad from Liverpool to Manchester is a work of 
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MEMOIR OF 


considerable interest. Immediately on starting it has to 
encounter its greatest difficulty — the hill over which the 
upper part of Liverpool is spread. The hill is tunneled, 
the tunnel arched over and well lighted, and the cars pass 
through in a short time. There are several cuts from 
twenty-five to forty feet deep. Much of the rock, old red 
sandstone. 

The distance from Liverpool to Manchester by rail is 
about thirty-two miles. The train of cars in which I was 
passed it in one hour and a quarter. This is traveling too 
fast to get a good view of the country : however, I noted 
that the country was well improved ; fields looked small ; 
trees small, and scattered over the ground ; few fences ; 
ditches, with slight hedges ; many evergreens ; and ipany 
trees planted along the roadside. A district of moss, seven 
miles wide, is crossed ; it will probably be reclaimed. 

Manchester is more populous than Liverpool. It is not 
equal to it in neatness. It lies low, and from the immense 
number of furnaces and factories, it has a dark and dirty 
appearance. The country for many miles around appears 
covered with factories. Their high chimneys can be seen 
in all directions. This district contains the chief cotton 
manufactories of England. Through the polite attention 
of a proprietor, I visited one, and could not but admire 
the admirable arrangements of all its parts — the complex, 
but nicely arranged machinery. At one end the raw cot- 
ton was taken in and the work begun, and at the other the 
cloths of various kinds came out — parts of it a splendid 
fabric. The immediate neighborhood of Manchester, a 
little out of the smoke and bustle of the town, is spotted 
with many neat, and even elegant, seats of the more wealthy 
class. The road to Birmingham, via Newcastle, is through 
a most lovely country, finely improved. The residences of 
Lords Vincent, Vernon, and others of the nobility were 


y. D. PAXTON ; D.D. 


9 1 


pointed out. Their grounds were in good state; fields 
larger than general. 

At a considerable distance from Birmingham we entered 
a region almost covered with coal-pits and furnaces and 
fires. I felt regret that night had come on as we entered 
it ; but I know not that a day view would have been more 
interesting than the night view we enjoyed. The whole face 
of the country appeared lighted up with fires. At one time 
I counted sixty. Many of these fires arose from the burn- 
ing of coal into coke for the use of the factories. Many 
others, furnaces in operation. There is almost a continual 
town for seven miles, before reaching the city. 

Birmingham is unrivaled for its cutlery and most kinds 
of work in metals. The shops exhibit a richness that 
astonishes a stranger. I visited Thomason’s Show Rooms 
of Manufactures. The collection is rich in silver and steel. 
An imitation of the Warwick vase, the Wellington shield, 
and a set of symbolic medals are superb. Room after room 
was thrown open, and new varieties of costly and varied 
metallic manufacture presented, until the eye became weary 
and the mind ready to conclude, verily, this is the ne plus 
ultra of what man can effect in metals. 

The new City Hall, not quite finished, is a splendid 
building. The main room is a double cube, 145 feet by 60, 
and 60 feet high, richly ornamented ; a space being allowed 
at one end for a stupendous organ, weighing from 40 to 50 
tons. Its largest pipe is 35 feet long and 5 feet 5 inches 
round, as the superintendent assured us. Its tones are 
powerful ; I did not hear it played. 

On the morning of the 31st took a stage for Warwick. 
After breakfast I walked over to the castle which adjoins 
the town. It is a noble pile of buildings. 

The Earl and his family are on the Continent. The 
housekeeper showed the apartments. The suite of rooms 


9 2 


MEMOIR OF 


now occupied is 333 feet long, richly furnished, containing 
some rare paintings, library, mosaic floors, a table inlaid 
with pearls, an armory, with old armor of various kinds, 
and valuable specimens of minerals. The tower is high, 
commanding a fine view of the country. The green-house 
is full of rare plants, and in it is the famous Warwick vase. 
It stood formerly in the center of the castle-yard. There 
are four human faces on each side of the vase. It stands 
on a pedestal of marble about five feet high \ it may be 
seven feet across the mouth, and five feet deep — is in a 
pretty good state of preservation, considering its antiquity. 
It is of white marble. There is a fine eagle near it in 
plaster work. 

The walls are high and of great thickness, extending in 
circumference six miles. The grounds are in fine order — 
saw many old people gathering up the leaves that had 
fallen, and other loose matter. A small stream runs close 
by the side of the castle, and has an artificial fall in pass- 
ing. Altogether, this is one of the best samples of the 
ancient baronial castles to be met with. As much is said 
about them in history, it is well worth seeing one — a sight 
will enable us. to understand more readily many things met 
with in the record of past times. 

On going from Warwick to Coventry, I passed through 
Kenilworth village, within half a mile of the celebrated 
Kenilworth Castle. I walked over to see it. It is a ruin, 
but truly magnificent in ruins. Much of the building is 
gone, and the remainder fast mouldering away, except the 
tower over the ancient gateway, which is altered, and occu- 
pied by a farmer. Nothing remains but part of the walls, 
and they are fast sinking down before the hand of time. 
Much of them was overgrown with ivy. A large part of 
the yard is used as a barn-yard, and was stacked with grain. 
The area of the castle-yard contained three or four acres. 


J. D. PAXTON , ; D.D. 


93 


It may seem strange that a wall from five to eight feet, 
and in some places possibly ten feet, should in so many 
places have disappeared, and in all that remains be so mani- 
festly sinking under the influence of the elements ; but a 
slight examination of the materials and the workmanship 
of the wall made the matter plain. The stone chiefly used 
is a very soft sandstone. When exposed long to the weather 
it crumbles and falls to pieces. The outside faces of the 
stones were wrought, but the other parts, especially the 
filling, was composed of all sorts of rock : fragments of 
rock, water-worn pebbles, sand, earth, and but little lime. 
There was in fact no cement in the wall, at least, not what 
deserves the name. The ruins, however, gave ample testi- 
mony that the castle was once a place of great splendor 
and great strength, and was probably the usual workman- 
ship of its time. 

The materials and construction of Kenilworth Castle 
may throw some light on the question, How comes it that 
so many of those ancient structures mentioned in olden 
times, and described as master-works in their day, have so 
disappeared that their places are now not known ? The 
ancient mode of building was possibly far inferior to the 
modern, as to the character of the materials and the mode 
of putting them together. Kenilworth Castle was, it 
would seem, in good keeping until the time of Cromwell, 
when it was dismantled and abandoned. It would be easy 
to select many modern structures, which, if abandoned 
now, would not, in an equal period of time, exhibit such a 
desolation. 

Whether it be owing to Scott’s bewitching tale of Ken- 
ilworth, or to an increasing fondness for looking at old 
ruins, I leave others to decide, while I report the fact, that 
every part of these ruins exhibit marks of many visitors. It 
is not uncommon, I am told, for fifty carriages to visit it 


94 


MEMOIR OF 


in a day, and a due proportion of persons by other modes 
erf conveyance. But enough of castles and old buildings. 
A good moral hangs to this old ruin. Where are those 
who built it? those that in proud magnificence reveled 
there ? Where the many who resorted to it, and mingled 
in the festivities, and banquets, and dissipations of which 
it was the scene ? They have gone, and are mostly for- 
gotten, more so than those ruins are, fast as they are sink- 
ing to the dust. “ The memory of the wicked shall rot, 
while the righteous shall be had in everlasting remem- 
brance.’ ’ 

Spent a night at Coventry, once famous in history, but 
now distinguished for its ribbon manufactures. From 
thence passed by stage through the highly-improved 
counties of Northampton and Bedford, en route to London. 
The Bedford chalk beds struck me much — the whole 
county is based on layers of chalk. Arrived at the great 
metropolis, and put up at the Belle Savage Hotel on the 
night of November ist. 

The excellency of the English roads has exceeded my 
expectations. They are equal to our best specimens of 
Macadamized turnpikes. Constant attention is paid to 
them ; many persons are constantly employed to fill every 
hole, and repair any part, scrape off the mud, drain the 
water, and keep the whole as smooth and as clean as a 
bowling-green. The old mode of paving with large, round 
stone, making a firm, but very rough road, appears super- 
seded by the Macadamized mode. The sidewalks of the 
principal streets, of the chief cities, I have seen, are laid 
with hewn stone, called flags, which make a most comfort- 
able foot-walk. It was often remarked, when I referred to 
their excellent state, they ought to be good, for we pay a 
heavy tax to keep them in order. But such roads cause 
an immense saving of time and labor. Three or four times 


y. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


95 


as much produce can be taken to market by the same 
power as can be carried over bad roads. The saving of 
time, of the trouble and delay, go far to make amends for 
the tax the farmer has to pay, and of which he is disposed 
to complain. 

The body of the English stage-coach is made small, so 
as to contain but four passengers, while a provision is 
made for accommodating three or four times that number 
on the top, or outside. The baggage is placed part in a 
boot in front, part in a box behind, but the most of it on 
the top. The bulk and weight on the top, from the pas- 
sengers and their baggage of all sorts, is at times very 
great. 

Travelers on the outside pay but half of what is paid for 
a place within. The inside is the most honorable , so that 
the traveler may settle as he likes best the claims of his 
honor and his pocket. To a stranger the outside has spe- 
cial claims. The opportunity, from the top of a coach, to 
see the highly improved country, the splendid mansions 
and grounds of the nobility and gentry, and the neat cot- 
tages of the poor, is fine, and richly compensates for all 
the drawbacks of an outrider. Most of the stages have an 
attendant, or guard, who takes care of the baggage and 
acts as servant to the company. Both the coachman and 
the guard expect, at the end of their stage, which may be 
from thirty to a hundred miles, a fee from each passenger. 

The rate of speed is from eight to twelve miles, and at 
times fifteen miles an hour. It might be thought impossi- 
ble, with such top-loads, to travel at such speed without 
mishaps; but such is the perfection of the roads that an 
accident seldom happens. The roads are so smooth and 
level and free from short turns that little danger attends 
the usual speed. 

The inns are usually very comfortable, and I much wish 


9 6 


MEMOIR OF 


that our innkeepers would take a lesson from John Bull in 
this matter. There is, in what are called good houses, a 
neatness, and a convenience, and a comfort which are 
most grateful to a traveler. And, I may add, a promptness 
in supplying your wants that merits commendation. But 
it is not to be forgotten that all is to be paid for, and that 
at a pretty good price, — on an average, more than in the 
United States. It is, to one not accustomed to it, rather 
vexatious to have to pay, at each inn where he may have 
stayed all night, not only the landlord , but the waiter and 
chambermaid, and a third attendant who by general under- 
standing is called boots. This custom is a considerable 
annoyance. It were much better for the landlord to em- 
brace the whole in his bill and relieve the traveler of hav- 
ing to do with so many. This is done at the Adelphi, in 
Liverpool, but at no other place where I have yet been. 

In the hurry of a fifteen-minutes’ meal on the road, all 
eat at the same table, but in other instances, and with 
boarders at the public houses, each traveler, or each com- 
pany, has a table for himself, calls for w r hat he wants, 
makes his own tea, and pours out his own coffee, which is 
generally good. 

Carriages meeting on the road keep not to the right, as 
with us, but to the left. 

The United States is regarded with much and varied in- 
terest by Englishmen. I have had repeated occasions to 
notice the interest with which the people of England re- 
gard the United States. In Liverpool I heard remarks 
made repeatedly that implied a deep interest in the con- 
tinuance of peace and friendly intercourse between the two 
countries. The matter of continued peace was several 
times directly referred to, and my opinion asked respect- 
ing it. The same occurred at Manchester and at Bir- 
mingham. In America I seldom, if ever, heard the subject 


y. D. PAXTON ; D.D. 


97 


mentioned. It is not a subject of thought or conversation. 
I was therefore rather startled at the repeated references to 
it, and the inquiries as to the feelings of the Americans 
respecting it, and, in general, as to their feelings toward 
England. 

I replied, in substance, that as far as I knew, we felt no 
apprehension of any interruption of the peaceful relations 
between the two countries; that I knew of no causes of 
complaint, on either side, of a serious nature ; that, as a 
general matter, the old unkind feelings we might have had 
were fast wearing away, and that good feelings toward 
England, as the family and parent stock from which we 
descended, were daily gaining ground. A repetition, which 
was sometimes drawn from me, that this was, in my opin- 
ion, the tendency of the public sentiment in the United 
States toward England, appeared generally to give satis- 
faction. 

On several occasions I thought I discovered, before the 
close of the conversation, one excuse, at least, for the un- 
easiness or sensitiveness on this matter. If the inquirer 
were a merchant or a manufacturer, he would refer to the 
immense trade between the two countries, and the losses, 
and almost ruin, to thousands that would flow from the 
stopping of intercourse between them ; it would produce, 
in a few months, a degree of distress, in many districts, 
which it would not be easy to describe. It would more or 
less affect all classes, from the importing merchant to the 
boy in the factory. 

While self-interest was manifest, other lurking feelings 
could be discerned. While waiting at an inn for a stage, 
to while away the time I took out some paper and was 
taking some notes, when a genteel, good-looking man 
came in. He took occasion, from some article in a news- 
paper into which he was looking, to make a remark to me 

9 


9 8 


MEMOIR OF 


about some local matter of news. I gave a reply indicating 
my ignorance of the subject. It was followed, on his part, 
with several other references to it, evidently implying a 
wish to converse with me, and rather surprise at my an- 
swers. To get out of the difficulty, and to put a better 
face on my ignorance of a subject which appeared to inter- 
est him much, I informed him that I was from the United 
States, and but too recently arrived to know much about 
the domestic matters of his country. After a few remarks 
of a common-place nature, the following conversation took 
place. I do not pretend to give it verbatim , but as near as 
I can recollect : 

“What is the reason,” said he, in a tone and manner 
which seemed designed to bespeak an apology for intro- 
ducing a subject that might not be pleasant, “what is the 
reason that you Americans have such unkind feelings toward 
England ?” 

I replied, “I don’t admit that we have such feelings, 
and therefore need not inquire after the cause of their sup- 
posed existence.” 

Englishman. — “Why, I have always been led to believe 
that your people have a very great animosity against us, 
and would like to injure us whenever you get a good op- 
portunity.” 

Answer . — “I do not admit the fact alleged. There 
were, no doubt, unkind feelings formerly toward England, 
growing out of our family quarrels, as they may be called ; 
but these are becoming old things, and with the great body 
of our people there is a growing feeling of good-will to- 
ward England.” 

Englishman . — “I am glad to hear it. But I surely 
thought that the case was otherwise.” 

Answer . — “I do not say that no unkind feeling exists in 
individuals. I speak of the feelings of our people gener- 


J. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


99 


ally, and in that I think I am not mistaken- In all com- 
munities you may find exceptions to the generally preva- 
lent character. And, allow me to add, your own people 
are the cause of the large part of the unkind feeling that 
at times may be exhibited. Your travelers misrepresent 
and caricature, and laugh at us, — and no people like to be 
thus treated.” 

Englishman. — “ Ah ! Mrs. Trollope (etc.) has told 
some tales about you, but you ought not to be offended at 
England for what she does, — don’t mind her.” 

Answer. — “But some of you Englishmen mind her re- 
port and circulate her caricatures as fair samples of Ameri- 
can manners and habits. Now, we are the more sensitive 
from the fact that we are a young people. We are not yet 
out of our teens. Our national character as to manners and 
customs is forming, and charges now made, though false, 
may with some gain credit, and thus do us a real injury. 
England is old and has an established character. You 
know an ill-natured slander on a young person may be 
mortifying and vexatious, if not injurious in after-days.” 

Englishman. — “Well, that is true ! I suppose you have 
some cause for complaint. But still, I rather think you are 
an ambitious people, and will, when you get a fair occasion, 
show it. But how did it come to pass that you so beat us 
at sea during the last war ? — it is to me most astonishing ! ’ * 

Answer. — “I don’t know that I can assign all the rea- 
sons, but I think I can some of them. Our vessels had no 
man on board that was not there willingly, — they were all 
at heart Americans, and put their heart into what they did. 
Your crews were suspected of having many put there and 
kept against their will. ’ * 

Englishman. — “Ah! very true, very true!” — then, more 
slowly, “ you acquitted yourselves nobly — you are becoming 
a great people — I wish you may not prove too ambitious. 


IOO 


MEMOIR OF 


You think that the Americans feel kindly toward England? 
That’s right ! Our countries ought to be in friendship 
with each other.” 

The stage now passed, and I hastily got in, while the 
stranger bade me a kind farewell, following me to the 
door, and even repeating to me after I was in the stage 
that he was glad that he had met with me. I had no op- 
portunity of learning who he was, but set him down for a 
high-toned churchman and a politician. 

Guy Fawkes’ Day is still observed, but not with the spirit 
it once was. The most that I saw on that day connected 
with its observance, was a miserably ugly figure, paraded 
about the streets by a set of dirty, ragged boys, who 
stopped and stated something about Guy Fawkes, and 
begged a penny of the spectators, in aid of the commemo- 
ration. I saw several of these during the day. At night, 
it is said, they make a bonfire of them, and accompany it 
with more fooleries and much noise. Some churches have 
a service on that day, in reference to the event referred to. 
The whole matter, however, is worn out so much as to ex- 
cite but little interest. It is rather a singular circumstance, 
that on the late Guy Fawkes’ Day fires should have burst 
out in the cellars, the very place where, of old, Guy Fawkes 
had prepared his powder and other materials to send a 
Protestant Parliament, king, lords, and commons, sky- 
high. The Parliament Houses had been burnt accidentally 
a few weeks before. In the mass of materials and rubbish 
which had fallen into the cellars the fire most probably 
had found means to keep itself alive until the 5th Novem- 
ber, a memorable day. 

The Lord Mayor’s Show Day is an appellation given to 
the day in which the new Lord Mayor is sworn into office. 
He goes from Guild Hall, the place where the Common 
Council of the city holds its sessions, to Westminster, where 


J. D . PAXTON, D.D. 


IOI 


the principal courts sit, in the state coach, drawn by six 
horses, accompanied by the city authorities, and escorted 
by the city bands. A great display is made. The uni- 
forms, badges, and flags of the companies, and the liveries 
of the attendants, are most gorgeous and splendid. I ob- 
served in one of the companies three men on horseback, 
in full suits of ancient armor, each different in kind from 
the other, their horses led by grooms on foot in rich liv- 
eries, and accompanied by their men-at-arms. The pro- 
cession passed through several streets to the river, and 
thence by water to Westminster, where the Mayor was 
sworn in, and received the insignia of his office as Lord 
Mayor of London. The procession returned as they went, 
partly by water and partly by land, to Guild Hall, where 
the new Lord Mayor gave a dinner. The boats in which 
the party went are splendid barges, richly ornamented and 
covered with gold, making a gorgeous appearance. I am 
told that much less interest is now taken in those pomps 
and displays than formerly. I wish that as they lose their 
hold on the public mind here, they may not, as many 
things, find imitators on our side of the Atlantic. 

The great question which agitates this country is church 
reform. It is discussed with much spirit, and not unfre- 
quently with much asperity. It is manifest that our country 
has already an influence here on this question. She is 
repeatedly appealed to, and arguments for and against are 
drawn from our papers and statistics. It is a matter well 
deserving of serious attention on our side of the water to 
have our statistics as correct as possible, not only for our 
own sakes, but for the use made of them on this side. 

I did not reach London in time to hear the report of 
Drs. Reed and Mattheson, but am assured by those who 
heard it, that it was highly satisfactory, and made a favor- 
able impression as to the state of things in the United 

9 * 


102 


MEMOIR OF 


States. We have no reason to expect they will approve 
of all they saw and heard. For one, I wish their full and 
frank opinion ; let them tell us our faults, that we may 
correct them, but tell us with the kindness of a friend, and 
give us credit for our virtues, but without flattery ; thus I 
have told those excellent brethren, and thus I doubt not 
they will do. 

London is truly a great city. It covers about eighteen 
square miles, and contains about one million and a half of 
people. I have never seen any streets so habitually crowded 
with people as its great thoroughfares, the Strand, Ludgate 
Hill, Fleet Street, Cheapside, Aldgate, Holborn, etc. The 
crowds of people are not more striking than the richness of 
its stores, almost innumerable. In looking at the stores, 
shops, and merchandise, one is ready to think there is 
enough to supply a world ; but after looking at the never- 
ceasing crowds that pour along the streets, one is led to 
ask, Where can food and clothing and necessaries of all 
kinds be found for such multitudes ? 

London can also boast some noble structures and ad- 
mirable institutions. But I fear to attempt a detail .of 
them, much more a description. The west end of the city 
is the court end ; there the Palace is placed, the Houses 
of Parliament, Westminster, the chief parks, residences 
of the nobility and gentry, and many of the offices con- 
nected with government. The Bank, Exchange, Man- 
sion House, Guild Hall, St. Paul’s, near the middle of the 
city. The Docks, Custom House, East India House, more 
to the east end. Splendid buildings are to be met with 
in almost all parts ; the above statement will give an idea 
of the location of the most important buildings. The evi- 
dences of wealth almost incalculable everywhere present 
themselves, and that not only in the buildings and monu- 
ments, but in the recorded expenditures on special occa- 


y. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


103 


sions. For example: in passing Guild Hall, which was 
then fitting up for a grand ball, I stepped in to see the 
building and look at the room where the Lord Mayor re- 
ceived the Prince Regent and Allied Sovereigns in 1814, 
at a feast which cost above twenty-five thousand pounds 
sterling. 

Westminster Abbey is a most imposing pile of buildings, 
containing much to admire and wonder at. The work- 
manship of the chapel of Henry VII. is inimitable. Prayers 
are said at 10 a.m. and 3 p.m. I attended the service. 
There were present ten boys in white, five on opposite 
sides ; four men in white robes, three on one side, and 
one on the other ; some thirty or forty persons, many of 
whom appeared to have come in to see the building, paint- 
ings, and sculpture, as it is free at that time. What an 
expensive establishment for such a service ! The same 
may be said of a similar daily service performed at St. 
Paul’s, which I had previously witnessed. 

In my rambles I met a friend who informed me he was 
going to see the famous wine cellars, and proposed that I 
should go with him. I agreed. They lie near the London 
docks. We explored one of these vaults, covering five and 
a half acres of ground, arched above and paved below, con- 
nected with another covering four and a half acres ; and 
looked into one of four acres. They are divided into long 
rooms, by walls which cross each other. Many of these 
rooms or passages are lighted with lamps ; all of them have 
ventilators. Along the sides of these rooms are piled up 
barrels of wine, and the quantity appeared immense. Over 
this great cellar is a tobacco warehouse, which covers even 
more ground than the wine cellar. 

I attended a great political meeting of Whigs, at night, 
held at the London Tavern, in reference to the turning 
out of the Whig ministry. Some pretty good speaking, 


104 


MEMOIR OF 


but much noise, a la mode of English meetings. A Wel- 
lington ministry was much deprecated. The duke was 
handled without mittens. “ A crisis! a crisis in our re- 
form !” the Whigs say. “The Lord rules,” may all say; 
and may all look to Him. 

The British Museum contains a noble collection of books, 
minerals, statuary, antiquities, and natural history. Truly, 
King George III. did at least one good thing, — he made a 
princely collection. The donation of his valuable library 
of 80,000 volumes is worthy of a king. This, added to the 
library of the Museum, makes a total of 300,000 volumes. 

This Museum is the only place of much interest in 
London that a stranger can see without having to pay for 
it. You may, it is true, look at the parks, and at the out- 
side of the buildings, without being reminded that some- 
thing is expected ; but if you wish to see the inside, and 
walk through the building r you must pay for it ; and some- 
times in detail, as I made trial of at St. Paul’s, viz., at 
the entrance, exterior and whispering galleries, library, 
model and trophy room, clock and bell, geometrical stair- 
case, the ball, and the vaults. It is not much to the credit 
of Old England, or to the church dignitaries who preside 
over her churches, that a stranger cannot look into a 
church, nor read the monuments of her illustrious dead, 
without being at every turn reminded that a fee must be 
paid for so doing ! 

I saw the pageantry of the Lord Mayor coming out of 
St. James Court, after the presentation of the address of 
the citizens of London to his Majesty, respecting the dis- 
missal of the Whig ministry. He was in the superb state 
coach, his attendants in gorgeous liveries, and accompanied 
by fifteen or more coaches containing the aldermen, city 
authorities, and others. The crowd cheered loudly as the 
Mayor was driven off in his coach. What pomp ! 


y. D. PAXTON ; D.D. 


io 5 

Considering that the Mayor is a high Tory, it must have 
been rather an unpleasant duty to be made the organ of 
presenting such a curry-comb of an address. The people, 
who have to pay for all these displays, are becoming tired, 
if not of the pomp, at least of the taxes, and are loud in 
their demands for reform in church and state, and for relief 
from their burden of taxes. 

The amount of taxes collected from this people is as- 
tounding. Nearly everything is taxed, and often the same 
thing is taxed in two, three, or four forms. I passed a 
house to-day before which a label was fixed, stating that 
taxes to the amount of fifteen pounds had been demanded 
as the assessment for that house for the present year. The 
house was by no means a first-rate house. The assessment 
on it for a church rate was two shillings in the pound of 
the value of the property. It is not marvelous that the 
people are calling for reform and the correction of abuses. 
An earnest resistance is being made in many places to 
the collection of church rates. A refusal to pay is often 
made, and when the property is seized, combinations are 
formed to prevent persons from bidding for it at the public 
sale. 

At the house above referred to a singular mode was 
resorted to. An image of a bishop in his canonicals, large 
as life, was set in a window; at his right hand, and arm-in- 
arm with it, old Satan, a hideous figure, with his cloven 
foot and horns. Under the bishop was written in large 
letters, “ Spiritual Broker;” at the bishop’s left was 
another figure, and under it written, “Temporal Broker,” 
and between them, “Props of the Church.” The man 
had refused to pay the church rates ; they had seized his 
property, and he had caricatured them. The first day I 
walked the streets in London I saw crowds gazing at those 
images ; they are still in the window, and there the man 


io6 


MEMOIR OF 


declares they shall be until they cease to force him to pay 
church rates. 

Is it not strange that churchmen do not see, in thus 
forcing payment from an unwilling people, they are not 
only alienating the people from them, but creating strong 
prejudices against religion itself? There appears to be a 
kind of infatuation on the minds of the leading part of the 
established clergy. They seem resolved to yield nothing. 
They close their eyes to the progress of things, they over- 
look public sentiment, and appear determined to retain or 
lose all. 

While their folly is manifest, I know not that it may 
not in the long run be all for the best. It is very obvious 
that the more the matter is discussed, the more satisfied 
are the reformers that there must be a separation of the 
church and state. Not long since the Dissenters limited 
their demands to a freedom from church rates, and a few 
disabilities under which they labored. Had these been 
granted, and means taken to conciliate Dissenters, it may 
be that the fierce attack now made on the establishment 
might have been avoided. This was not done. Now the 
great body of Dissenters seem to be fast coming, or I may 
say have come, to a fixed opinion that nothing ought, that 
nothing will, that nothing shall satisfy them but a total 
separation of the church and state. 

I was rather surprised to find that the number of news- 
papers in circulation is small compared with what we have 
in the United States. A common practice is to be fur- 
nished each day, at such hour as you choose, with a paper 
for an hour, more or less, as you may bargain for ; at the 
end of the time the newsboy calls for the paper and takes 
it to some other person. The price of newspapers is high, 
owing to the duty on the paper before it is printed. For 
a sheet, which when printed is sold at seven pence, the 


J. D. PAXTON ; D.D. 


107 


printer must pay rather above three pence to government 
for the stamp, making it lawful to use it. It ought, how- 
ever, to be observed that there is no postage on stamped 
papers in England. They go free. 

Foreign papers are charged as letters, which is so high 
as almost to amount to a prohibition. Not knowing this, 
many persons send packages of papers, pamphlets, etc. to 
acquaintances in this country by persons coming over ; on 
arriving, they put them in the post-office, and such is the 
cost of postage that they are seldom taken out. The same 
reasons which make newspapers so dear produce a similar 
effect in the case of books. To protect and encourage 
their own manufacture, they are careful to exclude our 
books ; the duty on them is heavy. The few volumes of 
religious books that I had put in my trunk for my own use 
were charged twenty-five cents per pound, English books 
passed free; but all of American prints even to a pocket 
Bible, were weighed and paid dutjc. 

Letters and papers designed for Europe ought to be paid 
for at the port where they are shipped. Without this they 
will not be sent from the United States. When paid for 
they will be shipped. But letters to the Continent, if sent 
to England, as they often are by travelers, have another 
difficulty. If put in the post-office at Liverpool or London, 
the postage through England must be paid, or they will 
not be sent. On its being paid to Dover, where letters are 
shipped for the Continent, they will be forwarded, but not 
otherwise. 

And there is a law imposing a fine of £5 on those who 
convey letters through England, and thus deprive the 
government of what it would gain by their being carried 
by post. It is at a hazard that a man carries sealed letters. 
He may not have his person searched unless suspicions 
arise, but his trunk is searched by the custom-house officers. 


io8 


MEMOIR OF 


It were well if these facts were more generally known. It 
would prevent some embarrassment. Although I made 
inquiries several times, I could not ascertain the real state 
of the case until I passed through the hands of the custom- 
house officers and learned some of their regulations. 

I have not heard many of those who pass for popular 
preachers in England. I have heard a number that are 
said to possess a very good standing for speaking talents. 
I have not been struck with anything as much different 
from what I have often heard on our own side of the 
water. While listening to some, I have thought there was 
rather too much display, not such close work as in America; 
not preaching at people, but before them. I did not expect 
to find the gowns and the bands in as general use among 
Dissenters as I find they are. With one exception, all the 
sermons I have heard were from men thus habited. 

I may add, the love of gowns is not confined to the 
clergy. In making a tour through the half dozen courts in 
session at Westminster, I could not but notice that all the 
judges and lawyers were in gowns and wigs, most of them 
powdered ; of this, however, the judges had most on their 
wigs, and these' were of a peculiar make and much larger 
size. As there is a peculiar gown for a bishop and another 
for a priest, so there is a peculiar gown and wig for a judge 
and another for a lawyer. There may be some advantages 
in such forms and customs, but a man, while engaged in 
official duty, ought not to appear in a habit so wholly dif- 
ferent from other men as to seem almost ludicrous, and be 
hardly known to his every-day friends. The spirit of reform 
will no doubt in time set aside many of these old and 
monkish customs, which often in this country present such 
odd and grotesque mixtures of old with new, in the general 
costume of society. 

Lord Brougham is well represented in some of his like- 


J. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


log 


nesses. His court was much crowded, as he was about to 
retire with the Whig ministry. The people showed a wish 
ta see him in such a crisis of his affairs. 

The climate of England did not agree with me. I was 
prevented by indisposition from gaining much of the in- 
formation I desired pertaining to this interesting country. 
This induced me to hasten my departure for Paris. Pro- 
fessor M. Hopkins bears me company. I have had much 
pleasant intercourse with brethren of different denomina- 
tions ; have met with them in their societies, and have 
received from them polite attentions; at the meeting of 
the London Missionary Society, I was introduced by Dr. 
Reed to about thirty members. They have extended to 
me the hand of Christian fellowship, and I have preached 
in a few of their pulpits. I shall cherish the recollection 
of the social visits to those families to which I was admit- 
ted, and shall be grateful for the hospitality and kindness 
of which I was the recipient. 

The road from London to Dover is over a somewhat 
rolling country, but still it is good, some long stretches of 
it were within sight of the Thames, which is a smaller 
stream than I had supposed it to be. After being accus- 
tomed to the great rivers of America, all the streams I 
have seen on this side of the Atlantic have a diminutive 
appearance. The channel of the Thames, however, must 
be deep, compared with the width of the stream, or ships 
of the size seen in it could not find water to swim in. 

In the neighborhood of Gravesend the Thames for 
many miles was almost covered with vessels, on their way 
to London, coming in from sea. They had been detained 
below by adverse winds ; the wind had now changed, and 
the channel of the river could be traced for miles by the 
white canvas that floated in the air. 

The chalk strata of England must be many hundred feet 
io 


no 


MEMOIR OF 


thick, as the Cliffs of Dover show. I suppose the hills can- 
not be less than from five to seven hundred feet, and the 
greater part of this elevation appears to be a mass of chalk. 
The side next the sea is in many places precipitous and des- 
titute of vegetation, and presents a white, snowy appearance 
to the eye. There are forts on the heights on both sides of 
Dover ; this being the narrowest part of the strait, and when 
the weather is clear in sight of France, the more care has 
been used to have it well defended. In one of the forts 
is the famous cannon known by the name of Queen Bess' s 
pocket-piece , which, it is commonly reported, will throw a 
ball to Calais. A soldier whom we met on the green said 
that report was not true, but that the gun was one of great 
power. 

I examined the character of the chalk at a bank where 
much had been dug out and removed, — it was excellent. 
Before we reached Dover we had seen in many places im- 
mense excavations made by removing the chalk for various 
purposes, and also kilns, for burning it into lime, in opera- 
tion. The same chalk strata appears on the other side of 
the channel and spreads -to some extent on the continent. 
I do not recollect of seeing or hearing of its appearing, in 
any portions worth mentioning, in any part of North 
America. 

On our landing at Calais we were harassed not a little by 
porters, conductors, and that sort of folks, eager to serve 
us. With some effort we got clear of all but one, who 
could speak English. He took us to the office where our 
passports were examined, had our baggage examined at the 
custom-house, and aided in engaging seats in the diligence 
for Paris. 

A somewhat singular custom prevails both at Dover and 
Calais. The tide rises high in the strait, and at times 
makes it needful to use a ladder in getting to and from the 


y. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


ill 


vessel in which they cross. Instead of the vessel’s having 
a short ladder for its own use, a man at the wharf keeps 
one, and every passenger has to pay for its use, whether he 
needs it or not. This is but one of the “thousand and 
one” ways in which they contrive to earn money from 
those who travel. 

We were two nights, one day, and part of another in 
coming from Calais to Paris. The face of the country is 
almost a dead level, with few trees, small and scattering. 
Occasionally a spot of timbered land may be seen, but 
mostly of a small and useless kind of growth. No fences 
or hedges — no visible marks of division to separate the dif- 
ferent lots of ground. In England fences are seldom seen; 
but their place is supplied by hedges and ditches, some- 
times dividing the whole face of the country in lots of from 
two and three to five and seven acres, and the size of the 
trees scattered along these hedges and ditches showed that 
they were old divisions which their fathers had made. But 
in France there were few except those natural divisions of 
streams and hills with which man had nothing to do. 
Where there were hills of any steepness, and such as we 
make nothing of plowing over in the United States, they 
were in many cases formed into level plats, one above an- 
other. 

The country generally appears to be under cultivation, 
but of a very imperfect kind. I noticed that most, if not 
all, the plows were of a very old kind, with wheels to sup- 
port the fore part of the beam and regulate the depth of 
the furrow. The tackle of the horses was of a miserable 
sort, — old ropes and strings put together in a nondescript 
manner. 

The people live in villages. Single houses, standing 
separate and in the midst of the land cultivated by its oc- 
cupants, appear not to exist. The animals are kept up and 


1 1 2 


MEMOIR OF 


fed by hand. I saw no cattle, horses, or hogs running 
loose, and but occasionally a flock of sheep, and those uni- 
formly under the care of a shepherd and his dog ; and it 
was amusing to notice the constant vigilance of the dog to 
keep his flock in order. If a sheep lagged behind, or ram- 
bled off to one side, or got too far before, or in any way 
got out of order, in the opinion of the dog, a sudden 
movement toward the offending sheep, and at times a nip 
on the leg, would make it hurry into its place. In short, 
the dog appeared tenfold more interested in keeping the 
flock in order than did his master. From ancient times 
the dog appears to have been used for similar purposes by 
shepherds. Job speaks of “the dogs of his flock,” and 
they were used by him, most likely, not only to protect 
the flock from ravenous beasts, but to aid in keeping and 
managing them. 

Few things struck me more forcibly than the inferior and 
miserable appearance of the dwellings, especially in the 
small towns and villages. The walls are usually of mud, 
supported by a rude frame of wood, the roof of tile or 
thatch. The rise from the ground to the end of the 
thatch is about eight feet. The door low, the windows 
irregular, often nothing more than a hole left or made in 
the wall, — at best but a few lights of glass. The yard ex- 
hibiting no taste or neatness, often a mud-hole; for not 
unfrequently the hole from which the mud was taken for 
the walls of the house is seen not far from the door, full of 
water, and a place of filth. The floors of the houses earth 
or tiles. As to neat, tasty gardens as an appendage to 
the cottages, I saw none to be compared with those every- 
where to be seen in Britain and the United States. In the 
larger towns the buildings are of a better order ; the houses 
often large and of good materials. As to their interior 
fitting up, I had not an opportunity of judging, except 


y. D. PAXTON ; D.D. 


ll 3 

from a few specimens of hotels where we stopped. Several 
of these were respectable, but none could be compared, as 
to neatness and comfort, with English and American pub- 
lic houses of equal standing. 

The women in the country and small towns wore a small 
white cap, other parts of dress not differing much from 
what is common with us. The men also wore caps of 
woolen or cotton, and over their other garments a light- 
blue frock, very similar in make to a common shirt without 
a collar. I refer to the common people. In the larger 
towns many of the men were dressed as is common with 
us and wore hats, as also the ladies wore bonnets. 

The number of beggars that gathered around us at many 
of our stopping-places was distressing. It really seemed 
as if half the people were beggars ; or rather, as if begging 
was a thing so common that any and every one, when they 
had an opportunity, made trial whether or not they could 
do something in that way. Young and old, men and 
women, would surround us and almost deafen us with their 
clamor. 

The French diligence is a coarse, unsightly vehicle, and 
has usually three apartments. The coupe, a small room 
capable of holding three persons; this has windows in 
front and at the sides. A seat in the coupe commands the 
highest price. The body of the carriage has windows at 
the sides, and the back part differs not much from the 
middle. In addition to these places, two or three persons 
may sit on a seat over the driver by the conductor. The 
baggage is chiefly placed on the top, covered with a large 
apron that extends forward, supported by the trunks or 
other fixtures, so as to afford protection against the weather 
to the conductor and those who may sit with him above. 
The drivers were changed frequently on the route, but the 


MEMOIR OF 


114 

conductor, who had the charge of all, kept with us to 
Paris. 

The diligence is drawn by four and sometimes six 
horses; in the latter case four are put abreast in front. 
They were of a very inferior kind, often poor, and not 
unfrequently looked as if they had never been cleaned or 
trimmed — manes, tails, and fetlocks overgrown and un- 
combed. Nor was the harness calculated to make amends 
for the plight of the cattle. The bridles and traces often 
ropes fastened with strings ; the hames of board-like pieces 
and huge projections, with unsightly covers of leather, 
hide, or cloth. In short, we were not a little amused at 
the uncouth appearance of the whole affair. 

The French mode of lighting the streets is by suspend- 
ing lamps over the middle of the street by a cord fastened 
to the houses on both sides, or posts put up for that pur- 
pose. The rope is placed at such a height as to raise the 
lamps above carriages that may pass the street. 

Few things strike an American more than the perpetual 
occurrence of the military badge wherever he may go. He 
will hardly walk a hundred yards in any direction in Paris 
without passing a sentinel. In a morning’s walk of half 
an hour he will probably see half a dozen companies of 
soldiers marching to and from their places of review or 
military exercise. Paris is like a garrisoned town. There 
are sixty — some say eighty or a hundred — thousand sol- 
diers in or near it. It is not easy, especially for a stran- 
ger, to get exact information on such points. The expense 
of such military establishments must be great, and their 
corrupting influence on society most baneful. 

The following article from Rome, of January 22, 1835, 
deserves notice : 

“By a decree of the Pope, the servant of God, John 
Baptist Rossi, born at Villogia, in the diocese of Gens, in 


y. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


XI 5 

1698, and died at Rome in 1764, has been declared worthy 
of being counted among the blest (of being canonized), he 
having, during life, given a brilliant exhibition of theologi- 
cal and cardinal virtues. The society (Committee of Sacred 
Rites) to whom this matter is intrusted have examined, since 
1823, the history of his life, and the decree of the Pope 
agrees with and confirms their report. Inquiry is to be 
made whether the family of the deceased possess the means 
requisite to pay the expense of his beatification.” 

It would seem that the Pope and his cardinals are still 
adding to the number of saints to be invoked. They seem 
not to find it congenial to their feelings to go at once to 
the Lord Jesus, or to God in Christ. They go to the 
Virgin Mary and to the saints, and when they get tired of 
the old ones, they make new ones. In this case they have 
gone back near a hundred years. John Baptist Rossi died 
seventy years ago ; of course there are none alive who could 
testify from personal knowledge as to his life and conduct. 
It gives a fine opportunity to dress up his life with those 
wonders and marvels that lead an ignorant and super- 
stitious people to give him honors, which they ought to 
give to God. It is worthy of notice, that while they find 
him worthy of beatification, which if it is right should be 
done, and has been deferred too long, still it is doubtful 
whether it may not fail. It must be bought with money ! 
Have the family means to bear the expense? are they 
willing ? One way for the Pope to get money is to sell 
saintships. 

There is reason to believe that the cause of truth is 
making some progress in France. From all I can learn, 
there is an increase of evangelical preachers, more faithful 
and spiritual preaching, and a better attendance on public 
worship. There are more religious publications than 
formerly; a number of valuable English and American 


MEMOIR OF 


116 

works have been translated into French and published ; 
several new French works of considerable merit have lately 
appeared ; more religious papers are circulated ; the Bible 
is more common, and I doubt not more read ; common 
newspapers admit more pieces relative to religion. 

A pious lady told me a few days past, that when she 
came to Paris about fifteen years ago, she wished to pro- 
cure a Bible and to prepare to receive the sacrament. She 
could nowhere find a Bible. Her mother went with her 
to the preacher whose preaching she attended, to see if he 
could aid them in procuring one. He told them he had 
none to spare, as he had but one for his own use. Bibles 
may now be found in a number of the bookstores. 

A Roman Catholic editor of one of the popular news- 
papers, mentioned as his New Year’s gift to his readers, a 
new translation of the Scriptures, which he had given to 
the public, and “ Reasons for the Truth of Christianity,” 
a work in several volumes, exhibiting a view of some of the 
arguments for the truth of the Christian religion. It is in 
part taken from Protestant authors. It may accustom 
Catholics to look at proof and not the say-so of the 
church. 

This awakening of religious feeling is not confined to 
the Protestants, as the fact above stated goes to show. 
There is a much better attendance at the Catholic churches, 
I am told, than there was a few years past. I visited several 
of their churches during the Christmas and New Year 
solemnities and found crowds of people. Possibly this 
awakening interest may be intended for good. While the 
mind is wholly indifferent to all religion, there can be no 
hope for such ; but when the mind is stirred up and begins 
to inquire after God, it may meet with truth, even while 
groping in the darkness of Romanism. In our day the 
vehicles of truth are so many, in so many ways does the 


J. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


117 

truth go abroad, in the book of God, the ministry, tract, 
missionary notice, the journal, the religious, and at times, 
the secular papers, the books of travel, etc., that the mind 
inquiring after truth may, through the good providence of 
God, find it and be saved. 

It is much to be lamented that the Protestants who resort 
to Paris in such considerable numbers do so little to impart 
to the Catholics, with which they mingle, the great leading 
truths of the Protestant faith. It is much more common, 
I fear, for the Protestants to be injured by the errors and 
example of the Catholics than to impart to them the truth 
they profess and the purity they ought to practice. A 
large part of those Protestants who resort here are irreligious 
young men, indifferent about eternal things, and more 
pleased than otherwise to be free from religious restraint. 

I cannot, however, but hope that God is preparing the 
way for a great work to his praise in France, and through 
her, in Europe. There is a spirit of investigation and re- 
search at work here, an activity of intellect, a patient, 
working, untiring spirit, which must produce in all the de- 
partments of science important results. The master-minds 
that lead on this spirit and activity and give it tone are 
most of them far from God, and have not his fear before 
their eyes. Yet I think there is an approximation toward 
truth. All truth leads to truth ; truth in science, truth in 
metaphysics, truth in taste, in morals, and in logic, must 
be favorable to truth in religion. 

The natural sciences are prosecuted here with great 
zeal and great success. The cabinets of minerals and of 
natural history; the collections of plants and objects for 
the study of all parts of natural science, and all depart- 
ments of the arts, are perhaps the most complete anywhere 
to be met with, and all are open and accessible, without 
fee or reward to the learner. 


ii 8 


MEMOIR OF 


It is indeed a striking and most praiseworthy fact that 
these public schools at Paris, at which there are now near 
ten thousand students from all parts of the civilized world, 
are free to all. It is true that a graduating fee is required 
at the school of medicine. But a student may gain all the 
knowledge, attend all the lectures, without graduating. 
The single act of taking a degree does not add to his 
knowledge. For the lectures, for their attendance at the 
hospitals, for access to the cabinets, and various prepara- 
tions, nothing is asked. 

It is a liberal and commendable thing in the govern- 
ment to collect the most learned and talented men in the 
world, to furnish them with apparatus, with all the aids and 
helps needful in their various departments, that they may 
give their instructions free to all who will attend and re- 
ceive them. The expense no doubt is considerable ; but 
how little compared to the expense of an army of “ three 
or four hundred thousand men.” And how much more to 
the honor and credit of the government is the one than 
the other. The one is to create and spread the light of 
science and art, to pour abroad through the land and the 
world the healthful streams of useful knowledge; the 
other, to repress the spirit of freedom, to make a people 
bear quietly the yoke, to prevent them from making their 
own laws, and modeling to their own liking their own gov- 
ernment. 

The day will come, I think, when God will cast the 
salt of his grace into this fountain of science, when those 
departments of truth, now prosecuted with so much care, 
will be consecrated to the Lord. The time and the 
mode in which this will be effected we know not; but 
many parts of God’s word declares a time of a general 
prevalence of religion, and many things in the aspect of 
the world seem strongly to indicate that preparations are 


J. D. PAXTON, jD.D. 


119 

now making, under the directing providence of God, for 
the ushering in of that glorious day. Oh, how often do 
the enemies of God, and those who know Him not, nor 
regard Him, bring to pass, with great labor and toil, his 
purposes of grace and mercy ! They mean not so, but God 
does make them to praise Him. Pharaoh educated Moses, 
who brought Israel out of Egypt ; Paul was educated at 
the feet of Gamaliel ; Luther and Calvin and Knox were 
educated in Catholic schools. Whefi God will work, who 
can hinder? “ My soul, hope thou in God !” 

I visited the Morgue, a house built for the exposure of 
persons who are found dead in Paris and vicinity, whose 
friends and relations are not known. They "are placed 
there that an opportunity may be had for their friends to 
identify them and have them interred. There was one 
person on the table prepared for the dead. This appeared 
to be a youth. The body was naked, except a small piece 
of cloth laid across the lower parts of the body. There 
were no marks of violence on the body. It was most likely 
a suicide by drowning. Suicides have been fearfully com- 
mon here. The want of religious principle, the want of 
faith in the great truths of revelation, is the secret cause of 
these suicides, as well as of the many and various crimes 
which abound in this wicked place. Those who have no 
belief in a future state, no faith in a judgment to come, are 
deprived of a great restraint against the allurements of vice ; 
and the same want of restraint, leaves them, when crossed 
or disappointed, exposed to the temptation to make way 
with themselves. The faith and hopes of the gospel are 
profitable for all things in this life and in that which is to 
come. 

Much interest has been taken, in Parisian circles, in the 
great political conquest going on in England. While 
Louis Philippe is suspected of leaning toward the meas- 


120 


MEMOIR OF 


ures of the legitimates, and while his measures have re- 
tarded the progress of liberal opinions and liberal institu- 
tions in France, it is very manifest that the great body of the 
French people are strongly disposed toward free institu- 
tions. It may well be doubted whether they are prepared 
at present to enjoy all they want. The news has reached 
Paris, by telegraph, that the reformers have succeeded in 
putting a reformer in the speaker’s chair in England. The 
same paper which announces this victory of the reformers, 
and consequent expected change of the ministry, announces 
a change as certain in the French ministry. They have 
been in the minority several times lately in the chamber of 
deputies, and it is said their dissolution is decided on and 
has been announced to the chamber. Louis Philippe is far 
from being popular in France; his situation is rather deli- 
cate. The French are fond of change, and are easily 
thrown into agitation. Unless he falls in more with the 
spirit of the age, and gives his countenance more fully to 
the friends of freedom and free institutions, he may sooner 
than he is aware of find himself treated as was his prede- 
cessor. 

Many things indicate that great changes must before long 
take place in Europe. There is going abroad through the 
mass of the community an increase of knowledge as to 
their civil, religious, and social rights; there are increas- 
ing mediums of intelligence, there is a public moral senti- 
ment forming, that must change, and transform, and new- 
model, to a great extent, very many of the customs and 
institutions of Europe. The question of the late change 
in the British ministry is more than a contest between two 
political parties in England, — it involves the great princi- 
ple of reform; it bears directly on the question of the 
progress of freedom and free institutions at home and 
abroad. It is thus viewed in Europe, not only by those in 


y. D. PAXTON ; D.D. 


121 


power, but by an extensive class of reading, thinking, in- 
telligent people. Every new position taken by the oppo- 
site parties is noticed ; every success or defeat spreads, as 
on the wings of the wind, to every corner of Europe. 
But above all do the French take a deep interest in this 
matter. It makes an important item in their daily and 
weekly papers, and is discussed more or less in most cir- 
cles. There is observable, also, an increasing regard paid 
to what may be called public opinion, and the daily press 
is serving more and more the purpose of embodying, 
directing, and causing it to bear on all the great interests 
of society. 

Those governments that are most opposed to the pro- 
gress of freedom and popular institutions, while they may 
do much to retard, cannot wholly stop it. For instance, 
they are obliged to inform themselves of what is going on 
in other countries. In so doing, an increasing number 
will gain information also that will affect their views and 
feelings, remove old prejudices, and prepare the mind for 
reform in various respects. In a thousand ways, changes 
of this kind are taking place in Europe, and although, like 
the progress of the sun upon the dial-plate, it may at any 
one point of time be imperceptible, in a short time the 
movement made will be clearly seen. 

I could but notice a fact, the other day, which is an ex- 
emplification of these remarks. In some of the Roman 
States, where ecclesiastical control has long extended to 
almost everything, courts composed mainly , if not wholly, 
of laymen, have been established in place of ecclesiastics, 
as heretofore. It is said they work well. 

It may be that it is in this gradual way that the baleful 
system of popery is to be destroyed, — a gradual discovery 
of the folly and absurdity of the system, while the great 


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truths of revelation, and the simple but beautiful worship 
of the New Testament, will be everywhere understood and 
received. It is of this system, as I suppose, mention is 
made in II. Thessalonians : “Whom the Lord shall con- 
sume with the spirit of his mouth, and destroy with the 
brightness of his coming.” A comparison of this passage 
with Isaiah, xi. 14, not to mention other texts, would seem 
to show that the truths of revelation are the instruments 
with which this destruction will mainly.be effected. Those 
who hold to the personal reign of Christ on earth, and his 
sudden appearance for that purpose, would interpret his 
coming here as sudden. But those who do not find in the 
Bible what justifies the opinion of the personal reign, think 
it a more reasonable interpretation to consider ‘ ‘ his com- 
ing” here as expressing the millennium, and its “bright- 
ness” as referring to that clear display and bright manifes- 
tation of divine truth of which, in part, it will consist. 

It is possible that I 'may be mistaken in thinking that in 
the evangelical churches the gospel is now better under- 
stood and better preached — that is, with more practical 
effect — than at any period since the age of the apostles. I 
mistake if it be not now understood and preached more 
as the apostles understood and preached it than it was at 
the Reformation. The great effort then was to oppose cer- 
tain errors, — now, to make truth tell on the heart and con- 
science, so as to convert and save the soul. 

It is painful to see that, notwithstanding all the light of 
the nineteenth century, rights of conscience should be so lit- 
tle understood that religious persecutions should take place, 
even among Protestants. The government of Prussia has, 
from the period of the Reformation, been remarkable for 
the religious freedom allowed in its dominions ; a change 
of conduct marks the present time. Formerly it gave an 
asylum to those who were persecuted for conscience’ sake ; 


J. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


123 


now its own subjects, in some cases, are so oppressed that 
they are seeking an asylum in other lands. 

In Prussia the king is absolute, and claims, in some sort, 
to be the head of the church. Within a few years past he 
has set his heart on uniting the Lutherans and other re 
formed branches of the church. To effect this, with the 
aid of a few complying ministers, he has new-modeled the 
old forms of religious rites observed by; the several branches 
of the church, compiled of them one formula, one confes- 
sion of faith, taking care to increase the power of the king 
in all ecclesiastical matters, and to oblige the pastors to 
come under new and special engagements to conform in all 
things to the will of the king. 

This new system of faith and observances was promulged 
for general acceptance by all sects, was used in the royal 
chapels, and persuasions and rewards resorted to, to induce 
the leading pastors and people to accept it. After awhile 
another step was taken, — it was enjoined. And now a fur- 
ther advance is being made, — pastors who refuse to comply 
are separated from their people, and other ministers forced 
on them. The military is used to oblige people to receive 
such preachers as the king approves. There can be but 
little doubt that the measure is in part a political one ; the 
object is to strengthen the power of the crown. 

It is but one of the many movements of the falsely so- 
called holy alliance to strengthen their power, to hold 
back the spirit of liberty abroad in the world, and keep 
their people under the yoke. What the result of this per- 
secution in Prussia may be time will show. It is calling 
public attention. It is exhibiting another proof of the 
evils of having any connection between church and state. 
It will increase the number of those who doubt the expe- 
diency of all such connections ; it may lead more directly 
than can now be known to a spirit of liberty in Prussia, — 


124 


MEMOIR OF 


religious liberty has a connection with civil liberty. The 
contest now going on for it will most likely lead »those en- 
gaged in it to think more of the necessity of having some 
security against the oppressions of arbitrary power than 
they may heretofore have done. Old, oppressive systems 
must give way, both in church and state, and God often 
uses the vices and follies of those in power to bring about 
their own punishment. 

Paris, alas ! has no Sabbath to the Lord. From all I can 
learn, it is almost wholly neglected, or profaned. On the 
Sabbaths I have spent here I have walked some distance 
through the city to reach the churches at which I wor- 
shiped, and I found everywhere the shops open and labor 
of all kinds going on. A few were closed, but the greater 
part were open. A chief difference that I noticed was 
that a much larger portion of well-dressed people were on 
the walks and public grounds, whose object appeared not 
business but pleasure. The gardens and public walks, sev- 
eral of which I had to pass, were full of such persons, of 
both sexes and all ages. In the morning it was thus ; in 
the middle of the day, and at nightfall, as I returned from 
afternoon service, it was the same. 

From several friends of the cause of Christ I have 
learned that there are six or seven preachers in Paris who 
preach Christ and him crucified. Their congregations are 
usually small. There are a few who mourn over the sins of 
the place and pour out their supplications to God for his 
grace and salvation to be sent to this people. 

It is certainly a somewhat interesting fact that Paris, 
whose schools, as schools of science, are the first in the 
world, and at this time the most free and most frequented, 
should have so far thrown off the trammels of Romanism 
as to allow a free use of all the means of promoting reli- 
gion which marks the present time. It is true that Paris 


J. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


I2 5 

and France, in discarding Romanism, have, to a great ex- 
tent, discarded all religion, — they knew of none other. 
But such is our make that no people can be long without a 
religion ; we ought, then, to seize the present opportunity, 
and give to France the word of God. 

An acquaintance, whom I happened to meet, proposed 
to take me to a religious meeting of which I had not heard. 
I accepted with pleasure the kind olfer. It is a Wednesday 
afternoon meeting, held in a large school-room, and under 
the direction of an evangelical and zealous Episcopal clergy- 
man. Besides singing and prayer, a chapter was read in 
the New Testament, and comments made upon it. Each 
person had his Bible, and asked questions, or made such 
suggestions and remarks as he saw proper. The meeting 
was well attended, a number of gentlemen and ladies, most 
of them apparently persons of respectable standing. Sev- 
eral clergymen of other denominations were present and 
took part in the exercises. Many of the remarks made on 
various passages were practical, and showed a knowledge 
of experimental religion and a zeal for its promotion in the 
world. It was an interesting meeting. It is of good 
promise to see meetings of this kind held in such regard in 
France. The Americans "have a prayer-meeting on Satur- 
day night, and I hear there are other meetings of this kind 
in Paris. 

Hearing that a sermon would be preached at one of the 
Episcopal churches for the benefit of a charity school, I 
attended, and was much gratified with the appearance of 
the scholars and the plan of the school as explained by the 
preacher. His appeal in its behalf was plain, practical, 
and full of Christian sentiment. The scholars are taken, 
chiefly, from the low and poorer classes; and while the 
fundamental truths of the gospel are carefully imprinted 
on the minds of the pupils, and they are taught to regard 


126 


MEMOIR OF 


the Scriptures as the revelation of our Lord and Saviour 
Jesus Christ, and the only sure guide to happiness here, 
and eternal life hereafter, sectarianism is carefully avoided. 
The only religious book allowed as a reading book is the 
Bible. The managers have cause to thank God and take 
courage. The special object of the school was for the 
benefit of youth, one or both parents of whom are British 
subjects. 

The Monthly Concert of Prayer for Missions is observed 
in this city. I found the oratoire well filled with an at- 
tentive and apparently interested audience. The people 
continued to come while the meeting progressed, until the 
room and passages were crowded ; several prayers were 
offered, and a short address made by Rev. Pyt, a Swiss 
pastor settled in Paris. Grand Pierre gave a short account 
of the state and progress of the work at several mission 
stations, Surinam, South America, Africa, and Zealand. 
He noticed with interest the increasing number of mission- 
aries going out of the United States, specifying the number 
and destination of some late companies. Grand Pierre 
is at the head of the missionary institution at Paris. He 
had taken some pains to collect and digest the information 
which he imparted. A collection was taken up in aid of 
missions. 

In reading the will of Louis XVI., the other day, I was 
a good deal struck with the following passage. It was 
written while in prison, and shortly before his death. 

‘ ‘ I pray God to pardon all my sins, which I have en- 
deavored scrupulously to recollect, to express my detesta- 
tion of them, and humiliate myself in his presence. De- 
prived of the assistance of a Catholic priest , I entreat of 
God to receive the confession , which I have made to him, 
and particularly my profound repentance of having signed 
my name, although strongly against my will, to instru- 


y. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


127 


ments, which may be contrary to the faith and discipline 
of the Catholic Church, to which, in my heart, I continued 
sincerely attached. I pray God to receive my firm resolu- 
tion should He grant my life, to avail myself, as soon as I 
can, of the ministry of a Catholic priest, to confess all my 
sins, and receive the sacrament of repentance.” 

It would seem from this passage that he had not pre- 
ferred going at once to God to make his confession. He 
makes an apology, or asks pardon of God for so doing. 
Could he have obtained a priest he would have confessed 
to him, and not have confessed directly to God ! Yea, he 
engages that if God spares him and gives him an oppor- 
tunity, he will make a particular confession of all his sins 
to the priest. 

That Louis was sincere we have no reason to doubt, and 
we know that he was trained up under men of the first 
standing in the Catholic Church. He had such men 
always at his court. I do not say first for piety or purity 
of life, but men who stood high in that church, and well 
understood their system of religion. And what was the 
impression which their teaching had made on the mind of 
the king? Why, that in the great matters of repentance 
and forgiveness, the great matter of salvation, he was to 
do mainly with the priest ! To him, and not to God, he 
was to confess ! from him, and not from God, he was to 
obtain pardon and assurance of salvation ! 

This is but one of many facts, which may be met with 
wherever Catholics are found, going to prove, beyond all 
doubt, that their system does not lead to God, but leads 
souls to rest on something else ; does substitute forms and 
services of human device, for which we have no authority 
in the word of God, for that pure and spiritual worship, 
for that simple reliance on Christ and obedience to his 
commandments so plainly and earnestly enjoined in the 


128 


MEMOIR OF 


word of God. Their priests “make the word of God of 
none effect through their traditions.” 

There is, no. doubt, in France, particularly in Paris, 
much intelligence, much learning, much science, and yet 
a person meets with many things that show a great want of 
practical knowledge, a great ignorance or neglect of modern 
improvement. With much of the theory of science, they 
appear to me to be much behind in the practical applica- 
tion of it. Their chimneys, I am told, very generally 
smoke from bad construction ; their streets are miserably 
dirty, and to a great extent are destitute of sidewalks; 
carriages, horses, and footmen, all mingling together in 
the middle of the street, to the no small inconvenience of 
each other. 

“A widow, about forty years of age, who has no chil- 
dren, and who has an income of 50,000 francs a year, 
wishes to unite herself with a person who frequents good 
society, etc. 

“Paris, March 9th, 1835.” 

Notices of the above description are often seen in French 
papers. It would, no doubt, excite no little mirth and 
curiosity were such articles to appear in the American 
papers. I hope the time will not soon come when such 
customs shall prevail in the United States. They are com- 
mon things in Paris, they may be seen almost every week ; 
they are in fact so common as to excite little notice, ex- 
cept with those especially interested, or strangers like my- 
self, who have not been accustomed to see ladies advertise 
for husbands. 

What is called the Carnival has just closed. It com- 
menced early in January. It is a period of five or six 
weeks that precedes Lent, a period of forty days, in which, 


J. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


129 


according to the Romish Church, no meat ought to be 
eaten. The carnival is a time of more especial indulgence, 
in which to make amends beforehand for the self-denial 
of the Lent period ; a more free indulgence than usual is 
given to animal gratifications : parties, amusements, 
masked balls, — the very place, I am told, for intrigue and 
vice, — are frequent, and as the carnival comes to an end 
become more common, and last most of the night. And 
what adds to the evil of the thing is, that the Sabbath 
night is selected more than any other for these amuse- 
ments. Indeed, the Sabbath is the great day for amusement 
in Paris. The libraries, the museums, the picture galleries, 
the parades, the play of the fountains, and above all, the 
theaters, are sure to be opened on the Sabbath. 

The day on which the carnival closed was, however, 
marked by a peculiar display, or rather, folly. An ox, 
which had been in keeping for this purpose, was dressed 
out in ribbons and paraded through some of the principal 
streets, taken to the palace, and to the hotels of the prin- 
cipal foreign ambassadors, after which it was killed ; it was 
a great matter to get a part of it to eat on this last day, 
that it was orthodox to eat meat before Lent. 

About 12 o’clock the people began to assemble on the 
Boulevards; against 4 p.m. the crowd was tremendous, and 
it was curious to see their movements. They formed lines 
of march ; those on foot moved at the sides, those on horse- 
back or in carriages in the middle. But these again were 
divided into two lines. Those going east formed a line on 
the right, while those going to the west formed a line facing 
the other way. In all directions the military were to be 
seen, employed in keeping the people in place. 

Among the people thus assembled were a good many in 
masks, in all sorts of odd and whimsical dresses ; old Satan 
himself had many personifications, and really, for the ugly , 


130 


MEMOIR OF 


he was, in some cases, I should think, equaled, if not out- 
done. Many open carriages passed full of persons in the 
most odd and fantastic dresses that can be conceived : men 
dressed as animals, — whom they imitated, — bears, dogs, 
etc. This folly was bad enough, but it was not the worst 
part of the exhibition. Some very obscene things took 
place, I was informed. I did not see them. I soon grew 
tired of the folly and returned to my lodgings. 

Lent is an important festival in the Papal Church, and 
one that characterizes that church as the antichrist, . the 
man of sin, the apostate church. It is one of the character- 
istics, that it would forbid to marry and command to abstain 
from meats. The priests are not allowed to marry, and the 
observance of Lent is a matter specially enjoined in that 
church. It is true, that it is not difficult to obtain the 
privilege of eating meat during Lent ; but still the rule of 
the church is to forbid it. The reasons for and against 
the observance is another thing ; what we notice and mark 
is the fact, that prophecy foretold a great apostacy in the 
church, and gave various characteristics of that apostacy, 
and among other things, that the apostate power would 
forbid to marry and would command to abstain from meats. 
Now, we have in the celibacy of the clergy, monks, and 
nuns, in the fasts, and especially in the enjoined Lent, 
a striking fulfillment of that prophecy. It is in fact a plain 
and literal fulfillment. 

I readily admit that the bare prescription of Lent is not, 
taken separately, the worst thing that could be done ; 
there are worse things, I apprehend, in the Papal Church : 
the worship of images may be worse, the worship of Mary, 
and the invocation of saints, may be worse, the withholding 
God’s word from the people may be worse. Still, Lent 
and the celibacy of the clergy are facts that are most clear 
and decisive in showing that the Papal Church is the apos- 


J. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


I3i 

tate, the antichrist. Strange that the reading and think- 
ing members of that church can be blind to so clear and 
distinct marks of him who usurps God’s place ! 

A pious Protestant gentleman informed me two days 
ago, that a Roman Catholic had just applied to him for 
some good religious book, from which he might learn what 
he must do to be. saved; and as a reason for applying to 
him, made in substance the following statement : Feeling 
that he ought to pay more attention to religion than he 
had done, he applied to a priest to get some directions 
and instructions ; among other things, he told the priest 
that his age, and with his habits, he could not do with- 
out the use of meat, as was required during Lent. The 
priest told him that if he would apply to the bishop, the 
bishop would give him leave to eat meat, and added, that 
if he could not see the bishop, that the cure of the parish 
would give him leave, or in case of not meeting him, that 
he could get liberty to eat meat from the sexton. 

This information — that even the sexton could set aside 
an important law of the church ; that he could get permis- 
sion from a sexton to do what was forbidden — set him to 
thinking, and the result was he lost confidence in his 
church, and applied to a Protestant for a book to teach 
him the whole matter of his duty to God. Thus it is that 
the errors of the church may, if the Lord is pleased to 
order it, be made to work their own cure, — be made to 
open the eyes of those who have long been held in 
blindness. 

While we have reason to deplore the fatal errors and 
lamentable ignorance of the great body of the Roman 
Catholics, we must admit that, as to the mass of the peo- 
ple, particularly those in the lower classes, there is much 
sincerity, and, we will add, much devotion. It does not 
follow that they are holy, or will be saved. The Pharisees 


T 3 2 


MEMOIR OF 


were devout — many pagans are devout; there is a false 
devotion — a devotion without holiness. 

Every large town, it may be, has some things which will 
strike the attention of a visitor as peculiar. Among the 
“little things” that are noticeable in Paris, maybe men- 
tioned the eating-houses, restaurants, coffee-houses, bread- 
shops, refectories, etc. The number is immense — enough, 
one would think, to supply the whole population. At 
almost all hours of the day you see persons, mostly women, 
carrying bread about, often in their arms, but usually in 
baskets. Women, indeed, partake largely in the lighter 
porterage of the place ; you are constantly meeting them 
with baskets or other burdens on their backs, and, for the 
most part, bareheaded, except a small white cotton cap. 

Another employment in which the women engage is that 
of sweeping the streets. The streets are often miserably 
dirty; few, if any, of the houses have back yards or gar- 
dens; all kinds of filth is thrown into the street. To prevent 
them from becoming impassable, persons are employed to 
sweep up the filth and remove it ; you may see dozens of 
persons, men, women, and children, thus employed. 

But, besides this general cleaning, an individual, a 
woman as often as a man, takes a position at some cross- 
street, where dirt is apt to accumulate, and employs him- 
self in sweeping it, and, in way of payment, begs a sou 
from every passer-by. The employment is certainly a 
humble one, and yet some of them find it a profitable 
business; and in many cases the condition of the streets 
would be very unpleasant but for this voluntary labor. 

In addition to the innumerable shops which are every- 
where to be seen, there are a multitude of out-door shops. 
Along the side of the streets, against the walls, on the 
quays and bridges, you see continually persons with some- 
thing to sell. A table before them, it may be, contains 


J. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


133 


the articles, or a small set of movable shelves set against 
the wall, or when the wall is low, as is the case on the 
quays, the top of the wall is covered with their vendibles. 
Second-hand books are offered in this way in great num- 
bers. Another class move about with their goods in a little 
wagon or cart, or on a frame-work which they carry, or in 
baskets or packs. Not content with exhibiting their mer- 
chandise, they often cry it, sometimes to your no small 
annoyance. 

From aH I can learn, thieving is much less common in 
Paris than in London ; and the way in which things are 
left exposed on their stalls seems to indicate a great degree 
of confidence in the public honesty. 

Among the personages who are to be met with in the 
streets, and on the quays and bridges, are the shoe-blacks. 
You may see half a dozen at a time, each with a block be- 
fore him, about a foot high, his blacking and brushes in 
hand, waiting for or soliciting employment. From time 
to time you will see a person stop, put up one foot on the 
block, the shoe or boot of which will be blacked in a min- 
ute, without being drawn ; the other is treated in the same 
manner, a sou or two being paid for the service. 

Wooden shoes are, to a great extent, worn by the lower 
classes, especially by the boys and girls. These shoes, of 
course, do not fit the feet close like leather shoes, and, in 
order to keep the shoe from coming off at each step, a 
peculiar way of lifting and moving the foot along is used, 
and the shoe often touches the ground more or less in the 
process; the wood coming in contact with the pavement 
makes a singular clattering noise. 

It is not the Parisian plan to build a house for the ac- 
commodation of a single family ; the calculation is to ac- 
commodate from six to ten, and often a greater number of 
families. A set of buildings is put up in the form of a 


12 


134 


MEMOIR OF 


square, an oblong, or a parallelogram, often with an open 
court, sometimes several such courts, inclosed. An arch- 
way, large enough for a carriage to pass, is made to this 
court, with large folding-doors. Close to this door, within, 
is a small lodge for a porter, whose business it is to keep 
the gate and know who passes in and out. 

The several parts of the large building are divided into 
sets of rooms ; doors leading to the chief parts open into 
the court; flights of stairs run up, and from those stairs 
access is given to the rooms in the several stories. The 
houses are four and five stories high. The same story may 
have two, three, or more families occupying adjacent sets 
of rooms, while the rooms above and below may be occu- 
pied by an equal number of families, and months may be 
passed by those families without forming any acquaintance 
with each other. 

In those suites of apartments designed for families there 
is usually one arranged for a kitchen, and this is connected 
with a parlor, which serves the purposes of a public room, 
— to sit, to eat, and to receive company in. 

Most of these houses have no garden, and no open 
ground attached to them, except the open court, if it has 
one, which is not always the case. It is your room, or 
the street, or the public walks. This want of gardens and 
grounds attached to their houses, which to us would be a 
great evil, does not appear to be felt so by the French. 
They find a substitute, which makes amends, in their pub- 
lic walks, public gardens, and promenades. 

When the French feel disposed to walk, or take the air, 
or let the sun shine on them, they seem to me to have a 
special fondness to do it in a public place, — the Boulevards, 
the gardens of the Tuileries or Luxembourg, the Place 
Carrousel, or Champs d’Elysees, or Champs de Mars. 
In those places you will, in all kinds of weather, find some 


J. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


*35 


people ; but on a fair afternoon, especially if it be a Sab- 
bath, you would be astonished at the crowds on crowds 
that walk, and prate, and laugh, and indulge in all those 
amusements and follies for which the French are famous. 
Had they private gardens they would not be visited, — they 
are a people that live in public. 

Some of those things that strike the eye of a stranger 
most unpleasantly cannot be described so as to give any just 
idea of them without offending delicacy. Statues, often in 
a state of perfect nudity, are to be seen, not only in the gal- 
leries appropriated to them, but statues of men and women, 
as large as life, without the leaves of mother Eve, are every- 
where to be seen in the gardens and walks and in and about 
the public buildings ; and shops full of them stand open on 
the most public streets at all times. Men and women, old 
and young, arm-in-arm, often pass by them and among 
them, admiring the beauty of the workmanship and the 
perfection of the imitation seen in those naked statues. 

So of the paintings, — there is an apparent fondness for 
naked forms in these as well as in sculpture, and such 
paintings are but too often met with, not only in the pub- 
lic collections, but in the shops and private dwellings. 
These are examined and praised, while parts are exposed 
at which modesty ought to blush. 

The worst is not yet told, nor can be told. Many shops, 
in places much frequented, abound with obscene prints of 
the most offensive character. The French have a fondness 
for caricature, and many of their caricature-prints are 
abominable. Some of the shops and windows most famous 
for these things — for the making of them is a business — 
are almost always surrounded with people looking at them. 

What, it may be asked, is the effect of all this on 
the French people? What moral impression is made by 
their naked images, their paintings and caricatures which 


i 3 6 


MEMOIR OF 


everywhere meet the eyes of the people? Bad, very bad, 
most assuredly ! Let facts speak. Near one-third of the 
children born in Paris last year were illegitimate. Liber- 
tinage prevails to a shameful extent. The French are gen- 
erally admitted to be a polite people ; yet their politeness 
tolerates many things which would not for a moment be 
allowed in genteel society in our own land. 

How these evils are to be corrected is a question of vast 
importance. Religion — the pure religion of the Bible — is 
the salt, and the only salt, that will heal these bitter waters. 
But that religion is here almost as much unknown, to the 
great mass of the community, as any other subject that 
could be named. Still that little leaven is, I trust, at work, 
is spreading, and will, in God’s time, leaven the whole 
mass. But, oh ! many, I fear, very many will, before that 
takes place, go down with all their sins on them, and in all 
their impurity, to the regions of eternal death. May the 
Lord, for Christ’s sake, hasten his work, and save many ! 

It is a fact that the government, instead of correcting 
these moral evils, and seeking to purify public sentiment by 
removing those causes which corrupt it, employs itself not 
a little in increasing these causes, not for the purpose of 
corrupting, but to please and gratify the corrupt taste of 
the people. The government does much to support the 
stage, that fruitful source of moral corruption. The thea- 
ter is an object of special attention. I have been told by 
a resident that at the time the cholera first visited Paris, 
and the panic, for a time, greatly affected the multitude, 
government made an appropriation of forty or fifty thou- 
sand francs, to be applied — in what way ? Why, in giving 
more splendor to the theater, to have more plays, more 
brilliant pieces acted, more brilliant actors employed to 
amuse the people and make them forget that death was 
among them. And during the carnival which is just 


y. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


*37 


closed, and of which I have given some account, many of 
those persons who played the fool for the amusement of 
the people — the men and women who acted so shame- 
lessly — were loose characters, who were paid by the gov- 
ernment for the part they performed. The secret of the 
matter is said by my informants to be this: 

The Parisians, above all people in the world, are fond of 
amusement, of pleasure, of folly in its various forms. They 
must have this ; not to have jt would lead to tumults, to 
mobs, to revolution. They would almost as soon do with- 
out bread, and certainly rather do without meat, than with- 
out amusement. Therefore the theater must be kept open, 
the opera, the concerts, the masked balls, and a thousand 
such things. They engage the attention of the people, 
amuse them, give them something to talk and laugh about. 

To their fondness for pleasure must be added their fond- 
ness for show and parade. To satisfy this may be ascribed, 
in part, many of those splendid collections made by gov- 
ernment, and additions to which are constantly being 
made. The public buildings, gardens, monuments, gal- 
leries, libraries, etc. etc. , perhaps the first in the world, are 
open nearly all the time, free of charge, to all who choose 
to go, some little formalities being required, so as to pre- 
vent inconvenience. 

Indeed, it is surprising how much regard is paid to all 
public works. How much care taken not to deface statues 
and paintings. Monuments, of most delicate workman- 
ship, stand in the public gardens, where thousands walk 
daily, where all sorts of people go when they please, where 
many of them have stood for years, and some of them for 
ages, without exhibiting a scratch, or the semblance of a 
batter. 

I am glad to see an awakening up in Europe of a spirit 
of inquiry as to what the Scriptures teach concerning the 


MEMOIR OF 


138 

forms and discipline of the church; and especially the 
duty of all who hold the great essential truths of the gospel, 
to recognize each other as brethren in the Lord, and be 
mutual helpers, and not counter-workers in his kingdom. 
Dr. Mason, twenty-five years ago, published a most able 
volume on this general subject. Dr. Hall, in England, 
not long after, gave the world a valuable little volume on 
the same subject. I have lately met with another just pub- 
lished by Bost, of Geneva. . Bost is a Baptist, truly evan- 
gelical, a man of learning and talents, who has published 
a number of works. His active efforts to promote evan- 
gelical religion in Geneva exposed him to much persecu- 
tion ; he was harassed and persecuted by the Established 
Church, and made his own defense ; and although the cause 
went against him, the prosecution went rather to the fur- 
therance of the gospel. 

He published an account of his trial and several works 
bearing on the state of the church at Geneva, which have 
had an influence in putting an end to the spirit of perse- 
cution. 

In the pamphlet on the Constitution and Discipline 
of the Church as set forth in the New Testament, he 
takes the position that no special and detailed form is 
given ; that it is therefore allowed to the people of God 
to vary the forms in various situations and circumstances. 
Where no rule is given, the church is free to adopt such 
rule as expediency may require ; this is her freedom, but 
this freedom must not go to set aside any rule that Christ 
has given. Now he has given the law of love, of brotherly 
love ; his people are to love one another, and thus prove 
to the world that they are his disciples. The law given 
them obliges them to receive as brethren all who profess 
his name ; and the apostolic example required but a very 
general confession. The point in which the church is 


y. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


1 39 

left free, is not to encroach on the points for which rules 
are given. 

The above principle is well sustained, and has a deeper 
bearing than some would suppose. It goes, in short, to 
the roots of a great many things in most branches of the 
church. It admits of variety in details; but the spirit 
which must have the control, and as such give Christian 
character, is that of love to all who profess Christ, all who 
follow Him in what he plainly requires, and not those 
only who agree with us in the smaller matters in which we 
are left free to differ. Now, as a matter of fact, nineteen 
out of twenty of the things about which pious men differ 
are things about which Christ has left them free to differ ; 
and yet difference about these points too often leads them 
to violate the law of love, which they are especially and 
repeatedly commanded to observe. 

Paris, April 2, 1835. — I have to-day witnessed an event 
which excited within me feelings of a more than common 
interest, — two missionaries ordained and set apart to the 
work of the gospel among the heathen. One of them was 
a Frenchman, destined to join their laborers in South 
Africa. He will be accompanied to that field by a lay 
assistant, who was publicly received as a lay helper, and as 
such received a charge, and was commended to God by 
the prayers of the associated ministers. 

The other missionary was an American, H. Homes, from 
Boston, who had been in Paris for some time, studying 
Arabic under the celebrated De Sacey. His destination 
is Turkey. He was licensed before leaving America, but 
thought it well to receive full ministerial powers before 
going to those among whom he is to labor. 

What gave an increasing interest to the occasion was 
the fact, that it was so ordered of Providence that there is 
in Paris at present more American preachers than there 


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perhaps ever were before at the same time. Several are 
resident here, connected with the efforts to promote 
evangelical religion in France ; some are delegates to the 
benevolent associations; others have been in Italy, in 
search of health, during the winter, and have reached this 
on their return ; and others still who wish to look a little 
into the state of the church and society in France and 
some other parts of the Continent. These brethren — Pres- 
byterians, Congregationalists, and Baptists, who thus with- 
out concert had met in Paris to the number of eight — were 
kindly and affectionately invited, not only to attend, but 
to assist in the service ; this they did, and with the more 
interest as one of the missionaries was an American. 

The service was introduced by prayer, by one of the 
oldest of the preachers ; a few verses sung ; a sermon was 
then preached by Rev. Grand Pierre, who is at the head 
of their mission institution. The missionaries then made 
each a short address, giving their reasons for offering 
themselves as missionaries. They then, with their hands 
on an open Bible held before them, came under solemn 
engagements on a number of leading principles of minis- 
terial duty, adhering to the word of God, preaching Christ 
and him crucified, and laboring faithfully to extend the 
knowledge of the gospel in Pagan and Mohammedan 
lands, etc. Rev. Pierre then laid his hand on the head 
of one,. and prayed and set him apart, then on the other in 
the same manner. Each of the ministers present followed 
in succession, and laid his hands on the heads of the mis- 
sionaries. When this was gone through, which took some 
time, as there were near twenty ministers present, Grand 
Pierre pronounced them set apart to the word of the 
gospel, and gave them not only the right hand of fellow- 
ship, but the fraternal, or holy kiss, — kissing each other on 
both cheeks. This was again gone through by the min- 


y. D. PAXTON, P.D. 


141 

isters present, excepting that most of the Americans satis- 
fied themselves with giving the hand of fellowship. 

This giving the fraternal kiss struck me as singular. To 
see one man kiss another on both cheeks is so foreign to 
any custom with us that it did not strike me altogether 
pleasantly. With the Europeans it is often practiced. 

The laying on of hands in the ordination differed from 
what takes place in the Presbyterian Church, chiefly in the 
fact, that in the Presbytery all do it together while the 
prayer is offered, — it is one act of the Presbytery as a body 
politic. In the case to-day, while the act was considered 
one, while the prayer publicly offered was one, the laying 
on of hands followed in. succession ; and each minister in 
the act of imposing his hands on the head of the candi- 
date, made a pause, to offer up mentally a short prayer for 
God’s blessing to fit him for the work to which he was set 
apart. All the ministers who assisted in the service were 
at the close requested to enter 4he vestry and sign the 
papers given the missionaries, and a record of the ordina- 
tion to be preserved by the society. 

It was remarked by the Rev. Mr. Wilks, an English- 
man, who has long been laboring in Paris, and whose 
name and labors are w r ell known to many in America, and 
who took part in the ordination, that it was worthy of ob- 
servation, that America, which furnished an asylum to 
many of the Huguenots in the dark days of persecution in 
France, should now have evangelical ministers in Paris, 
assisting in ordaining and setting apart to the ministry 
both French and American missionaries, and in an edifice 
which once belonged to the Roman Catholics. Truly the 
Lord’s ways are not our ways, nor his thoughts our 
thoughts. 

I watched with some interest the countenances of the 
crowd, which filled up every nook and corner of the 


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church, and unless I am much mistaken, the impression 
was a good one. There was more than attention, there 
was interest, a deep and lively interest. In some of the 
more solemn parts of the service I saw the face of one 
and another agitated, the eyes swim with tears, the cover- 
ing of the face with the handkerchief, the sinking of the 
head, — all* showed that the heart was much melted and 
moved at what what was taking place. Nothing having 
been said, that I heard, about a collection, I was not 
aware that one was taken, until I saw them take the bags 
and pour out the money to be counted. The pile spoke 
liberality. I have observed that the concerts of prayer 
excite more than usual interest, an4 have found them the 
most interesting meetings that I have attended in Paris. 

The union of French Protestants of the national church 
with Dissenters and with American Presbyterians, Con- 
gregationalists, Baptists, and French Baptists, in ordain- 
ing men to the gospel ministry, naturally leads one to 
think on the great advance which the cause of Christ would 
make were the sectarian spirit to yield to the pure spirit 
of love to God and Christ and immortal souls. The loss 
of moral means, of moral power, caused by the spirit of 
party, is much greater, I apprehend, than most suppose 
who have not made it a matter of serious and prayerful 
thought. 

That what are called evangelical churches, as the Epis- 
copal, Baptist, Methodist, Congregationalist, Presbyte- 
rian, etc., hold and preach so much truth as does avail 
through the blessing of God to the salvation of souls; 
that real experimental religion is produced under their 
preaching, and found in their churches, few will deny who 
have inquired into the matter. I speak of all who in 
general are called evangelical ; real piety is found in all, 
Christ crucified is preached, the need of a change of heart 


y. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


T 43 


through the operations of God’s grace and the necessity 
of a holy life, is inculcated by all of them. 

Now, when we compare the followers of Christ, the sum 
total of those who give evidence of a governing regard for 
his authority and his glory, with the number of those who 
know not God and are perishing for lack of knowledge, 
we see that they are a little flock ; even in happy and 
favored America they are comparatively few, and the work 
great which is laid on them by the command of their 
Saviour, to make his salvation known to their fellow-men. 
But when we go further and look at the whole world, and 
recollect that the command of Christ binds on his people 
the duty of caring for the whole of it, of feeling the solemn 
obligation of having the gospel preached, as soon as pos- 
sible, to every creature, and then compare the small num- 
ber of those who make a credible profession of religion, 
with the immense numbers who are perishing in their sins, 
we see in a more impressive light how few they are com- 
pared with the magnitude of their work, and how many 
reasons they have to use, with all possible economy, all the 
means within their power. Surely, where all the moral 
and physical means which they possess do not amount to 
one part in a thousand of what might be usefully employed, 
it must be a great want of true practical wisdom, to give it 
no worse name, to waste or destroy by counter-working a 
considerable part of the limited means in possession ; and 
yet do we not see this taking place sometimes among the 
followers of our Lord and Redeemer ! 

Were a pure love to Christ — a pure zeal for his glory, 
and a single love for the salvation of souls — to take the 
place of that, sectarian zeal which has now to such an ex- 
tent the controlling power in the church, or at least modi- 
fies to such an extent much of what God’s people do in 
their efforts to promote his cause in the world, what 


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changes it would effect! Perhaps it would not be too 
much to say that it might lead to such changes in the loca- 
tion of preachers, in the assemblies for worship, that three 
times as many people would hear the gospel preached. 
Where one preacher had taken his station and preached 
Christ, another would not come to divide and distract, 
because he might differ in a few things ; but thanking God 
that that people had Christ preached to them, he would 
encourage all to attend and receive the engrafted word, 
while he went to proclaim the word of salvation to those 
who had none to break to them the bread of life. 

And here I cannot but refer to what I have often noticed 
with regret — that the different branches of the church in 
the United States, in speaking of the condition of religion, 
overlook too much what is done by other branches of the 
church. They speak of a place as destitute if it has no 
preacher of their own sect, although it may be well sup- 
plied by another sect which holds the truth and preaches 
Christ. If ministers be so injudicious as to write such de- 
fective accounts, editors of religious papers, and directors 
of religious societies ought not to publish them without 
correction. They wound the feelings of other sects, they 
injure the Church of Christ, and they do not agree with 
the truth. All preaching of the gospel that Christ owns 
and blesses ought to be owned by his people — we are to 
forbid none, to overlook none “who cast out devils,” or 
turn men to God through the name of Christ. I have ob- 
served that these partial accounts are laid hold of in Eu- 
rope, and urged in proof that the United States are becom- 
ing almost heathen for the want of a religious establishment, 
while the whole truth would show that in no land on earth 
is the state of religion, on the whole, better, or so good, as 
in the United States. 

“ Plenary Indulgences.” These words, in French, are 


y. Z>. PAXTON, D.D. 


x 45 


written in large letters over the door of the Roman Catho- 
lic church on Mont Martres. The terms on which the 
benefit may be obtained are given, viva voce , to those 
who apply and give the required fee, or perform the pre- 
scribed duty. 

There can be no doubt that papacy in France does not 
present the same aspect that it does in Italy and other parts 
of Europe. Infidelity and the progress of liberal sentiments 
are obliging the papists, perhaps almost imperceptibly to 
themselves , to avoid some of the more gross absurdities, or 
practice them with rather more reserve and circumspec- 
tion. 

It is pleasing to know that amid all the darkness that 
covers this land, God is from time to time bringing souls 
to the knowledge of the truth. A few days past a religious 
friend related to me the following case, of which he had just 
received information : A gentleman of respectable stand- 
ing and family had come to Paris on some business. A 
citizen in whose company he happened to be talked to him 
seriously on the subject of religion, and gave him a Bible 
and some religious tracts. His attention was drawn to the 
subject, he engaged in reading the Bible, and God blessed 
it to him. His mind became deeply inpressed, but for a 
time he did not let it be known. At length he communi- 
cated it to his wife, who did not oppose him. It so fell 
out that a case of affliction occurred near them, of a poor 
outcast of society. This couple interested themselves in 
the case, had the person taken to their house, and while 
they attended to the bodily wants of the sufferer, their 
own religious feelings led them to care for the soul of their 
patient. Solicitous that the person might have better in- 
struction than they might be able to give, they sent for a 
pious Protestant preacher who was within reach. He went, 
and during his visits he ascertained that the Spirit was at 

*3 


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work with those who sought his aid for their patient. 
Free conversation with them had, through God’s blessing, 
a good effect in leading the man to a clearer view of the 
truth as it is in Jesus and establishment in the faith. It ap- 
pears blest to the family. Thus God works as He sees best 
in promoting his cause ; thus He blesses the efforts of his 
people to lead their fellow-men to the knowledge of the 
truth; and thus, while men labor to do good to others, 
God does good to them ; and thus real piety, in every 
land, leads those who possess it to imitate their Lord and 
Saviour in doing good to their fellow-men. 

The citizen of Paris who talked to his friend from the 
country and gave him the book of God, tried to do good, 
and God blessing his efforts, caused the truth to reach the 
heart of his friend. That friend, softened by divine grace, 
interested himself in the case of a poor, abandoned out- 
cast, and God not only gave him reason to hope that his 
effort both for the temporal and spiritual benefit of that 
outcast is not in vain, but overruled his effort for his own 
good, in bringing him to an acquaintance with a man of 
God, who through grace was enabled to remove his diffi- 
culties and establish him in the faith and hope of the gos- 
pel of Christ. 

Another case of a somewhat interesting kind was related 
to me about the same time. One of the Protestant preachers 
was, a week or two past, requested to visit a person who 
appeared near her end. He went, and found a very old 
woman in great poverty, who was waited on by her daugh- 
ter. She was nearly gone, but, to the surprise and joy of 
the preacher, he found her not only possessing a hape, but 
a joyful hope in Christ. The preacher reports that he has 
seldom known a case of clearer views and more joyful hope 
in the mercy of God through the merits of our Lord and 
Saviour Jesus Christ. What makes the case singular is that 


y. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


147 


this poor old child of God seems not to have been known 
to any of God’s people. It was not known in that church 
that there was such a person ; and yet she knew Jesus her 
Saviour, and was known of him, and in her day of trial, at 
the hour of death, God favored her with bright tokens of 
his presence, and the sweet converse of one of his minis- 
tering servants. 

May we not hope that amid all the darkness and spiritual 
death that broods over the continent of Europe, there are 
many hidden ones, many not known to the world as the 
followers of Christ, who yet know God and are known of 
Him ? It may be, at the final review of all things, we shall 
be surprised to find that while many who made much noise 
in the world, and much show in the visible church, are on 
the left hand of the Judge, very many will be found on the 
right of whom the world knew not, or made of no account. 
May the Lord make us all careful to live near to God, to 
be faithful to Christ, and give us, at last, a joyful admis- 
sion to his presence ! 

We are, however, far from thinking that Christians should 
try to keep their Christianity concealed. Christ does not 
light a candle and put it under a bushel. The circum- 
stances of the poor woman above noticed may have been 
peculiar; a dark, a very dark time has passed over the 
Protestant Church in France, and especially in Paris. In- 
fidelity has here had its reign, and a dark and bloody reign 
it was. It is but lately that religion has begun to revive ; 
the few pious pastors now in the city are all of rather recent 
settlement, and if the old disciple has long walked in the 
way of life she must have walked without a shepherd ; at 
least, we need go back but a few years to reach a time when 
the shepherd’s voice was not heard in Paris. And since 
the Lord has visited his people and given them spiritual 
food, it may be that her infirmities — for she was old and 


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infirm as well as poor — prevented her from attending on 
the means of grace. How careful ought Christians to be 
in inquiring for those who honor God, and in ascertaining 
the condition, both temporal and spiritual, of their poor 
neighbors ! 

I left Paris on the 14th of April for Lyons, via Troyes, 
Dijon, and Chalons. There is not much to interest a trav- 
eler on the route. As I traveled in a regular diligence, I 
had to travel day and night, and may have passed some 
objects of interest in the night. The country is very level, 
until near Dijon, where we passed some hills, which they 
call mountains. Several of the churches at Troyes and 
Dijon, where a short delay allowed a few minutes to walk 
to them, were worth seeing. One at Troyes exhibited 
within more than usual taste and elegance. 

The Museum at Dijon, in the old palace of the Duke of 
Burgoine, contains some good paintings and statuary. The 
tombs of two dukes and a duchess are most striking. The 
base is a large, thick slab of black marble, highly finished. 
On this stands a group of mourners facing out — priests, 
monks, etc., in their various dresses, exquisitely cut from 
white marble. Some of the monks have missals in hand, 
some are hooded, and others cover their faces in token of 
grief. Interposed between the statues, which are about two 
feet in height, are finely-wrought pieces of filigree or fringe- 
like work of various devices, as spires, towers, etc. Over 
the head of these lies another thick slab of black marble, 
supported by pillars and parts of the work connected with 
the statues of the mourning group. All are kept firmly 
in their places between the two black slabs. Upon the 
upper slab repose the statue of a duke and his duchess, side 
by side, in white marble, as large as life, robed in regal 
vesture, the hands of each placed together above the breast, 
a little elevated as in prayer. At their heads angels kneel, 


y. D. PAXTON , ; D.D. 


149 

with golden wings expanded ; at the feet of the duke a lion 
crouches, and a lioness at the feet of the duchess. 

The other duke, represented in nearly the same manner, 
lies alone. The workmanship of the whole is most ex- 
quisite. 

We reached Chalons in the night, and finding a steam- 
boat waiting the arrival of the diligence to start for Lyons, 
we went at once on board and set off. From what I saw 
near Dijon, and what, when the day dawned on us, near 
Chalons, I think that district is better than what I have 
before seen in France. It has more inclosures, more or- 
namental and fruit trees, and the whole aspect of the 
country gives the idea of more wealth, improvement, and 
comfort. Long districts were covered with vineyards ; the 
sides of the hills and the stony and poorer soil were set with 
vines. Laborers were at work preparing the ground, often 
with the hoe. All the vine is cut away except a short 
stump ; a stick from two to four feet long is driven in the 
ground close to the root of the vine. 

In the vineyards and fields there were to be seen as many 
women as men. It would seem that the women engage 
in all kinds of out-door labor. I have seen them manage 
the plow and the harrow. I have seen a young woman, 
where our diligence needed an additional set of horses to 
aid in ascending a mountain, bring out the horses, and ac- 
companying our driver to the top of the mountain, assist 
in driving the horses, and then loose them out and return 
home with them. It was all done as a matter of course — 
not an indication given that it was unusual for a woman 
thus to aid. 

The valley of the Saone is very fine. The country rises 
gradually to a ridge eight or ten miles distant on the west, 
and is seen to great advantage from the river. Villages 

13* 


MEMOIR OF 


I 5° 

are numerous. There are but few Protestants in the dis- 
trict ; there is a church at Troyes and an evangelical 
pastor. The society at Geneva have a preacher at Chalons, 
who visits Dijon ; one at Macon and the adjoining region, 
also several colporteurs in those districts, who appear to 
be doing good. 

Lyons is situated at the junction of the Saone with the 
Rhone. Most of the town is on the tongue of land be- 
tween the two rivers ; its suburbs extend on either side of 
both rivers. The tongue of land, after a level spot, rises 
several hundred feet, very abruptly; there are also high 
bluffs on the west of the Saone, but east of the Rhone the 
country is nearly level. The sides of the high bluff be- 
tween the rivers and on the west of the Saone, as well as 
the top, are covered with houses rising one above another, 
making a beautiful appearance. The views up the rivers, 
and down the united river, are uncommonly fine. The 
country for a considerable distance is thickly spotted with 
residences of the Lyonese ; many of which have inclosed 
lots, gardens, orchards, and ornamental trees. 

On the whole, Lyons is one of the most picturesque 
towns I have seen in France. I rather marvel I have 
heard so little about it. The style of building is better 
than at Paris, and the houses often six or seven stories 
high. Many of the streets are narrow and are not clean, 
but in this it has the advantage of Paris also. The quays 
and bridges are noble. It is famous for its silk manu- 
factories. 

The last week in Lent is distinguished by some peculiar 
ceremonies. I observed in several papal churches great 
preparations for consecrating holy water. Tubs of enor- 
mous size were set in the church, and persons employed in 
carrying water and filling them. I did not see the conse- 
cration, but in passing next day, I saw persons in crowds 


y. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


I5i 

about those tubs, with pitchers, jugs, bottles, and other 
vessels, which they filled with water from the tubs and car- 
ried home, to be kept for use for the ensuing year. They 
dip a finger in it and cross themselves, no doubt ascribing 
great virtue to it. 

I have been more interested with the state of evangelical 
religion at Lyons than anything else. Rev. Adolphe 
Monod, to whom I had a letter, is a most interesting man. 
Our meeting was rather singular. In passing Macon in 
the boat, on my way to Lyons, several persons came on 
board as passengers. It being cold on deck, after looking 
at the town, I went below, and took a seat at a table to 
make some notes. A gentleman in black, who had come 
on board at Macon, took a seat near me, and engaged also 
in writing. When I stopped writing and went on deck to 
look at the country, he followed, and in pretty good 
English asked me if I was not an Englishman ; I told him 
an American. He inquired if I would spend next Sabbath 
at Lyons (it was Friday). I told him I intended to do so. 
He said that, from seeing me taking notes, he supposed me 
to be an Englishman, as Frenchmen seldom write on a 
steamboat, and thinking I would probably be in Lyons 
over Sabbath, he had spoken to me chiefly for the purpose 
of letting me know that there was religious service in 
English, on Sabbath, at Lyons. I thanked him for his 
kindness ; but remarked that I had a letter to the Rev. 
Monod, an evangelical French preacher at Lyons, whom 
it was my wish and my purpose to hear. I was, as may 
well be supposed, surprised and delighted, when he re- 
plied, “I am the Monod to whom you refer.” He had 
been up the day before to preach at Macon, and was now 
on his return. I soon became acquainted with him, and 
all my additional intercourse with him, which was con- 
siderable for the two or three days that I remained in 


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Lyons, served but to confirm the good opinion I at first 
formed of him. 

His history and that of his church at Lyons is interesting. 
Lest I should fall into errors, by going much into details, I 
will state briefly, that at the time he settled at Lyons he 
was inclined to the Arian or Socinian notions. He had 
previously preached at Naples, in Italy. About the time 
he came to Lyons a great, and it is hoped a radical 
change took place in his views on the doctrines of religion. 
He became evangelical and ardent in his Master’s work. 
This gave offense to the Consistory of Lyons, the majority 
of whom were deeply tainted with Socinianism. He preached 
Christ and him crucified ; they opposed his zeal and evan- 
gelical sentiments. It resulted in his exclusion from the 
church and Consistory. But in the mean time his preach- 
ing had been blest of God, to the conversion of some who 
jdave to him as their spiritual father. There was also a 
small society of Baptist Dissenters in Lyons, who had no 
preacher; a number of them were pious. These united 
with those converted by his ministry, and others attached 
to his preaching, and to them he now breaks the bread 
of life. His church now numbers above a hundred mem- 
bers. 

The Sabbath I heard him was a communion Sabbath, 
and those who partook of the ordinance formed a con- 
siderable assembly. His people have but little wealth, 
but the Lord raises them up friends. Not long since they 
were out of means, and Monod and his deacons met and 
made it a matter of special prayer, that God would give 
them help as they- had need. Almost immediately money 
was received from persons in different places. 

They are kept dependent on God, but thus far he has 
most wonderfully aided them and supplied their wants. 
Monod told me he never had so much labor to do for God 


J. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


153 


as since he was put out of the Consistory for preaching 
Christ ; and he sees, daily, that his labor is not in vain in 
the Lord. A considerable number of those who are hope- 
fully converted were Roman Catholics. Many of the 
Catholics attend his meeting. His place of worship is 
crowded. The priests have publicly forbidden their people 
to hear him preach, but a number still come to his church. 
He is training his people to active service in Sabbath- 
schools, distributing tracts, Bibles, etc., and is, under God, 
I hope, sowing seed which will produce much fruit to God’s 
glory. 

It is a most painful fact that so large a part of the Prot- 
estants in France are opposed to pure and spiritual religion. 
So opposed as to set themselves in opposition to those who 
preach Christ and him crucified. Another instance has 
occurred within a few weeks past at Etienne, a town about 
a day’s travel from this. The Protestant preacher there 
has lately become much more warm and ardent in preach- 
ing a crucified Saviour. God has blest his labors. A 
number hopefully converted ; others attending seriously to 
the doctrines of the cross ; and the great mass of his hear- 
ers attached to him and willing to hear the truth. But 
the majority of the Consistory are opposed to evangelical 
religion, and have removed him from the church. The 
great majority of the congregation, it is said, will go with 
him. It appears evidently his duty to form them into an 
independent congregation. But they will be without a place 
of worship when driven from the house they now occupy. 
God, whose work they are promoting, will, I doubt not, 
have them under his care. 

One of the best tracts that I have seen on our subjects of 
controversy with the Romanists, was written by the brother 
last referred to. The title of the tract is, Why does your 
Priest forbid you to read the Bible ? It is a dialogue be- 


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tween a colporteur and a Catholic, in which the latter 
declines receiving the Bible because his priests forbid him 
to read it. It is written in a fine spirit, and is that kind 
of taking hold of the matter which I think is wanted. 
By quoting the Scriptures in full, and filling up the in- 
terval with a few good remarks, a tract is made that may 
do good. 


y. D. PAXTON ; D.D. 


155 


CHAPTER V. 


Geneva — Persecution — Centennial Celebration — Scenery — Chambery 
— Road to Turin — Chasm — Mount Cenis — Chapels of the Virgin — 
Library — Battle-Field — Protestant Service — Genoa — View from 
the Bay — Leghorn — Falling Tower — Indulgences — Annoyances — 
Rome — Tivoli — Prussian Ambassador — Family Scene — Reading 
Rooms — Popery at Home — Bible at Rome — Successors of Peter — 
Lovely Valleys — Cultivated Mountains — Capua — A Smuggler — 
Pontine Marshes — Naples — Herculaneum — Vesuvius — Pompeii — 
Protestant Efforts — King’s Birthday — St. Janarius — St. Peter’s 
Chair — Delaware and Potomac — Voyage to Malta. 

M Y wish was to have passed from Lyons, down the 
Rhone to Marseilles, there to take a steamboat to 
Naples, and return by land through Italy and Switzerland. 
The prevalence of cholera in the region of Marseilles had 
led the civil authorities in Italy to enforce the quarantine 
laws so strictly, that I was assured by the Sardinian consul 
at Lyons, that I could not pass the southern route, either 
by land or water, without being detained in quarantine 
twenty days. I preferred crossing the Alps; and not 
meeting with a conveyance at once to Chambery, on the 
Mount Cenis route, we took passage to Geneva. 

Leaving Lyons at nine in the evening, the time at which 
the daily diligence unhappily starts, we lost the view of 
the fine tract of country along the Rhone, up the west side 
of which we passed. From the long stretch of it I had 
seen from the heights of Lyons, it must be a fertile dis- 
trict, in a good state of improvement. 

When day dawned on us we were entering a broken 


X 5 6 


MEMOIR OF 


country, which soon became mountainous, and continued 
so, with little interruption, all the way to Geneva. At 
Nantua, we passed a beautiful lake, with very steep mount- 
ains on both sides, and here we first began to see their 
tops white with snow. This continued to increase as we 
advanced ; the mountains among which we wound, and 
over the lower parts of which we passed, continued to in- 
crease in size and ruggedness. The rock was chiefly lime- 
stone, as far as I could judge, in some places sandstone, 
and on some of the higher parts we passed over, were im- 
mense masses of water-worn pebbles and boulders. The 
mountains were exceedingly broken and irregular, and the 
strata of rock lay in all possible directions, from horizontal 
to vertical, the changes often sudden and great. I ob- 
served that on some of the highest points the rocks were 
vertical, while others had horizontal strata at the top, 
and below, the rock had the dip in various degrees, at dif- 
ferent heights. 

But what struck me most was the fact that most of these 
mountains are almost wholly destitute of forests. On some 
of the northern sides some stunted trees of varieties of the 
pine grew, and in a few places there were groves of well- 
grown trees, but, generally, moss and furze alone were seen 
on these mountains. Whenever there was level ground 
that could be tilled, it was under cultivation, and often the 
mountain-side was covered with little patches, where the 
stones had been gathered off, and vines planted, or grass 
was grown for the sheep and goats. 

Not far from the boundary between France and Switzer- 
land, the Rhone passes through the gorge of a very high 
mountain ; the road runs along the side of the mountain, 
it may be, one-third of its height above the river. The 
French have a very strong fort here. The place is called 
the Loss of the Rhone, from the fact that the river does 


J. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


*57 


appear to have dwindled down to a little creek ; what is 
the cause of its diminution is not certainly known. Most 
likely the channel may be very deep, although it does not 
appear so. It may be, as the common opinion is, that it 
has an underground passage. The mountains are very steep 
on both sides, and leave a very narrow channel for the 
river. Possibly softer strata below the surface may give 
a larger passage ; or loose and open masses of rock may 
suffer the water to pass through. One thing is very cer- 
tain, the river, both above and below, appears to have a 
much greater quantity of water than for a mile or two at 
this place. 

After passing through this mountain, we found the valley 
between the mountains open, and beginning to exhibit 
better cultivation and more improvement than heretofore. 
Everything began to tell us that we were getting within 
the limits of another country. We soon passed into the 
territory of Geneva, and as we approached that metropolis, 
little as to population, little as to territory, but mighty as 
to its moral power and influence, in days past, on the des- 
tinies of Europe and the world, the appearance of every- 
thing rapidly improved ; the land seemed richer, and more 
divided into lots or small plantations, was better cultivated, 
there were better buildings, more trees, and larger. Pres- 
ently Geneva rose into view, and sweeping down the fine- 
made road, along which many noble country-houses rise, 
w.e wound in through the redoubts, entered the gate, 
whirled in through the part of the town west of the Rhone, 
crossed the bridge, and was set down near the middle of 
the city. 

The town stands at the foot of Lake Geneva, where the 
Rhone runs out, and occupies a part of both banks of the 
river, and spreads up both sides of the lake, which is shal- 
low at that part. Several bridges are made over the river. 

14 


MEMOIR OF 


158 

The sides of the river are walled up, and, as the current is 
considerable, water-power is gained for mills. Geneva has 
been a very strongly fortified, place. The walls, and fosse, 
and numerous intrenchments which yet remain, many of 
them in good repair, have an imposing appearance. The 
situation of the town is beautiful. The fine spread of water 
up the lake, the towering mountains at a distance on all 
sides, many of them covered with snow, and the fine stretch 
of well-cultivated level land which spreads out from the town 
on all sides, give a richness of scenqry not often met with. 

The buildings are high and much crowded together ; an 
equal population is perhaps not often found within so small 
limits; yet the streets appeared uncommonly clean, espe- 
cially after being accustomed to the towns of France, 
which, I am sorry to say, are almost always dirty. There 
are, notwithstanding the crowding of houses in Geneva, 
and particularly on the east of the river, where most of the 
town stands, some fine promenades, as on and near the 
quays, the bridges, the ramparts and gardens on the land 
side, and the open country without the gates. The build- 
ings, especially those of recent erection, are of a superior 
kind. 

The Protestant religion of the Presbyterian form is es- 
tablished at Geneva; other forms are more or less tolerated. 
In looking through the town, I stepped into a church, the 
door of which was open, and found it to be a Roman Cath- 
olic church, with all its apparatus of holy water, altar, can- 
dles, crucifixes, and images. Several persons were in the 
church, repeating their prayers before the images and 
paintings. 

There has been a lamentable fall in the Genevan Prot- 
estant Church. A majority, from all I can hear, have 
abandoned the doctrines of the Reformation — have be- 
come Socinians, Arians, or German rationalists. This is 


y. D. PAXTON , ; D.D. 


*59 


not all; they have set themselves against the few who 
preach Christ and him crucified. For several years the 
few evangelical men among them have been harassed and 
vexed in various ways ; several of them have been excluded 
from the national church ; some have been deposed, some 
maltreated, nicknames given them, and their meetings for 
prayer, for a time, were forbidden. They were called 
Momiers by the populace, and Methodists by the more 
polished part of society. These shameful modes of treat- 
ment have not stopped the progress of truth. The number 
of evangelical ministers has increased, and there is an in- 
crease of those who love the cross and are willing to suffer 
for the name of Jesus. There are some evangelical men 
in the establishment, and some of those who have been 
excluded for preaching the truth have formed independent 
churches, and are doing more good, perhaps, than they 
would have done if they had been allowed to remain in 
the establishment. The result of their efforts to sustain 
their churches without the aid of civil government, and 
under all the disadvantages arising from the opposition of 
the establishment, is furnishing a proof that the gospel 
does better without the aid of civil government, — that it 
is better for the church to have no connection with the 
state. 

It deserves observation that both in France and in Swit- 
zerland the exclusion of some of the best men from the 
national church is leading to the formation of independent 
evangelical churches, which sustain themselves and work 
well ; and thus, at the very time that the question respect- 
ing the propriety or necessity of a connection between 
church and state is exciting more and more the attention 
of thinking men — is canvassed and agitated by politicians 
and legislative bodies, matter-of-fact proof should be ex- 
hibited, in nation after nation, that the church needs but 


i6o 


MEMOIR OF 


to be let alone — to be left to its own resources, untrammeled 
by unholy connections with the state, and that this effect 
should be brought about in such a way : the advocates of 
establishments exclude evangelicals — oblige them to sup- 
port their churches without aid ; God blesses the efforts of 
those, and they succeed better than those who receive sup- 
port, and thus, from their own experience, become the 
advocates for a separation of church and state. 

Thus, in the United States, the Baptists and Presbyte- 
rians in the Middle and Southern States had, before the 
Revolution, proved to their own satisfaction that the 
church would do better to have no alliance with the state, 
and they used their influence to have religion free from 
civil alliance. See the memorials which the Presbyterians 
sent up to the Legislature of Virginia about the time the 
State became independent and adopted a constitution. 
The time since elapsed has satisfied Americans almost 
universally that there ought to be no connection between 
church and state. 

The oppressions of the establishment in England have 
made most of the really pious dissenters; and having to 
support their own churches, as well as.to aid in supporting 
the national church, a great number are satisfied that the 
church does not need the support of the state. The estab- 
lishment there will probably go down, and to the great 
benefit of evangelical religion, all the fear of the conse- 
quences which some good men have to the contrary not- 
withstanding. In France and Switzerland we see the pre- 
liminary steps taken ; some things indicate the same thing 
in Prussia. It is a time of shaking and change ; but the 
Lord will make all subserve the promotion of his glory and 
the final triumph of the gospel of Christ. “He that is wise 
and will observe these things, even he shall understand the 
loving kindness of the Lord.” 


J. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


161 


Preparation is being made at Geneva to have a centennial 
celebration of the Reformation about the 20th of August 
next. It is well to have the public attention specially- 
drawn to the fact that many of them have so widely de- 
parted from the doctrines which the reformers maintained. 
It may have a good effect. 

It was remarked to me by one of the most active and in- 
telligent of the preachers that I have seen at Geneva, that 
the cause of evangelical religion has been much aided at 
Geneva by the visits of evangelical clergymen from Eng- 
land and America, and other places. That even where 
they could not preach, through a want of sufficient knowl- 
edge of the language, yet their intercourse with the minis- 
ters and people made a favorable impression ; he esteemed 
it a great advantage to the cause of Christ to receive such 
visits ; it strengthened the hands of the ministers and en- 
couraged their hearts, and it was one of the ways, and a 
promising one, of promoting the cause of our Lord and 
Redeemer in the world. 

I feel inclined to repeat a remark I have made — that all 
I have seen in England, France, and Switzerland, all I 
have heard and learned of the state of the church in these 
lands, satisfies me more and more that they are, in many 
respects, far behind that of the church in our own beloved 
and highly-favored land. 

All I have seen of Geneva, however, makes me regret that 
I did not so arrange my plans to allow myself a month or 
more to stay at Geneva, instead of a few days. There is a 
considerable resort of English and Scottish students to 
Geneva. The literary institutions, although not so cele- 
brated as formerly, have still a respectable standing as 
places of learning. The high and healthy situation of 
Geneva, the fine scenery, and the neatness of the town 
and good condition of the public morals, are much in its 

14* 


162 


MEMOIR OF 


favor as a place of learning. But the prevalence of So- 
cinian and Arian sentiments is a grievous drawback in the 
view of those who have due regard for the religious senti- 
ments of their children. 

I was rather surprised to find that Geneva was an expen- 
sive place to live in, and am told it is so generally in Swit- 
zerland. I had supposed, from the character of the people, 
the reverse would have been the case. 

The top of Mont Blanc may be seen in the distance 
from Geneva. It lies behind other mountains, but is seen 
peeping over them. 

In going to Geneva I had some intention of crossing the 
Simplon into Italy. The coldness of the weather, and the 
heavy fall of snow which had taken place, made me hesi- 
tate, and when to this was added the earnest advice of 
several intelligent gentlemen of Geneva, that in the pres- 
ent state of the weather and mountains from the snow, I 
had better take the road over Mont Cenis, I concluded to 
do so. This led me through Savoy to Chambery, where we 
met the direct road from Lyons to Turin. The road from 
Geneva to Chambery is good. It leads through a hilly, 
broken country, of a light, thin soil, and but badly culti- 
vated. To this there are some exceptions ; there are some 
beautiful valleys, and occasionally, as about Aix and near 
Chambery, there are districts of great beauty, and well im- 
proved. The mountains are mostly very rough and barren ; 
some of them are very precipitous, and almost wholly des- 
titute of vegetation. There are occasionally falls of rock 
and earth from these mountains which do much injury. 
About six miles south of this place, a part of a mountain 
fell, in former times, and buried five villages ; the fallen 
matter spread over nine miles square. In many places the 
rock seems to hang in doubtful suspense, and threaten ruin 
to the lands below. Chambery is surrounded with mount- 


J. D. PAXTON, P.D. 


1 63 


ains; it was formerly a walled town, but the walls are 
chiefly gone, and their place occupied with public walks 
and gardens. The tower holds a commanding position, is 
still occupied by soldiers, and keeps up the show of war. 

Turin, April 29. — At Chambery we engaged a vettureno 
to bring us to this place. We gave him about forty francs 
each, and he paid for our supper and lodging on the way. 
This is a common mode of traveling in Italy — one of the 
most comfortable and cheapest, provided you fall into the 
hands of the better sort of men who follow the business. 

The road from Chambery to Turin is one of the great 
works of Napoleon — and a great work it is. It runs up 
the valley of the Arc, and has been made with great labor, 
and, for the most part, in a very substantial manner. The 
valley is from a half to three or four miles wide, shut in by 
high and broken mountains. Fertile spots, in a pretty 
good state of cultivation, were to be seen, but much the 
larger part had a poor, light soil, which promised little 
to the cultivator. Still, it was surprising to see how the 
sides of the mountains, wherever the rocks would admit of 
it, and the soil promised any return for the labor, were 
cleared up, the stones gathered off and laid in rows, the 
earth leveled, and vines planted, or grass grown, or little 
patches of grain cultivated. In some parts of the valley 
the mountains were cultivated almost to the top, and high 
up their sides little huts could be seen, like nests sticking 
to the side of the hill. Many of these are occupied only 
in the summer, while those high fields are cultivated ; in- 
deed, not a few of them seem not to afford room for a 
family, unless the chief accommodation is provided by 
excavating the ground under or behind the little shelter 
which is seen. 

We crossed a chalk district which continued for many 
miles. In these districts there had been many slides of 


164 


MEMOIR OF 


earth from the mountain side, and in one place, where the 
valley was narrow and the side ridges closed in much on 
it, there was the most tremendous chasm I have ever seen. 
It must be several hundred feet deep, and the sides still 
falling in. The road runs along the side, and, in some 
places, is cut deep in the side of the mountain, and walled 
up from a great depth on the side next the gulf. At a 
narrow part of the gulf, where it is fearfully deep, there is 
a strong fort placed, on the side opposite the road, and 
a bridge thrown over. It is a place, that, if it is not, could 
easily be made impassable, without the consent of those 
who occupy the fort. 

From Chambery to Lans-le-Bourg is from eighty to one 
hundred miles, and is a continual ascent. At Lans-le-Bourg 
the ascent of Mont Cenis, properly speaking, begins. 
From that place to the post-house on the summit, is reck- 
oned three posts, say twelve miles. The road is good, the 
ascent gradual, and the labor in ascending not much greater 
than is often required in passing an equal distance on other 
roads. 

It began to rain as we commenced the ascent of the 
mountain ; we had not proceeded far until the rain gave 
place to snow, this increased with wind, amounting almost 
to a storm, and continued until we passed the summit and 
descended half way down the other side, thus, in a great 
measure, depriving us of the fine views of the pass, and the 
adjoining heights, which are enjoyed in good weather from 
the road. The pass is 7700 feet above the level of the sea, 
while some of the adjoining heights are 11,400 feet. 

The road on the Italian side is a more splendid work 
than the other. The road winds down a very deep and 
precipitous hollow, but is so broad, so well graded, and 
has such a fine parapet next the yawning chasm below, that 
the traveler looks down with but little apprehension. About 


J. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


i6 5 

half way down the snow-storm left us, or rather, we left it, 
by passing below its range, and the lovely plains of Italy 
came into view. Vegetation was more forward than on 
the mountains, the soil richer, cultivation better. Fruit- 
trees, as well as the walnut and mulberry, were more 
numerous, and larger. The vines, which in France and 
Savoy are usually cut short, were here left at a consider- 
able length, and either trained on frames or allowed to 
run on trees. Villages were more numerous, and every- 
thing bespoke a more genial clime. It took us nearly 
seven hours to pass from Lans-le-Bourg to Susa, on the 
Italian side. There are within this space twenty houses 
of refuge, for the benefit of those who may be benighted 
or otherwise need a retreat. There is a lake of some size 
on the top of Cenis, and a village growing up near it ; 
this place is grievously beset with fogs, which would greatly 
perplex travelers but for the posts set up in the form of 
crosses every few rods along the road, to point out the 
way. These, with the houses of refuge, and the aid that 
the keepers of these houses give, make this route compara- 
tively safe. 

Turin is a pretty town, finely situated on the Po. To 
the west and northwest stretch the Alps, with their snowy 
tops, while a rich and well-cultivated plain extends around. 
Turin is well built : some of the streets are very fine ; one 
reminded me of the Rue Tivoli, in Paris, and served most 
probably as a pattern for that street, which was built by 
Bonaparte after the conquest of Italy, and, as is said, with 
the plunder there obtained, of which the churches in Turin 
furnished a part. The churches have, however, replaced 
their losses, for in some of them there is now a great dis- 
play of wealth. I noticed that the chapels of the Virgin 
are, usually, most adorned. The churches have from two, 
to six, and ten chapels, called by different names and dedi- 


i66 


MEMOIR OF 


cated to different saints. The Virgin, in most instances, 
has one dedicated to her. Her image or picture is over 
the altar, offerings are more abundant, and here the largest 
number of worshipers collect. I have counted from three 
to five hundred hearts, made of pure silver, hung in these 
chapels of the Virgin. Some of them not larger than a 
dollar, but others larger than the hand and thick in pro- 
portion. Over the church doors we begin to see written 
in large characters, “ Indulgences, plenary, daily, perpetual, 
for the living, and for the dead. ' * This is the more usual 
form of the notice ; some leave out the latter clause. 

There is a good museum here ; its gallery of paintings is 
respectable ; the collection of Egyptian antiquities is not 
so large, but more select and superior to those at Paris. 
The Isaic Table is unique. It is of bronze, finely polished, 
inlaid with many plates of silver, forming figures, making 
a kind of mosaic work. It was found near Mantua. There 
is a very perfect case of recent embalmment, — the body of 
a negro who died in Turin a few years since ; it is said to be 
precisely like himself when living. 

The public library I visited twice, and found a number 
of persons engaged in reading. I was much pleased with 
the politeness and attention of the librarian, and his readi- 
ness to impart all the information I desired. The library 
contains one hundred and ten thousand volumes ; copies 
of many editions of the Scriptures, in various languages, 
particularly in Latin, Greek, French, and Italian. I was 
shown two copies of a splendid polyglot, one on vellum, 
the other on paper. There appeared to be a considerable 
collection of historical works, and works on theology and 
biblical criticism; few comparatively of the more recent 
publications. The English department was very defective ; 
on inquiring what English books they had, Milton and 
some others were named. This library is open daily, Sab- 


J. D. PAXTON , ; z>.z>. 


167 


baths and feast days excepted, and tables with writing 
materials are ready for those who may wish to take extracts 
from books. 

I was gratified on finding a reading-room furnished with 
English, French, and Italian papers, and magazines. In 
walking the streets, my guide pointed out to me a building 
in which the Protestants worship. I made an attempt to 
see their preacher, but did not find him, and failed in 
obtaining information respecting the condition of this 
church. 

Having neglected to bring with me an Italian Bible, I 
attempted to get one in Turin. After inquiring at several 
bookstores, without finding a copy of the Scriptures in 
any language, I saw, at a stand in a piazza, a book, pro- 
fessing, from its label, to be the Bible. On examining it, 
however, I found that it contained but a small part of the 
Scriptures ; it had part of the historical books of the Old 
Testament, most of the Apocrypha, which made the larger 
part of the volume, but none of the New Testament. The 
storekeeper, at first, insisted that it was the Bible ; seemed 
not to comprehend me when I talked about a part of the 
Bible not being in it, but at length cut the matter short 
by letting me understand that was all the kind of Bible 
he had. I had inquired at the other stores for “ Muston’s 
History of the Vaudois.” At last I found a bookman who 
told me it could not be had in Turin, that it was prohibited ; 
looking about, and seeing no one in the store but myself, he 
opened a desk and took out a volume. “ Here,” says he, 
“ is some account of the Vaudois, or Waldenses, written by 
one. of that people, but it is prohibited.” Upon examining 
the volume, I observed that it had been printed some years 
ago at Turin. “ How is this,” said I to him, “this book 
has been printed here, and you say it is prohibited ?” I then 
learned that it was printed while the French had possession 


MEMOIR OF 


1 68 

of the place, but that, with the restoration of the former 
authorities, the book was prohibited. The Protestants 
probably owe their church here to French influence. 

Many of the beautiful valleys which run up into the 
Alps, from the plain on which Turin stands, were once in- 
habited by the Vaudois ; and some of the most barbarous 
scenes that have ever been witnessed took place, when 
that pious and inoffensive people were destroyed, in valley 
after valley, for not bowing their necks to the papal 
authority, for preferring to serve God according to the 
plain letter of his word, to abandoning their pure faith, 
and adopting the idolatry and abominations of the Church 
of Rome. They are now confined to a few valleys, and 
their number is estimated at 20,000 or 30,000. I have 
not been able to hear whether they are now molested ; it 
is believed they are not ; but only a few years past they 
had just cause to complain. 

In 1827 an exchange of territory took place between 
France and Sardinia. In this exchange, some valleys 
occupied by the Vaudois passed from France to the King 
of Sardinia; and all the Vaudois in those valleys that 
would not embrace the Roman Catholic faith were obliged 
to forsake those valleys and seek a settlement elsewhere. 
How shameful for governments thus to trifle with the rights 
of their subjects ! How shameful for France, if she found 
it needful to exchange those valleys, not to have stipulated 
that this inoffensive people should be allowed the full en- 
joyment of their religious rights ! 

This is but one of the cases in which that branch of the 
Bourbon family, since driven from the throne of France, 
disregarded the religious rights of their subjects. The day 
of retribution has come, may others learn wisdom ! In my 
passage from Paris to Lyons, I made the acquaintance of 
two very genteel young men from the South of France. 


J. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


169 


They were Protestants; one of them was the son of a 
Protestant of respectability, who was massacred, with a 
good many others, by the Romanists in the South of 
France, soon after the first restoration of the Bourbons. 
Attempts were made to cover up that persecution ; it was 
asserted that it was next to nothing ; but the fact was not 
so. Many outrages were committed and a number of lives 
lost. We hope that these times are passed, and will not 
again return ; and could we feel assured that Romanism 
had lost its persecuting spirit, it would go far to make us 
forget or spread a veil over past conduct of that kind ; it is 
much more pleasant to dwell on bright visions in the future 
than on the fearful errors of the past. 

While in the cathedral at Turin a priest was perform- 
ing mass. I made a pause, and drew near to observe him. 
Four or five women and two men had gathered round the 
railing before the altar, on which railing was spread a 
white cloth. After a great many bows toward the altar, 
and about an equal number of genuflections, and a still 
greater number of crossings, some of them on, or toward 
himself, but most of them toward the altar, intermixed 
with the reading of some passages, in a low and indistinct 
voice, he proceeded to administer, by putting a piece of 
wafer on the tongue of each person who was kneeling round 
the railing ; they held up the edge of the cloth that was 
spread on it, close to the mouth, and put out the tongue 
to receive it. The priest repeated a sentence to each in 
giving the wafer. No wine was given ; all was over in a 
few minutes. The persons rose and went away and the 
priest went into the vestry. 

Belonging to the cathedral is a famous relic, the wind- 
ing-sheet of our Saviour, — a very splendid chapel takes its 
name from it. An intelligent traveler informs us that 
there are, between France and Italy, eight of these winding- 

15 


MEMOIR OF 


170 

sheets, each claiming most earnestly to be the true and 
only winding-sheet. The traveler fearlessly published the 
fact, and what followed? The book of travels is pro- 
hibited in Italy. 

As I went out of the cathedral, I noticed written over 
the door, “Indulgences, plenary, etc.” The guide who 
who was with us, on being asked if he believed that the 
priests could really forgive sins, at once answered, “Sans 
doubt ” (without doubt). That this is the general opinion 
of the great mass of those who believe in Romanism there 
is ample reason to believe. What a delusion ! and yet the 
priesthood encourage it. 

I have stated that the country around Turin was beauti- 
ful, and under fine cultivation ; this continued to be the 
case for some distance on the road past Asti, Alessandria, 
etc., on to Genoa. The mulberry, walnut, and Lombardy 
poplar are a common growth of trees ; the tops are cut for 
fuel. Many of the best districts are set with trees, almost 
as numerous as a well-set orchard, each with its vine climb- 
ing up it, and a branch of the vine carried across to the 
trees nearest, at about seven or eight feet high, and hang- 
ing in festoons, producing a rich and lovely appearance. 

Asti is a very old-looking town, and of a forbidding 
aspect. The windows high from the ground, very irregu- 
larly placed, but few of them, and those mostly grated, 
resembling those in prisons. 

Alessandria is a place of considerable size and strongly 
fortified. The fosse after fosse, and wall after wall, and gate 
after gate, and cannon everywhere pointed at you, and the 
sentinels at every corner, gave the place a warlike aspect. 
It stands in a plain, near the junction of the Bormida with 
the Tanaro. The houses have much of the old and prison- 
like appearance as those of Asti ; this is a characteristic of 
most of the villages I have seen in Italy and Savoy. We 


y. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


171 

passed the ground on which the noted battle of Marengo 
was fought ; it is a dead level plain of great extent, with 
nothing to impede the work of death. Those plains where 
man met man in deadly strife, which were covered with 
thousands who fell to rise no more, were now all silent, 
and gave no signs of having once witnessed the tempest of 
war. Even the monument, erected on the spot where 
Dessaix fell, is gone ; the jealous ruler of this land had it 
removed long since.v He possibly feared it might beget 
thoughts more free and patriotic than he wished ever to 
possess the minds of his ignorant and oppressed people. It 
was a French monument, and French influence and prin- 
ciples are a great terror to the government of Italy. 

The shades of night began to fall on us as we left this 
memorable plain, and until the morning dawned, we were 
ascending the chain of mountains which border the Medi- 
terranean near Genoa. On reaching the summit, the 
southern side, next Genoa, although rough and very 
irregular, exhibited cultivation and habitations almost to 
the top. It was very striking to see so rough a surface 
so subdued, and made to contribute to the sustenance of 
man. The road took a long, winding sweep, giving us a 
rich variety of impressive views of mountain and valley, 
hill and dale, spotted with fields, vineyards, gardens, 
churches, and human habitations. For a number of miles 
before we reached the coast, or could even get a peep at it, 
through the hills, that interlocked before us, there was 
nearly a continued village. 

Genoa, the birthplace of Columbus, lies around the 
head of a bay, and from the narrowness of the strip of 
lowlands on the shore, has found it necessary to draw 
largely on the mountain for building ground. In truth, 
most of the town stands on the mountain side, which is 
often so steep that the streets ascending are nearly as steep 


* 7 2 


MEMOIR OF 


as good stairs, and in some cases have steps not unlike 
them. The row of houses on one street may be seen 
standing on ground as high as the tops of those below ; 
many of the houses are very high, from five to six, and 
even more stories, and the streets very narrow. There are 
but two or three streets that will admit the passage of car- 
riages; add to this many of them are exceedingly irregular, 
wind and turn to all points of the compass. All this ad- 
mitted, still there is something very striking in Genoa. 
There are many splendid buildings, a whole street of 
palaces, — I was told, about seventy; and some of them 
rival in splendor any in Europe. Many of the churches 
are of a superior order. Genoa was once a place of great 
wealth and great trade ; her merchants were like princes. 
There was formerly a peculiar state of society here. Forty 
or more families constituted a kind of nobility, and asso- 
ciated and had intercourse almost solely among themselves. 
The dominion of the French in Italy, and the effects flow- 
ing from it, have had an influence in breaking down this 
state of things. For some time Genoa was also occupied 
by an English army, and the society of the officers was 
sought by these families. These with other things have 
affected those old customs. The city is now under the 
control of Sardinia, and does not feel much respect for the 
family that reigns over them ; much of her wealth is gone, 
her proud spirit is in part humbled, and possibly she may 
wear the yoke as long, if not with as good a grace, as the 
other states of Italy. A day of deliverance is no doubt 
before them, but it will, most likely, be preceded by, or 
accompanied with, a series of trials and revolutions. 

The French Protestants have a congregation; and a ser- 
vice is held by the English. I attended the latter on Sabbath, 
and was much pleased with the appearance and attention 
of the audience, bating one fact, that struck me as out of 


J. D. PAXTON , ; P.D. 


173 


place. Toward the close of the discourse, the speaker 
allowed himself to enter into a zealous defense of the Es- 
tablished Church of England ; not against the corruptions 
of papacy, by which he was surrounded, but against the 
sectaries , and particularly the reformers in England. The 
praises of the establishment were set forth in goodly terms, 
and those who would alter, or new model, or reform were 
in no very measured terms spoken of, as the opposers of 
the hope of Britain. Had this been preached in England, 
both the praise of our venerable church, and the reproof of 
those who would lay hands on her, would have been too 
strong, too unqualified, much more so was it at Genoa, 
where, except the English who were present, few of the 
hearers probably knew what the preacher was driving at. 

We left Genoa a little before night, and had from the 
bay a splendid view of the city and the whole amphitheater 
of mountains, by which it is surrounded. There is a range 
of mountains, twelve miles in extent, the tops and ridges 
and stony points of which are covered with splendid build- 
ings. In the middle of this bow-like range, at the head of 
the bay, stands the tower, much of it hanging on the lower 
part of the mountain, while the middle and higher knobs 
of almost the whole of this bow-like range of hills are dotted 
with buildings. I had heard that these mountains had a 
whitish and forbidding appearance; it may be so in winter, 
but it was now the month of May, the leaf full grown, with 
all the fresh greenness of youth, and the “ tout ensemble ,” 
of the view from the water, the bay, the light-house, the 
town, the mountains, gardens, edifices, forts, etc., was 
most imposing, most beautiful. As our boat glided through 
the waves, in its direction to the south, change followed 
change in the aspect of this fine landscape, ever varying 
and ever awakening the attention by the new panorama 
presented, till all began to fade away in the distance and 

15* 


i74 


MEMOIR OF 


disappear. So change and fade and pass from the mind 
those views of men, and manners, and things that once 
engaged our attention and interested our hearts, while 
new objects take their place and engage our affections. 

The steamer in which we took passage is a French con- 
cern, and rather a poor affair. Indeed, I have seen no 
boats in Europe that will compare with the common, much 
less the better class of steamboats on the Hudson and Ohio 
Rivers. The Scotch boats, which I have not seen, are 
reported of a superior order. 

Arrived at Leghorn about 8 a.m. This town stands on 
a level plat of ground, has a good port, but the buildings 
are not so princely in character as those of Genoa. 
Took a stage to Pisa, sixteen miles. The road lies through 
a district formerly covered with water, but it has been re- 
claimed by ditching. Wheat, rye, beans, and vines abound, 
also various kinds of trees, each of which has its vine asso- 
ciated with it, and often beautifully trained from tree to 
tree. 

The Falling Tower is truly a striking object. It rises 
considerably above any other building, but leans so much 
that the impression is always made in looking at it, that it 
is falling — that it must inevitably fall. It has, however, 
without perceptibly changing its inclination, stood through 
many earthquakes, which have thrown down other houses 
near it. 

We had a good opportunity of ascertaining its deviation 
from the perpendicular position. A shower of rain fell 
just before we reached the tower ; the drop from the lean- 
ing side of the tower fell above ten feet from its base. So 
that, notwithstanding the smaller size of the tower at the 
top than at the base, the top still leans above ten feet be- 
yond the base. This is only the outer edge, and as the 
diameter of the tower is much larger at the base than the 


y. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


*75 


top, it is apparent that the line of direction as yet falls far 
within the base. It may stand for ages, and it may fall 
soon. 

It is not certain at what time this tower was built, or for 
what purpose, and it is also a point in debate whether it 
was originally built in this leaning position, or has acquired 
it by the sinking of part of the foundation. I suppose that 
the latter is the true case. That one side of the basement 
is sunk in the ground more than the other, that the floor 
at the bottom has lost its level, is manifest ; some of the 
upper part of the tower appears to have more of the per- 
pendicular position than the body of the building. There 
is much plausibility in the opinion that the sinking of the 
foundation took place before the tower was finished, and 
the part built afterward followed the direction of the 
plumb line, and not that of the leaning wall below. Its 
height is said to be 190 feet. 

On the same square stands the cathedral and baptistery, 
superb buildings ; the campo sancto, an inclosed burying- 
ground, made, in part, of soil brought from the Holy Land. 
It is rich with monuments of the dead, not only of Chris- 
tian, but of Greek and Roman name. They were purified, 
I suppose, before admitted to this so-called holy place. In 
the cathedral there was posted on one of the pillars a bill 
of “Indulgences,” containing eleven specifications of sins, 
and the terms on which pardon might be obtained. 

Pisa lies on both sides of the Arno, which is here a con- 
siderable stream. There are several good bridges over it, 
the banks are firmly walled up, and a noble walk extends 
along the river. On the whole, Pisa is a good-looking and 
a pleasant place. Some of the best streets had their whole 
breadth covered with large flag-stones, well and smoothly 
put together, as much so as well-laid sidewalks. 

Our visit to Pisa did not allow us much time to explore 


176 


MEMOIR OF 


Leghorn. A canal through the town affords facility in re- 
ceiving and transmitting merchandise : this, with its natural 
advantages, would make it a port of more importance were 
it under a government that would encourage it to make the 
most of its advantages. 

Soon after our return from Pisa we went on board, and the 
steamer started for Civita Vecchia, the port of Rome. This 
is a small place, and has nothing that presents any induce- 
ment even to walk about the town. We were detained a 
few hours at the custom-house and the passport-office, after 
which we set off for Rome. 

Among the annoyances of travelers in Italy may well 
be enumerated the passport system, the porters, the beg- 
gars, and the fleas. 

At almost every town of any size, and always when you 
pass from one state to another, and Italy is full of little 
states, you are called on for your passport, and have usually 
a fee to pay for showing it. Where you stay all night, the 
landlord demands your passport, and reports you to the 
civil authority; where there is a United States consul, you 
are required to call on him and get his signature, for which, 
in Italy, I have commonly paid two dollars. It is rather 
mortifying that we are charged by our own consuls about 
four times as much for their signatures as we are charged 
by the consuls of any other power. Before leaving Paris, 
I was advised to get the signatures of the ministers of the 
European powers, whose territories I might pass through 
on the Continent. I procured those of Geneva, Sardinia, 
Austria, Rome, Naples, and some others ; still, when about 
to go from one place to another, I was obliged to get the 
signature of the resident consul of the state into which I 
was about to enter. In short, the passport system seems 
to have in view, to raise the means of supporting an idle 
set of creatures who act as spies for their rulers. 


y. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


177 


The porters and waiters are very annoying ; and things 
are so managed as to give you occasion to have to do with 
as many as possible. The steamboat, for example, will not 
come up to the wharf, but you must land, or go off, in a 
small boat ; the boatman is to be paid, the man who hands 
your trunk up or down must be paid. So of their voitures; 
the man who drives will not put on the baggage — another 
one does it, and very often he will have a second to hand 
it up to him, and both must be paid. You have often 
three or four to pay where there ought to be but one. The 
division of labor is carried to the utmost extent, and that 
for the purpose of getting as much out of you as possible; 
and when you have given them what is proper, they seldom 
fail to let you know they wish more. 

For instance, at Civita Vecchia we made a special bar- 
gain with a man to take us to Rome for a given sum, which 
was to cover all expenses ; we paid in advance. The car- 
riage drove up — our trunks were at the door. The driver 
sat on his seat, one man handed the trunks to another who 
tied them on, and both demanded a fee. We passed 
through the gate, a soldier looked at our passports, and 
something was to pay; at the half-way house our driver 
and horses were changed, the old driver asked a fee, and 
the new one expected one, and the stable-boy who brought 
out the fresh horses insisted on pay, and a fee they re- 
ceived, for they have learned the full effect which impor- 
tunity is able to accomplish. 

On entering Rome our passports were called for, and our 
trunks taken to the custom-house ; a soldier went with us, 
and we had to pay him. The trunks had been examined 
at the Port and paid for, then sealed up, not to be opened 
till examined at Rome. The sealing was paid for, and 
then another charge made for breaking the seal and re- 
examining at Rome. I had a Bible, a French dictionary, 


i 7 8 


MEMOIR OF 


and several guide-books, etc., in my trunk. The officer 
told me I had better put them in my pocket, as they might 
be taken from me. I did not choose to do this, as I could 
not easily carry them. Finding I preferred leaving them 
in the trunk, he sealed it, but drew up a paper, which I 
had to pay for and sign ; the paper was forwarded by the 
coachman. Arrived, I was told I could not have my trunk 
until the next day. At the appointed time my books were 
looked at ; I was asked if the Bible was for my own use ; on 
saying that it was, it was restored, as were the other books. 
I had, however, to pay for the examination, in addition to 
all the trouble and loss of time in going back and forth. 

The beggars assail you everywhere ; they follow you from 
place to place, and keep up such a clamor that it is not a 
little unpleasant. Begging is a trade, a mode of getting a 
living. Were it only the honest poor, few would hesitate 
to give ; but when it is, as here, connected with idleness 
and vice, when every mode is resorted to to draw as much 
as possible from the traveler, it becomes a question whether 
it be a real charity to give, unless you have more evidence 
of want than arises from the mere application. It would 
seem to have lost a limb or an eye, or to have a sore or 
some bodily defect, was rather an advantage. Such per- 
sons are constantly exposed and paraded before you, their 
sore or mutilated limb laid bare to induce the traveler to 
give. You may often see a stout, hale man or woman lead- 
ing a cripple or unfortunate, and thus engaged in begging. 
Instead of working to support the cripple, they make him 
the occasion of convenience for gaining a living by beg- 
ging. A begging people are always a dirty people, and a 
dirty people are apt to have insects about them of a trou- 
blesome kind. The annoyance is great in Italy from those 
light-footed gentry. They are, I verily believe, to be met 
with almost everywhere — the land is full of them. 


J. D . PAXTON, D.D. 


I 79 


St. Peter’s Church is a magnificent structure of vast 
dimensions. The proportions are admirable, but I could 
hardly persuade myself that it is as large as it is found to 
be by measurement. The grand altar in the center is of 
Corinthian brass, the four-wreathed columns, which support 
the canopy over it, are 122 feet, equal in height to the 
highest palace in Rome. Under this altar are said to be 
the bones of St. Peter. A kind of chapel is made below 
it, a descent 'of eight or ten feet, surrounded with balus- 
ters, and along these, and down the stairs, and across be- 
fore the door of the chapel below, there are about one 
hundred gilded lamps kept burning day and night. 

In a part of the edifice I noticed confessionals for peo- 
ple of various languages, and over the door of the Pan- 
theon, “Indulgences, plenary, daily, perpetual, for the 
living and for the dead.” This inscription is common on 
all the papal churches in Italy. 

I stood for some time in St. Peter’s near the bronze 
statue of St. Peter, to observe the people kiss the foot set 
forward for that purpose. It is a seated figure, against the 
wall near the grand altar, — the feet placed on a marble 
table, about as high as a man’s breast, one foot advanced 
about half over the edge of the table. The toes of this 
foot are much worn away with the perpetual kissing. I 
saw many, priests and people, men and women, come and 
kiss it. They also touched it with their heads; some 
rubbed their heads against it. I shall not attempt a full 
description of this wonderful building, — can only glance 
at what occupied much time in examining. The view from 
the top is certainly most splendid. The top of the edifice, 
with its four or five domes and rooms for workmen, who 
may be said to live there, make it like a village. The as- 
cent is very gradual ; a horse could easily ascend it. I 
stepped round the inside of the dome in the first gallery ; 


i8o 


MEMOIR OF 


it was over 140 yards. Up in the inside of the dome, in a 
ring which extended all round, was written in large let- 
ters the famous passage, “Thou art Peter, and on this rock 
I will build my church, and the gates of hell shall not pre- 
vail against it, and I will give to thee the keys of the king- 
dom of heaven.” There are, in many places throughout 
the building, the symbol of two keys with a crown between 
them. This is the papal seal or coat-of-arms. 

There is much to interest one at the Vatican. Scarlet 
appeared to be a favorite color; the personal guards of 
the Pope had much of it in their uniform; it reminded 
me of the red dragon and the scarlet-colored beast of the 
Apocalypse. 

The Coliseum is a wonderful pile of buildings, partly in 
ruins. The site of the Forum is now covered with earth. 
Excavations show an accumulation of earth fifteen or more 
feet deep. The arch of Severus has been laid bare to the 
old pavement, to this depth. A few pillars of the temple 
of Fortune still remain ; the rest is gone. The triumphal 
arch of Vespasian and Titus still stands, and on it are repre- 
sented the Jewish captives and the holy vessels of the tem- 
ple. The Candlestick, with its seven lamps, is very perfect. 
The Table of Showbread and Altar of Incense are much 
defaced ; the Book of the Law also ; Trumpets not so 
much. The triumphal arch of Constantine is in pretty 
good preservation. The whole of this region is covered 
with ruins — ruins. 

I visited the Capitol, and spent some time in the Mu- 
seum. The statue of the Dying Gladiator is striking. I 
had heard it praised so much, my expectations were too 
much raised — was somewhat disappointed. Near the Capi- 
tol is St. Peter’s prison, about which they have some idle 
tales — show the marble pillars to which he was tied, and a 
hole in the side of the wall, which, if I understood the 


J. D. PAXTON , ; D.D. 


181 


monk, he said, an angel made to let Peter out. The ruins 
of the Baths of Caligula are stupendous. The church of 
St. John Lateran I also looked into in passing, and that of 
St. Maggiore — both superb edifices. The former claims to 
be the first of all churches — has, in some respects, the pre- 
cedence of St. Peter’s. It is highly ornamented, and con- 
tains colossal statues of the twelve apostles. The papal 
palace connected with it is being repaired. Another palace 
of the Pope, on Mount Cavallo, is a large, splendid 
building. 

There are seven Basilican churches — one for each of the 
seven parishes into which Rome was, at an early period, 
divided. The bishops of these, if I mistake not, used to 
elect the Pope ; but, after many changes, he is now elected 
by cardinals, who are from time to time appointed by the 
Pope. The Romish Church, with all its pretenses about 
being always the same, has had many, very many, changes. 

Rode to Tivoli, about twenty miles east, founded by a 
Greek colony four hundred years before Rome. The coun- 
try is level, with no villages or inhabitants. On our way 
we crossed a stream of sulphur water large enough to turn 
a mill. It is of a whitish, milky color, and leaves a white 
sediment, and smells of sulphur. We went up half a mile 
to the lake from which it flows, and which has the same 
appearance. Our guide threw into the lake several large 
pieces of earth, and about a minute after there was a great 
rising of bubbles and a violent boiling over the place where 
the mass of earth sunk. The water was tepid, and reminded 
me of the White Sulphur Springs, Greenbrier, Va. 

Near the foot of the mountain on which Tivoli is situated 
we turned off a few miles to the right, to visit the hill of 
Adrian, now an immense mass of ruins covering three 
miles in length and one in breadth. In the ruined temple 
of Serapis were many niches for statues of the gods, and 

16 


182 


MEMOIR OF 


behind each niche a small room for the priest to be con- 
cealed in who answered for the god and gave responses. 
Olive-trees were scattered over these ruins ; but two houses 
were inhabited, and one of these is, in great part, a modern 
structure. 

Tivoli is about half way up the side of the mountain, on 
a somewhat level plain. At the foot of the mountain the 
olive plantations commence, covering the mountain-side. 
A river comes out of a winding valley, and makes a rapid 
descent of leap after leap. A canal is cut above the first 
cascade and carried around the side of the town next the 
river ; the water is let off in many places into the bed of 
the river, forming fine cascades. There are some mills and 
iron works on these canals ; there is water-power for many 
manufactories, had they but the skill and enterprise to erect 
them. Adjoining one of the cascades is an old temple of 
Vesta, with grottoes below at the foot of the cascade ; the 
grotto communicates with the temple, as is apparent from 
the smoke and fire in the grotto manifesting itself in the 
temple. A fine place for the heathen priests to play on the 
credulity of the people ! 

In the town they show the house of Maceris ; on the op- 
posite side one of Varro and of Horace. 

The Dorian and Borghese palaces in Rome are worth 
seeing. The Borghese gardens are on a large scale, open 
to the public, a favorite drive and promenade ; among the 
groves of trees I saw with pleasure the pitch pine, which 
abounds so much in Virginia and the whole region of the 
Alleghanies. The library at the Vatican palace is very 
nicely arranged in cases, with the index inscribed on each 
case. The rooms adorned with paintings in fresco and 
mosaic. Several of the most interesting churches are out- 
side the gates. ’ That of St. Sebastian covers the entrance 
of one of the catacombs. I did not descend to the tombs. 


J. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


183 

The excavations extend, it is said, as far as Ostium. Prob- 
ably they were originally quarries, like those at Paris. The 
remains of the palace of the Caesars are most stupendous ; 
a fine view of the city may be had from the hill. 

Rome is admirably furnished with water. Fountains are 
seen in all parts of the city, with water issuing from the 
mouths of lions, sphinxes, griffins, dolphins, and all sorts 
of animals and things. 

I have passed two Sabbaths at Rome, — attended the ser- 
vice at the British chapel, both morning and evening of 
the first — a considerable collection of genteel English 
people, and, what seemed a little odd, soldiers stationed 
near the door, I suppose to keep the congregation from 
being disturbed. There is a French Protestant church, 
but I could learn but little about it. Learning that there 
was a Protestant service at the Prussian ambassador’s, I 
went there the second Sabbath. The service in German, — 
had the good fortune to get an introduction to the chap- 
lain, found him an intelligent, pious, and agreeable man, — 
spoke English well. I was surprised to find a crucifix, with 
an image of the Saviour on it, in the church, and several 
candles burning near it. At the close of the sermon a 
child was presented for baptism. The child was not pre- 
sented by the parents, but by sponsors. The water was 
applied to the child three times — first in the name of the 
Father — then of the Son — then of the Holy Ghost. 

I had, through the kindness of a friend, a letter of in- 
troduction to the Prussian ambassador, who is, I was told, 
a Protestant, a pious man, who would be glad to see me. 
My letter had secured me the week previous a very kind 
reception, and an immediate introduction to his lady and 
children. After service the ambassador walked some dis- 
tance on the way to my lodgings, and at parting, kindly 
invited me to call at candle-lighting, and join with him in 


184 


MEMOIR OF 


a family religious service. I called accordingly, and 
found him with his children about him, engaged in read- 
ing and explaining to them some leading articles of the 
Confession of Faith of his church. He and his lady are 
Germans, but speak English so well that they might have 
been taken for English — and even the children spoke 
English with facility; now I saw how it was effected. The 
books they used were German. He would call on a child 
to read in German a few sentences, or a paragraph, if a 
short one. Then they were required to give it in English. 
They evidently had studied the lesson ; if they used the 
wrong word, he pointed out the error, and gave them 
the right one. Having thus had the passage read in both 
languages, he entered into an explanation of the truths set 
forth, and made his remarks bear on the whole matter as a 
thing in which they were deeply interested. They were 
permitted and encouraged to ask any questions that oc- 
curred, and the spirit which appeared to pervade the whole 
was that of a friendly, affectionate conversation on the 
great concerns of their eternal interests. Finding how he 
was engaged when I entered, I would not agree that he 
should discontinue until he had finished. His lady sat 
near, with some of the younger ones fondling on her, look- 
ing on with all the kindness of a mother and a wife beam- 
ing in her face. 

I have found fewer shops open in Rome on the Sabbath 
than in most places on the Continent, and less of the 
common avocations of life going on, but there is much 
walking and going out for exercise and pleasure. 

There are several reading-rooms at Rome — a few English 
papers are received, and occasionally one from France. 
The French papers are not- in good odor with the authori- 
ties. Five or six papers and journals have been started in 
the Pope’s dominions the last year, but they are under a 


y. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


185 

strict watch, and treat but little of government, politics, or 
religion. The Pope is absolute in his government, has no 
written constitution to limit him, — in many things he may, 
if he please, act independently of his cardinals. 

I find an English bookstore here, and in it some of our 
valuable books, as “ Doddridge’s Rise and Progress,” 
“Baxter’s Saint’s Rest,” etc. They are books which say 
nothing against popery; such books are excluded as “Lady 
Morgan’s Italy,” “Rome in the 19th Century,” “His- 
tory of the Vaudois.” 

There are some truths which the Pope won’t allow to be 
told. You may buy a license to commit almost any sin, 
you may get a bill of sins, and thus be able, beforehand, to 
know what sins your purse will allow you to commit ; but 
if you publish all this in a book, it is considered not re- 
spectful to the Pope, and your book will be proscribed ; 
still, by slipping a franc into the hands of the examiner, or 
the custom-house officer, you will hardly fail to obtain 
leave to take what books you please. It requires but a 
moment’s reflection to understand how the system works. 
The Pope has fixed a tariff of indulgences for offenses 
against God, .and employs the priesthood to aid in drain- 
ing money from the people for the liberty to disobey him, 
as far as their inclinations may lead them, and their purses 
pay the expenses. And now, can it be expected that they 
will not, for a consideration , give permission to violate the 
law of the Pope? I believe that, in most cases, if you will 
give money, you may take anything you please to Rome. 
More than hints are given at the custom-house and pass- 
port office, — you are given to understand that a fee will 
make all pass. In short, the system has produced a baneful 
effect on the national character. 

There is a strange juxtaposition of rich and poor, wealth 
and poverty, at Rome. You may see the Pope and his 

16* 


i86 


MEMOIR OF 


cardinals, and the higher clergy, most gorgeously adorned, 
riding in their splendid carriages, rolling in wealth ; while 
everywhere among the lower classes is exhibited all the 
evidences of the most pinching want and squalid poverty. 
The one class has palaces and splendid habitations ; the 
other, hovels too small to contain them, and too filthy 
for human endurance. It would be an error to infer 
that cleanliness goes hand in hand, at Rome, with wealth 
and display. There is a great want of neatness in all 
classes. 

It will naturally be inquired, Do not the poor receive 
much charity from the rich, from the higher clergy who 
roll in wealth and have no families to provide for? Those 
dignitaries are not so free from worldly cares as some may 
suppose, or as their single state would indicate. 

The system of begging is positively a disgrace to the 
Pope and higher clergy. It is a community of beggars. 
If they beg from necessity, it is utterly at variance with 
the spirit of the gospel for the Pope and clergy not to im- 
part to them of their abundance. If they are not neces- 
sitated to beg, then it is a perfect disgrace to the Pope and 
his officials to allow such a shameful exhibition of want, 
such a perpetual and systematic annoyance as strangers 
meet with everywhere in the patrimony of St. Peter. In- 
deed, few things show more strikingly the total absence of 
all nice and fine moral feelings than the exhibitions of 
poverty and filth, the perpetual annoyance from beggars 
of all sorts and sizes, which appear before you wherever you 
go. The streets, the public walks, the churches, the hotels, 
the restaurants, and coffee-houses are haunted with such 
unseemly sights. The government is absolute, — there is a 
great show of wealth in the churches. Why this ? 

Thinking that I might increase my knowledge of Italian 
by reading the Italian Testament, I inquired at four or five 


J. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


187 


of the bookstores without finding one. I was shown at 
one store a large folio Latin Bible, at another a part of 
the Old Testament in Italian ; but the New Testament was 
not in the work. I was told afterward by a Protestant 
gentleman, resident in Rome, that there is an edition of 
the Scriptures, which they profess to allow their people to 
read ; but it is a large work, with many notes, and in several 
volumes, and so high a price as to put it almost as much 
out of the reach of the great body of the people as if it was 
prohibited. Yet this enables them to say, we allow the 
Scriptures to be read by our people. On mentioning to 
the same gentleman that I had not been able to procure 
an Italian New Testament, he told me that several of his 
friends had procured one at such a store, naming it, but, 
said he, it was done rather by way of stealth. They had 
to apply when there was no priest in the store ; by watch- 
ing a time when no priest was near, the New Testament 
could be found. Circumstances have not permitted me to 
renew my effort; but the fact proved two things: — it 
proved that the influence of the priests is known to be 
against the circulation and reading of the Bible ; and fur- 
ther, that the priests can be outwitted even in Rome, the 
center of their power. 

Naples, May 26.— I came from Rome to this place in a 
stage, and was three days in making the journey, using the 
same horses. The road is good, much of it the old Appian 
Way, but now done up in the more modern style. Not 
many years back there was a good deal of danger from 
robbers on this road, and fearful stories are told ; at present 
there is little danger, soldiers traverse the road almost con- 
stantly. At a small town I saw the skull of a man, who 
had been executed for robbery, hung up in a cage, at the 
side of a house on the main street, as a warning to Others 
who might follow the business. 


1 88 


MEMOIR OF 


Many of the valleys and level districts have a rich and 
lovely appearance, and even the mountains are cultivated, 
and laid down in grass, or covered with vines or olive 
orchards. In some places the olive, the orange, and 
lemon, may be seen growing together, — the latter two 
loaded with fruit, in all stages, from that which had only 
lost the blossom to that which was ripe and fit for use. 

Terracina and the ancient Capua were the most important 
towns we passed, both strongly fortified. Capua, judging 
from what I saw of it, is a dirty and uninteresting place, and 
unless it had more attractions than now, one can but wonder 
where Hannibal’s army found the luxuries that corrupted it 
while stationed there. Possibly, in those olden times, things 
may have passed for luxuries which we fastidious folks would 
find much fault with. Possibly, there was as much differ- 
ence between the ancient Capuans and the modern as 
between the ancient and the modern soldier. 

Terracina lies on a very narrow strip of land between the 
Mediterranean Sea and a pretty high, rugged, and barren 
mountain, which, for a considerable distance, skirts the 
coast. The road for some distance has barely room to 
pass along the shore, and at times it is hewn out of the 
mountain. In one place a point of the mountain runs out 
into the sea — the cliff is very high — a strong gate is placed 
here across the road — a fort planted on the rock high above, 
to which a way is hewn in the rock, and defended by a 
strong door — a company of soldiers is kept here — and of 
course all passengers are subjected to an examination. 
Near this, on the Neapolitan side, is a custom-house, where 
trunks and baggage are examined. 

We had an adventure here, which was rather unpleasant 
for the party concerned, and which detained us some time. 
There was in the company, all of which, but one or two, 
were strangers to me, a Roman Catholic priest, who lived 


J. D. PAXTON, P.D. 


189 


at Naples, and had been at Rome on some business, pos- 
sibly to spend holy week, and was now on his return home. 
He was a priest of some distinction in his order — an aged 
and venerable-looking man. He had a good deal of bag- 
gage, not in trunks, but in traveling-bags and bundles of 
various kinds. The inspection of our trunks, etc. did not 
appear to be more strict than usual, nor indeed as much 
so — my books, which had been objected to in the Roman 
states, were hardly noticed — no intimation given that they 
might introduce heresy into the states of his Majesty of 
Naples — even the Bible passed without any objection being 
made. 

In the process of examining, however, they got hold of 
the bags and bundles of the priest, and, for some cause or 
other, they took it into their heads to see what was in the 
middle and at the bottom of his sack, as well as what was 
at the top. They soon found goods that were contraband 
— this led to examining whether there might not be more — 
to open bundles, turn things wrong-side out, pull and haul, 
and make a thorough search. The consequence was, that 
many things were found — they were mixed up with other 
things — scattered in parcels in all his baggage, and in 
truth seemed very considerably to compose it. The priest 
tried hard to divert their attention — tried to excuse and 
explain, and defend and soften them by entreaties, — a 
terrible scolding match took place. The officers tongue- 
lashed the poor old man in no measured style — took the 
forbidden articles from him, declaring they were forfeited. 
Some of the company interceded for him and tried to get the 
things restored, but it would not do — they were carried off 
to the place where forfeited things are deposited, and the 
old priest left to tie up his bags and come on his way with- 
out them — he seemed much mortified. 

The whole affair went to prove one thing — that the 


190 


MEMOIR OF 


Romish priests are not considered infallible, however 
much they may say about the infallibility of their church. 

The Pontine Marshes begin about forty miles from 
Rome, and extend from twenty to twenty-five miles. 
They cover the level district between the mountains on 
the northeast and the Mediterranean on the southwest. 
There is a rising of water along the foot of the mountains, 
and something in the character of the soil prevents the 
water from passing off by percolation. Possibly, the 
ground near the sea may be rather higher than near the 
mountains, and thus a marsh be created. No water is 
seen on the surface ; the road runs, for most of the way, 
through the marsh, very straight ; a wide ditch or canal 
runs along its side, made by the throwing up of the soil to 
elevate the road. This canal has water in it, and near 
Terecena there is a considerable current of water, so much 
so that boats are used on it ; I have seen a man dragging 
a boat on the same plan that the boats on our canals are 
dragged by horses. Small cuts are made into this canal 
from different directions, and the water collected carried 
off by the same outlet. The most numerous and the finest 
looking herds of cattle I have seen in Italy I saw on these 
meadows. They were of a dirty-cream color, and the horses 
were black. 

The district called the Pontine Marshes would, by a 
traveler, who had no previous information on the subject, 
be selected as one of the best between Albano and Capua. 
It looks like a rich, extensive meadow. He would, indeed, 
marvel that while he could see villages at the foot and on 
the sides of the neighboring mountains, not a house, but 
one or two miserable cottages, should be seen on this long 
and wide-spread plain, — a plain waving with grass and 
covered with cattle. He might think this neglect of the 
plain, and this preference for the rough and barren mount- 


y. D. PAXTON ; D.D. 


191 

ain-side, argued a strange way of estimating things, until- 
he learned the cause, until he heard of that dreadful 
scourge of this and other parts of Italy. 

The malaria is a name given to some noxious exhalation 
which is peculiarly fatal to those exposed to its influence. 
The nicest analysis of the air of those districts has not 
discovered the noxious property, while thousands have 
withered and died under the fatal poison. Among the 
districts most affected by it, besides these marshes, we 
may mention an extensive tract around Rome, and the 
plains in the midst of which are the famous ruins of the 
temples of Pestum. Much of the peninsula is believed, by 
some intelligent medical men, to be more or less affected, 
and to be much less favorable to longevity, to good health, 
and sound and hardy constitutions, than some more north- 
ern and less celebrated climes. These plains have a rich- 
looking soil, nothing appears wanting but labor and skill 
to make it pour forth its fruits, and yet it is cultivated but 
in spots. In some places where the ground rises higher than 
usual, you may see a dwelling on it, but as a general thing 
these wide districts are without human habitation. Such 
is the deadly effect of the malaria that even the shepherds 
who lead their flocks there by day, avoid them at night ; 
and for a stranger to spend a night out on these plains during 
the latter part of summer, especially if he should sleep there, 
it would probably cost him his life. And yet over these 
plains you find remains of old ruins. It would seem they 
were not formerly so unhealthy. 

At Pestum, which is now peculiarly desolate, there was 
once a city of considerable extent, surrounded with a strong 
wall, which may be traced most of the way round, and is 
twenty feet high. The ruins there, the most entire of any 
of the old temples of Italy, prove that it was a place of im- 
portance in ancient times ; and yet now so deadly is the 


192 


MEMOIR OF 


effect of the malaria there that I was advised by all means, 
in visiting the place, not to spend the night there, nor to 
go on that plain before the sun had removed the dew, or 
stay after the dampness of the evening had set in. In 
passing over the plain, however, I saw nothing that gave 
signs of sickness; most of the plain was perfectly dry. 
Yea, it seemed too dry, not sufficiently watered. The soil 
of a light and fertile character, and when a portion was 
cultivated, well repaid the labor bestowed on it. True, in 
one small part of the plain, water here and there stood on 
the surface, but not in such quantities as would have taken 
my attention, had I not been on the lookout to find, if I 
could, something to charge with that occult, mysterious, 
but desolating malaria, which reigns w r ith such a blighting 
influence over this fair and wide-spread plain. 

Some have supposed that it is not a modern evil, but 
that whatever it may be, it was always more or less opera- 
ting, and appeal to the old Roman writers in proof that 
these districts were always unhealthy. The passages they 
adduce may prove that the districts were not free from dis- 
ease, but not that they were so dreadfully afflicted with 
such a disease as visits them now. There is much' reason 
to believe there is something noxious generated in these 
districts. 

It is said, with how much truth I know not, that the 
women of Rome have a peculiarly morbid sensibility as to 
certain perfumes which are usually esteemed agreeable ; 
they cannot bear them. Sudden deaths are said to be 
much more common at Rome than in most other countries. 
These, with several other such things, serve to indicate, it 
is thought, that some peculiar cause is operating near Rome, 
and thus spreading desolation. It is very evident that 
many parts of Italy and the vicinity of Rome have given, 
and still give, evidences of having volcanic fires at work 


. 1 


J. D. PAXTON, P.D. 


193 


deep below. Almost everywhere, from Rome to Naples, 
rocks of volcanic origin, or what pass for such, may be 
seen ; and it is not improbable that some subtle agent may 
be disengaged from the disintegrating of those rocks, or 
from the present working of the fires below, which may be 
connected with the noxious influence now termed ma- 
laria. 

Whatever second causes may be used, one thing is very 
manifest — Rome, self-styled Holy Rome, the Eternal City, 
is wasting away — is exhibiting the marks of old age — the 
old age of the profligate. The great city which corrupted 
the earth with her abominations, is to be abandoned and 
deserted and destroyed. Rev. chap. xvii. Rome has 
deeply corrupted religion and persecuted the saints, and 
the day of her punishment must come. 

Extensive fields of luxuriant wheat were passed near 
Capua, and near Naples hemp, flax, and Indian corn were 
growing. Passed some carts loaded with cork, in large 
pieces ; the cork grows in this vicinity, but I could not get 
the tree pointed out. As we approached Naples saw herds of 
hogs, tended by a keeper. The hogs were of a dark-cream 
color, and almost wholly destitute of hair. I have not 
seen or heard a spinning-wheel jn Italy, but on this route 
I have often seen the women spinning flax with the distaff. 
All through this country I have seen as many, if not more, 
women working in the fields than men. We reached Na- 
ples about sundown, in time to have a good view of the 
city by daylight. It lies round the head of a fine wide 
bay, the land rises gently back on one side, and a fort 
crowns a hill that commands the city. Vesuvius lies east, 
in full view, sending up its clouds of smoke. The town 
has more bustle, and a greater throng pours along the 
streets than I have seen since I left Paris. 


i7 


i 9 4 


MEMOIR OF 


After rambling through the town and vicinity for about 
a week, I joined a party that made a tour to the envi- 
rons farther west. Passing the King’s Gardens, we went 
through the tunnel made for the road under the hill Po- 
silipo. It is a third of a mile long, and lighted with 
lamps. We visited several lakes — they probably had been 
craters. Grottoes, baths, and caves are numerous. I can only 
refer briefly to some of them. The Solfatara is manifestly 
an old crater ; the soil is impregnated with sulphur ; smoke 
rises in some places ; much sulphur is manufactured here, 
and the smell of sulphur is oppressive. At Pozzuoli some 
antiquities — remains of an amphitheater, temple of Serapis, 
and village of Cicero ; of the latter nothing remains but a 
few arches and old walls, almost level with the ground. 
The cave of the Sibyl, the descent to the regions of Pluto, 
is a dark, dirty cave, made partly by art, passes under a 
hill, has water in several rooms — some of the floors adorned 
with mosaic. The Baths of Nero, with rooms and passages 
hewn out of the rock ; in the middle a narrow passage de- 
scends forty feet ; smoke and heat in the passage ; at the 
bottom of the passage is a little pool of water so hot that 
it will boil an egg in three minutes. The prison of Nero, 
an extensive ruin, consisting of many dark and under- 
ground passages and rooms, gloomy enough to be called 
the prison of Nero. We explored the Catacombs; thought 
it probable they were excavated for the stone, and after- 
ward used for interment ; a few bones in some niches and 
piles of bones in some rooms. 

yune io. Mount Vesuvius is one of those objects which 
all travelers will of course wish to visit. This I have just 
accomplished, and am much gratified. As our party wished 
to see the mount both by night and by day, we concluded 
to go as far as the Hermitage (a house on the mount, kept 
by a few monks for the accommodation of visitors) the 


J. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


I 95 


evening before, sleep part of the night there, and start 
thence in time to reach the top before day, using torch- 
light. We went as far as Portici in a carriage. This vil- 
lage stands over the ancient Herculaneum, which was 
buried about the same time as Pompeii, near eighteen hun- 
dred years ago. A small part of the town is laid bare, but 
the mass of lava over it is too great to allow much of it to 
be uncovered. A shaft was sunk near the main street of 
the present town, not long since, to the ancient theater. 
It is near eighty feet deep, and much of it through a dense 
and hard mass of lava. Some fime specimens of ancient 
art were found. The excavations were discontinued, as the 
labor was too great. We descended, and could hear the 
carriages running on the street over our heads ; some of the 
old walls and plastering were laid bare, but the place was 
chiefly interesting, as giving a view of the deep mass of 
matter which had rolled over the town. 

At the distance of several hundred yards toward the bay 
another opening has been made. The distance to the old 
streets is only about half what it is at the theater, and the 
mass of lava to be passed through is of a softer character. 
Several houses are uncovered, the walls and floors, the 
rooms, the paved streets, are exposed to view. On the 
walls are a number of paintings, which retain their fresh- 
ness to a marvel, considering how long they have been 
covered, and with matter that was burning hot when it first 
enveloped them. 

At Portici we hired mules, took a guide, and set off. It 
is a gradual ascent, getting more and more steep, and most 
deceptive as to distance. The mount is cultivated, well set 
with vines ; as we were passing the highest vineyards, our 
guide made us notice that the leaves of the vines and trees 
had a scorched appearance, caused, he said, by a fall of hot 
water from. the mount. But whether it was from this or a 


196 


MEMOIR OF 


condensation of the vapor thrown up in such quantities 
from the mount was not certain. 

Some time before we reached the Hermitage we crossed 
a current of lava which flowed from the mountain about 
forty years ago. It was a good deal decomposed, and fast 
yielding to the action of the elements; vegetation was 
taking root on it, and in a few years much of it will be 
overgrown. We had not proceeded much farther before 
we came to a current of fourteen years’ standing; even 
this exhibited marks of decay, — it was crumbling and fall- 
ing to pieces from the action of air, rain, and sunshine 
upon it. Passing these currents, we entered on very old 
strata, forming a considerable ridge, on which the Her- 
mitage stands ; this large mass of old lava is of a soft and 
yielding character, largely made up of ashes, readily pul- 
verizes, has the appearance of a light tufa mixed with sand. 
Shrubs and some small trees were growing on it, and about 
the Hermitage some pretty well-grown trees, which had 
been planted. 

We had been told not to expect anything at the Her- 
mitage but house-room and a little wine. However, we 
obtained some cold meat, and made out to get some sleep 
— some on sofas and others on a long table, on which a 
straw bed was laid. We were aroused a little before day, 
^ and found a soldier, who had come up for our protection, 
and expected a fee for said service ; of course, we paid it, 
and then set off for the top of the mount. About half a 
mile brought us to fresh lava; after winding round and 
traversing various streams of lava, we at last came to the 
foot of the cone. Here the tug of the ascent begins in 
earnest ; all that had passed before is but play ; up to this 
place people usually ride ; we sent our mules back from the 
Hermitage. 

The ascent from this place must be forty to forty-five 


y. D. PAX TO AT, D.D. 


97 


degrees, and the distance very considerable; the surface is 
chiefly made up of what is called ashes ; it is, however, ex- 
cept in color, much like sand. You sink in and slip back, 
as in climbing a steep sand-hill. In some places we found 
solid footing, and everywhere masses of lava, more or less 
imbedded in the ashes. Where you could see these and set 
your foot on them, you might make a good step, but for 
the most part you had to work your way through the ashes, 
or get on the edge of a stream of lava of such a character 
as allowed of your walking on it. We were above an hour 
reaching the summit, and not a little tired. 

We found a considerable level on the top. It had some- 
what the shape of a large, flat basin, the edges raised, like 
a narrow ridge, in some parts to the height of from fifteen 
to twenty-five feet, but parts of those edges broken away. 
At the southeastern part of the bottom of this basin is the 
crater. After reaching near the middle of the level space 
on the top the surface begins to sink, large cracks appear, 
smoke and vapor begin to arise, the surface assumes a 
whitish or yellowish appearance from the sulphur that is 
deposited. Some of these cracks are fearful chasms, re- 
cently formed. Crossing over a number of these, and 
passing round the west of the fearful opening, seen toward 
the east side of the basin, we came to a place where the. 
descetf t to near the edge of the opening was easy ; it was, 
however, considerable. Several large chasms were to be 
passed over, and the portion of surface which lay between 
these cracks, and what might be called the jumping-off 
place, was sunk much from its former level. Having 
reached within a few rods of the edge, most of the com- 
pany appeared not much disposed to go nearer. We had 
a pretty good view of the crater. It was quite irregular in 
form. The smoke came out in huge masses, and from time 
to time in puffs. We could hear a deep and fearful roar- 

17* 


198 


MEMOIR OF 


ing, far, very far below; some of the company thought 
they could see flames mixed with the smoke, — I was not 
satisfied that I saw any. The ground where we stood had 
sunken much and threatened to fall in — the smoke seemed 
to come out from that side. The funnel from the great 
boiler seemed to me choked a little by the sinking in of 
the crust on the one side, without entirely falling in. It is 
to be recollected that only a month or two ago the boiling 
lava rose to the top, filled the basin, and poured its molten 
stream over the sides of the mountain, Carrying away the 
sides of the basin with it. 

Although at first most of the company stopped at a re- 
spectful distance from ^he roaring gulf, yet in less than 
half an hour some went almost to the very edge, although 
admonished by the guide that it was not safe. There was 
but little, if any, wind ; the smoke ascended in a dense 
column, and gave us no trouble. Had the column of 
smoke been suddenly blown on us, when down near the 
edge of the crater, the danger would have been great ; for 
it was so strongly impregnated with sulphur fumes as to 
be wholly unfit for respiration. I had a slight proof of 
this before I left the mountain. After satisfying ourselves 
with looking at the crater, we ascended to the more level 
parts of the top, and rambled, some one way and some 
another, noticing the curious aspects which the lava as- 
sumed at different places. I was separated from the party, 
and in attempting to join them on the eastern part of the 
top, I passed over a space that had many chasms ; I thought 
I could pass in a few seconds, but the chasms and the great 
inequalities of the surface impeded me. The sulphurous 
fumes almost took away my breath — I was near suffoca- 
tion. 

The view from the summit of Vesuvius is very grand. 
When on the promontory of Messina, I thought I must be 


y. D. PAXTON ; D.D. 


199 


on a level with Vesuvius, but now I looked on Cape Mes- 
sina as a little hill away down below. The wide-spread 
bay, the long line of villages skirting its shore, the range 
of mountains to the east, the fine level land north, and the 
sea far off in the southern horizon, are all seen. 

There may be more beautiful, but no more interesting 
objects to a spectator on the top of Vesuvius, than to see 
at one glance, through their whole extent, the many streams 
of lava which have issued from the top and flowed miles 
into the plains below. The more recent streams have a 
singular appearance. The mass that flowed out not long 
since, after reaching the plain, covered about seven hun- 
dred acres of land, besides leaving a large deposit on the 
side of the mount from the time that it crossed the edge 
of the basin that surrounds the crater. It is to be kept in 
mind that lava is rock and earth and metals and all sorts 
of things in a state of fusion, or rather is the lighter part, 
which is thrown off from the immense boiler, where all 
the materials which compose the bowels of the earth are 
exposed to a most tremendous heat. When this scum is 
thrown off from over the heat, and comes in contact with 
cold air and cold earth, the outside will begin to harden 
and refuse to run. The internal mass will still be soft, and 
the great pressure from behind will force the mass along. 
But the part next the ground will be left, or pushed along, 
and thus be forced up in piles. Portions on the sides and 
on the top of the stream will thus cease to flow, and be 
thrown off, or forced along in parcels until its weight will 
not allow it to be carried farther. A stream of it is often 
from three to six feet high, rising not perpendicular, but 
as much so as loose earth could be made to lie by simply 
throwing it up with a spade. Now, why did not the lava 
flow off sideways and seek a level ? The reason, I appre- 
hend, is found in the irregularity of its cooling. I have 


200 


MEMOIR OF 


seen what might be called a very good trench along the 
middle of a stream of lava — the outside losing its fluidity 
first, and stopping while the great mass flowed on farther. 

There is a great variety in the texture, material, color, 
and weight of the lava — some streams differ from others, 
and portions of what flows out at the same eruption will 
differ widely from other portions. This fact shows the 
fallacy of the argument built on the length of time which 
it may have taken for a stratum of lava to become so far 
decomposed as to produce vegetation. Some portions of 
strata may take as many centuries as other parts of the 
same strata may take years. 

We descended on the southeast side of the mount and 
coasted for a long distance the late stream, which flowed 
chiefly in that direction. Some extensive vineyards, re- 
cently planted, appeared where an old stream of lava was 
just becoming capable of tillage. 

It may seem surprising to some, that people should ven- 
ture to live at the foot of a volcano, and cultivate its sides, 
when it is so often pouring out its burning flood, and has 
already destroyed not only their fields from time to time, 
but entirely covered up several of their villages. We are 
to remember that people get used to almost anything; 
even a fiery deluge from Vesuvius by being seen again and 
again becomes divested of much of its terror, and while 
fearful catastrophes have taken place, they are compara- 
tively few and with long intervals between. Every person 
pleases himself with the hope that no such thing will take 
place in his day; or should it happen, he hopes, there will 
be such notice as will enable him to escape. As a matter 
of fact, this is usually the case — most of the eruptions are 
preceded with strongly-marked symptoms — and even in 
cases where villages have been destroyed, most of the 
people had time to escape. 


y. B. PAXTON, D.D. 


201 


To balance the terror of living at the foot or on the 
lower ridges of Vesuvius, it is to be taken into account that 
the situation is most lovely. It directly borders on one of 
the finest bays in the world ; is in full view of Naples, the 
fourth city of Europe ; the climate is uncommonly fine ; the 
heat of summer and the cold of winter are equally modi- 
fied and tempered by the vicinity of such a mass of water ; 
and the soil formed from the decomposed lava intermixed 
with ashes is most congenial for the vine, vegetables, and 
a variety of luscious fruits, and the market of Naples is 
near for their disposal. These are weighty considerations 
for the people, and were they to be obliged to fly from the 
fiery flood every few years, they would no doubt still prefer 
returning to seeking a more safe but less congenial soil in 
a foreign land. 

We descended on the eastern side to visit Pompeii. This 
town covered about 140 acres, and near one-third of it is 
now uncovered. The part of it not yet uncovered is under 
cultivation. The excavations are' going on, but not with 
much speed. I was immediately struck with the fact that 
the matter which had buried Pompeii was not lava but ashes 
— not of a stone-like hardness, as at Herculaneum, but more 
like a bank of old cinders from an iron furnace, and the 
covering was not so deep. The houses were low, of one 
story ; the floors are of stone ; in the best houses the stone 
is cut and laid in mosaic, — that is, marble is cut in small 
pieces, not larger than the nail of your thumb, the edges 
made to fit, and the upper face polished, and then laid in a 
bed of adhesive plaster. Marble of different colors is used, 
and figures of fowls, fishes, and beasts are represented. 
The streets are paved, and the pavement shows the deeply- 
worn track of wheeled carriages ; these tracks are narrow. 
The streets are also narrow. There is the tavern, the 
baker’s shop, the mill for grinding flour, the apothecary’s 


202 


MEMOIR OF 


shop, the painter’s, and mechanic’s, — known not only by 
the signs affixed to them, but also by the fixtures and ap- 
paratus belonging to these several employments. 

Vessels for cooking, similar to those in modern use, are 
found. Glass was in use for windows, where there were 
windows, and for table and other purposes. Some of the 
houses had no way to admit light but by the door, and that 
a narrow one, so low that a person must stoop in entering. 
Many houses had paintings in fresco on the walls — the exe- 
cution of an inferior order; in many cases the objects were 
offensively obscene, and gave a painful view of the state 
of morals among that people. Some of their ornaments — 
and their ladies appear to have been as fond of ornaments 
as ladies are now — are monstrously obscene, wholly too 
much so to be described. 

Most of the curious things that have been found have 
been taken to the museum at Naples. Many of these an- 
tiques are examined with interest by travelers, as showing 
in a new and very certain way the manners and customs, 
and even the morals , of the Romans about the time Chris- 
tianity began to spread and call upon all men everywhere 
to repent ; and all go to prove the dreadful state of morals, 
the abasing and corrupting state of manners and fashions 
which prevailed. Paul, about that time, wrote to the Ro- 
mans his famous epistle, and the account he there gives of 
human nature, and even the darkest traits of the picture, 
as drawn with a stroke (chap, i.), is proved by paintings 
and statues to have been practiced by the Pompeians. 

Oh, how much we owe to the gospel ! How much to 
that blessed book, the word of God ! How thankful that 
our portion was cast in a land where its blessed influence 
has, in some degree at least, purified society, and removed 
from the face of day and the public walks of life those 
shameful exhibitions, — those abominable practices, which 
so debase man and dishonor God. 


y. D. PAXTON , ; D.D. 


203 


In returning from Pompeii we took a boat at the nearest 
point. The passage across this noble bay, in the cool of 
the evening, after a most fatiguing day, was delightful. It 
gave us a fine opportunity to notice the places where the 
streams of lava have flowed down to the shore, and pushed 
forward their dark and red-hot mass deep into the bay. 
What a roaring and hissing it must have made ! What 
clouds of vapor must have gone up from the sea ! 

A friend on my route had given me a letter to Mr. Va- 
lette, a French Protestant clergyman, chaplain to the Prus- 
sian embassy. T found him a pious, intelligent, and most 
agreeable man. He speaks English, but preaches in French 
and German. Whole companies of Swiss Protestant sol- 
diers are stationed here. In the absence of their chaplain, 
Mr. V. preaches at the barracks early on Sabbath morning. 
At times he has a second service at the chapel. Some chil- 
dren, formed into Bible-classes, claim his attention for a 
portion of the Sabbath. He does something in the way of 
distributing the Scriptures and religious books and tracts, 
but has to use much caution, as there is a considerable 
jealousy and watchfulness about such things. Not long 
since a religious tract was printed at the mission press at 
Malta, for an English lady who was at Rome. The copies, 
to the amount of five hundred or more, were shipped for 
Leghorn, but the vessel put into Naples. The tracts were 
seized and burned, and the man in whose care they were 
was annoyed with confinement and trial. 

Something of this sort may be met with, but it will not 
prevent the truth from getting abroad, and it ought not 
to prevent our making daily efforts to impart the truth to 
those who are perishing for lack of knowledge. A great 
obstruction in the way of imparting truth by the press is 
that the great mass of the lower class of people cannot 
read, and all the influence of the priesthood is exerted to 


204 


MEMOIR OF 


keep from them the word of God, and all books which 
tend to open the eyes of the people to the folly, and ab- 
surdity, and wickedness of the system which they have 
substituted for the gospel of our Lord and Saviour Jesus 
Christ. 

I attended service at the Prussian chapel in the morning 
and the British chapel in the afternoon. At the former 
Mr. V. announced a marriage that was soon to take place, 
and requested prayers for a blessing upon the parties. These 
two Protestant churches owe their existence to the embassies 
to which they are attached. 

The next Lord’s day I attended worship on board the 
United States ship Delaware, which, with three or four 
other vessels of the squadron, were lying in the bay. 
Chaplain Jones gave a good discourse. The crew were 
attentive — near 900 men — have been about three years in 
the Mediterranean — they were all clean and neat, and 
nothing could be more so than the ship. The following 
Sabbath, at the request of the captain and chaplain, I 
preached on board. The attention was good. Commo- 
dore Patterson was absent at Rome. 

The Sabbath after I was on board the Potomac, Captain 
Joseph J. Nicholson, and preached to the crew; after 
dinner attended the Bible-class, conducted by Chaplain 
Rockwell, assisted by Mr. Trumbull. I hope these pious 
and faithful efforts will do good. 

The poor-house at Naples is a noble institution, with 
nearly 7000 inmates, — many of them youth. They are em- 
ployed in carrying on various kinds of trades. The place 
is clean for Naples, and care is taken for the morals of the 
inmates. 

Naples receives no little benefit from the resort of 
strangers ; as a general thing, more is demanded of them 
than of natives. Could a person procure a trustworthy 


y. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


205 


native to do all his buying, he would save by it, but the 
misery is, that such cannot be found. I was assured, by a 
conscientious gentleman, who spent most of last winter in 
Italy, and being in feeble health, required a good deal of 
attendance, that he did not find real honesty in Italy. It is 
certain that the habit of taking advantage and overreach- 
ing is shamefully common. The guides and servants are 
usually poor people, and some may think the upper classes 
act better in this respect. Possibly they may, but take a 
fact on good authority. 

An Irish gentleman, who is now here with his family, 
wished to rent a house. The owner of the house having 
heard that this man wished to hire the house, and not 
knowing his person, fell into the mistake of thinking that 
the man who applied was the servant of the gentleman 
who wished to have the house. “Tell your master,” said 
he, “ that he must give $200. But you will want some- 
thing. Do you tell your master that 1 2 40 is the price — 
give me the $200, and keep the $40 for yourself — your fee 
for arranging the matter.” The man who did this was 
of some standing — a banker on whom many travelers get 
letters of credit. Something of this kind of managing 
business pervades society. 

One great festa has passed since I came to Naples, and 
also the king’s birthday, both of which were celebrated 
with much pomp. There was a great procession on the 
festa. The king and royal family attended. They marched 
from one church to another. The priests carried the host, 
the name given to the sacramental bread. It was carried 
under a rich canopy, the king and dignitaries of church 
and state accompanying it, splendidly arrayed. The pro- 
cession marched between two lines of soldiers. The dif- 
ferent orders of the priests had their peculiar dresses and 
distinctions — the crucifix was carried, banners displayed, 

18 


206 


MEMOIR OF 


colors and flags by the dozen were seen flying — everything 
arranged for show — and this is a very great matter with 
them. The processions in honor of a saint are thought 
very meritorious. In truth, the religion of the heart ap- 
pears unknown — the religion that Christ and his apostles 
taught has nothing in it like what passes for religion here 
— the religion of the New Testament, pure and simple, 
passes here for the worst kind of heresy. 

Saint Janarius is the patron saint of Naples. They give 
him credit for the influence they believe he has used in 
preventing Vesuvius from pouring his burning matter as far 
as the city. And that they still expect him to keep a good 
lookout, and to protect them against any stream that may 
happen to flow toward the city, may be inferred from the 
fact, that they have his statue, as large as life, placed at the 
northeast part of the city, on an elevation on the roadside, 
with his face partly turned toward the mountain, as if 
watching ; and his right arm stretched, with the hand open, 
and the palm of it pressed forward, as if to fend off not 
only the lava, but the mountain itself, should it attempt to 
move down and discompose the good people of Naples, 
who have put themselves under his protection. Every- 
where in Italy you see and hear the Virgin and saints more 
honored than the true God and Jesus Christ the only 
Mediator. 

Concerning the liquefying of the dry blood, attributed 
to this Saint Janarius, a friend relates the following : While 
the French were here they wished to witness the miracle, 
but were told, by the priest who had the matter in charge, 
that it was impossible, it was not the time; but the French 
officer replied that if it was not done in an hour the 
saint should lose his head (that is, his statue). The miracle 
was wrought ; and who would blame the saint for putting 
himself a little out of his ordinary course of wonder-work- 


J. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


207 


ing to save his head ? The opinion among intelligent Prot- 
estants who have recently seen it is, that a red mixture is 
in the vial, which coagulates, but which the natural warmth 
of the hand will bring back to a liquid state. The priest 
holds the vial in his hand, rubs his hand over it, perhaps 
kisses it ; and, after some lapse of time, and a good deal of 
working and rubbing of the vial, the mixture does liquefy, 
or is declared by the priest to have become liquefied. 

It is really a matter of wonder that such tricks are per- 
mitted by the more intelligent of the priesthood to be 
played off, amid all the light that now shines. The evil 
done to religion by such shallow pretenses is enormous. 
The thinking part of the community, not possessed of that 
information which enables them to distinguish the true 
from the false, the well-authenticated facts and miracles 
of the Bible from the tricks and pretenses of the priests, 
reject all and become infidels. 

This mention of the French, and their way of doing 
things, brings to mind a fact reported as having taken 
place at Rome during their rule. They were a sad set of 
fellows, and yet I can hardly regret some of their doings, 
and almost wish their rule had been prolonged a few years 
more in Italy, under the strong impression that with all its 
evils it would have left the country in a much better con- 
dition than it is now in. Their power is said to have 
pressed heavily — possibly it did, but it was pressing things 
into a much better form than they had before — their rule 
had many redeeming properties, which may in vain be 
looked for in the systems now in operation. 

But to the fact at Rome. The French were in the habit 
of rummaging churches, looking at and under and behind 
things — yea, taking hold of things and handling them — 
even the most precious things they met with ; and it is said 
that not a few stuck to their hands and wholly disappeared 


208 


MEMOIR OF 


from the churches — many a golden and silver candlestick, 
many adamantine hearts, and so on. It was not to be sup- 
posed that St. Peter’s, which everybody visits, would not 
be looked into and examined by these inquisitive gentry. 
There is a famous gilded chair, said to have been the seat 
of the Apostle Peter, and left to be the seat of his succes- 
sors. It is placed against the wall at the west end of the 
church, over against the great altar, covered with a splendid 
canopy, and surrounded with other things to make it doubly 
imposing — it is appealed to as a kind of matter-of-fact proof 
that Peter was Bishop of Rome. See there the episcopal, 
or rather papal chair he had made and used, and left to 
his successors to be thus used — a kind of knock-down argu- 
ment this ! The chair is certainly there, and a very rich 
and splendid one, and the church has decided that it is 
Peter’s chair, and the church is infallible, and here, it is 
said, ought to be the end of the matter. 

Well, the French, sad fellows as they were, having got 
into the habit of doubting and disbelieving things, — which 
they would have been the better for believing, — appear not 
to have believed all that was said about this chair. They 
looked not only in it, but under it and behind it ; and what 
should they find but an Arabic inscription on the back of 
it, containing the name not of St. Peter, but Mohammed. 
What a tale to get out ! In what an awkward position would 
it place the future Pope, if it were known that he was occu- 
pying the chair of Mohammed instead of that of St. 
Peter ! 

Means were used to have the chair replaced with its back 
against the wall — the story was hushed up — and might have 
been forgotten had not Lady Morgan put it in a book. The 
Pope put the book in the list of prohibited ones. What 
more could he do to keep the story from spreading ? The 
inscription may have disappeared before now. 


y. D. PAXTON ; D.D. 


209 


The squadron, which has been for several weeks in the 
bay, being about to sail for Malta, through the kindness 
of Captain Nicholson and the commodore, I was tendered 
a passage on board the Potomac. We passed the straits 
between Sicily and Italy. The captain sent a boat on 
shore at Messina; I had a place in it. We went through 
the whirlpool called Charybdis; from the nature of the 
currents and the shore there is an irregularity in the cur- 
rent at this place. At a certain state of the tide, for there 
is a little tide, there may be more agitation of the water 
than we saw. The imagination of the ancients made it a 
dangerous place. There is no danger ; we passed through 
it in going from and to the ship. 

We passed Stromboli; it is a round mountain with a 
small population on its sides ; the fire is seen flaming out 
of the top every few minutes. 

Mount Etna is a most stupendous mass. The valleys and 
top on the north side are covered with snow — much of the 
mount is bare — no fire or smoke visible. The whole face 
of the country in Sicily and the South of Italy, as seen 
from the sea, is mountainous. Fertile spots on the sides of 
these mountains appear to be well cultivated, as seen through 
a glass from the deck ; but the villages are few, population 
sparse. The squadron being destined to Tripoli, and the 
wind unfavorable for a nearer approach, I left the Potomac 
twelve miles off Malta, landed at Valetta, and put up at the 
Clarence Hotel. 


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CHAPTER VI. 

Malta — History — People — Saint Lucia’s Festival — Santa Agatha’s 
Veil-Legends — Festa del Bara— Baptism of a Dead Child — Many 
Languages — Opposition to the Bible — The Chaplain’s Ball — Even- 
ings on the House-top — J. Wolff and Lady Georgiana — Society — 
Miraculous Cures — Casting out a Devil — Observatory — Monks — 
Proclamation of Don Carlos — Christmas — An Admission — Levee — 
Fasting. 

M ALTA, June 27, 1835. — The Island of Malta lies 
about midway between Italy and Africa, about fifty 
miles from the southern point of Sicily. It is twenty miles 
long and twelve broad, and at its west end, separated by a nar- 
row channel, is another small island called Gozo, considered 
as belonging to Malta. These islands have been originally 
a solid rock — and not much removed from that at present. 
The rock is a soft sandstone, some of it is destitute of soil. 
I am told that which is now spread over the fields has been 
brought from abroad. Most of it, no doubt, has been de- 
rived from the decomposition of the rock on the surface. 

It would seem that forests have never covered these 
islands. The very few trees seen are fruit and ornamental 
trees. Some gardens have a variety of fruits and shrub- 
bery. A stranger looking from some house-top would say 
it was nearly destitute of vegetation. The whole surface 
is cut up into small lots averaging from four to six acres, 
and sometimes less, inclosed in high stone walls. I could 
not imagine what gave the people such a passion for stone 
walls, and learned that they were to protect vegetation 
from the violent winds which often sweep over the islands, 


J. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


21 1 


and break down, or whip in pieces, the young plants where 
they have no protection. 

Figs, oranges, lemons, apricots, and grapes grow under 
the shelter of these walls ; and cotton, and grain of differ- 
ent kinds, are cultivated. 

Malta, we read, was first occupied by the Phoenicians, 
and at an early day became a placg of some trade. The 
Romans had possession of it in the time of St. Paul. 
There is another island, of the same name, at the mouth 
of the Adriatic, and some writers adduce reasons to show 
that that island, not this, was the one on which the shipwreck 
took place. The evidence, to me, is in favor of this as 
the one where Paul wintered. It was then under a chief 
called Publius. After various changes, which we need not 
follow, it came into the possession of Charles V. of Spain, 
who gave it to the Knights of St. John, about the year 
1530, a few years after that order was forced from Rhodes, 
by the Sultan Soliman, after a most desperate defense. 
The Turks made two desperate attempts to drive them 
from Malta. The last, in 1565, was one of the most famous 
sieges in modern times. The Turks lost about 25,000 men 
and the Knights from 7000 to 8000. The Turks at last 
broke up the siege. From this period the character of the 
Knights began to degenerate. In 1797 the French, under 
Bonaparte on his way to Egypt, took possession of the 
island. After the defeat of the French in Egypt, and the 
destruction of their fleet, the English laid siege to Malta; 
after a gallant defense they took it in 1800, and no doubt, 
from its importance, -will hold it as long as they can. 

The chief town, Valetta, is strongly fortified. It lies on 
the northeast side of the island, and has two harbors, sepa- 
rated at their outlet to the sea by a narrow tongue of rock, 
which is mounted by a stupendous fort. The mouths of 
these harbors are very narrow, but have ample water. 


212 


MEMOIR OF 


Within they have much room, divided into branches sepa- 
rated by high points of rock, all covered with strong forts. 
On the land side there is wall behind wall, and ditch be- 
hind ditch, several times over. There is a well-furnished 
navy yard, and a large body of British soldiers. 

The Maltese, in appearance, are like the Neapolitans and 
Sicilians. Their color, the black, coarse hair, and idle, 
careless look, forcibly reminded me of our western Indians. 
The dress of the Maltese differs little from the common 
English mode. The women wear the faldette instead of 
the bonnet. This is made of a large piece of black silk, 
gathered up at one side just above the shoulder, with some- 
thing stiff run in the edge which crosses over the forehead, 
preventing its falling on the face. It is thrown over the 
head, hanging loosely behind to the waist ; with one hand 
the corners are held in front. The face is not concealed 
by it. It is very becoming — much more so than calashes 
and sun-bonnets. Some of the young Maltese ladies have 
put on bonnets, and have even worn them to church ; but 
this gave offense to the priesthood, and the bishop issued 
an order that the Roman Catholics should not wear the 
bonnet to church, but keep to the good old faldette. 

Valetta is a well-built city, with great uniformity and 
regularity in the height and construction of the buildings. 
The window-sash and blinds and the doors of the houses 
are of wood ; all else is of stone, mortar, and iron. The 
roofs are flat ; the side walls carried up so as to form strong 
balustrades. This affords a fine opportunity for taking the 
air, and the inmates resort to the roof, in the cool of the 
evening, for a promenade. Balconies project in front from 
the upper stories, where ladies may be seen with their work 
and gentlemen with books. The streets are of good width, 
well paved, and kept neat and clean. 

When in Naples I thought the people the most noisy I 


J. D . PAXTON, D.D. 


213 


had ever been among ; I doubt now whether they exceed the 
Maltese. I occasionally visit a public library and reading- 
room near the palace of the Grand Master. Back of this 
reading-room there is a street where there are not only 
many shops but a number of stalls and frames where goods 
are exhibited for sale, and it is really a matter of wonder 
to hear the din and confusion of voices which come up 
from that place. They are almost as bad in the street 
where I room, although not a business part of the town, 
and but few things to draw noisy people ; yet, as if they 
would by simply bawling force effect a sale of their arti- 
cles, they will often for hours keep up such a vociferation 
that I am not a little amazed. I have seen nothing to jus- 
tify the opinion that they are a revengeful and ill-natured 
people, as they are reported. Since coming under British 
authority, they have found that crime will be followed by 
punishment, and that some of their old-established ways of 
escaping will not avail them. A few years ago a Maltese 
committed murder and took refuge in the Church of St. 
John, claiming the protection of the priests. When de- 
manded, the priests refused to give him up. The Governor 
renewed the demand; it was refused. Knowing that he 
had to brave an old prejudice — to break up an old pre- 
tended right — he put the troops under arms, paraded them 
before the church, with a field -piece or two, and renewed 
his demand, with the assurance that if the villain was not 
at once given up to be punished, he would batter down the 
church over his head and that of his protectors. He was 
given up, and no attempt made since to evade justice in 
that way. 

They, however, often try to protect each other by testi- 
fying to their innocence. A gentleman lately detected a 
fellow making a noise to disturb a Protestant congregation. 
He caught and held him until the police took him in 


214 


MEMOIR OF 


charge. At his trial before a magistrate for his offense, a 
priest came forward and swore that the accused was at the 
time specified confessing to him. 

It is very common at Malta, in the warm weather, for 
persons to take a loll in the middle of the day. In walk- 
ing the streets about that time, hundreds of the poorer 
people — the porters, the idlers, the market and fruit men 
and women — are to be seen lying in the piazzas and on the 
shady sides of the streets — at some sequestered spots little 
congregations of them. But this is not all, — I have seen 
many of them, as late at night as I have been out, lying on 
the cold, hard pavement, asleep. Sometimes they have a 
mat to lie on, but very often have nothing but the scanty 
clothes that they wear by day. Many of their rooms are 
cellars, or small and badly ventilated, and must be uncom- 
fortable in midsummer, and this may induce them to pre- 
fer the street. The case is very much the same in Naples, 
where thousands have no houses, but sleep wherever they 
can find a place. Perhaps this is the case in all warm 
countries. “Man wants but little here below,” etc. It 
appears rather strange to see people growing up and living 
to old age without having owned either bed, sheet, or 
blanket. 

We have had a fair sample of the sirocco. For three 
days the wind came from the south, loaded with dust. 
However close you might shut the windows and doors, it 
would penetrate. The degree of heat was not over 90°, 
and did not affect me unpleasantly. 

There is much trade between Sicily and Malta. A large 
part of the vegetables, fruit, and grain used in Malta is 
brought from Sicily. That island has great advantages as to 
soil and productions, and were it under a good government 
it would be one of the most desirable spots in the world. 
But now, from all that I hear, it is as low, both as to edu- 


J. D. PAXTON, P.D. 


2I 5 


cation, improvement, enterprise, morals, and religion, as it 
well can be. It is one of the darkest spots in Europe. I 
have now before me the journal of a naval officer, from 
which I will make a few extracts showing how things are 
done by the Papists in Sicily. 

My first extract is from his account of the festa of Santa 
Lucia, the patron saint of Syracuse. 

“The day of her martyrdom is observed as a festival, 
which is conducted with all the superstitious pomp and- 
idolatrous worship that ever characterized the religious ob- 
servances of heathenism. A silver statue of Santa Lucia, 
preserved in the treasury of the cathedral, is on this day 
borne in solemn procession to the church, where it is de- 
posited a certain number of days for public worship. 
Crowds rush round her altar — their sympathies are excited 
— their charities extracted — men and women, according to 
some previous vow, made in sickness or in sorrow, walk 
from the town in barefooted pilgrimage, to adore her. 

“We witnessed the festival and its ceremonies, and the 
procession, which positively seemed more calculated to 
provoke the ludicrous propensities than to inspire religious 
feelings. The silver image, covered with tinseled drapery, 
mounted on a platform, was borne on the shoulders of four 
men, preceded by a military band of music, and followed 
by the ecclesiastical dignitaries in a vehicle very much like 
a dilapidated, cast-off mayor’s state-coach of the last cen- 
tury ; a second carriage conveyed the civil and military 
authorities, while a jumbled mass of priests, monks, friars, 
soldiers, and citizens formed an endless train in the rear ; 
and such was the conduct and appearance of the ensemble 
that Catholic, Protestant, Greek, and Jew who were among 
the spectators around me exclaimed with surprise at the 
existence of such rites in a Christian country of the nine- 
teenth century. If I had been transported again among 


2l6 


MEMOIR OF 


the fetich ceremonies of Dahomey, greater paganism could 
not have been exhibited. 

“Records are preserved, at the convent of San Nicoli, 
of all the eruptions of Etna, blended with a few marvelous 
traditionary tales, savoring much of monkish trickery. 
One in particular interested me, since it explained the 
origin of a delusion that is practiced on the bigoted and 
ignorant of the modern population of Catania — namely, 
the bearing, in cases of public calamity, such as famine, 
awful eruptions, or plague, in procession, the veil of the 
patroness Santa Agatha, which is warranted, by the rules of 
priestcraft, to stay the one or direct the course of the other. 
The fiction states that 4 a.d. 254 a stone was ejected, during 
a great eruption, from the mount, containing a Latin in- 
scription, which fell on the tomb of Agatha. The priests 
and people of Catania, moved by such a miracle, imme- 
diately opened the sepulcher, took out the veil that envel- 
oped the body, and carried it in front of the burning lava, 
which suddenly changed its direction, and left the city in 
safety.’ Hence, then, all the folly, mummery, and bigotry 
excited by this veil which is enshrined in the cathedral of 
Catania. 

“The cathedral of Messina is consecrated to the Virgin 
Mary. The circumstance which caused her to be pro- 
claimed patroness of the city was a monkish legend to the 
following effect : 4 St. Paul, arriving at Messina, was per- 
suaded to return to Jerusalem with an embassy from the 
city to the Virgin, which being favorably received, he 
brought back an answer to the citizens, written by herself 
in Hebrew, accompanied with a lock of her hair, the for- 
mer of which was lost during the Saracenic invasion, but 
restored in 1467 by a Greek monk, in a literal copy, which 
is to this day preserved in the treasury of the cathedral, 
while the lock of her hair constitutes one of the sacred 


J. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


217 


relics of the chapel on the left of the altar ; and such is 
the superstitious credulity of the great bulk of the Mes- 
sinese, that whoever doubts the fact is denounced as a her- 
etic and an infidel. 

“The festival of the assumption is now called the Festa 
del Bara, from the gorgeous machine of that name, which 
constitutes the most attractive part of the puppet-show. It 
stands between forty and fifty feet high, embellished with 
angels, clouds, cherubim, and a variety of other objects 
grouped up to typify the assumption of the Virgin, all of 
which is surmounted by a blasphemous incorporation of 
the Almighty, holding forth a tawdrily decorated female 
figure, intended to represent the soul of the Virgin. The 
parts which form the center — namely, a bright, radiated 
sun and blue globe studded with golden stars — are kept in 
motion by revolving machinery, as the procession moves 
along the streets, while on the platform of the base the 
apostles are personated by twelve Messinese children, sur- 
rounded by a choir chanting hymns over the tomb of the 
Virgin. A band of music, with religious as well as mili- 
tary banners, precedes this holy pageant, accompanied by 
all the constituted authorities of the city in full costume, 
followed by nearly the whole population of Messina.” 

This is Papacy in Sicily, where especial care is taken to 
exclude the Bible. We shall see if its influence is any 
better on this island. 

A church was pointed out to me as the one to which, at 
certain times in the year, the Maltese take their mules and 
donkeys and have them sprinkled with holy water and 
blessed ; a feast or frolic is made of it. They attach much 
importance to it, believing it keeps off disease and ac- 
cidents. 

I am sorry to say that the British authorities*give but too 
much countenance to many of these follies. I know not 

19 


218 


MEMOIR OF 


that it would be right to forcibly suppress them, but as an 
enlightened Protestant government, it ought not to sanction 
them by giving aid. A few years ago two officers, who 
were Protestants, were commanded to fire a salute in honor 
of some of these superstitious and idolatrous ceremonies ; 
they petitioned against it as a thing they could not con- 
scientiously do ; they were arraigned for disobeying orders, 
tried, and broke. 

The other evening I took tea with an English family ; 
the lady of which appeared to be truly pious. She informed 
me that a good many years ago she and family were at 
Cadiz, in Spain. Her infant became sick and died. 
There was no Protestant burying-ground, and she applied 
to have it buried in the common burying-ground, but this 
was objected to on the ground that it was a Protestant’s 
child. A priest told her that if she would allow him to 
open the coffin and baptize the dead child he would have 
it buried in the church-yard, but on no other condition. 
She, as most persons would in such a situation, let the 
priest baptize it, knowing it was only a superstitious notion 
of his. 

Many of the Maltese poor have no other way to obtain 
a living than to serve in Protestant families. The priests 
therefore direct their efforts to prevent those servants from 
receiving correct ideas on the subject of religion. They 
forbid their attending family worship, oppose their hearing 
the Scriptures read, make them give up the Scriptures 
which may have been given them. They have passed a 
regulation that every person in the employ of Protestants 
shall pay annually a small sum of money, that they may 
have an interest in the prayers of the church to protect 
them against the evils arising from being with Protestants. 

An attempt was made, not long since, to have regular 
preaching in the Methodist chapel to the Maltese, for the 


y. D. PAXTOJV ; D.D. 


219 


special purpose of converting them from their error. Some 
attended, which excited the wrath of the priesthood. They' 
made an attempt to interrupt the worship, and it was be- 
lieved, were about to break the windows when the police 
prevented. There is a family apartment in the same build- 
ing as the chapel, occupied by a Protestant family. The 
house is under an interdict, so that no Roman Catholic 
servant can be had to live in the family. In this way they 
show their resentment for attempts to convert them. 

To a person who has lived where but one language is 
spoken, it is strange to find everybody around them speak- 
ing two or more languages. Hundreds of children grow 
up here in Malta with the knowledge of several languages, 
almost without knowing how they acquired them. Many of 
the servants, boatmen, and porters speak Maltese, Italian, 
and English. Those in the upper circles are acquainted 
with four or five languages. 

A few days past, wishing to take lessons in Italian pro- 
nunciation, I sent for a good teacher; he called, and we 
came to the usual understanding. I preferred reading in 
the Bible for a few lessons. He hesitated at reading in 
that book, and expressed his preference for some other 
book. I told him I had not the books he specified, and 
thought it hardly worth while buying them for the short 
time I expected to take lessons. He yielded so far as to 
read part of a chapter in the New Testament ; but the next 
day sent me a note, that he was not permitted to give les- 
sons in the Scriptures, and, moreover, he was not allowed to 
come to my room to give lessons. I am now staying with 
Rev. S., in the mission-house, where there are printing- 
presses and deposits of Protestant books. It is considered 
profane ground, and a good Papist will not, if he can help 
it, set foot on it. 

Another more singular fact of opposition to the Bible 


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was stated to me. Rev. R. made some attempts to read 
the Scriptures to some poor beggar women. He had a set 
time for giving them alms — took them into his house and 
read a portion before he imparted to them his alms. It 
was soon known, and great offense taken by the priests and 
those under their control. A disposition was manifested 
to mob Mr. R., but this was prevented; they, however, 
stoned his house and broke his windows. While the ex- 
citement was up, Mr. R. had occasion to cross the harbor. 
On leaving the boat, he laid down on the seat a very 
liberal payment. But the boatman would not touch it, 
coming from such a heretic, and positively took a stick 
and pushed it into the sea. 

This place has two chaplains, one for the army and one 
for the civil department and other English residents. One 
is now absent on account of health, the other performs the 
duties of both. How they are performed one may judge 
from the following facts : 

Some ten days past the chaplain had a large party. A 
particular friend of mine was invited, and went. Most of 
the fashionables were there. The party continued until 
much past midnight. Amusements of various kinds were 
introduced, and, among others, dancing ! My friend did 
not know that it was to be a party of that sort when he 
went. Finding that things were taking such a turn, he 
meditated an escape — was detected in it by the clergy- 
man’s lady, who rallied him not a little for his strict 
notions, and tried to engage him in a dance. He was a 
missionary. 

Wishing to know how far his public teaching went with 
his example, I resolved to hear him preach on the follow- 
ing Sabbath. At nine o’clock he had a noble congrega- 
tion of soldiers. They are obliged to attend, and are 
marched to the church with military music. He read part 


y. D. PAXTON ; Z>.Z>. 


221 


of the Episcopal service. Took part of the parable of the 
Good Samaritan for his text, and spoke about ten or 
twelve minutes. His remarks were wholly on the duty of 
being kind and charitable, of doing good to our fellow- 
men, and that thus we would please God, that not to be 
compassionate would be to sin and offend the Most High. 
“ Precepts of the gospel ” was once used, but nothing said 
that necessarily suggested the idea of our fallen state, the 
redemption through Christ, or the change that must take 
place on man through the operation of God’s grace ; in 
short, there was no gospel in it, and as good a moral lec- 
ture might be found among the pagan moralists. Poor 
food, thought I, for these soldiers who are exposed to all 
sorts of vice, and need the full power of gospel truth to 
change, reform, and save them. 

I followed him to the church, where the citizens came to 
receive their Sabbath-day’s spiritual food; but few came for 
it. His text was II. Kings, xix. 14 and 15, where Hezekiah 
received an abusive and blasphemous letter from the king of 
Assyria and spread it out before the Lord. The passage is a 
fine one, and I did hope he would give us something worth 
hearing. After a few preliminaries, the bearing of which I 
did not well see, he applied the text by way of accommoda- 
tion to the state of the Episcopal Church in England and 
dependencies. The poor church, so pious, so excellent, so 
apostolical, like Hezekiah, was truly beset by enemies, who 
reviled, and abused, and labored to destroy her. He waxed 
warm on this matter — much more so than on the subject of 
the Samaritan. He represented the Established Church as 
the church of God, and was equally indiscriminate in rep- 
resenting all who were troubling it, although only to reform 
its abuses, as the reproaching and opposing enemies of the 
church. His subject gave him warmth, and he spoke twice 
as long as he did to the soldiers. It gave him more voice; 

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222 


MEMOIR OF 


on the animating theme of defending the establishment he 
was heard by most in the church, while at the other church 
a large part could not have heard him. 

He has been here many years as chaplain. As to the 
advantages of an establishment that fills such places with 
such men all may judge. The religious privileges of the 
soldiers would be decidedly better had they no chaplain, 
provided no obstructions were put in the way of evangelical 
men preaching to them. Now they are obliged to attend 
the ministrations of the chaplain ; other preachers are not 
allowed to visit the barracks and forts or hospital and 
preach, without his permission, and that is not given ex- 
cept they belong to the establishment. Soldiers may attend 
other churches, but it is not always that facilities are given. 
Three hours of duty, etc. may prevent. 

A Neapolitan vessel of war has just sailed from this port. 
The officers, in visiting a Protestant family, made many 
inquiries about the doctrines held by the Protestants, and 
wherein they differed from the Romanists. Information 
was freely given. The result was that when the vessel was 
about to sail, at the request of the officers, five or six 
copies of the Scriptures were procured for them from the 
Bible Depository, — the officers expressing a fear that the 
books would be taken from them, but hoped not. “A 
little leaven leaveneth the whole lump.” 

The island of Gozo, about twenty miles round, contains 
a population of 17,000, all natives, with the exception of a 
few British families and a small company of soldiers. The 
knobs, capped with rock, scattered over the island, give it 
a singular appearance. At the north, a very high rock 
stands off a little from the island, with nothing of interest 
except that a peculiar fungus grows on it, possessing medi- 
cal properties, and extensively used throughout Europe. 
The most remarkable thing in Gozo is an old ruin called 


y. D. PAXTON , j 


223 


the Giant’s Tower. It stands on the top of one of the 
knobs, made of enormous stones, put together in their 
natural state without the use of mortar. At the entrance 
and altars — for it appears to have been a temple — some 
stones have been smoothed, but neither axe nor hammer 
have touched those that compose the building. Antiqua- 
rians are wholly at fault about its origin. 

I must mention the grotto of Calypso, of which we have 
so pretty an account in Telemachus. There is one other at 
Malta, but that at Gozo is most visited. There they say 
Calypso detained Ulysses several years, while he would 
much rather have been with his wife in Ithaca. The grotto 
is a poor, miserable hole of a place, not worth seeing. It 
is all a fable ; the whole story of its invention, I am as- 
sured, is as follows : Mr. , being disposed to have a 

joke, asked a priest where in Gozo was Calypso’s grotto? 

The priest said he had never heard of any. Mr. said 

it must be there, for Gozo was the island on which Ulysses 
made the stay. The priest thought and thought, and at 
last said he thought he recollected, when a boy, that his 
grandfather had said something about it. He presently 
fixed on the cave and called it the grotto ; and now it is 
put down on the maps, and all travelers must see it. So 
much for the way old places are identified. 

During the summer there is no rain in Malta. Occasion- 
ally a dark cloud may be seen, and a few drops of rain may 
fall, but for the most part the sky is clear by day and night. 
If the glare and heat of the sun be great, it is compensated 
by the beauty and freshness of the night. The starry heav- 
ens are most lovely, and when seen from the tops of the 
houses, with the wide-spread horizon, bounded on all sides 
by the meeting of the waters and the sky, in the far dis- 
tant prospect, the scene is enchanting. I am in some dan- 
ger of falling in love with the eastern mode of building, at 


224 


MEMOIR OR 


least as to the roofs and terrace on the top. Few things 
are more pleasant than, at the hour of the setting sun, to 
ascend to the terrace, where the roof, as smooth as a floor, 
gives you a long and safe walk — the battlements at the side, 
some two or three feet high, giving security against falling 
over, and here, with a friend or alone, to drink in the cool 
air, to gaze on the wide-spread scene, and the clear blue 
vault above, and receive the kind greetings of acquaint- 
ances who, from the tops of the neighboring houses, are. 
enjoying the same pleasures. 

But I have forgotten the rains. About the last of Sep- 
tember or the first of October there is usually much rain. 
It is rather a quick succession of showers, many of them 
very heavy, than a continued fall of rain. These showers 
are now frequent, and the cisterns are replenished. 

Lady Georgiana Wolff has been a resident of Malta for 
several years. She was a Walpole, a very ancient and 
honorable family among the nobility of England. She is, 
I hope, a truly pious lady ; having received, perhaps, those 
opinions about the literal return of the Jews and the per- 
sonal reign of Christ held by many in Europe. She very 
seldom makes these subjects of conversation, but manifests 
more interest in those which concern the spiritual kingdom 
of Christ as set up in the hearts of his people. 

She owns a handsome property, but owing, perhaps, to 
the fact that her marriage was not wholly with the wishes 
of her friends, Mr. Wolff does not use these means in his 
expensive travels. Lady G. is a very well-informed woman, 
and has moved much in the best of society. She has trav- 
eled a good deal in the countries around the Mediterra- 
nean, with her husband. At Cyprus, Egypt, and Jerusa- 
lem she has spent some time. She is familiar with four or 
five languages. She is fond of Malta, and is very useful. 
The Maltese are rather an improvident race, I fear. They 


y. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


225 


are poor and ignorant, and the island is overstocked 
with people for the business of the place. There is, of 
course, much suffering, especially in winter. There are 
several charitable societies, supported mostly, but not ex- 
clusively, by the English, which give much relief. Lady 
Georgiana takes a very active part in these societies, and 
expends an amount of time, labor, and means that few 
have the ability to do. Truly, the blessings of many who 
were like to perish must come upon her. It is pleasing to 
see the great of this world thus coming forward and exhib- 
iting an example of Christian charity. 

Lady G. is about the usual height, but somewhat fleshy — 
her complexion is fine, her face an interesting one, and 
quite expressive — is intelligent, well read, cheerful, and, at 
times, full of anecdotes, and very pleasant company. She 
has one lovely little boy. May the Lord preserve him ! 

The families with whom I have become acquainted 
would be an acquisition to any circle ; some of them, in- 
deed, of peculiar interest. Many of them are connected 
with the army and navy, and as these are moved from 
station to station every few years, families may be found 
who have lived in various parts of the world, — the East and 
West Indies, Greece, Corfu, Egypt, and Gibraltar. I was 
not a little interested the other day while dining with Gen. 
W., to find that Mrs. W. was a personal friend of Henry 
Martyn; that he used to preach in her father’s house, at 

C , in the East Indies, and that he baptized some of 

her children. She gave me several anecdotes about him, 
and spoke in the warmest terms of his piety. 

The subject of miraculous cures has excited much in- 
terest in England of late years. I have been reading a 
publication stating the cases of persons hopelessly crippled, 
lame, confined to the bed, suffering acute pain for a long 
time, etc., suddenly cured and restored to health and the 


226 


MEMOIR OF 


use of their limbs by faith in God in answer to prayer. 
The cases are attested by persons of distinction,— two 
clergymen of the Church of England, eminent physicians, 
and others. Sir Astley Cooper had in one case reported, 
“ there is a general curvature of the spine and a projection 
of the seventh joint. ”. Dr. Burnet, and the Bishops of Salis- 
bury, Worcester, and London are appealed to as witnesses 
of the truth of the statements, as also the Lord Mayor of 
London. 

It is not safe to give too ready a credence to any account 
which may get abroad ; while, on the other hand, it is not 
the part of wisdom to take it for granted that all such ac- 
counts must, of course, be false. There is not, as far 'as 
my acquaintance with the word of God goes, anything said 
which goes to prove that God’s gracious and even miracu- 
lous interposition would be wholly withdrawn from his 
church. The saying is, indeed, common, that “ the days 
of miracles are past;” it is not, however, so said in Scrip- 
ture. I do not say that it may not be true, but that the 
Scripture is silent on the matter; and the longer I live, the 
more wisdom I see in the advice somewhere given, “not to 
be wise on religion above what is written.” 

The deceits and frauds practiced in the Papal Church 
have perhaps more than anything else tended to produce, 
in the minds of a large number of sober-minded Protestants, 
a pretty strong prejudice against all modern miracles. 
Those extraordinary cures and recoveries which at times 
take place, and especially when preceded by, and accom- 
panied with, much and earnest prayer to God, with strong 
faith in his power to afford aid, with a full and clear reli- 
ance on the name and merits of the Saviour, at least de- 
serve a serious, and respectful, and unprejudiced examina- 
tion of the case, and recognition of the hand of God, where 
the proof is clear that his hand hath wrought. 


J. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


227 


There are in the lives of God’s people, in the private 
history of many a follower of Christ, many tokens of God’s 
presence, many proofs that he does hear prayer ; yea, not 
a few turns of Providence, and deliverances, and escapes, 
which are to the mind of the individual as strikingly evi- 
dential of the working of His hand as if they were em- 
bodied in a real miracle. A person who, on looking back, 
can recollect such cases, ought not, surely, to say confi- 
dently, that God never will, that Christ never does, gra- 
ciously interpose, even to remove bodily diseases from his 
afflicted members who in faith seriously seek unto him for 
aid. Were there more faith in the church there would, 
probably, be more cases of the divine interposition and 
more ready admission of his hand. 

While my hand is in about the marvelous I will give a 
case which I had from a person who was present and wit- 
nessed it. The relator is a pious person, and would not 
be apt to mistake. A few years ago Mr. Wolff was travel- 
ing from Egypt to Jerusalem by land. There was quite a 
company along, a good many Arabs among them. These 
Arabs were very wicked fellows, one of them was especially 
vile and profane in conversation. One night when they 
had camped, and Mr. W. had retired to rest in his tent, 
the Arabs sitting about the fire, the one who had been so 
very vile and wicked began to make the most strange and 
unearthly sounds that were ever heard. The others said 
he was possessed with a devil, and some of them com- 
manded the devil in the name of Mohammed to come out 
of him. The possessed man replied that Mohammed was 
a pig, — a contemptuous way of speaking of Mohammed, 
which a good Mohammedan would not use, — and after this 
went on some time. Mr. W. said that he fully believed 
that Jesus had power now as formerly to cast out devils, 
and he would command the devil in the name of Jesus to 


228 


MEMOIR OF 


come out of the man ; he did so, and the man was silent ; 
after some time he began again a little, but on Mr. W.’s 
again commanding him in the name of Christ, he was 
again silent. On the night before they reached Jerusalem 
the man was possessed in the same way, and his comrades 
wished Mr. W. to silence him, but on that occasion he de- 
clined. One of the Arabs then commanded the devil in 
the name of Jesus to be silent, and the man was silent. 
They were much struck with it, and talked about the name 
of Jesus doing what the name of Mohammed would not, 
and asked Mr. W. about his character and religion. I 
make no comment on this. 

The Rev. Joseph Wolff, introduced above, has arrived 
from England. He is of Jewish extraction ; early in life be- 
came favorable to Christianity, but in the first instance with 
that form of it held by the Papists. He spent some time 
at Rome, and was a member of the famous Roman mission- 
school called the Propaganda. His active and inquisitive 
mind led him to call in question the various tenets of that 
church. This was borne for some time, but at length he 
pushed his doubts so far as to start the question whether 
the Pope might not be “antichrist” or “the man of sin;” 
further tolerance could not be expected — he was expelled. 
Not long after leaving Rome he embraced the views of 
Protestants; was for a long time connected with the Jews 
Society, but for the most of the time since has depended 
mainly on his own resources and that of private individuals. 
He has traveled much as a missionary ; about a year since 
returned from a tour through the center of Asia. While on 
this tour he suffered much — was at times in much danger ; 
but, on the other hand, was at various points much caressed, 
and that from Mohammedan and Pagan princes. From the 
king of Oude he received about one thousand pounds, and 
at other times, from other persons, about as much. Since 


y. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


229 


his return he has published his journal, sold three editions, 
and realized about another thousand. 

He is now preparing for another tour through the heart 
of Africa — will go from this to Egypt, thence to Ethiopia 
or Abyssinia, thence to Timbuctoo, and thence to the 
Cape of Good Hope, after which he says he must visit the 
United States and ascertain whether our western Indians 
are of Jewish descent ; he is one of those who think that 
there is a large body of Jews — the ten tribes — who are yet 
to be found. 

In person he is below the medium height, but of a thick, 
strong frame, well clothed with flesh, has a large, round 
face, bushy hair, short neck, a quick and rather restless eye, 
talks a good deal, and often passes from one subject to an- 
other before others expect it. He possesses considerable in- 
formation, is master of many modern tongues, is very lively, 
cheerful, and even playful, and has a great desire to be 
doing something for the promotion of the cause of Christ. 

He is an ardent advocate for the personal reign of the 
Lord Jesus at Jerusalem; and thinks that the time is only 
ten or fifteen years off — is very confident that the Jews will 
be gathered and re-established in their own land, be the 
first of nations, have the Saviour to reign over them in 
person, and that until this great event takes place not 
much will be accomplished in converting the world to the 
knowledge of Christ. He does not dwell as much on 
these points as formerly ; in my interviews with him they 
have not been much discussed. 

Malta has been in the possession of the British about 
thirty-five years; has usually been the place where mission- 
aries to the countries round the Mediterranean first came. 
The American, English Church, London Missionary, and 
Jews’ Societies have all made it head-quarters for a time. 
The Americans have left and removed their printing-presses 


20 


230 


MEMOIR OF 


to Smyrna and Beyroot. The London have removed theirs 
to Corfu. That of the Church Missionary Society is still here 
in efficient operation. The Methodists have no press and 
but two missionaries in the Mediterranean — one at Gibral- 
tar, the other at Malta — the latter of doubtful continuance. 
The mission has had almost no effect on the Maltese, but 
has done good to the soldiers and residents. During the 
present year they have broken up the mission in Egypt and 
withdrawn their missionary. 

There is a restriction on the press here. The government 
require all the publications to be submitted to them before 
they are published. Nothing is allowed to be published or 
circulated against the Romish Church. A small newspaper 
is printed weekly, but contains but little — the same matter 
in English and Italian in adjoining columns. It is true 
that education is not general, but some can read, and per- 
haps nothing would so soon awaken a spirit of improve- 
ment, and beget a thirst for learning to read, as a free 
press, which would scatter far and wide its publications. 
Malta might, and ought to be made a school for oriental 
languages — a great moral, religious, and intellectual light- 
house for the adjacent countries. Its situation, climate, 
cheapness of living, its oriental habits and manners, and 
its relation to England, the great mother of modern im- 
provements in arts, commerce, intellectual and moral cul- 
ture, give it peculiar advantages. May the government 
have the wisdom and enterprise to perceive and use it. 

There was formerly an observatory on the top of the 
palace. It had the usual apparatus, and a large telescope, 
well adapted to astronomical purposes. The palace, a high 
building, standing on the highest point in Valetta, the ob- 
servatory commands a fine horizon. There is no object to 
obstruct the view ; add to this the fact that, for most of the 
year, there is no rain, few clouds, and a clear, pure sky, 


y. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


231 


and being withal the farthest point south at which an ob- 
servatory is placed, gives it much interest. And yet no 
proper use is made of it ; few know that there ever was an 
observatory on the top, or that there are stowed away in 
an old room in the palace the telescope and instruments 
belonging to it. When the French took the island, under 
Bonaparte, on his way to Egypt, the instruments were re- 
moved and the room used for a signal-point. It is still 
thus used, and the instruments rusting in an adjoining 
room. Across the large saloon is a meridian line, together 
with the zodiac, laid down in marble, with the zodiacal 
signs and degrees wrought in the marble, admirably done. 

This neglect is the more inexcusable, as the English 
government possess all the property held by the knights, 
and this comprises a considerable portion of the property, 
both in town and country, houses and lands. The Maltese 
have some cause for complaint, and the matter is about to 
be investigated in Parliament. 

Dr. Rudge, in his sermon on the late commemoration of 
the translation of the Scriptures into English, has the fol- 
lowing singular and important record : 

“In a memorial presented to Pope Julius III., 1553, by 
the Bishops of Romania, Capula, and Thessalonica, relative 
to the prevailing abuses and corruptions, the following im- 
portant admission is made. * We believe, as an article of 
faith, what the Council of Trent has decreed on tradition, 
that our Lord Jesus Christ and his apostles delivered more 
precepts relating to manners and faith, by word of mouth, 
than are in the Scriptures, and that these, without writing, 
were handed down to us ; and although we cannot prove 
this clearly (for among ourselves we plainly acknowledge 
that we have no proofs, but some sort of conjectures to 
make out what we teach concerning tradition); yet we 
confess this to be true, because the Romish Church main- 


232 


MEMOIR OF 


tains it. In the days of the apostles (to tell you the truth, 
but you must be silent), and for several years after them, 
there was no mention made of either Pope or cardinals, 
much less of any of these doctrines, these laws, these con- 
stitutions, or this sovereignty, which we now exercise over 
people and nations. We have reserved the most con- 
siderable advice, which we could at this time (1553) give 
your Holiness, to the last.’ They then proceed to suggest 
that the Pope ‘should use all his force, to prevent the 
gospel being read,’ and they add, ‘really, whoever shall 
diligently weigh the Scriptures, and then consider all the 
things that are usually done in our churches, will find 
there is a great difference betwixt them ; and the doctrine 
of ours is very unlike, and in many things repugnant to it. ’ 
I need not make a single comment on the above, a Prot- 
estant could scarcely find anything more to his purpose.” — 
London Weekly Journal. 

“According to a statement, which there is every reason 
to believe correct, there have been 3000 convents sup- 
pressed within the last three years. The example was set 
by the Emperor of Russia, who, by an ukase in 1832, 
abolished 187 convents of monks. This was followed by 
the King of Prussia, who, by a royal order, secularized all 
the convents in the Duchy of Posen. In 1834, Don Pedro 
put down 300, and Spain has lately abolished 1800 con- 
vents.” (lin'd.) Does not this look like the fulfillment of 
the prophecy in Rev. xvii. 16? “ God hath put it into their 
hearts to fulfill this.” 

The monks on the island are an abandoned set. The 
police have often to interfere in their houses and keep the 
peace. The more respectable Maltese despise them, and 
will not permit them to visit their houses ; it is believed 
that they would be glad to see the monasteries sup- 
pressed. 


% D. PAXTON, D.D. 


2 33 


After what I have noticed relating to the festivals in other 
Papal countries, I need not enter into the details of these 
“religious ceremonies,” as they are observed in Malta. 
Suffice it to state that the processions with images and pic- 
tures, the illuminations, the banners, the reports of small 
cannon from the tops of the churches, the squibs and 
crackers, the ringing of bells, the music, the shoutings 
from the crowds who throng the streets, combine to pro- 
duce a scene of disorder and confusion beyond description. 
It might be taken for the worst kind of drunken frolic. 
And all this as a religious festival ! The music is chiefly 
made by the fiddle, playing all sorts of light and lively 
tunes. 

It is a rule that every church before it keeps a festival must 
obtain leave from the authorities. Mr. G., connected with 
the Police, tells me, he thinks the applications from the 
churches in the island average more than one for each day. 
The expense for oil, wax candles, etc. is often great, while 
the poor are suffering with starvation. But this is Papacy. 
The great multiplication of such days in Papal countries 
does evil in many ways — produces idleness, affects busi- 
ness, and tends to injure the due observance of the Sab- 
bath. 

The following curious document is published in the 
Spanish papers : 


“Army of the King Don Carlos V. 

“The most Holy Virgin De los Dores, having been de- 
clared by me Generalissimo of my troops, it became my 
duty, from motives of veneration and piety, to distinguish 
with the title of Generalissimo, the royal standard, which 
bears for its device this august image ; and, in consequence, 
I ordain that this august and royal standard be not low- 
ered before any person, not even before me, and that the 

20* 


234 


MEMOIR OF 


same honors and salutes be rendered to it as is to the Holy- 
Sacrament. 

“ Given at Estella, this 2d day of August, 1835. 

“ I, the King.” 

It is not difficult, I apprehend, to see the design of the 
above decree. It is to operate on the religious prejudices 
of the Spanish population, who are yet under the influence 
of a superstitious belief in the protection of the Virgin, 
especially on the priesthood and monks, who have lately 
been so roughly handled ; and must not every good 
Catholic tremble to be found opposing the cause which 
the blessed Mary is especially engaged in promoting ? It 
is, really, a right good notion of Don Carlos. It is a last 
desperate effort. It, however, places the Virgin in a deli- 
cate position. Should she fail to save him, should his army 
still be beaten with the Virgin Generalissimo at its head, 
will not her votaries lose confidence in her? — become 
heretics as to her power to save ! To serve his own cause, 
Don Carlos has placed the cause of the Virgin in a perilous 
situation, for it is almost certain, that with all the aid she 
can give him, his cause must go down — and then the poor 
Virgin will lose credit. 

An evening or two since I was introduced to a young 
man, as “ a Mr. Trollope , near relative of the Mrs. Trollope 
who had written a book on the United States. ’ ’ The intro- 
duction so brought up the subject of the book, that he 
perhaps felt almost obliged to say something about it. He 
did this very modestly, intimating that his relative was 
thought by many not to have done us justice ; and passed 
off to some inquiries about our country, the state of religion, 
and how we could get along without a provision made by 
law for the support of the gospel. Mrs. Trollope’s book is 
often referred to. Generally I find that those who have had 


J. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


2 35 


some opportunities of inquiring for themselves about 
America are disposed to admit their travelers have not 
done us justice. 

The state of slavery in the South is a perpetual topic. 
In truth, it does incalculable injury to our national charac- 
ter. Would to God that it were done away with — that the 
South would adopt some plan to put an end to the sin, to 
remove the cause of reproach, and get clear of the danger ! 
Then, indeed, our land might be pointed to as the land 
favored of the Lord ; as blessed with civil and religious 
privileges above all lands ; as loved and gloried in by her 
sons ; and that without having it perpetually said in reply, 
“but look at your slavery.’ * 

We are now in the height of the rainy season. Many 
heavy falls of rain have taken place. Yesterday we had 
a Levanter — a tremendous blow, and this morning the 
roughest sea I have yet seen. To-morrow is Christmas, 
and we have not seen ice ; it seldom freezes here. I have 
not, as yet, had a fire in my room, and I am in latitude 36 
deg., so much does the situation modify the natural heat 
and cold of a given latitude. 

On Christmas there was worship at the government 
chapel. The congregation was fuller than usual, and the 
chapel adorned with evergreens. The Lord’s Supper was 
administered, and I was surprised to find that so many re- 
mained to partake of it. I learned that it is, at Malta, the 
custom to partake of the Supper on Christmas-day, and 
that many who seldom attend church at other times attend 
then and partake of the ordinance. Whether it is consid- 
ered a work of merit or of penance I know not, but it 
gives a discouraging view of the state of religion in the 
state church ; still, as so many show a disposition to attend 
those meetings where the gospel is plainly preached, I am 
disposed to throw the blame on the chaplains. 


236 


MEMOIR OF 


January 1, 1836. To-day there has. been a levee at the 
palace, given by the acting Lieutenant-Governor, in the 
absence of Lord Ponsonby, the Governor. The rooms of 
the palace were thrown open, and a crowd assembled in 
the saloon. Among the company were officers of the army 
and navy, foreign consuls, priests, respectable English resi- 
dents, and a Turkish bashaw and suite. At twelve the door 
from the saloon to the council-chamber was thrown open 
and exhibited the Lieut. -Governor, surrounded with other 
governmental officers. The company passed in and bowed 
to him, and, if they chose, congratulated him on the re- 
turn of the day. Introductions were not needful. The 
company passed through the room into the long passage, 
and traversed it between a double file of soldiers, and thus 
passed out. No ladies present. 

Most of the Christian sects in the Levant, and the same 
may be said of the Mohammedans, lay great stress on fast- 
ing. The Jews did the same. This custom of fasting 
many days in succession, which implies only abstaining 
from food to a certain time of the day, and from certain 
kinds of food altogether during the fast, may have ob- 
tained from an early period, and may throw light on some 
passages of Scripture. In the account of the shipwreck of 
Paul, it is said they continued fasting to the fourteenth day. 
They had probably fasted part of each day, or during the 
whole time abstained from certain kinds of food. 

At the levee I was conversing with th£ Greek consul, 
who, having lived long at Malta, was acquainted with many 
present, and who, to while away the time, entertained me 
with short notices of some of the persons passing. Among 
others he pointed out a priest who, he said, was a man of 
more than usual talents and information, and much more 
liberal in his views than most of his fellow-priests. And, 
added he, “I met him at the ball last night, and he pro- 


y. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


237 


posed to me, about eleven o’clock, to go and get some 
supper; ‘for,’ said he, ‘ I must finish eating before twelve 
o’clock, for I have mass to say in the morning, and you 
know I must do that fasting.’ But,” continued the consul, 
“although he was thus particular about eating before 
twelve, that it might be before morning, when I came 
away from the ball, at quarter past twelve, I left him play- 
ing at cards.” 

On Sabbath two men, sailors, were baptized at the 
Methodist chapel. They belong to one of the English 
men-of-war at Malta. They had seen and conversed with 
Mr. Brownell, the missionary, and applied to be baptized. 
They gave reason to hope that they were renewed by the 
grace of God. At the request of Mr. Brownell, for whom 
I have preached about once a week, sometimes oftener, I 
agreed to preach on the subject of baptism, and also ad- 
minister the ordinance. The men came to see me before- 
hand, and gave me an account of their religious exercises. 
They were better informed on the subject of religion than 
I expected, considering the situation of sailors. I was glad 
to find that on board their vessels they have Bibles and 
other religious books. They have also a chaplain, who 
reads prayers and preaches. But the state of religion is 
low. They told me, “ while something of a form is kept 
up, so far, at least, as to the reading of prayers, a large 
part of the crews are awfully wicked, and many of them 
are bitter against real piety. ’ ’ Still, there is going forward 
a change in the British navy, as regards morals, and the 
same with the army. Nearly one-half of Mr. Brownell’s 
congregation are soldiers and soldiers’ wives. After the 
baptismal service, the Lord’s Supper was administered, and 
about thirty officers and soldiers united in the service. 

Intemperance is a great evil in the army and navy, and 
almost nothing is done to counteract it. The use of wine 


238 


MEMOIR OF 


is almost universal among the English and better classes of 
the Maltese. When spoken to about the temperance cause, 
they say, “Very few genteel people use ardent spirits.” It 
is a fact that too much wine is used. I doubt not that the 
discontinuance of the use of wine would be of great utility 
at this place. I am sure that many take too much, that 
many form intemperate habits from the use of it, and I 
doubt not that it is not only needless, but that people 
would be better without it. Such, however, are the habits 
of the people in these countries, such the cheapness and 
abundance of wines, that it will be no easy matter to make 
war with effect against the use of it. 

My friend, Mr. S., vouches for the truth of this anec- 
dote : A priest, at the close of his sermon, told the follow- 
ing story in favor of the people buying and wearing those 
little images of the Virgin Mary, which are stamped on 
cloth, and always to be had at the principal churches. “A 
young man had sold himself to the devil. After some time 
the devil came for him, — his time being out. The devil 
took him to a place where there was a dark hole, and told 
the man to throw himself in ; he refused to do so ; the 
devil was about to take hold of him to throw him in, but 
happening to look into his bosom, saw that tire young man 
had there one of those little images of the Virgin; he 
started back; confessed that he had no power over the 
man ; he was under the protection of Mary, and that he 
dare not touch him.” What an argument this for buying 
those amulets and trusting in them! Very few of the 
lower classes of the Maltese are to be seen without one of 
these hung about their necks. 


J. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


2 39 


CHAPTER VII. 


Voyage to Corfu — Education — Corinth — Athens — Funeral — King of 
Bavaria — Excitement among the Ladies of Syra — Scio — Missionary 
Meeting at Smyrna — Ephesus — Grave-yards — Worship at a Mosque 
— Hebrew Prayer-Book. 



ORFU, IONIAN ISLES, January 22, 1836. — On the 


1 8th I took passage in an English mail steamer for this 
place. I left Malta with a good deal of regret. My stay 
had been prolonged much beyond what I expected. When 
I landed there I knew not one person on the island, and 
intended to remain about two weeks ; I stayed nearly seven 
months, and formed some very agreeable acquaintances, 
and have reason to hope that my stay was not without 
some profit to a number of individuals. On my first Sab- 
bath I became acquainted with Rev. Messrs. Brownell and 
Schleintz — the former an American, a valuable Methodist 
brother, the latter a German, who, since Rev. Jowett’s de- 
parture, has had the charge of the Church Missionary 
establishment. I was received as a brother in the Lord, 
and had the opportunity of preaching in the Methodist 
chapel the first week of my stay. From that time, I 
preached more or less every week for these brethren, in 
the two congregations. I am indebted to them, particu- 
larly to Mr. S., for a great part of my social enjoyments. 
Mr. Schleintz has a keen discriminating mind, and a con- 
siderable tact for reading character. He is rather below 
medium height, but well built, and a good-looking man ; 
agreeable in conversation and a most pleasant companion. 


240 


MEMOIR OF 


I have not often met with a man of more worth, more 
talents, more acquirements, more agreeable properties, and 
fewer of those items of disagreeables which often form so 
unpleasant a drawback to the sum total of excellences of 
some good sort of people. 

I found good company on board the steamer. Rev. 
Buchannon and lady and a number of English gentlemen. 
The former to fill a chaplaincy at one of the isles. Early 
on the second day the island of Zante appeared ahead, and 
on our right the Morea began to rise in view. They both 
appeared mountainous and broken and almost destitute of 
vegetation. Zante is a large island with a high mountain 
running through the midst of it. 

Opposite Cephalonia lies Ithaca, the island of the cele- 
brated Ulysses : the side next us was little else but a barren 
rock, which rose abruptly out of the sea, with some moss 
and bushes on it. The settlements are chiefly on the other 
side of the island. Such an island gives but a sorry idea 
of the kingdom of the great Ulysses. Homer was a poet, 
and must have understood the poet’s license. We reached 
the port of Corfu in the night of the fourth we had been at 
sea. In the morning landed and called on J. M. Lowndes, 
missionary of the L. M. S. I had met with him and lady 
at Malta, the previous summer. He is the oldest mis- 
sionary in the Levant, having been twenty years in the 
field. 

The Ionian Isles, lying along the coast of Greece and 
Epirus, were formerly inhabited by Greeks, and in the 
most flourishing period of Greece, as also in the time of 
the Romans, had a large population, and were covered 
with cities. They have passed through the hands of Turks, 
Venetians, and French to the British crown. There is 
now a considerable body of troops in Corfu, and on each 
of the other six islands, which belong to this republic. It 


J. D. PAXTON , ; D.D. 


241 


is strongly fortified : the works are stupendous — the castle, 
placed on a high rock, is a striking object, with its frown- 
ing battlements bristling with cannon, its fosse on the land 
side, and its light-house on the top. On an island opposite 
the town the English are erecting fortifications, which will 
cost near a million pounds sterling. The islands do not ap- 
pear worth so much expense and care ; but their position, 
their relation to the main-land, gives them their chief value. 

The Greek Church is the prevalent one. It allows the 
reading of the Scriptures — uses pictures but not images in 
worship — as to forms and idle ceremonies, is not as bad as 
the Papacy, but yet has many things which obscure the 
truth. St. Sheridan is the patron of Corfu — his bones are 
carried in procession several times in the year, and much 
idolatrous regard is paid to them. This has been en- 
couraged by the British authorities, from the wish to 
conciliate the people. It is to be hoped that a better 
way will be found than that of strengthening them in 
their folly and superstition. The number of feast days is 
enormous, amounting, as I am assured, to two hundred in 
a year. 

Olives, wine, and currants are the staples. Some cotton 
and grain are raised. The population is chiefly Greek, 
but mixed with Italians, Maltese, and Jews — the latter a 
poor-looking people. 

Something has been done for the promotion of educa- 
tion, but the benefits are not in proportion to what ought 
to have resulted from the money expended and efforts 
made. 

Lord Guilford, for a number of years, expended near 
thirty thousand pounds, annually, for this object. He 
established a university with about twenty professors — sup- 
ported one hundred students, and established one hundred 
and twenty schools in the seven islands. Had he lived to 

21 


242 


MEMOIR OF 


direct and control matters, much more good would have 
resulted. Many of the schools have been broken up, and 
the university reduced since his lordship’s death. He 
left a valuable library to the institution, on certain con- 
ditions ; they were not complied with, and the library has 
been claimed by the legal heirs of his lordship, and lately 
removed to England. This is to be regretted, as such a 
library would have been of great value, where books are so 
scarce ; and could be spared from England, where books 
are so plenty. 

The governor, Hon. Sir H. Douglas, has appointed Rev. 
Lowndes general superintendent of schools in the islands. 
Mr. L. is well informed of the state of things, and is about 
submitting a new plan for a school system, which it is hoped 
will prove efficient. 

These islands all lie in full view of the main-land, some 
of them very near, separated only by a narrow strait. The 
high mountains in the surrounding country are now covered 
with snow, and the effect of it on the temperature of the 
air is very manifest. It is much colder than it was at 
Malta any time during the winter. 

January 30. Took leave of Rev. Lowndes and kind 
family and embarked in the steamer for Patras. Had a 
good view of the islands and coast — all rough and mount- 
ainous. Patras was almost destroyed during the war, it is 
now in a state of rapid improvement — much building in 
progress. We engaged a passage to Corinth in a small 
trading vessel. Mr. Wait, a young English traveler, bears 
me company. I had heard it said more than once, that 
those traveling in the East must take their bed with them, 
if they wish to have the benefit of one. Up to this time, 
I had not found special need of one, as part of my travel- 
ing apparatus. I made some efforts to furnish myself with 
a hanging bed at Patras, but saw none that pleased me, 


y. D. PAXTON , D.D. 


243 


and as I expected to be out but a night or two, concluded I 
would try and make out without one until I reached Athens. 
At night I put on my great coat, rolled myself up in my 
cloak, and lay down on the floor of the cabin, for in truth 
there was nothing else to lie on, there being neither table, 
chair, nor stool in the vessel. The second and the third 
night was ditto, ditto. We made slow progress — wind light 
— sometimes dead ahead — lay to part of a night — passed 
the Bay of Galaxidi, near which the ancient Delphus stood 
and the Gastalian Spring — wind contrary and increasing 
to a gale, we concluded to land and finish the rest of the 
way on horseback. But, on landing at a small village, 
Acrata, we were told that as the arrangements for the day 
had been made, and the people were gone out to work, we 
could not get horses until the next day.. It is true, we saw 
a few people in the fields at work, but we saw others idle, 
loitering about, and tried to induce them to let us start 
forthwith; but it would not do; we were assured we 
must wait until the next day ; that then horses would be 
provided, and we would be sent on our way: we had to 
submit. There is nothing like patience in such cases. 

We were shown lodgings in a room over a shop. There 
was no kind of furniture in the room — not so much as a 
three-legged stool. The day was windy and the night was 
cold. There was no chimney, but some dirt put on the 
floor at one end, and on that some fire was placed, and the 
smoke was left to find its way out as it could. The roof 
was so open we could see the stars in many places. There 
were windows enough, but no glass. The floor was so 
open that you could almost drop your shoe through. A 
good woman brought us an armful of straw, and that was 
useful as a separation from the dirt on the floor. 

Notwithstanding the absence of almost everything that 
I had been accustomed to think needful for sleeping com- 


244 


MEMOIR OF 


fortably, I passed the night well ; but I resolved I would 
embrace the first opportunity of getting a bed for halting 
with. But the traveler will do well to take something 
more than a bed ; bread and meat, sugar and coffee, if he 
would like to enjoy such luxuries. It so fell out that Mr. 
W. had heard more of the real state of matters with the 
traveler than I had, and had taken more pains to provide 
what was necessary. It was agreed, indeed, between us 
that he should be chief manager of all such things; we 
therefore made out pretty well. It is true that our journey 
occupied so much more time than we expected, that we 
were like to be on short allowance, and our efforts to ob- 
tain additional stock were rather discouraging. 

The Gulf of Lepanto runs nearly east and west ; it may 
be sixty to eighty miles in length and from one to ten or 
more in width. It is very difficult to get distance cor- 
rectly in these parts. The gulf is a fine sheet of water, 
inclosed on both sides almost from end to end by mount- 
ains ; these are not very high, but steep and precipitous, 
almost bare of vegetation. Near the foot of the hills are 
some pine-trees, holly-bushes, and olive groves. 

We were called bright and early, and made preparations 
for setting off. Our trunks were swung on the sides of a 
mule, and smaller articles piled upon them. Our saddles 
were nothing more nor less than pack-saddles. By folding 
our coats and cloaks and putting them under us, we made 
out to ride with some comfort. Our stirrups were pieces 
of rope doubled for the foot to go in, and did better than 
I could have supposed. It is certainly true that we at 
home spend much for appearance ; still there is more com- 
fort riding on a good American saddle with its fixtures, 
than on a pack-saddle with nothing but ropes to support 
your feet — try it who will. 

We had left the boat about thirty miles from Corinth, 


y. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


245 


on the south side of the gulf. Our road lay along the 
shore, and was not bad, although no work had been ex- 
pended on it. We had some gullies to cross, and in a few 
places were in danger of being swamped in the mud. A 
driver walked by or behind each mule, and by a word, or 
a stick, guided and hurried on the animal ; we seldom went 
out of a walk. I was reminded of the Shunamite. At first, 
the plain was narrow, but it began gradually to open. It 
is a noble plain, but little of it under tillage — mostly used 
for pasturing flocks of sheep and other animals. Near 
Corinth more indications of industry were perceptible. 
Much of the breaking up of the soil was done by hand ; the 
plow was seldom seen. Women were seen working in 'the 
fields, others spinning cotton on the distaff. The mount- 
ains on the south side sweep off from the gulf as you ap- 
proach Corinth, and lie round like an amphitheater; a 
secondary range of mountains, which, at the lower end of 
the plain, is much washed, and shows but a skeleton of a 
mountain, sinks into a table-land, as you approach the city. 
The view from this land is grand. 

Near the Isthmus, which separates the east end of the 
Gulf of Corinth from the Gulf of JEgina, this secondary 
ridge again rises to a considerable height, and at the foot 
of one of the peaks that rises so much higher than any land 
adjoining it, as to form a kind of sugar-loaf, stands Corinth. 
A fort occupies the top of the peak; the sides are inac- 
cessible, high walls are built round the top out to the edges 
of the precipices, with strong gates. The road is a place 
of great strength. The morning after our arrival, we 
climbed up to the gate' of the Acropolis, but were stopped 
by the sentinel, who informed us that most of the soldiers 
had that morning gone down to the town, and that his 
orders were to let no person enter until they returned. We 
failed to look at the view from the summit, but from the 


246 


MEMOIR OF 


side of the gate and many points below, the prospect was 
splendid. We had a view of the plain, with a noble grove 
of olive-trees across the middle of it, the gulf and the long 
ranges of mountains north and northwest, that amply repaid 
the labor of ascent. 

The present town is small — it does not contain more 
than two thousand people. It is a poor place. Most of 
the houses mud hovels, with a few of a better class. 

Ancient Corinth has almost wholly disappeared. Six or 
eight pillars of an old temple stand near the foot of the 
citadel, and some broken pieces of large pillars were lying 
about with loose broken rock, but clustered remains of the 
rich work of the ancient city are not to be seen. 

We found, at Corinth, what passes for a tavern, kept by 
a Corfuite. We had no good character of him, but, on the 
whole, fared better, and were less imposed on by him than 
we expected. True, his house is dirty, and his cookery 
not to be praised, and his prices above the real value of 
the accommodations ; still, after the adventures of the last 
four days, we enjoyed his room and chairs, beds and table- 
fare much more than we would have done under other cir- 
cumstances. 

I had almost forgotten to state that I first used a cup of 
Turkish coffee a few hours before reaching Corinth. We 
stopped to rest at a locanda, or eating-house, and ascer- 
taining that coffee was to be had, called for some. The 
man had a few coals of fire on the hearth, and over it a ves- 
sel of water. He took a small coffee-cup and put a spoonful 
of ground coffee in it, then filled the cup with water, stirred 
it with a spoon, and handed it to us. I took it with a great 
relish. I believe the secret was that I was tired and hun- 
gry and prepared to love anything in the form of eatables. 
As my rule is to conform as much as may be to the customs 
of the people among whom I am, it will not be surprising 


J. D. PAXTON, , D.D. 


247 


if I become fond of Turkish coffee. But as to their smok- 
ing, I have pretty much made up my mind that I will not 
conform to that evil habit.* 

Although I have spoken of Turkish coffee, you must not 
infer that it was made by a Turk. There are no Turks 
here. They have had the rule so long in Greece that the 
Greeks have, in many things, adopted their mode of living. 

How is this place changed since Paul and Apollos labored 
here in the gospel ! Corinth was then a wealthy, refined, 
and splendid city. Paul labored here one year and six 
months. Apollos followed him, and their labors were not 
in vain. That the church which Paul founded in this city 
was large and important, may be inferred from the fact 
that two of his largest and most important letters were ad- 
dressed to this church. From various things in those let- 
ters, it would appear that there was a great deal of vice at 
Corinth at that time. Where are the many who heard 
Paul preach while resident here? Where are those who 
sat under his instructions ? And where the idle, pleasure- 
loving throng, and those who for earthly riches neglected 
the care of the soul? All, long since, gone to their final 
account ! How richly have those been rewarded who be- 
lieved the gospel and bore the loss of all for the sake of 
Christ ! And, oh ! how many unavailing tears have those 
shed who for the love of the world neglected the gospel ! 

Our stay at Corinth was short ; we wished to reach 
Athens before Sabbath. We hoped to have the pleasure of 
joining in worship with the mission families. We were 
told that we could cross the isthmus in two hours, and in 
three more could reach Athens by water. We were sadly 
disappointed. Our road led us in an oblique direction 


* He was man enough to keep his resolution to his dying day. — 
M. W. P. 


248 


MEMOIR OF 


across the isthmus. The elevation of the isthmus above 
the level of the water on both sides must be several hun- 
dred feet ; some deep ravines run up from the southern 
side ; one looks as if it was artificial. It is said that an 
attempt was once made to open a canal, and it may have 
been at this place. 

The place of embarking is not at Cenchreae, but at Cala- 
mata, the northwest corner of the Gulf of ^Egina. Cen- 
chreae is a small place, and of no interest. At Calamata 
we first saw camels used in considerable numbers as beasts 
of burden. They were rambling over the plain with their 
huge pack-saddles • on. It appears to be the custom, in 
Greece, to let the saddle remain on the beasts of burden 
day and night. 

On reaching the port, we had the discomfort of not find- 
ing a vessel that would leave for Athens until night. The 
wind was ahead, but a change was expected early in the 
night. We still hoped that we would find ourselves at the 
Pireus in the morning, but it was not until the second day 
near ten o’clock that our voyage ended. We had the dis- 
comfort of spending the. Sabbath in a small sailing-boat on 
the Gulf of ^gina, almost becalmed most of the time, and 
the rest with adverse winds. We had but little bread to 
eat, and a few figs. In other respects we had cause of 
thankfulness; the weather was fine, and the crew more 
free from noise and vice than is generally met with. 

To the left we had a distant view of the plains of Megara 
with its groves of olive-trees; to our right the mountainous 
coasts of the Morea. The island of ^Egina lies near the 
middle of the gulf, a place of much celebrity, but now, 
like all else in these regions, has greatly declined, in these 
latter days, from its former glory. The rude hand of the 
northern barbarians, the still more rude hand of the Turks, 
and the all-wasting hand of time, has been laid heavy on 


y. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


249 


all these countries. This eastern world has grown old y its 
iniquities have been visited upon it, and it may well be 
doubted whether God’s controversy with it has come to a 
close. There is so much vice, so much superstition and 
idolatry among those who profess the Christian name, so 
much backwardness to receive the pure truth of the gospel, 
even when brought to them, that we may well fear that the 
rod will be heavily laid on it. 

The port of Athens was once surrounded with strong forti- 
fications, but they are all destroyed. The situation of Athens 
is very fine. It stands near the middle of a wide plain, on a 
gentle rise, and around the foot of the Acropolis, with mount- 
ains at a distance on most sides. A few years ago it was a 
mass of ruins, and, with the exception of a few houses, it is 
not much better yet. During the late war it was almost en- 
tirely destroyed. After the Turks were expelled, the people 
began to return and repair their houses, so as to be able to 
live in them. The old town must have been built without 
a plan, every man doing that, as to locating his house, 
which was right in his own eyes. The improvements which 
have lately been made have also the disadvantage of hav- 
ing no general plan. Houses are constructed of all kinds 
of materials, of all sorts of forms, and situated in all sorts 
of ways. 

The streets are endlessly crooked and winding, and 
withal so narrow and full of filth, that it is painful to walk 
in them. Since the government has been moved to 
Athens, some attempts have been made to put things in 
better order, and in time the city may exhibit proportion, 
beauty, and cleanliness. , 

The peak called the Acropolis is high, steep, and rocky. 
By building a high and strong wall all round the very edge 
of the precipice, the place is almost impregnable. The top 
was once covered with temples and other buildings. The 


250 


MEMOIR OF 


ascent is a good deal winding, and several gates are to be 
passed. We paid a small sum for permission to enter. The 
principal gate has been a splendid piece of work ; it has 
been sadly abused and its appearance injured by the altera- 
tions made at different times. Most of the old gateway is 
now filled up, many of the splendid pillars misplaced, 
broken, or removed. In removing the rubbish from the 
gate, just before our arrival, the old Temple of Victory 
was discovered. It is a small building, and almost entirely 
thrown down. They are now gathering the pillars and 
making an effort to put them up. This discovery has given 
great pleasure to antiquaries. 

The Parthenon is the object of most interest on the 
Acropolis. It was a temple of the largest size and most 
finished workmanship, and chiefly made out of beautiful 
white marble. Much the greater part of the structure has 
fallen ; enough, however, remains to give an idea of what 
it was in its glory. The roof is gone; the ends entire; 
an ugly misshapen mosque has been put in the center of 
the temple. The pillars are large ; the blocks of marble 
which form the great connecting parts are of enormous 
size. The floors were paved with very large slabs of white 
marble, finely polished. Originally there was much sculp- 
ture connected with the temple. Many pieces of exquisite 
designs were taken down and removed, by Lord Elgin, 
to England. 

The late wars have done much to complete the ruin of 
this place. Parts are sadly battered and bruised by can- 
non balls. The view from the top of the Parthenon is 
very picturesque. A # fine command of the plain, with its 
extensive olive grove giving relief to the eye, the A£gean 
Sea, and mountains with interspersed plains in all direc- 
tions. 

Mars Hill, where the courts of justice were located, and 


y. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


25 1 


where Paul made his first memorable public address to the 
philosophers of Athens, stands a little west of the Acropo- 
lis. It is a low elevation, destitute of buildings, a bare 
rock, except on part of one side, where wheat was growing 
from soil made from the rubbish which covers the rock. 
A small stream of water runs near and empties into the 
harbor of the port. 

The Temple of Jupiter, to the east of the Acropolis, had 
been of gigantic dimensions. A number of large pillars 
remain, but the body of the edifice has long since disap- 
peared. Within the area of the temple, and occupying 
but a small part of the vacant space, were two threshing- 
floors paved with stone. I measured one of them, and 
found it over forty feet in diameter. 

The Ilissus I used to consider, from the way it was 
spoken of, as a considerable stream. .1 think I have heard 
mention of an island in it, opposite the Temple of Jupiter; 
however this may be, and however large the stream may 
once have been , we found it now. a very small rivulet. 
Hundreds of springs, in all parts, may be found that pour 
out as much water as now flowed in this river. I stepped 
over it many times, at different points, by the help of small 
stones which lay in the channel. It is a dry time now, but 
the middle of February ought to show a medium quantity 
of water. The Greek writers were bound to make the 
most of everything that set forth their own country to the 
greatest advantage. A good river near a town was a fine 
thing — therefore Athens must have one ; and, as it was not 
easy literally to create a river, they took the easier way of 
describing the Ilissus as one. 

Beyond this stream are the remains of the Stadium, the 
seats all removed and the area under cultivation, but the 
general plan of it is very perfect. Here the races and games 
were exhibited. Near the back* end a way has been cut 


252 


MEMOIR OF 


through the hill sixty or more yards, by which those over- 
come might pass out, and thus escape the gaze and hisses 
of the spectators. 

The corner-stone of a new palace for King Otho has 
been laid. The site is a lovely one — commanding a view 
of the most interesting objects which belong to this far- 
famed city and plain. 

I witnessed the funeral of a talented young Greek, a 
teacher in one of the king’s schools. I was too late for 
the services in the church. The procession was preceded 
by several priests, in their robes, carrying small tapers. 
The corpse, on a rude bier, was borne on the shoulders of 
four men. Several tapers were placed on the coffin, but not 
lighted. A number of persons followed, some with tapers 
in their hands. The grave was so shallow that when the 
coffin was lowered the upper part could not have been 
more than eight inches below the surface. The coffin was 
a straight box of coarse plank, with a covering of black 
bombazet fastened over it. The lid fitted very badly, was 
much sprung, and was merely laid on, — not a nail to hold 
it to its place. 

When the coffin was put in the grave it did not go in 
easily, a man jumped on it and thus forced it down into 
place ; a few prayers were said by the priest ; each person 
then threw in a handful of earth, hnd then the grave was 
filled. There was much seeming unconcern, notwithstand- 
ing the deceased was much respected. As we were sepa- 
rating, the person who had the management of the funeral 
came to us and thanked us for the respect we had shown 
the deceased, in following him to the grave and assisting 
at his interment. 

On inquiring why they buried so shallow, was told the 
Greeks are accustomed to open the grave, in about a year, 
and examine the remains; and from certain marks, they 


y. D. PAXTON , D.D. 


2 53 


judge whether the soul is in a happy or miserable state ; if 
the evidence is bad, they pay the priests to have prayers 
oi|ered and other things done for the repose of the soul. I 
noticed in the grave-yard, cups, bottles, and pitchers at 
the head of graves. Incense and lamps are burned at times 
at the 'graves of friends. 

Dr. Jonas King, of the A. B. C. F. Mission, is located 
at this place ; also Rev. Hill, of the American Episcopal 
Mission. I have visited the various schools, and obtained 
much information respecting missionary efforts and pros- 
pects in this and adjacent countries. On Sabbath, by re- 
quest, I preached at Dr. Kork’s, to a small assembly, — a 
few Greeks, who understood English, were present. Dr. 
Kork was formerly superintendent of schools, but resigned. 
The government is unfriendly to education, but the people 
desire it. The public schools are much under infidel in- 
fluence, hence the importance of Christian effort to scatter 
the Bible among the people. The Episcopal Mission has 
given much attention to female education, Dr. King to the 
training of young men. One of the most important parts 
of missionary work in Greece is the distribution of suitable 
books. During the last year Dr. King has put in circula- 
tion, by sales, donations to schools and individuals, 2700 
copies of the Scriptures, and 25,000 parts of Scripture, 
school-books, and religious tracts ; and had books been on 
hand could have doubled it. Rev. Hill has also done much 
in the same way. 

Our week at Athens has passed very pleasantly. We 
were hospitably entertained at Dr. King’s. He and his 
kind lady showed us much attention, and I enjoyed the 
company of the doctor very much. 

From Athens we crossed in a sail-boat to Epidaurus ; had 
a strong wind, and made the run in six hours. The room 
we occupied at E. was furnished with a hearth at one end, 


22 


2 54 


MEMOIR OF 


with a narrow groove-like place in the wall until near the top 
of the room, where it took the form of a chimney and passed 
out. It had not much draught, but took most of the smoke 
out of the room ; a great improvement on that of having 
a fire-place without any particular place for the smoke to 
escape ; we have spent the night in several such rooms. 

We hired horses and proceeded to Argos, through a 
country almost destitute of inhabitants ; the mountains rose 
all around us, the highest capped with snow. The streams 
were all small, none that could not be stepped over ; much 
bare rock on the surface ; vegetation scanty, a good many 
evergreens, occasionally bunches of oleander, and olive- 
trees. We halted at a few places where a guard was placed 
and had our passports examined. 

But the plain of Argos is one of the finest, most com- 
pact, and best cultivated I have seen in Greece. It is 
almost circular, hedged in with mountains, excepting at 
the south, which borders on the bay. Oxen were seen 
drawing the plow, and a few light divisions were made, but 
most of the cultivated soil lies in a body. 

Argos lies at the north of the plain, near a high spur of 
the mountain. We called at once on Rev. E. Riggs, were 
received as brethren, and invited to remain with them. 
Called also on General Gordon, who commands in the 
Morea. The next day the King of Bavaria visited the 
town. His son Otho was not with him. Not much ex- 
citement produced by the visit. The king is a plain-look- 
ing man, dressed in a plain suit of black, with nothing, 
that I could see, to distinguish him from others, unless it 
was that two soldiers walked about ten steps before him. 

We visited Mycene, the royal city of Agamemnon, “ the 
King of many isles and all Argos.” It was in ruins before 
the Christian era. The great gate, through which we may 
suppose that the king led out his troops when he went to 


J. D. PAXTON, DtD. 


255 


the siege of Troy, remains. Without the citadel are some 
singular excavations ; the tomb of Agamemnon is the largest 
and most entire. 

Churches are often seen in Greece standing out on hills, 
far from towns ; they have been built by devotees, and are 
seldom used but on the day of the saint to whom they are 
dedicated. 

On Sabbath I preached for Brother Riggs ; a small as- 
sembly, — General Gordon and his secretary, Mr. and Mrs. 
Riggs, two servants, and Mr. Waite. On the morrow we 
left Argos, where we had spent five days most agreeably 
with Rev. Riggs and lady. They are an interesting couple, 
actively devoted to the work of their Master. Mr. Riggs 
accompanied us to Napoli and introduced us to Colonel 
Baker and family, and Mr. Green (consul). No vessel 
ready to sail for Syra, we, of course, must wait for one. 

Napoli is cleaner, better built, and more business-like 
than any town we have seen in Greece. We have heard 
that continental Greece is in a state of insurrection. 

We left Napoli in a small caique, passed Spitzera and 
Hydra, and arrived at Syra in three days. Syra is one of 
the northern Cyclades. It is an important island. Rev. 
Messrs. Robertson and Hildner are resident missionaries — 
Rev. Leaves, of the British Bible Society, has long been 
employed, in connection with Professor Bambas, in trans- 
lations of Scripture. Mr. H. has 600 pupils in seven de- 
partments. Much attention is paid to schools in the 
islands. Rather a ludicrous event took place to-day. 
About the time King Otho visited the island, the ladies 
formed a society for the benefit of the poor. With a view, 
mainly, to get a donation, they had their constitution 
shown to the king, who gave it his approval. For a similar 
reason in part, and from respect to the office, it was shown 
to the Nomarck. He said he approved of it, but wished to 


256 


MEMOIR OF 


have it so arranged as to be, in some sort, under his in- 
spection. At their meeting to-day he sent his secretary to 
them with a notice that their regulations, changes of rules, 
etc. must be submitted to him before they would be bind- 
ing; and to enforce this, sent a copy of the laws of the 
land, with a leaf folded down at a place which specified a 
heavy fine for non-compliance. The article belongs to a 
law that is designed to prevent secret and unlawful societies, 
and he is for making this law bear upon a little association 
of women, whose object is to receive old clothes, gifts, etc., 
and make and prepare garments for the poor ! 

His attempt to regulate the ladies excited a considerable 
opposition. They all talked together, almost made a tumult, 
and were very indignant at the littleness of this ruler of the 
people. The account Mrs. Leaves gave of the matter was 
quite laughable. I suggested it might be well to pass a 
number of rules, such as a tailor might give his workman, 
stating the kind of seams for the different garments, the 
length of sleeves, kinds of borders, and gravely send them 
to his honor, and thus show him the folly of his request. 
They had not concluded what they would do when I left. 

We had a rough passage in the steamer to Smyrna. Mr. 
W. and myself tried a deck passage ; it was not pleasant, 
from the fact that we shipped water several times and were 
out two nights. In passing from Tenos toward Scio, we 
had a strong wind, and I suffered from sea-sickness. I fear 
I shall never make a good sailor. After having made five 
or six short voyages, I am still liable to be sick when it is 
rough, and I must say it is one of the most unpleasant kinds 
of sickness ; it makes a person feel like giving up every- 
thing, as if life was not worth keeping ; it makes him hate 
himself, and our self-love quarrels with that. 

Our course led us toward Scio, and my hope was that we 
should touch there, as my friend and relation, Rev. Houston, 


y. D. PAXTON ,, ; D.D. 


257 


is located there. When a youth, I sat under the ministry 
of his father, and knew the missionary from his childhood, 
and withal saw him a few days before he sailed, and on the 
day after he had married an interesting young lady, who is 
now his companion in the work, the partaker of his pains 
and pleasures. I met them, unexpectedly, on the highway 
the day after their marriage, and learning that they were 
on their way to the mission-field, I told them, I hoped to 
make them a visit in the course of a year or two and see 
how they did. With Scio now in sight, I remembered my 
promise, and felt no little desire to land and hunt out their 
habitation. But that might not be. The wind from the 
south blew a gale, and the captain, to avoid the heavy 
swell, ran to the north of the island, and thus left the town 
far to the south. 

Scio is a large, and, I am told, a lovely island, and be- 
fore the reverses which came upon it during the Greek 
revolution it was a place of more intelligence, wealth, and 
refinement than any of the isles. When the Greeks struck 
for freedom, it was natural for the Sciots to sympathize 
with them. Scio lies near the Asiatic shore; the Turks 
poured down upon them from Asia Minor, crossed the 
strait, and wasted and destroyed all before them. Thou- 
sands were destroyed, and tens of thousands carried off and 
sold into bondage, and the hand of desolation made to pass 
roughly over the fairest isle, and most beautiful town and 
most refined people, in all Greece. A small part of the 
remnant have returned, and although not soon likely to be 
what it was, it is still a place of some interest, and worthy 
of being the seat of a mission. 

We passed Scio and entered the Gulf of Smyrna about 
night. The city lies at the head of this very deep bay. 
When I awoke in the morning, Smyrna, with its surround- 
ings, all at once burst upon my view. Our vessel lay close 


258 


MEMOIR OF 


to the town, with vessels of many nations around us; the 
town spread for miles along the southeast side of the bay, 
and back to the verge of hills which rise round the bay at 
some half a mile’s distance. The hill back of the town 
was crowned with the stupendous walls of an old citadel, 
now in ruins. For the first time I saw the high and grace- 
ful white minaret which uniformly is the appendage of the 
Turkish mosque. 

We soon landed, and found our way to Rev. D. Temple’s 
abode, from whom we received a kind and hearty welcome. 
In the course of the day we saw all of the American mis- 
sionaries who live here, and their families, as Mr. Adger, 
Mrs. Hallock, Mrs. Brewer,* together with Mr. Bird’s 
family from Beyroot, Mr. Jetler, of C. M. Society, Mr. 
Lewis, of the Jews’ Society, and some others. The next 
day Mr. Goodell arrived from Constantinople, and, to my 
great joy, Mr. and Mrs. Houston, from Scio. Several of 
these brethren had not before seen each other, while others, 
as Goodell, Bird, and King, had been fellow-laborers in 
Palestine, some ten years ago, and have not met since until 
now. With none of them but Mr. Houston was I person- 
ally acquainted ; but I had corresponded with some, and 
by character knew them all. The first few days were those 
of no little interest to me, as thus setting my feet in Asia, 
and that at Smyrna one of the seven churches, and there 
meeting so many beloved ministers of the gospel of peace 
from our own beloved land. But it was not only a time of 
interest and social enjoyment, but, I trust, a time of prayer 
and spiritual communion one with another, and with our 
Lord and Saviour Jesus Christ. 

The English have had a chaplaincy at Smyrna for many 
years. Rev. Arundel now occupies the station, and appears 


* Messrs. Brewer and Hallock were in the United States. 


J. D. PAXTON , D.D. 


2 59 


to be living in fellowship with the missionaries, and de- 
sirous of promoting the cause of truth. There is a Dutch 
chaplaincy also, but no chaplain ; worship is held in the 
chapel by the missionary brethren. The Greek, Greek 
Catholic, and Arminian are the prevailing churches. It 
may be said therefore that there is a church at Smyrna; but 
as regards the native Christians, they have greatly departed 
from “the faith once delivered to the saints, and turned 
aside unto old wives’ fables, and the doctrines and com- 
mandments of men.” 

The burying-grounds are among the most picturesque 
objects in or near Smyrna. They are planted thick with 
the cypress, a tall, tapering evergreen of a dark-green color. 
The Turks place a stone at the head of the grave, with the 
top of it shaped like the common turban. 

Most of the houses are constructed of wood and mortar ; 
this is the more remarkable as wood is scarce. Many of 
the shops contain a great variety of rich and curious arti- 
cles. The streets are narrow, crooked, and, for the most 
part, dirty. 

I visited several places of interest in the vicinity of the 
city, but of these my four days’ trip to ancient Ephesus 
was the most interesting. I set off, in company with Rev. 
Bird and Adger, Baron Sakius, and Rev. Pierpont, from 
Boston, who is making a hasty visit to these parts. We 
had also a guide, and a led-horse for our baggage. Some 
miles out from the city, the plain over which we traveled 
was very level, with scarcely a tree to be seen. The soil 
appeared rich, but the cultivated spots were few and far 
between. The villages seemed small, built in out-of-the- 
way places, near the foot or on the lower part of the 
mountains. We passed very many grave-yards near the 
road ; some of these had turbaned-topped stones, and a 
few were ornamented with the cypress. The number of 


26 o 


MEMOIR OF 


the old grave-yards with the small number of villages, the 
very many grave-yards with no village, was a striking fact. 

Having rode about twenty miles, we stopped at a kharn 
kept by a Turk, who seemed to be living there alone. We 
saw none but himself, and there being but one house and 
but one room in it, we must have seen all who were there. 
He procured us some eggs, and made us some coffee. 
He had some carpets on his floor ; on these we sat and, 
spreading out our beds over them, slept. The next morn- 
ing, after taking coffee, we continued our ride down the 
plain. This day we occasionally saw a sycamore-tree near 
a well, a few pines, and farther on some olive-trees. As we 
approached Ephesus we crossed the river on a pretty good 
stone bridge with several arches. This is modern, and 
contains many pieces of finely-polished marble, which 
were evidently once parts of highly-finished structures. 
Farther on, we halted at a small Turkish village, where 
there was a pretty good kharn. Many pillars of an old 
aqueduct were standing, and on the top of nearly all of 
them were storks preparing their nests, as also on the 
mosque and old minarets. They were tame, and seemed 
to feel perfectly secure from any evil. 

On the north and west of Mount Prion, along the slop- 
ing side of Mount Coressus, in the space between them, 
with a portion of the plain, the old city of Ephesus stood ; 
this space has many ruins scattered 'over it. The Stadium, 
Odeon, Theater, and near it the Agora, can all be identi- 
fied. The ruins, I suppose correctly called the Temple of 
Diana, lie on the plain, forming an immense mass of ruins. 
The wall, in part, remains, but the place is covered with 
large masses of rock, much of it a gray limestone, so firm 
as to be called by some marble ; much, also, of traven- 
tine. This is a most enduring rock. It is the rock of 
which the temple at Pestem, in Italy, is chiefly made. 


J. D. PAXTON , ; D.D. 


261 


There- is of it in the buildings of Pompeii. The high cliffs 
on our right, as we approached Ephesus, appeared to be of 
it ; they seem less decomposed by the weather than usual 
with rocks. 

It is calculated to give a strong impression of the tran- 
sient character of all earthly things, to stand on the site of 
Ephesus, once the mistress of Asia Minor, and see the 
whole ground strewed with fragments of former dwellings, 
while not one house remains nor one family is found to 
dwell there. 

On our return, having spent twenty-four hours among 
the ruins, I was struck with the very many camels we 
passed. Several caravans had near a hundred each ; they 
walk in single file, one tied to another. Transportation is 
carried on almost wholly by them. They bring to Smyrna 
cotton, wool, and fruits, and take back coffee, sugar, goods, 
etc. A paved road once connected Smyrna with Ephesus; 
remnants of it remain. A good wagon-road might, with 
little labor, be made on this route, but as wheel-carriages 
are not used, no care is taken to have good roads. At 
Athens I saw carriages, and at the port, carts and wagons, 
but in no other place in Greece. 

April 1. To-day I went to the great mosque, it being 
the Sabbath of the Mohammedans. We found but few 
there, having gone rather before twelve, their hour of wor- 
ship. We took off our shoes, and went in and placed our- 
selves near the wall. The entire floor was carpeted, but 
had no seats. The people soon began to come in crowds ; 
all washed their hands and feet at the fountain near; shoes 
were pulled off at the door and taken in the hand ; some 
persons of distinction had an attendant, who took up their 
shoes. They entered and seated themselves on their heels, 
in rows of about four feet apart, facing the southeast ; after 
a little they prostrated themselves so as to touch the ground 


262 


MEMOIR OF 


with their forehead, repeated this, rose, prostrated again, 
and repeated prayers, as I judged from the movement of 
the lips ; having done this they remained seated on their 
heels. This was done by each as he came in. Presently 
the rows were filled out from end to end, and all the rows 
that could be formed with the space of four feet before it. 
They crowded close to us, and as more room was needed, 
a man, who from his dress appeared to be an officer (there 
were many soldiers among them, but no women), said 
something in Turkish to another, who came to us and 
made us go out of the mosque ; we found a long porch in 
front full of rows in the same order, and had to move 
back behind them, where we took our stand to see what 
was to be done. We had a pretty good view through one 
door. 

A man now appeared at a window in the gallery, who 
called so loud as to be heard, and accompanied his call 
with various actions, — would rise, and all would rise ; 
would fall on his knees, put his forehead on the floor, and 
remain near a minute thus — the whole assembly did so ; 
this was repeated a number of times ; at the end of about 
half an hour he said something, looking around to all parts 
of the assembly, which then dispersed. Some, however, 
remained a time, prostrating themselves. Their mode of 
prostration is much the same as the Greek. Some also use 
a string of beads in keeping count. The yard was full of 
persons, who spread their coats or mantles and knelt on 
them. 

The following curious article is taken from a copy of the 
Episcopal Prayer-Book translated into Hebrew and litho- 
graphed, of which many copies have been sent from Eng- 
land for the benefit of the Jews in this region. It would 
seem that odd notions are not confined to the new world 
as some would have it. 


y. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


263 


Certificate. 

“I certify, that during the time that I was translating 
and transcribing this Prayer-Book for the use of the Chris- 
tian Jews, that lest they should deem it an offense to use 
any Book of Prayer written by a Gentile, I abstained from 
eating anything forbidden by the law of Moses, nor did I 
use any pens but new ones, that had not been used in any 
other writing. 

“ Marianne Nevill. 

“No. 2, Mount Zion Square, West Dublin, Oct. 25, 1829.” 


264 


MEMOIR OF 


CHAPTER VIII. 


Constantinople — Fiddling and Dancing in a Grave-Yard — Objects of 
Interest — Sultan’s Kitchen — Chalcedon — Sultan attending Mosque 
— Ceremonies and Festivities of the Espousal and Marriage of 
Sultan’s Daughter — Circumcision of his Two Sons — Broosa — 
Pleasant Greeting — Mausoleum of Bajazet — Bath h la Turk — Nice 
— Fruit — Nicomedia — Turkish Post — Bosphorus — Whirling Der- 
vishes — Rhodes — Cyprus. 

April 6, 1836. — Left Smyrna in the steamer for Con- 
stantinople. Had good views of the coast and the islands 
as we passed up — entered the Dardanelles — passed the 
forts — the strait only a mile or two wide — the current 
from two to four miles an hour — wind either up or down 
— down nearly ten months in the year. The land on both 
sides high, rolling, apparently rich, but little cultivated — 
many lovely scenes — small villages from time to time. The 
next day Constantinople rose in view with its mosques and 
minarets — passed the Seven Towers, which lie lowest down 
the strait — then the body of the city — the strait here 
about two miles wide — came to, and passed round Seraglio 
Point — entered the Golden Horn, and cast anchor — Con- 
stantinople to the southwest, and Galata northeast, and 
Pera above or back of it. The view is splendid. The 
mosques rise high above the other buildings, with their 
high, white minarets, from two to six at a mosque. The 
groves of cypress which fill the gardens of the Seraglio, 
and in many quarters mark the cemeteries, diversify the 
scene. 

Landed, and found the Brethren Goodell, Homes, and 


J. D. PAXTON, D.D. 2 6 5 

Dwight, with their families, well. Schauffler and family had 
left for Odessa. 

Mr. Goodell had a funeral to attend on the afternoon of 
the Sabbath ; we found the streets full of people, making 
merry. At the grave-yard were thousands, dancing, 
swinging, fiddling, drumming. They choose this for 
their place of mirth. Horizontal, rotary, and vertical 
swings, were all in use. Most of the crowd were men ; a 
few women looking on, but not engaged in dancing. On 
Monday, in passing the same place, found the people 
engaged in the same way. These are the Easter Holi- 
days — old style. 

I have visited the Medan, Hippodrome, the Burnt 
Pillar* the Egyptian Obelisk, the Bronze Twisted Column, 
the Mural Column, and several mosques. Of the latter we 
entered but the courts. We walked through several bazaars, 
and visited the Cistern of the thousand and one pillars, the 
Seraglio, the Gardens, the Esplanade, and the Sultan’s 
kitchen. The chief cook was very polite, and took from 
the oven two cakes apiece, and gave us ; also a bowl of 
custard and a piece of nice pastry ; all were very good. 
The Sultan was, with most of his household, at a palace 
about a mile off, but some of his ladies were at the Seraglio. 
We saw his stables and horses. The Sultan has not lived 
at the Seraglio since the Russian war. A law of the realm 
forbids the Sultan to return to his palace, when he goes out 
to war, until he has been victorious. He failed in the con- 
test, but he may have other reasons for avoiding it. 

At Scutari, I saw the silk-weavers ; their looms like the 
old-fashioned ones of America. Visited the barracks, a 
noble building, capable of accommodating ten thousand 
troops. The soldiers make their own shoes and clothes. 
The school-rooms are very good, fitted up on the Lan- 
casterian plan, with globes, orrery, maps, etc. The Amer- 

23 


266 


MEMOIR OF 


ican missionaries assisted them in fitting up, and arranging 
the lessons. We were treated with great kindness, coffee 
and pipes were offered us. Mr. Goodell and his translator 
were my companions in this excursion ; the latter gentle- 
man had spent a few weeks with them when they were 
going into operation. 

We passed out through the town, which is large, and 
through the extensive grave-yards, where millions lie in- 
terred. Groves of cypress shade the graves, and the stones 
had various devices. 

Chalcedon lies a little south of Scutari, a few hours’ sail 
from Pera. I thought it worth while to visit the place. It 
is a small village, indifferently built ; the situation is fine, 
a projecting point running into the Sea of Marmora. We 
walked through and around the town, but could find no 
trace or remains of the old church where the Council 
sat.* 

The Sultan usually attends mosque on Friday, which is 
the Turkish Sabbath. It is the privilege of persons who 
may be aggrieved, or may have petitions to make, to pre- 
sent them to the Sultan on these days, and he in person 
will attend to these requests and give a speedy answer. In 
case he refuses the requests, he tears the paper and returns 
it, which is final ; from this there is no appeal. An at- 
tendant of the Sultan receives them from the hand of the 
petitioner, and lays them before his master on his return 
from the mosque. 

Having ascertained what mosque the Sultan would at- 


* Com. Porter, our Charge d’ Affaires, resides at St. Stephano, ten or 
twelve miles below the city, on the European side of the Sea of Mar- 
mora. On my return from thence, I came up to the Seven Towers, 
and crossed the city in its whole extent. It took me over an hour; it 
must be four miles across. 


y. D. PAXTON ; D.D. 


267 


tend, I went in company with Mr. D., who procured a 
place in a shop, that we might see him as he passed. The 
street had been swept and sprinkled with water. Fresh 
earth had been spread along in narrow strips in parts of 
the road. It has been the custom to extend this from 
the palace to the mosque ; the street is good, which may 
account for the omission, or it may be that the Sultan, 
who is one after another changing old customs, may intend 
thus gradually to give up this ceremony of covering his path 
with fresh earth. 

Guards were placed, a few rods apart, on both sides of 
the street ; a number of people collected along the street 
to see him pass. Before twelve the procession began to 
approach. First came soldiers on horseback and on foot, 
then about half a dozen of the Sultan’s horses led by 
grooms. It is the custom for the Sultan to select, at the 
beginning of each year, a horse for his use, which horse 
has to carry his Majesty for that year ; after which, it en- 
joys a dignified rest in his Majesty’s stable, bating that in 
token of his dependence he must from time to time attend 
his master to the mosque. The horse remains at the door 
while the master enters and worships, and returns again. 

After the horses followed Seraskier Pasha, his two sons- 
in-law, and several high officers. The Sultan rode alone, 
perhaps two rods from the officers who preceded him. 
Several grooms walked near his horse. 

The Sultan Mahmoud is a fine-looking man ; he rode 
erect and firmly seated on his horse. His horse was richly 
caparisoned, but I had not time to examine the horse and 
furniture while the Sultan was on his back. The Sultan 
wore the red fez cap, which he has substituted, in his army 
and court, for the turban. It was a rich one, but had not 
a great show of ornament. He wore a fawn-colored cloak 
or mantle, fastened under his chin. He has a large black 


268 


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beard, and is said to use means to keep it of that color. 
He did not appear to notice us — we were four or five to- 
gether — until he was nearly opposite us ; we pulled off our 
hats. “ Honor the king,” says Paul ; it is a good precept. 
He cast on us a keen, piercing glance, — it was but a mo- 
ment ; he could not have prolonged it without either stop- 
ping his horse or turning his head, either of which his dig- 
nity would not allow. He passed on ; some troops and 
some officials followed. 

After waiting about thirty minutes, the Sultan and escort 
returned in the same order. He now honored us with 
more of his royal attention ; knowing where we were, he 
fixed his eyes on us at some distance from us, and gave us 
a long, keen, and penetrating look. There was not, to 
me, anything very severe in his aspect, but a good degree 
of dignity and firmness. It was the cool and dignified, 
settled expression of one who feels that he was born to 
rule. 

I could not help but think of some of those fearful 
tragedies in which he has had a high part to act. The 
death of his brother, who once sat on the throne, may not 
have been the authorized act of the Sultan, but that of 
some of his party ; but as it took place to secure him the 
undisputed right to reign, as no inquiry has ever been 
known to have been made as to who did the deed, or at 
whose command, it is natural to suppose that a brother’s 
blood must cry from the ground against him. 

In the fearful tragedy of the destruction of the Janizaries 
there is less doubt as to the part he took ; and it may be 
our moral feelings will be disposed, if not wholly to justify, 
at least to throw on him but a part of the blame. He did, 
it is true, when fully engaged in the contest, make the poor 
but guilty Janizary bring out and drink the dregs of the 
cup. But they, in their folly, had mingled it, and in their 


J. D. PAXTON, D.D. 269 

frenzied madness pressed it to his lips, leaving him but the 
fearful alternative — your neck or mine. 

Possibly he may have provoked them to engage in pro- 
jects that would justify a strong measure against them. 
However that may be, when the hour came, and all de- 
pended on a single cast, and that cast was war to the knife 
with a foe who, however recreant in other fields, had here- 
tofore been triumphant at the Seraglio, there was a moral 
greatness in the spirit with which he girded himself for the 
terrible struggle. Had he but stopped the flow of blood 
when victory was sure, — had he spared all but a few of 
the most guilty, — but indiscriminate slaughter nothing can 
justify. 

For several months past, much has been said about the 
marriage of a second daughter of Mahmoud. About two 
years ago he gave his oldest daughter in marriage to Hilile 
Pasha. This marrying of daughters may be classed, very 
fairly, among the innovations which are taking place under 
the present Sultan. It is said that, until what took place 
two years ago, there had not been a daughter of a Sultan 
married for about one hundred and twenty years. The 
fear of rivalries and contests about the throne has worked 
ruin to many an infant. It is a sure way, but one of 
dreadful guilty to destroy all the branches but one, that 
that one may encounter no rivalries and meet nothing to 
endanger its succession. Whatever the present Sultan may 
be, it must excite an interest in him, in all benevolent 
minds, to know that he has strong family feelings and 
attachments, and takes a pleasure in letting it be known. 
On his first married daughter becoming a mother, she was 
visited by her father, who embraced his little grandchild, 
and directed his officers of state to salute it as a branch of 
the royal family. It is much to his credit. It is a matter 
of course with us; but among his people, and of a line 

23* 


270 


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who for generations have acted differently, it is a noble 
triumph of good feeling over cruel custom. 

The Turkish mode of marrying and giving in marriage 
differs much from our mode, but not much from other 
Eastern nations. I have made particular inquiries into the 
subject, but will confine my notice to this marriage in the 
royal family which has engrossed so much public attention. 

The Sultan chose the husband for his daughter, and who 
more likely to make a good choice? Having made the 
selection, he gave formal notice of it to his Grand Vizier, 
his first minister. The following is a translation of it, as 
taken from the public prints : 

“ A Copy of the High August Hand. 

“ My Vizier : 

1 ‘In accordance with the law of the Holy Prophet, by 
the grace of God, I have determined to marry my honor- 
able and respectable daughter, Miliri Mah (Light of the 
Moon), Sultana, to Saaid Pasha, formerly Keeper of Dar- 
danelles, whom I have now made Counselor in my Impe- 
rial Guards. And, if it please God, a chosen time has 
been appointed for the ceremony of the espousals, after 
which the ceremony of the wedding will take place in the 
last of April, at my royal palace, at Besheck-tash. In the 
month of May, it is my will that the ceremony of the cir- 
cumcision of my two sons, Abdulh Mijid and Abdulh Aziz, 
take place at the Sweet Waters. 

“As the above Saaid Pasha is a talented young man, 
and has been educated by my Royal Highness, to execute 
exactly my royal will, it is my hope from the Most High, 
that he will be useful, and fit for many high services. It 
will therefore devolve on you, together with the general- 
in-chief, to arrange the espousals and the wedding, and 
you have my royal permission for all things necessary. 


J. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


271 


“And as such a man as Saaid Pasha ought to have a 
maintenance corresponding to his rank, you must provide 
for him out of the royal treasury. It remains, therefore, 
only that the Most High God and the beloved Prophet, 
by their grace in this, our august and royal wedding, make 
his rewards joyful and happy. 

“Amen, in the name of the Head of the Prophets.” 

The preliminaries that followed I collected partly from 
papers and partly from reports ; they were of a more private 
character. A committee of four, two to represent and re- 
gard the interests of the bride, and two those of the bride- 
groom, and to testify to the facts, waited on the bride to 
get her assent to be married to the pasha chosen for her. 
The committee was, of course, of the first men in the king- 
dom. The lady, in the presence of her mother, was asked, 
with due Turkish gravity, if she would have Saaid Pasha 
for a husband, according to the designation of her royal 
father. What a question for a young girl ! and put not by 
the adoring lover, but by the grave dignitaries of the state, 
and that before the committee had learned formally how 
the bridegroom would answer the counterpart question, 
which was afterward to be put to him ; what an odd pre- 
dicament to be put in ! and to a man she had never seen, 
unless by stealth through a lattice, or in a ride during a 
festival ! But the question must be answered, and gravely 
too, for the Turks are not a laughing, trifling, humor-making 
people. 

The story goes, that there was a due show of modesty, 
and of hesitancy, and a flutter of spirits. The good old 
mother, from pure good-will as to the honor and happiness 
of her daughter, hunched her, and, in a whisper, urged her 
to say yes ; with some such urging and coaxing, she said it 
loud enough to be heard and testified to by the committee, 


272 


MEMOIR OF 


who now had the less delicate part to do, to get the con- 
sent of the gentleman. Saaid Pasha must, of course, ac- 
cording to all the rules of decorum, have answered louder, 
without the urging, and have shown great pleasure at the 
happiness that awaited him. Mutual presents were ex- 
changed between the happy couple ; these were some 
articles which constitute what is called the espousals. The 
marriage ceremony will be performed in a few weeks. 

I availed myself of the steamer Essex to make a trip to 
Mondania, which lies across the Sea of Marmora, on the 
bay of the same name, separated by a ridge from the Bay 
of Nicomedia. Arriving, we procured horses, and in about 
five hours reached Broosa. The country is rolling, the 
ridge near the bay covered with the olive; the land was 
good, much more free from rock than usual ; but a small 
part was cultivated. A few oaks, walnuts, mulberries, and 
other trees appeared, many of them but the remnants of 
trees, having had the tops cut off many times, possibly for 
fuel, as in Savoy and Italy. 

After an hour’s ride we entered the plain which extends 
to Mount Olympus. This mount rises high, and is now 
capped with snow. As we drew near to Broosa we crossed 
and recrossed a stream of water. Broosa is famous for the 
raising and weaving of silk. The mulberry-trees are grown 
in immense numbers. They are planted from two to five 
feet apart, and the tops cut off about five or seven feet 
up. The ground is kept clear and loose to make the trees 
thrifty. Broosa is famous also for fruits. The grape-vines 
are cut close, only part of the main stock, from one to two 
feet, is left. There are in this vicinity more large trees 
(not more in number), hickory, walnut, cypress, and plane 
trees, than I have seen lately, except in the grave-yards of 
Smyrna and Constantinople. 

Broosa stands on the first rise of the plain toward Olympus. 


y. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


273 


The ground over which it is spread is rough, and in some 
places steep and precipitous. The buildings are scattered 
along the foot of the mountain some three or four miles. 
There are many mosques, they say one minaret for every 
day in the year ; this, however, is a flourish. The Greeks, 
Armenians, Turks, and Jews have each their own quarters, 
as is the custom in these Oriental cities. There may be 
from sixty to eighty thousand inhabitants. 

Revs. Schneider and Powers, American missionaries, 
with their wives, are stationed here. These young brothers 
are quite alone. A few French and Swiss the only Frank 
residents. The day I arrived, Mrs. Powers, who was in 
feeble health, read the passage where Paul said to Barnabas, 
“ Let us go and visit our brethren in every city and see how 
they do. ” “I wish, ’ ’ said she, 1 ‘ some minister would come 
out and visit us.” In a few hours she heard that I was in 
the city. I went to see her soon, and she received me as 
a brother in Christ. 

The rock on which the city stands appears to be a very 
porous travertine ; it is much used in building, and is nearly 
as porous as coral. The old town is inhabited almost 
wholly by Turks. It is on a hill that stands out a little 
from the mountain, and its front next the plain has a high 
precipice. The hill has been surrounded on the other sides 
by a double wall, like that of Constantinople, the inner one 
the highest, and, with the large square towers, those of the 
outer wall lower. 

The large mosque is about 200 feet long and 174 feet 
broad. It has some rich work, and about twenty domes. 
Some old Greek churches were used for burying-places for 
Sultans when Broosa was the Turkish capital. In one of 
these in the old city I saw the old Greek cross. 

The mosque of Bajazet, with his mausoleum, stands a little 
out of town — is of hewn marble ; we ascended the minaret, 


274 


MEMOIR OF 


which gives one of the best views of Broosa which can be 
had. As no one was in sight, we were permitted to wear 
our shoes, but when we entered the mausoleum some Mos- 
lems were near, and the same doorkeeper required us to 
take them off. The crown and turban of Bajazet were 
shown us ; also some rich copies of the Koran ; the largest 
one was locked up and the key not to be had. 

We looked in to see a potter making vessels on the wheel, 
and a glass-blower making small glass bottles. 

I took a bath, the other day, a la Turk. The building, 
as is usual, had three rooms. In the first we left our clothes 
and were furnished with three cloths — one to tie around the 
body, one for the head, and the third to throw over the 
shoulders. We passed into the next room, which was very 
warm ; after remaining here a little, we went into a third, 
in which was a large basin of water, so warm that you 
could just bear to go into it. It was a mineral water, and 
at its natural heat. We plunged in the basin, and swam 
and washed a short time, then came out and laid down 
on a board near a cock of hot water ; there the attendants 
rubbed us with a rough woolen mitten on their hands ; we 
then went in the basin again a few minutes. Then they 
soaped us well with a thick lather, and rubbed us well ; we 
washed once more, and thus finished our bath. Some of 
these waters are highly sulphurous and medicinal. 

Mr. Schneider has distributed, chiefly by sale, near 1500 
Bibles and Testaments, and 2000 other books, and many 
tracts. There is so much jealousy as to make it needful 
for these brethren and sisters to proceed with caution. 
But they are gaining the confidence of some, and by the 
time they acquire the language, so as to be able to talk 
with ease, it is hoped the way will be more open. 

On Sabbath I preached to the little band of missionaries 
and a Swiss gentleman, and administered the Lord’s Sup- 


y. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


275 


per. We had a comfortable day, spending it together at 
Mr. Powers’. On Monday I bid farewell to my dear breth- 
ren and passed on to Ghemlic, at the head of a bay in the 
Gulf of Nicomedia. A portion of this region has a soil 
equal to that of Kentucky. A letter from Mr. S. procured 
me a kind reception from a Greek family; a young man 
could speak English. 

In the morning a boy brought in a large basin with a 
cover pierced with holes, and a pitcher of water, with a 
long towel over his shoulder. I washed, holding my hands 
over the basin, while he poured water on them. “Elisha 
poured water on the hands of Elijah.” On leaving this 
hospitable household, not even the servant would receive 
any money. 

I left Ghemlic, and with a Greek guide rode eastward, 
and about two hours came in sight of the Lake of Nice. 
We passed on the south side of the lake. The mountains 
on our right were more covered with trees than any I have 
seen in Europe, Greece, or Asia. The plain was cultivated 
in grain, vines, and mulberry. As we passed up, saw many 
chestnut, almond, apricot, and other fruit-trees. Near the 
lake, columns and blocks of marble were lying about in 
places where there were no traces of buildings. One or 
two boats were on the lake; reeds, of which mats are 
made, grow along the shore. In many places there was a 
sheet of newly-formed rock, full of pebbles like those 
which lined the shore. The water is fresh, and contains 
fish. The lake is twenty-four miles long, and from eight 
to twelve broad. Nice lies at the east end of the lake, 
surrounded with double walls and towers. The city wall 
is remarkably perfect, compared with the state of the 
houses within it. It may be five miles in circuit; much of 
the space is destitute of houses, and even of ruins ; cov- 
ered with grass, and parts under cultivation. 


276 


MEMOIR OF 


There has been a pretty thorough repair of the old 
church where the Council of Nice sat. It is a low, ill- 
looking building ; a few parts of the ancient structure re- 
main, and it is filled with daubs of painting. The remains 
of the palace where the Council assembled, a.d. 315, are 
but a mass of ruins, covering a large space, — remarkable 
for the arched rooms which run under the buildings. 

In rambling around, I heard the noise of a school and 
went in. There were about a dozen boys and an old man, 
their teacher. He asked me to sit on his carpet. After 
looking at their books I returned to my lodgings for a 
modern Greek New Testament, and returned to the school. 
The old man seemed much pleased with it. I pointed him 
to John, v. 39, — “Search the Scriptures,” — and to Timo- 
thy, iii. 15, and others. I read these passages to him, and 
gave him the book, requesting him to read it much, and 
read it to his scholars, which he intimated he would do. 
The scholars crowded about us to see the book, and mani- 
fested great interest. 

A young Greek doctor, who had studied in Pisa and 
spoke Italian, showed a disappointment at my giving the 
Testament to the master, and evidently wished for it. As 
I had no other, I gave him my Italian Bible, which pleased 
him much. He could read it well, and promised to read 
it daily, and read it also to his father’s family, in which I 
stayed. May the Lord bless those books to many ! 

From Nice I passed on to Nicomedia, in a very round- 
about way, over hill and dale, some places rocky, but for 
most of the way a rich soil under cultivation, and villages, 
more or less numerous, in sight. My guide would have 
halted two hours before night, under pretext that we could 
not reach another Greek village, but I prevailed upon him 
to keep on, and two hours more riding brought us into the 
middle of a fine country through which a stream of water 
flows. 


y. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


277 


A few hours’ ride, in the morning, took 11s to Karamousal. 
The hills close in on the Gulf of Nicomedia, on the south 
side, along which we passed up. Our road lay along the 
shore, and . we had often, in getting round points, to go 
into the water; the shore is shallow, with a firm gravel 
bottom. Uncommonly fine orchards of cherry, almond, 
filbert, and other fruit, with groves of white walnut, are 
found in this region. Timber was being cut from the 
burying-grounds — the cypress uncommonly large. 

As we approached the head of the gulf the plains widened, 
the mountains lowered, and a delightful situation for a great 
city presented itself. The head of the bay is most beauti- 
fully rounded, almost a perfect half circle, with a noble, 
large plain, from which the water appears to have receded ; 
a high mount southeast of the bay is now covered with 
snow. 

The present town is built in part on the plain and on 
the side of the hill to the top. Much of the old city wall, 
which included a much larger space, is now being removed 
for the sake of the material. The Sultan is now building 
a new palace on the site of the Palace of the Caesars. 

At the west end of the new building, the remains of the 
wall of the old palace have been raised by rock to about 
ten feet, the space on arches filled with earth, in the midst 
of which is placed a grand marble basin, with a communi- 
cation from it to the baths. The remainder of the space, 
made smooth with earth, is planted with trees, shrubs, and 
flowers. The site is most beautiful, commanding a lovely 
prospect of land and water. Just below it is a new dock- 
yard, with a large vessel in the stocks. 

It was here in Nicomedia that Diocletian, instigated by 
Galerius, issued the decrees to extirpate Christianity. The 
old church in which a famous council was held, lies outside 
of the town, a mass of ruins. 


24 


2 7 8 


MEMOIR OF 


It is exceedingly difficult to obtain correct statistics of 
population in Oriental countries. I must be content with 
knowing that the inhabitants consist of Mohammedans, 
Armenians, Greeks, and a few Jews. I received kind at- 
tentions from Signor Guelielmi, to whom I had letters. 

There is a well-made road from Nicomedia to Scutari, 
and the Turkish post runs over the distance, sixty miles, 
in nine hours. The road keeps near the gulf, and passes 
many towns, at one of which, Lybissa, it is said Han- 
nibal poisoned himself and was buried. As we drew near 
Constantinople, Princes’ Isles and other charming scenes 
presented themselves. 

The Turkish post is a little, four-wheeled wagon, with a 
box-like place four feet long, two wide, and eighteen inches 
high, with a coarse, split basket in it ; over the top a cord, 
as large as a man’s finger, crossed in net fashion, for a seat. 
It has no back, no side supports. They driven four horses, 
and travel fast. 

On my return to C. I found that the wedding festivities 
had begun. They took place on the European side, at 
the palace, three miles above the city. Many tents were 
pitched on the hills near the palace ; a large number of 
troops stationed in small parties in all directions ; a place 
prepared for sports, rope-dancing, etc., for the amusement 
of the people. The rope-dancers performed many wonder- 
ful feats. Mr. D. saw one the other day take a sheep on 
his shoulder, carry it up on the rope, twelve feet from the 
ground, kill it, skin it in part, cut out a piece of flesh, put 
it on a pan of coals, which another had brought him on 
the rope, boil it, and eat it there. These performances 
took place during the day, and a great display of fire- 
works were exhibited at night. The Bosphorus was illu- 
minated from Seraglio Point to the Black Sea, a distance 
of eighteen miles. These amusements continued for four 


J. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


279 

or five days, and other matters filled the time. One day, 
for instance, a splendid dinner was given to the foreign 
ambassadors. The Sultan did not dine with them, but 
most of his ministers did. I was told, by one that was 
present, that the company was large. I was admitted to 
the tent with a few friends, but not allowed to remain long. 
The tent was constructed of posts set in the ground, 
wrapped with silk, a rich covering of silk drawn over the 
top, and elegant silk curtains hanging from all sides. Mir- 
rors were placed at opposite ends. * The plate, gold and 
silver, and everything most royal. It reminded me of the 
splendid feast of King Ahasuerus’ Esther. 

Many pashas were invited, and were expected to bring 
presents to the Sultan; and woe be to the person who, 
being invited to this royal wedding, should refuse to come. 
This is an ancient custom, and gives much force to the 
parable in Luke, xiv. The Sultan even chartered a steamer 
and sent it to Cyprus, to bring to the wedding the gov- 
ernor of that island and his present. Whether he most 
desired the presence of the pasha or his present, my in- 
formant saith not. 

The multitude who attended daily became greater and 
greater, — men, women, and children, old and young. Im- 
mense numbers of Turkish women on foot, and in carts 
drawn by oxen, were seen looking at the exhibitions on the 
ropes and such follies. 

Their mode of illumination is good. The lights are fixed 
on a framework before the house or in some open place ; 
a small cup or tumbler is in part filled with water, and oil 
put on the top, and a wick placed in it. This is set in a 
wire ring, the ends of which are placed in a hole in the 
frame; a small tin cover over the glass protects the 
light from wind or rain. The frames are of all shapes, 
and the lamps arranged to form some device, as a palace 


28 o 


MEMOIR OF 


front, star, gate, bridge, tree, or whatever else fancy may 
select. 

Most of the ships and forts were illuminated. I took a 
boat one evening and rowed up the stream six or seven 
miles. The effect of these lights from the water is very 
fine. The villages on both sides, the palaces, twenty in 
number, and the forts, all had these frames, and the largest 
of them must have contained from three to five thousand 
lights. 

Floating forts were anchored opposite Besheck - tash, 
where the festivities of the marriage were mainly concen- 
trated. Troops on these erections sent up immense numbers 
of rockets and fireworks from dark till near midnight. 
Miniature ships, rigged completely, large enough to hold 
two or three men, were plying around. Two carriages, 
drawn by white horses, and their drivers, were nicely imi- 
tated, fixed on a boat-like bottom ; the wheels would turn 
and move the concern like paddles. These wound about 
and played off fireworks from the windows ; they seemed 
to roll along in the water. There was a boat intended, in 
shape and appearance, to represent a whale. It was a very 
good imitation, as it moved about in the darkness of the 
night and from time to time let off great explosions of fire- 
works. 

I am sure I am tired of writing of this folly, but it is 
worth looking at in one point of view, — it shows what is 
interesting in the eye of a Turk. Here the wealth of a 
kingdom is employed to please the people ; and thus the 
wisdom of the nation resolves to exhibit the glory of the 
Sultan — the riches of his glorious majesty ! But we have 
not yet come to the great and most striking things in these 
festivities. 

The carrying the dower to the house of the bridegroom, 
or, in other words, the outfit the father gives the daughter, 


y. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


281 


precedes the taking of the bride to her new home. In this 
instance a great affair was made of it. The sofas on which 
the lady was to sit — the many things which Turks have in 
their establishments, which we have nothing precisely like, 
were not allowed to travel quietly and alone from one 
palace to another, but must be escorted with all the dignity 
becoming things of royalty. If ease alone were consulted, 
they might have been taken by water ; but there must be 
display — the people must see it, — and a singular procession 
and display it was. 

As the road was from six to eight miles, there was ample 
room and choice of places to those who were early on the 
ground. I took my position on the top of a hill, some 
distance above Besheck-tash, and found many people there, 
but the crowds from the city were but beginning to pour 
out. It was astonishing to see the multitudes that arranged 
themselves on the sides of the road to see the lady’s goods 
and chattels pass. 

First came lancers, each with a small red flag on the top 
of his lance ; next a numerous train of officials, officers of 
the palace, etc. Then followed forty mules, loaded with 
furniture, sofas, cushions, trunks, washstands, and I know 
not what. Next nearly twenty small wagons, each drawn 
by four horses, loaded with all sorts of things ; then about 
one hundred and sixty or more porters, bearing vessels, mir- 
rors, pitchers, bowls, ornaments, jewelry, etc. The whole 
was so arranged as to set it off with the greatest effect. 
One porter might have carried what was divided among 
three or four, but the impression made by numbers would 
have been lost. The train extended for miles, a company 
of lancers forming the rear. I did not follow on to see 
how it was received. It was enough to have walked two 
or three miles and have waited several hours to see this 
sample of Eastern display. 

24* 


282 


MEMOIR OF 


The day following, a similar procession passed over the 
same ground, to take home the bride and deliver her to 
her husband, whom she is supposed never to have seen. 
The etiquette of Turkish manners — the higher the class 
the more strict — is that the lady see not the gentleman, and 
especially that she be not seen by him. The exclusion is 
not really so great as is often represented. I saw, during 
these festivities, many ladies of rich and wealthy families, 
as their equipages indicated, and several open carriages, 
filled with the Sultan’s harem, pass through the crowd, 
drawn by their richly adorned white oxen, with their tails 
tied up to a pole that passed over their backs. The oxen 
often stopped, always moved at a snail’s pace when they did 
move, and if the ladies did cover their faces from the nose 
down and from the eyes up, they did not spare their eyes, 
but gave them full license to look at all persons and things 
that came within reach, and to be looked at again as much 
as any one might please. 

The crowd that came out to see the bridal procession 
was very great indeed — more numerous than what had 
looked upon the dower. First came troops of lancers with 
their red flags, preceded by a full band of music ; then offi- 
cers of the army and navy, a large body of officers of the 
%palace, six or eight moolahs, or priests, splendidly dressed, 
and accompanied by many attendants; then pashas, officers, 
highest pashas, eunuchs of the palace ; a superb carriage and 
eight, with two sons of the Sultan ; a second carriage and 
six, almost covered with gold, in which the bride was said 
to be, — on the window rested a white hand , but it seemed 
too large for a lady in her teens; four or five rich carriages 
and six, with women and children and attendants; near 
forty more carriages — most of them of European fashion, 
the remainder Turkish arabas; then a large parcel of non- 
descript vehicles, filled with women and children ; the whole 


y. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


283 


closed again with companies of lancers. These processions 
were attended by tens of thousands of women, and, what 
was more remarkable, they were out to see the illuminations 
at night, a thing said to be new until now. 

The Turkish women usually go out in companies of four 
to eight. They have no male attendant, except the driver, 
when they go in an araba. 

The bride was taken to the palace given her by her 
father, and installed in the apartments. The parties who 
made the engagement remained, and after the last hour of 
prayer took Saaid Pasha to the apartments of Miliri Mah 
and put him in possession of all they contain. He be- 
comes the lord of the manor. 

The enjoyments of society, with us, — the moral purity, 
the refined and social pleasures, — spring greatly from the 
female part of it. The absence of it leaves a roughness, 
and often a rudeness, that bears hard on all the fine moral 
sentiments in man. I have often noticed this in traveling 
in our public vehicles. I have made part of a company in 
a stage-coach or steamboat where there was no woman, and 
been wounded at the rudeness and coarseness, not to give 
it a harder name, of men who wore the garb of gentlemen; 
and I have witnessed the entrance of a genteel woman 
produce, as if by magic, a change of a most grateful 
kind. A politeness, a careful avoidance of all impure sen- 
timent, a delicate regard for the proprieties of refined 
society, has been manifested by the same persons who but 
a few hours before were uttering most unseemly sentiments. 

Now the Turks are, unhappily, by their customs, cut off 
from a free intercourse with a varied female society. Is it 
to be wondered at that they should exhibit an absence of 
fine moral sentiment? Articles not subjected to the mate- 
rial that polishes and refines cannot be expected but to ex- 
hibit the want of polish. 


284 


MEMOIR OF 


The marriage festivities did not last as many days as was 
expected. The cause assigned was a death among the 
women of the royal household. 

The Sweet Waters is the name of a place toward the 
head of the Golden Horn, and, by land, not more than 
five miles from the city. The grounds are pretty, well 
shaded with trees; the Sultan has a splendid palace there, 
and a beautiful kiosk. The preparations for the festivities 
of the circumcision had gone on simultaneously with those 
of the marriage. 

A few days after the close of the latter, the harem went, 
in boats, up the Golden Horn to the palace at the Sweet 
Waters. The rope-dancers, the merriment-making people, 
and the fireworks were all transferred there, and began an- 
other campaign. 

I went up to see what was going on. There were many 
soldiers encamped on the hills, and all the apparatus for 
amusing the people in full operation. There were many 
extensive suits of buildings of one story high, furnished 
with sofas, and open in front. Many were circumcised in 
the forenoon, and the amusements engaged attention in 
the after part of the day. Although the feast was avowedly 
given to grace the circumcision of the Sultan’s sons, yet it 
is confidently said — I know not on what authority — that 
they are not subjected to that rite, — that it is contrived, in 
operating on the many hundreds who are associated with 
them, to pass over them, that the royal blood be not spilt. 
The Mohammedans circumcise at the age of seventeen. 

The Turks, with all their gravity and silence, are fond of 
shows, but chiefly of dumb shows. It is not uncommon, at 
these feasts, to see thousands who will sit on their heels 
almost the whole day looking at a man walking on a rope, 
or performing some feats on a rope ten or fifteen feet from 
the ground. One object which I have had in view in visit- 


D. PAXTON, D.D. 


285 

in g these immense assemblies of people, and at these times 
and places, where all may be supposed to be done that is 
most congenial to their tastes, was to see if I could obtain a 
clear insight into Turkish character, and in the unsuspecting 
moments of their good humor, — for who will not be in good 
humor when the successor of the prophet is doing so much 
to give them pleasure? — to see if I could not read them more 
fully. I am not sure that I have gained my object; yet I 
have had a practical exhibition of the tastes, manners, and 
habits of Turks, Armenians, and Jews, that is worth ob- 
taining. 

Hearing that the Sultan would go by water to attend a 
mosque, I went to see him embark. We took our station 
on the quay, near his barges. They were richly ornamented 
with devices in gold. The one nearest us had on the cover 
or roof, supported by four pillars, a gold globe with spikes 
standing out as rays of the sun; under this a splendidly 
cushioned seat, and a rich sofa on the floor before it. His 
highness did not come out of the palace where we hoped 
he would ; the boats were ordered to a flight of steps lead- 
ing from a piazza to the water. When he got in the barge 
the band began to play, the ships ran up their colors and 
began firing salutes, which was continued by the ships along 
the Bosphorus. 

After this I went to see the whirling dervishes. Their 
room for worship is a neat building, of an octangular form, 
with a small gallery. There is a space, say of eight feet, 
round the wall, set off with a low railing, where spectators 
may stand. The area for exercise may be twenty-five feet in 
diameter ; a narrow mat is laid round near the railing, on 
which the dervishes take their seats as they enter, after 
having made a most profound bow, and stooped down and 
kissed the floor. 

They all wear a coarse, high, conical cap, with a thick 


286 


MEMOIR OF 


edge where the brim ought to be, of a whitish, dirty color. 
Most of them have a large mantle, of various colors, and 
under that a close white cotton jacket and petticoat which 
reaches to the floor, made funnel-like, so that at the waist, 
where it is wrapped with a girdle, it sets nearly close, while 
at the lower part it gives ample room for the longest step 
any may make. 

They continued to come in to the number of twenty ; 
several then went into the gallery, and slow music from 
a wind instrument was heard. Two, with green sashes 
wrapped round the dervish cap, took their seats on a small 
carpet opposite the music in the gallery. When the music 
began, the dervishes rose and laid aside their mantles, and 
walked slowly round the room in single file, led on by the 
two with the green turbans, who retained their cloaks or 
mantles ; as they came to the rich carpet on which their 
turbaned leaders had been sitting, they bowed low, and 
passing by it with their faces to it bowed low again before 
they resumed their upright position, and renewed the line 
of march. The leaders did the same. 

After making the circle of the room several times, the 
leaders took their stand at the red carpet, with their backs 
to the railing; the rest, as they passed, bow r ed; a few of 
the first kissed the right hand of the leaders, and passing on, 
began to whirl ; at first their arms were crossed on their 
breasts, and the hands laid on the shoulders; their arms, 
however, were soon thrown out and kept in a horizontal 
position, the right hand with the palm up and the left with 
it down. 

As each one began to whirl as he passed the leader, they 
were soon all whirling ; at first the motion was slow, but it 
soon became faster and faster, until they went like a top. 
Their long, loose, funnel-shaped skirts, with a broad, heavy 
hem below, were soon filled with wind, and stood out to 


J. D . PAXTON, D.D. 


287 


their full dimensions. Their faces were slightly turned up, 
and had an abstracted, and contemplative air. The room 
was filled with them, yet they did not run against each 
other ; there was a gradual motion round the room in the 
way they had walked, but their chief motion was a rotary 
one, and that was pretty quick. 

After whirling about five minutes, they made a pause for 
a short space, standing on the mat round the railing. 
Then passing round, single file, bowing to their leader, 
they began again to whirl. This was renewed several 
times ; the last time they spun round near eight minutes, 
and appeared more exhausted than usual. While they 
stood they crossed their hands on their breasts ; when they 
whirled they spread out their hands and looked up. The 
dervishes are a class of Moslem monks. The howling 
order has been suppressed. 

There were a good many spectators present. How pain- 
ful it is to see such strange perversions of the religious 
principle ! All men have a feeling that religion is need- 
ful ; but when the word of God is not followed, into what 
strange and foolish practices do men fall ! 

One of the most pleasing excursions I ever made was up 
the Bosphorus and along the shore of the Black Sea, in 
company with Mr. Dwight and Mr. and Mrs. Jackson. 
The freshness of the vegetation, the fortifications, the ship- 
ping, the magnificent palaces of the Sultan, with those of 
his pashas, the many villages, with the mansions of the 
wealthy, the residences of foreign ambassadors, with the 
gardens and groves in the background, presented panoramic 
views of great beauty. 

May 17. Left Constantinople in the steamer and re- 
turned to Smyrna. At the suggestion of the brethren, in 
part, took passage in a Greek vessel for Beyroot, in com- 
pany of Miss Tilden, who had been detained four months 


288 


MEMOIR OF 


for an opportunity to proceed on her way to Jerusalem, 
and Mr. and Mrs. E. Fuaz, native Christians, who had been 
sent on a few days before to escort her to Syria. I was re- 
quested to act in some sort as paterfajnilias of the company. 

After making the necessary preparation and procuring 
provisions for the voyage, I learned that the vessel must 
go via Syra to procure her papers. This being out of the 
way, I was on the point of declining ; but as no other 
vessel offered, and the captain entered into a written en- 
gagement not to stop over twenty-four hours, and at no 
other place on the route, except Cyprus, I continued my 
engagement. We had chartered the vessel, but on sailing, 
found that the captain had picked up about twenty other 
passengers. However, they did not occupy much room 
by day, and at night laid down on deck — anywhere — to 
sleep. I brought out some Greek and Italian books, Bibles 
and tracts, and soon had the pleasure of seeing the greater 
part of them engaged in reading. 

I had passed up and down the Gulf of Smyrna several 
times before in a steamboat, and always at night ; on the 
present occasion I had more time to look at it than I 
cared for. We were nearly three days in getting opposite 
Scio, annoyed with head winds, or what is worse to the 
sailor, with no wind from any quarter. We were seven 
days in coming from Smyrna to the Island of Syra. Here 
we were not allowed to iand on account of quarantine 
regulations. This being the season when plague usually 
visits Smyrna, the laws are strictly enforced. However 
the question of utility may be decided, these quarantines 
are a great annoyance to trade and traveling. 

Our missionary friends came off in a boat, and we learned 
that they had had much trouble since I was here two months 
ago. Great efforts have been made to excite prejudices 
against the missionaries and their operations, books and 


y. 'D. PAXTON ; D.D. 


289 


Bibles destroyed, and pupils withdrawn from schools. 
Through the kindness of Revs. L. and R., I replenished 
my supply of Bibles and tracts. 

The number of islands in the Grecian seas is very great. 
The many small islands and rocks, which do not appear on 
the maps, meet the eye of the voyager, break the uni- 
formity, and give variety to the watery world by which he 
is surrounded. Although our course did not lead us 
through the thickest clusters, it gave us a view of as many 
of the larger and more important ones as any one course 
could have done. From Syra we passed in nearly a direct 
course east, till we were near Patmos, near enough to see 
that it is a rough and mountainous isle, It was the native 
place and home of our captain. He informed me that the 
population was small, but he wished somebody would estab- 
lish a school there ; that a good man, a missionary, some 
time before had established one, but not having been 
visited since, it was not doing much good. He thought, 
as I run over the names of several missionaries, that Brewer 
was the name. It is found that those who offer as teachers 
in these regions are so little trustworthy that, without a 
pretty constant watch over them, they will not give that 
attention to schools that is indispensable to make them a 
real blessing to a people. 

From Patmos, we bore to the southeast, keeping the 
large open passage, having Levitha, Zinari, and Livourne 
on our right, and Lero, Calimnos, and Cos on our left. 
Passing Cos and Nisari, with Piscopi, Karki, and Rhodes 
on our right, we were fairly out of the Grecian seas, and 
have now a plain of water before us and the Asiatic coast, 
with its isles, and promontories, and deep bays looking 
down upon our left. Of all that I have yet- seen, these 
Grecian isles appear to be the most barren and destitute 
of trees, — I had almost said of life, for they seem to have 


2 5 


290 


MEMOIR OF 


but little of animated nature upon them. Perhaps a nearer 
inspection would not place them thus low in the scale of 
vegetative worth. 

The Sabbath passed off with us better than I had reason 
to hope. As the greater part of those on board could un- 
derstand but little of anything else than Greek and Italian, 
I had no other mode of doing them good than by supplying 
them with religious reading. There had been a good deal 
of playing at a game, a little like chess, and I feared that 
it might be engaged in on the Sabbath. It was, indeed, 
once begun. I perhaps showed by my countenance that I 
did not approve of it, but said nothing ; it was in a few 
minutes discontinued and the apparatus put aside. Appli- 
cation was made to buy some of the books ; I told them to 
read them, and when the Sabbath was passed, I would 
supply them. I have disposed of most of them. 

Night came on as we drew near Rhodes, and the next 
morning it was so far in the distance that we had not a 
very clear view of it. It is an island of considerable size, 
celebrated for a stupendous colossal brazen image which 
once bestrode the harbor, and also for the splendid defense 
which the Knights there made against the Turks. They 
were at length obliged to capitulate, and took their next 
and last stand at Malta, where the order may be said to 
have found its grave. Sic transit gloria mandi! Like many 
other names of men, and families, and powers, they are 
only found in the record of the past “ to point a sentence 
or adorn a song.” 

Soon after passing Rhodes, the Asiatic coast fell back, 
and gave way to a wide-spread bay. The mountains far to 
the north told the bounds of the water, and I thought I 
could discover towns, but the view was too distant to be 
satisfactory. 

The northeast side of this bay is bounded by a high 


y. D. PAXTON ; D.D. 


291 


mountain, which, running into the sea, forms a bold and 
far projecting promontory. This state of the coast con- 
tinued, with occasional islands, bays, and promontories, 
from fifty to one hundred miles, when a larger bay, with 
high mountains behind it and many barren and peculiarly 
rocky islands scattered in it, came into view. To our great 
dissatisfaction, the captain ran in and cast anchor for the 
night in a harbor of one of the principal islands. The bay 
was one of the most beautiful I have ever seen ; the water 
uncommonly clear, from fifteen to twenty feet deep. A 
kind of sea-moss spread its dull-green covering over the 
bottom. Fish of considerable size could be seen moving 
about below us. 

I landed at Castle Rosse, ascended to the fort, and had 
a good view of the town. The houses are indifferent, 
built of stone, with flat roofs, like those of Malta. A large 
church is being erected. It has two rows of granite pillars 
within it. On inquiring where they were procured, I was 
told from the old ruins of Patara, twenty miles off. The 
Patara most likely mentioned in Acts, xxi. 1. 

Having asked for the priest, a messenger ran and brought 
him. He said they had a school for bpys, and showed me 
the prayer-books used in the church. They appeared new, 
were well kept, and were in ancient Greek. Finding that 
he had no copy of the Scriptures, I told him if he would 
visit our vessel I would furnish him with the New Testa- 
ment, Pentateuch, Psalms, and Isaiah, in modern Greek. 
He promised to come, but failed to do so, before we sailed, 
which was soon after our return. I regretted this the more, 
as I wished to put a few copies into the school. 

The church, though not finished, was adorned with some 
ugly pictures; and several persons prostrated themselves 
before them. Wishing a sample of the granite, and sup- 
posing that in fitting them some chips might be about, I 


292 


MEMOIR OF 


asked the priest to get me a piece. To my surprise, he 
took a hammer and knocked off a piece from one of the 
pillars and gave it to me. Not unlikely, he thought I 
wanted it as a holy relic. 

In passing out of this bay we had a clearer insight into 
the peculiar geological conformation of the coast than we 
had before enjoyed. A low mountain, rising high as it 
runs east, tapers down irregularly at the bay and sinks 
under the water, throwing up, however, rude masses of 
naked rocks for miles across the mouth of the bay, then 
rises in the high rocky island on which Castle Rosse stands, 
and those that lie west of it. Back of these hills, and far- 
ther in the interior, mountains behind mountains rise ; the 
highest are now, June 10, covered with snow; and thus, as 
we pass toward Cyprus, our last land object will be the 
snow-capped tops of the mountains of Asia Minor. 

We approached the western end of Cyprus, and sailed 
round south of it to the port of Larnica, on the eastern 
shore. The island is large, resembling the face of country 
in Asia Minor. The distinguishing feature, .the whitish 
appearance of the hills, resembling the chalk cliffs of Dover 
and the coasts of the islands at the mouth of the Gulf of 
Smyrna. 

I sent letters on shore to the American missionaries, Mr. 
and Mrs. Pease and Mr. J. Thompson. They called in a 
boat, but quarantine would not allow of our calling on 
them. They are hopeful in regard to their prospects, but 
the mission is not of long standing. 

I have been much gratified to find such a brotherly spirit 
prevailing among the missionaries around the Mediterranean. 
Some of them have never met, but they all feel a common 
interest, and one tie binds them all as members of one 
loving family. And I will add, especially pleased with the 
way their children are managed.' They take great care in 


J. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


2 93 


their training, keep them under their own influence, pray 
much for and with them. I have seldom seen children 
more interesting or better behaved than those of these 
families. There are now about fifty, I suppose, at the dif- 
ferent stations. 

It should be borne in mind that though the Greek 
Church does not use sculpture in worship, and charges this 
on the Romanists as idol worship, its members are as mad 
after their pictures and the sign of the cross as the veriest 
Papist can be after images of wood and stone. To worship 
an image is a very bad thing, while not to worship a pic- 
ture is as bad. Thus, the missionaries are considered as 
almost atheists, because they do not worship the picture of 
the Virgin. If a picture be not an image, one would think 
it ought to be a likeness, at least, and the prohibition to 
worship images includes likenesses. It is true that most 
of the pictures I have seen in the Greek churches can 
hardly be said to be “a likeness of anything in the heavens 
above, or the earth beneath, or the waters under the earth.” 
They are like nothing but each other, a kind of family like- 
ness prevails among them, being the most ill-favored things 
that were ever made to excite the recollection of human 
beings. 

Their churches are full of such pictures. They bow down 
before them, kneel, touch, and kiss the floor, and approach 
and kiss the picture. Most of the large pictures have a small 
picture placed under them, a representation of the larger 
one, to be kissed in its place. I have seen a person go 
from one side of the church to the other, taking the pic- 
tures in regular order, bowing, prostrating, and kissing each 
one as he passed. 

The missionaries, of course, do not encourage this, but 
for the most part say little against it, thinking it is the best 
way to impart general and Biblical information, and leave 

25* 


294 


MEMOIR OF 


that to operate on all these abuses. I am not sure that 
they may not have carried this forbearance far enough, but 
am not prepared to say they have not taken the right course, 
taking things as they are. The alarm is now given, and it 
is charged, as a fault, that they do not worship the pictures. 
They may now be obliged to tell why they do not and make 
the appeal to the word of God. 

The Greek churches are without seats ; the people seldom 
sit in worship, or kneel in prayer — to kneel before the pic- 
ture and kiss the floor excepted. In some cases I have seen 
frames placed in the middle of the church, high enough for 
a person to lean on, intended for supports to aged and in- 
firm persons. 

The priests read the service in ancient Greek, and so 
loud and fast that few can understand one word in ten of 
what is said. There is a lightness and irreverence in their 
manner that is painful. They have almost no preaching. 
That most important part of worship — that most valuable 
mode of operating on the moral and intellectual character 
of a people is almost gone out of use in all these Eastern 
branches of the church. 

The Greek priests are, for the most part, ignorant, but, 
report says, not so corrupt as the Romanists; they are 
more open to improvement, and less prejudiced against 
those who differ from them. What are called Greek Catho- 
lics, are those who admit the claims of the Pope, but are 
much the same in rites and ceremonies. I fear there is a 
union of feeling and action, at present, to stop the prog- 
ress of light and information. 

Taking human nature as it is, we must expect that at 
some stage of the progress of light which is dawning on 
these regions an excitement will take place. The prince 
of darkness will not let the light come in to disturb the 
peace of his subjects without showing signs of displeasure. 


y. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


295 


It may be a cause of regret that more light has not been 
shed abroad before a contest takes place. My impression 
is that the recent opposition is but the prelude to a great 
conflict which may impede but not wholly stop' the prog- 
ress of truth. I know that it will not go on without the 
blessing of God, and I dare not say that the people of 
these regions may not reject the light ; like the Gadarenes, 
they may say, Go out of our coasts, and it may be He will. 

But, on the other hand, God in his providence has 
brought so many things to bear in favor of the advance of 
light and truth, — so many causes are at work now, that I see, 
in the little or great opposition which may be made by those 
who have their gain from keeping out the light, no suffi- 
cient reason to believe that all the preparation made for its 
advance is like the flowers that load a tree that never bears 
fruit. I hope and believe better things. 


296 


MEMOIR OF 


CHAPTER IX. 


Palestine and Egypt — Return to the United States — Reasons and 
Explanations — Sixteen Years’ Residence in Kentucky as Pastor of 
Mulberry Church, Shelby County. 

W E reached Beyroot about the middle of June, 1836; 

found the missionaries absent on the mountains, to 
which they usually resort in the hot months, and after per- 
forming a quarantine of two weeks I went to the mountains 
and resigned my charge of Miss T. 

I spent part of the hot weather in Beyroot a$d part on 
the mountains, and made a tour to the Sunneen, the highest 
peak of Lebanon, and another to Damascus, and on my 
return visited the ruins of Baalbec, crossed the plain to the 
Cedars of Lebanon, and returned to Beyroot by way of 
Tripoli and Jebail. 

When the heats were passed, I made the tour of Pales- 
tine. I proceeded by water to Jaffa, thence on horseback 
to Jerusalem. After spending some days there, I visited 
Bethlehem and south to Hebron, the Jordan, and the Dead 
Sea, bathing in the waters, and returned to Beyroot via 
Plains of Esdralon, Lake of Tiberius, Nazareth, Acre, Tyre, 
and Sidon. For particulars, see my Notes of Travel. 

On reaching Syria I found the misson weakened by the 
absence of two of the oldest and most efficient members. 
Messrs. Bird and Smith, owing to the protracted ill health 
of their wives, had been compelled to leave. Messrs. 
Whiting and Lanneau were at Jerusalem, and Messrs. 
Thomson and Hebard at Beyroot. At the request of these 


J. D. PAXTON , i D.D. 


297 


brethren, I gave such aid as I could, particularly in con- 
ducting a religious service on Sabbath in English, which 
collected a pleasant number of European and Arab hearers 
who understood that language. 

Toward the end of the year, after my tour through Pal- 
estine, I had about made up my mind to go to Egypt, 
spend the winter in exploring that country, and then re- 
turn to the United States, when I was waited on by a com- 
mittee of the mission, with a special request that I would 
remain and assist them until more help should arrive. They . 
stated that unless I did, a part of the work must stop. The 
press, the distribution of books, the schools and the preach- 
ing in Arabic and English could not all be carried on with- 
out more help. 

After serious consideration, I consented to remain for a 
time, and engaged in the work, continuing until near the 
end of two years from the time I arrived in the country. 
During this time I married Mrs. M. W. Dodge, widow of 
Dr. Asa Dodge, who died at Jerusalem some years before I 
reached that place. He left two little daughters, Mary 
Merrill and Matilda Whiting, whom I adopted, and have 
tried to raise as my own. 

The return of Rev. Smith, and some other matters, in- 
duced me to conclude that I would leave for the United 
States. In the spring of 1838 I revisited Jerusalem with 
my family, and spent a few weeks. There Dr. Dodge lay 
buried on Mount Zion ; there Mrs. P. had passed through 
trials of no common kind, and I wished her daughters to 
see the grave of their father. A neat stone had been pre- 
pared, and I left with Rev. W. means for its erection, that 
it might designate the spot where, in his youthful prime, he 
had fallen asleep in Jesus. We also visited Bethlehem and 
other places in the vicinity. 

It was not without feelings of sorrow that I left Syria. 


298 


MEMOIR OF 


To Mrs. P. it was a great grief, which even the hope of 
meeting dear friends on the other side of the Atlantic 
could not compensate. Her choice had been made not 
without a struggle between conflicting interests, the pangs 
of parting from home and country gone through, the haz- 
ards of voyages encountered, the process of acclimation 
and the discomforts of a new mode of life passed away, 
heavy afflictions endured ; and now, at home with the na- 
tives, many of whom she had learned to love, familiar with 
the language, so as to communicate readily with them, with 
invigorated health and more self-reliance, with facilities of 
increasing her influence not before enjoyed, she must re- 
linquish the hope of usefulness which Providence seemed so 
brightly spreading out before her, and turn from the work 
without seeing one good reason why she was called to make 
the sacrifice. A mystery enveloped the whole matter, 
which could not be dispelled without implicating some in 
whom she had placed great confidence. Silent acquies- 
cence, and a trust that this was among the “all things 
that work together for good,” was all that was left us. 

Desirous of procuring a healthy and comfortable resi- 
dence for my family, I had advanced money to Yacob Aga to 
finish the upper rooms of his house, which he had projected 
on a large scale, and was finishing in a plain but neat style. 
The house was on an elevation, just outside the walls of 
Beyroot, commanding a view of the town and harbor, the 
gardens, the long range of Lebanon, and a wide expanse 
of the sea on the western horizon. The prospect from the 
upper terrace was pronounced, by travelers, as unrivaled in 
beauty. 

Through the kindness of Mr. Kilby, a merchant, I was 
relieved from any pecuniary embarrassment that might 
otherwise have attended our removal. With a noble 
generosity, he repaid me the money advanced for the 


y. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


299 


house, and purchased my piano, which I had ordered from 
Germany. I would state this as a kind Providence that 
prepared a way for us to leave. 

We bade farewell to the mission friends at Jerusalem — 
went down to Jaffa, and the following week embarked in a 
Turkish brig for Alexandria, in Egypt. Confined to the 
lazaretto for half a month, we were then set free, and 
took a canal-boat to Atfeh, and then a boat on the Nile to 
Cairo, where we received kind attentions from German 
missionaries, who made our stay very pleasant. The fine, 
healthy condition of our children attracted much attention, 
contrasted with the puny, sickly appearance of the European 
children that were met with. A Frenchman who had re- 
sided some years in Abyssinia, catching a sight of the 
plump, rosy-cheeked, fair-skinned Martha, in its mother’s 
arms, exclaimed, with uplifted hands, “Where did that 
child come from?” On being told, continued, “Madame, 
there is not such another in the land of Egypt !” 

We rode out to the Pyramids of Ghizeh, and explored 
what was interesting in that locality, and then returned to 
Alexandria. We were six days in coming down the river 
— strong winds from the north impeding our progress. 

On the 15th of July we sailed in the American brig 
Carroll, Captain Simpson, bound for New York. August 
27th we cast anchor in the harbor of Gibraltar, but were 
not allowed to land — we took in a supply of fresh water 
and fruit and, kept on our way — experienced one storm on 
the Atlantic, and completed the voyage in eighty-eight 
days. A long time to be confined on board a small trading 
vessel. In many respects our voyage was a pleasant one. 
For ’the particulars of the voyage, etc., see my Letters on 
Palestine and Egypt. 

From New York, where we were kindly received into the 
family of my old friend, John Morton, we went to Port- 


3 °° 


MEMOIR OF 


land, Maine, the native place of Mrs. P.; visited the father 
and mother of Dr. Dodge, at New Castle, and went as far 
East as Bangor. Returning, we set our faces to the west, 
to find a field of labor, accompanied with the youngest 
sister of Mrs. P. 

From Philadelphia we passed to Pittsburg. At this place 
I commenced giving lectures on Palestine, having been 
importuned by many persons to do so. I gave lectures also 
in Cincinnati, Louisville, and Shelbyville, Ky., etc. Was 
invited to settle at Mulberry Church, which I did, and re- 
mained with that people about sixteen years. I then 
accepted an invitation to move to Princeton, Indiana, 
where I now am with my family — a.d. 1857. 

I think it proper to refer briefly to the reasons why I 
left the mission-field and returned with my family to the 
United States. It must be borne in mind that I went out 
as a traveler, but having for a time acted as an agent for 
the A. B. C. F. M., I felt a deep interest in the work, and, 
when in France, concluded I would visit the missions in 
the Mediterranean, and learn the openings in Providence 
for evangelizing those countries, and what efforts were best 
calculated to remove the darkness and superstition which 
had so long rested on God’s heritage. 

The matter of my remaining as a missionary was often 
suggested to me during this tour, and ways in which I 
could advance the work pointed out. On consenting to 
remain according to the wishes of the brethren at Beyroot, 
I thought best to apply to the Board for a commission. 
Another question now came up, that had occupied my 
thoughts while passing among the stations. The plan of 
operation, the mode of conducting missions to the Oriental 
churches. The care taken not to excite prejudice and 
opposition by condemning those perversions and additions 


J. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


3 CI 


that wholly neutralize the truth, the allowing professed 
converts to continue in fellowship with those corrupt 
churches, and in many ways, by what was called sapping 
and mining, to overthrow those errors, could not but be 
noticed as a peculiar feature of the work. 

From the first I stood in doubt of it. Yet such was my 
regard for the opinion of those who had for years been in 
the field, and for the judgment of those under whose 
direction they acted, that I did not feel clear in giving an 
opinion against the plan. But now, having for near two 
years looked at and seen its effects, and that from some 
stand-points not possible to the missionary, and being 
engaged to remain, I concluded I would frankly, in private 
letters to those who had asked my opinion, give it, with 
my reasons for a plain and more open course with these 
idolatrous and apostate churches. 

I did this in three or four letters to as many individuals. 
These letters were not all answered. Some partially an- 
swered, but my chief reasons against their practice not met 
and replied to. Two of the brethren requested that I 
“would not write home or publish my opinions, as they 
might disturb the churches.” 

From letters to others, I found that offense was taken, 
and from the delay of an answer from the Rooms at 
Boston, and the wording of the answer when it did come, 
I suspected that my opinions had been reported to the 
Board, or more definitely, “the Prudential Committee,” 
with such comments as very naturally led to the result. 
The whole matter did not, however, come out until I 
reached the United States and had a free conversation 
with some connected with the Board, who distinctly in- 
formed me, that letters from missionaries had caused the 
result. Instead of answering me promptly, which might 

26 


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have been done in six weeks, by mail, I was kept waiting 
much the greater part of the year. 

I was satisfied by conversing with Christians in New 
England^ that the churches, and even the great mass of 
the Board, did not understand the policy pursued, until 
the subject was brought out in public partly through Mr. 
Brewer’s publications and my letters to him. It was, in- 
deed, difficult for those who had not been on the ground, 
to understand the case. I had, in my letters, stated dis- 
tinctly, that I did not advocate an exclusive and perpetual 
dwelling on the errors and superstitions of those churches ; 
but I did desire, that in connection with a setting forth of 
gospel a?id law truth there should be a plain and frequent 
exposure of those errors which obscure and neutralize the 
truth , and that the word of God should be brought to bear 
on these superstitions in all their forms. Nor did I ad- 
vocate a rough , provoking , or denunciatory mode of preach- 
ing ; it was to be done in the spirit of love, but let it be 
plain, and bold, faithful, as becomes those who are am- 
bassadors for Christ. 

Soon after my return a gradual change took place, and 
some, who had been the greatest advocates of the sapping 
and mining plan, came out with statements, to the effect 
that no such policy had been pursued. These were pub- 
lished in the Missionary Herald. When I saw this, I ad- 
dressed three letters to Dr. Anderson, the secretary, in 
which I went over the whole matter ; and in a few years 
afterward, when another attempt was made, with the knowl- 
edge of the secretaries, to do me injustice, I made an appeal 
to the Board, followed by a memorial, which I presented, 
and had the matter, as to the main points, set right. 

But enough ! poor human nature, and that even in 
men, whom we may hope have some good thing in them ! 
To the three published Letters, Appeal, and Memorial, I 


J. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


3°3 


refer those who may wish more fully to understand the 
subject. J. D. P. 

There was one scrutinizing observer, on whom every 
consideration combined to produce an impartial judgment, 
who could not fail to notice that Mr. P. brought a weight 
of character with him to the work which no young man 
could have done. His character was formed, his reputa- 
tion established, before he entered that part of his Master’s 
field. He was welcomed on board our ships of war, three 
of which visited the harbor of Beyroot that summer, not 
with a patronizing kindness, but as one esteemed- and 
respected. The officers and men, with whom he became 
acquainted at Norfolk and in the Mediterranean, brought 
up a good report. Surprise, that he seemed to need no 
introduction, being intimated, was met by the reply, that 
“ they had known him long; he had baptized some of their 
children ; the wife of Com. Elliot was a member of the 
Norfolk Church, as likewise the wife of Captain Nicholson, 
and he had baptized some in their families ; he was a man 
of sterling worth — no mistake about him /” 

His generosity, in responding to the calls for help to the 
needy, gained the good-will of the people, and he was in 
many instances applied to for relief, in cases of perplexity, 
where the resident missionaries did not feel authorized to 
use the funds of the mission. It did not take long for the 
community to find out that he was a man who, without 
show and bustle, could accomplish much. He had a 
talent for planning and managing, which eminently fitted 
him for usefulness in any mission. His experience of men 
and things would have been invaluable. A bold, consistent 
course would have been persevered in, but no rash or 
foolish project would have emanated from him. 

That he would have acquired the language, no one ac- 


3°4 


MEMOIR OF 


quainted with his habits of study can doubt. Said a young 
Arab, who had been taught by the missionaries, and whom 
he employed to read with him, “ Mr. Paxton, he study 
much — he reads and reads — he keep on reading — he never 
gets tired — I get tired and want to go away — but he wants 
to read more — I never saw a man could study so hard /” 
Good old Tannoos El Hadad on being asked if he thought 
Mr. P. would ever master the language, replied, “ It will 
be a wonder if he does not / Mr. B. study much — Mr. S. 
study very much — but Mr. P., he study all the time, he 
never stop.” 

The climate was wonderfully adapted to his constitution. 
The heat which prostrated others seemed to invigorate his 
system, and he enjoyed uniform health while in the country, 
and had a better prospect of long life than many others. 
As it was, he outlived most of the laborers then in the field, 
and had the satisfaction of observing that the mode of 
operating he had approved and pointed out, was gradually 
fallen into, and rejoiced in the success which has of late 
years attended those missions. Although no credit may 
have been given him for his knowledge, efforts, or good 
intentions, his influence in modifying and moulding sub- 
sequent operations was felt in a greater or less degree. 

What greater good would have resulted to that mission, 
by a prolonged residence among the changes and revolu- 
tions that took place in that region, the light of eternity 
alone can reveal. 

12 th February , 1839. — On arriving at Shelbyville, Mr. 
P. soon found a pleasant boarding-place for his family and 
passed on to Versailles to spend the Sabbath. Rev. N. 
Hall was assisting Rev. W. W. Hill, the young pastor of 
the Shelbyville Church, in a ‘ * sacramental meeting.” 
Much interest was manifested, and the meeting protracted. 
Returning to S. on Monday, hjs help was solicited, and he 


y. D. PAXTON, D.D . 


3°5 

engaged with his accustomed energy in the work, preach- 
ing nine times that week, beside laboring in other ways. 
It was a time to be remembered, and many were added to 
the church. Here he renewed his acquaintance with 
friends, and the ministers Shannon and Proctor, from 
“ Old Virginia,” and was invited by an elder to visit the 
Mulberry Church and preach, that church having been 
vacant most of the time since the death of Rev. A. Came- 
ron, the founder of several Presbyterian churches in that 
section of country. He consented to supply them for a 
time, and removed his family to the neighborhood, and in 
the month of June visited his widowed mother. A regular 
call from the congregation was tendered him in August, 
which he accepted, and the installation took place. 

It was a matter of surprise and astonishment to some, 
that one who had “traveled abroad,” and possessed of so 
much varied information, should be willing to settle down 
quietly in a country congregation. The situation was 
strictly rural, the church taking its name from Mulberry 
Creek, which flowed through the neighborhood. The 
house of worship located in the woods, distant from the 
public roads; to reach it, gates must be passed through, 
and, in some instances, bars laid down. The building an 
ancient log-house, clapboarded, with a door on the north 
and south sides. On the east was a stone chimney, with 
its broad fire-place, capable of holding several stout logs 
and any quantity of brush and kindlings. Two pillars 
near the middle of the house helped to support the roof. 
The walls were plastered, but the curved ceiling was over- 
laid with boards. Opposite the fire-place was the pulpit, a 
closely boxed-up affair, accessible on two sides by four or 
five stairs. Back of the pulpit were two windows, some- 
what smaller than those in the other parts of the house. 
The pulpit seemed, indeed, to be a private room for the 

26* 


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MEMOIR OF 


minister’s accommodation, shutting him out of sight, until 
he mounted the rostrum to commence the service. Let no 
one censure the judgment or the taste of the constructors 
of this and cotemporary buildings. In the days when 
leggins and saddle-bags were an indispensable part of a 
preacher’s accouterments, was not this arrangement more 
suitable than the showy platforms of modern days, where 
the speaker may parade his polished boots and nicely- 
fitted clothes to the gaze of the audience ? 

The seats were rude benches, with a strip of board ap- 
pended high up, as a support to the backs of those tall 
enough to reach them ; a number of split-bottomed chairs, 
marked with the initials of the owners, were scattered 
around the fire-place, or in any vacant space, as suited the 
convenience of the aged occupants. Not a cushion was to 
be found in pulpit or seat, not a curtain or blind shut out 
the light of day. And yet in this building had assemblies 
of attentive worshipers listened to discourses of two or more 
hours’ length. An argument on some doctrinal subject was 
to them an intellectual feast, and the pure gospel of Christ 
was the life of their souls. 

For a few years previous there had been a falling off in the 
attendance, owing chiefly to the irregularity in procuring 
supplies for the pulpit. Some of the families attended the 
church in town. A few miles off was a Methodist chapel, 
more easy of access, being on a public road, to which, 
once a month, crowds of people resorted. In comparison, 
the audience at Mulberry appeared insignificant, and the 
opinion was openly expressed that it was useless for the 
Presbyterians to attempt to gather a congregation at the 
old place. But here were some of the Venable, Morton, 
Graham, Hanna, Lyle, and Glass families, descendants of 
those who have honorable mention in the annals of the 
Presbyterian Church. These, with others of like faith, 


y. D. PAXTON , ; D.D. 


3 ° 7 

gathered from Sabbath to Sabbath to the house of worship, 
and in a short time the regular attendants formed a congre- 
gation respectable in size and growing in numbers. Most 
of the people came on horseback, and tied their horses by 
the bridle to the limbs of the beech-trees. But one car- 
riage was owned in the congregation, but that was of the 
right sort ; it had brought the family out from Virginia, 
and could be drawn to church through mud and rain. At 
a communion season in the autumn of 1841, Rev. Kennedy 
and Lynn assisting, the house could not contain half of 
the people collected on Sabbath morning ; while the ser- 
vices were being conducted in the house, Mr. P. went out 
and preached in the grove. 

Without ostentation he commenced his duties, endeavor- 
ing to instruct and benefit the people of his charge. It 
was evident that it had been no intention of his to seek 
a retired corner of the vineyard, where he could pass his 
declining years in comparative ease, and indulge in intel- 
lectual pursuits. His labors were varied and abundant. In 
addition to two sermons on the Sabbath, and one or two 
during the week, at private houses within the bounds of his 
congregation, he had solicitations from various quarters to 
lecture on Palestine, and to assist other pastors in times of 
revival and protracted meetings. 

Mr. P. possessed, at this period, a buoyancy of spirit 
which enabled him, “ in times of awakening,” to enter into 
the work with all the ardor of youth, rendering him a 
pleasant coadjutor with his younger brethren. He would 
preach with untiring zeal and energy as long as there were 
persons anxious to hear, seldom giving evidence of exhaus- 
tion in those efforts. As an instance, in August, 1842, a 
revival 'took place in the Olivet Church, the late David T. 
Stuart, pastor. Rev. N. Hall assisted for some days, but 
became so hoarse that he could not preach. The people 


3°8 


MEMOIR OF 


of God were aroused to their duty, a number were anxious, 
some perplexed on the mode of baptism, and others halt- 
ing between two opinions ; the call for instructive, earnest 
preaching was great. The request, “ Come over and help 
us,” met with a prompt compliance. He joined his efforts 
with those of his brethren, preaching eleven days in suc- 
cession — twice for three days and once three times in one 
day. On this occasion he preached twice to the colored 
people, and also the funeral of Mr. Hitchcock, a pious 
young man from New England, who was seized with fever 
while attending the meeting, and died in a few days. 
These services were held at a stand in the open air through 
the day. 

The public mind was much excited on Campbellism. 
The followers of Alexander Campbell were active in spread- 
ing their tenets, and zealous in proselyting from other 
denominations. Discussions and public debates were com- 
mon. Before the famous debate of Campbell and Rice, in 
which it was conceded the latter gained the laurel, numerous 
advocates went about the country, holding meetings in 
churches and school-houses, attacking the opinions of the 
leading denominations of Christians, and boldly challenging 
them to refute their statements and assertions. It was not 
uncommon for messengers to come from some distance, 
requesting him to go and answer these disputants, or to 
follow with a series of sermons on baptism, or points con- 
nected with it. He generally preferred the latter course, 
judging that most likely to be productive of good. 

Not long after his settlement the old church was repaired, 
and some alterations made. The pulpit was lowered, re- 
modeled, and painted ; new and more comfortable seats 
were made secure in their places; but few, if any, were 
disposed to part with the chimney; the big fire-place was 
retained for the special comfort of the women and children, 


J. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


309 


who clustered around it. A stove, in the opposite part of 
the house, afforded warmth to those of the other sex, with 
the exception of a privileged few, who, by their own con- 
sent, were entitled to the luxury of a blazing wood-fire. 

The family of the pastor had been accommodated in the 
houses of unmarried men, who, one after the other, wished 
to occupy their houses, thus necessitating the frequent re- 
moval of the family from place to place. In 1842, a lot of 
land, containing twenty-five acres, was purchased by the 
church, and a two-story frame house erected for a manse, 
about a mile and a half from the meeting-house. A portion 
of this lot was a part of a dense beech forest, with a tangled 
undergrowth of dogwood and papaw. Circumstances of 
a peculiar nature rendered the removal from the house 
then occupied imperative, and ho vacant house to be 
hired in the neighborhood, the family moved to the ground 
as soon as the frame was raised (May, 1843), living in the 
room designed for the kitchen, and endured the annoy- 
ances attendant on the finishing of the building, and, for 
the most part, providing the meals of the workmen. These 
discomforts were soon forgotten in the years of domestic 
quiet that ensued. 

A commodious and pleasant room being appropriated 
for a study, his library, maps, and papers arranged to suit 
his convenience, he here, secure from interruption, found 
time for extensive reading and investigation of subjects 
more or less connected with his appropriate work. 

From his first connection with this people, Mr. P. en- 
deavored to interest them in all the benevolent enterprises 
of the day, enjoining it upon them to aid with their sub- 
stance as the Lord had prospered them. Contributions 
were taken up, regularly, for the Boards of the church, not 
waiting for the commissioned agents to give them a call. 
Special efforts were made to enlist their sympathies in the 


3 xo 


MEMOIR OF 


cause of foreign and domestic missions; the concert of 
prayer for these objects was observed on the first Sabbath 
of every month, directly following the morning service. 
Information from the mission-stations was carefully gathered 
up during the month, and communicated at these concerts ; 
progress reported, or movements hostile to the cause 
noticed, thus preparing them to act intelligently in the 
great work of evangelizing the world. He aimed to have 
them give from principle, and labored hard to induce them 
to adopt some system of giving, laying down the Scripture 
rule with great earnestness. Circulars and appeals from 
the Boards were faithfully read from the pulpit. The cir- 
culation of religious newspapers and magazines encouraged, 
and a copy of the pamphlet, “Systematic Benevolence,” 
distributed, at his own expense, in every family of his 
charge. 

Nor were these efforts useless. His people came up to 
the work, and it was not long before they acquired a repu- 
tation for liberality above the surrounding churches. The 
Board of Church Extension was not then in existence, and 
agents collecting funds for building churches in the new 
towns and villages in the Great West were not slow in 
visiting the locality. A common remark made by them 
was, that they had been asked in other places if they had 
called on the Mulberry people, and advised to do so, as 
they were interested in such things, and gave “right 
smart.” 

It has been asked, why one so well convinced of the 
evil of slavery, who had twice emancipated slaves, should 
have returned and settled in a slave State. He was averse 
< to a cold climate, and would have preferred a more South- 
ern clime than that of Kentucky. His relations and the 
great body of his acquaintances were in the South ; the 
gospel was to be preached in the slave as well as the free 


y. D. PAX TOM ; D.D. 


3 1 1 

States, and as the Great Head of the church had not with- 
held his blessing from the ministrations of his servants, 
they ought not to abandon the country. He considered 
it an outrage upon the rights of citizens that the slave- 
holders should assert a claim to occupy the Southern 
country with their slaves, to the exclusion of all those to 
whom the system was repugnant. 

Besides, the resolutions passed in the Synod of Kentucky, 
in 1834, and the discussions which had taken place in his 
absence, indicated that there was an influential body of 
Christian men in the community who were in favor of the 
abolishment of slavery; and some were sanguine that a sys* 
tem of gradual emancipation would be acquiesced in by the 
people of the State at no distant period. He did not intend 
to become an agitator, or needlessly thrust his opinions on 
that subject upon others. Those opinions were well known ; 
his letters had been published in their own State, and his 
consistency, in carrying out those views practically, in the 
liberating of slaves under his control, was patent to all 
men. He hired slave labor because there was no other to 
be had; but when the services of white or free colored 
persons could be obtained, he availed himself of these in 
preference. 

An item belonging to an earlier date may be here in- 
serted. Said a gentleman, “Mr. Paxton, how did you 
ever get your ladies to consent to part with their servants? 
I can’t prevail on those in my family to hear a word about 
it; they set their faces decidedly against it.” He answered 
that he had had no difficulty; they talked the matter over 
and were of the same mind ; and to the honor of those 
Southern ladies, let it be recorded that they cheerfully re- 
linquished the services of valuable servants, and engaged 
heartily in efforts to instruct them and qualify them for 
freedom. 


3 12 


MEMOIR OF 


Times of refreshing were enjoyed during this pastorate. 
In March, 1842, assisted by Rev. W. L. Breckenridge and 
Allen, services were protracted for ten days, and eighteen 
or twenty added to the church. Dr. Chester preached 
the closing sermon. 

In October, 1845, R ev - D av kl Todd remained in the 
neighborhood during the month. The spirit of the Lord 
was poured out upon the people, and twenty-two were 
added to their number, while some converts connected 
themselves with other churches. 

In accordance with the wishes of the Session, from the 
first of his connection with the Mulberry Church, Mr. P. 
appointed meetings for the especial benefit of the colored 
people. As a general thing, these were well attended, and 
his visits to the sick received with thankfulness. It must 
be stated, however, that there was an unwillingness at that 
time to receive instruction from the white population, 
either in the family or at the church. At the i ‘ big meet- 
ings” large numbers would congregate, but only a small 
number could be admitted to the house. 

Past the meridian of life, — ranked by some among the 
old men, — he exhibited an activity of body and power of 
endurance that is noticeable. A swarm of bees lighting on 
a tall maple in the yard, he climbed the tree about twenty- 
five or thirty feet, taking up the end of a line to which his 
saw had been attached. Drawing up the saw, he severed 
the limb from the tree, lowered it with the bees, and then 
slipping down from the tree, hived the swarm. His visits 
to his people were made on horseback, as were his jour- 
neys to Presbytery and Synod. 

Rev. Mr. V., in going the rounds among his friends, 
called at the manse. After som£ conversation, he said, 
“So, they say, Father Paxton goes in for all the new 
notions — the melodeons and choirs, and soon!” Mr. P. 


y. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


3*3 


raised his head, as if doubtful of the import of the asser- 
tion. His daughter Mary promptly replied, “ Yes, Mr. V., 
pa never grows old ; he is always one of us, and I hope he 
always will be !” And it was just so. Firm and unyielding 
in all that pertained to fundamental principles in morals 
and religion, he could adapt himself to the different phases 
of society into which he was thrown, and, borne along on 
the current of time, could lay hold of measures and appli- 
ances for doing good in harmony with actual surroundings. 

While absent at Synod his name was added to the list of 
D.D.’s in the church. Some days after, Rev. J). Todd 
was dining with us, and asked, in his lively way, “How he 
was bearing the honors of the doctorate?” Perceiving 
that his question was not understood by those at the table, 
he threw himself back in his chair, and, addressing Mrs. P., 
said, “Is it possible he has not told you? Ha! ha! he 
is such a modest man ! Well, I see I must be the bearer of 
the news that the dignitaries of Centre College have placed 
him among the doctors of divinity.” The reply being 
made that “perhaps he did not attach much value to such 
honors,” the doctor, with rather a comical expression of 
countenance, remarked, “I had before this one D. for dis- 
tinction /* but if there is any honor or advantage to be de- 
rived from such an appendage to my name, I am certainly 
obliged to my brethren for their kindness in conferring it 
upon me ; I value it as an expression of their confidence 
and esteem ; but you surely did not expect me to do as 
they say Dr. H., of M., did, when accosted as Mister H., 
— raise his hand and lift his hat with ‘ Doctor H., if you 
please !* ” With a hearty laugh the subject was dismissed. 


* From the fact that there were four persons who bore the name of 
John Paxton, he had inserted the fourth letter of the alphabet in his 
signature. 


27 


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MEMOIR OF 


To increase the pleasures of home, he constructed a boat 
with his own hands, for his daughters to paddle about the 
pond, which afforded fine exercise, as well as amusement. 
At other times he might be seen making sleds and wagons 
for his little sons, and entertaining them with accounts of 
what he did in his boyish days. How he used to get a 
board and heat it until it would turn up at one end, and 
then slide down hill on it. But nothing that he could re- 
late — not even that he had swam over Jordan, or stood on 
the top of the great Pyramid — excited the wonder and 
astonishment of the juveniles as that, when a boy, he used 
to catch eels and carefully dress their skins to tie up his 
long hair with ; or that he never tasted molasses until he 
was twenty years old. 

In the course of years changes were occurring in the 
neighborhood that concurred to extend his influence more 
and more beyond his own church. Death and emigration 
had removed many of the prominent members of the Meth- 
odist Society. Camp-meetings were given up, preaching at 
the Brick Chapel less frequent, until the house fell almost 
into disuse, occupied only occasionally by the blacks. The 
knowledge that service was seldom omitted at Mulberry 
led members of other churches to attend when not sup- 
plied by their own ministers. Receiving a cordial wel- 
come, they felt free to send for the pastor in times of sick- 
ness and bereavement, and in this way he became pretty 
generally known in the district. 

It would be an oversight to omit a prominent feature of 
the Mulberry congregation. Dr. P. encouraged the bring- 
ing of young children to the house of God. They were 
brought early by their parents, and trained to behave well 
when there ; and to the praise of the little ones be it said, 
that worship was seldom disturbed by their presence. 

As years rolled on, not a few of the fathers had been 


y. D. PAXTON , ; P.D. 


3 T 5 


followed to the grave, and scarce a household that had 
not been filled with sorrow for the removal of loved ones 
by death. From the extensive “deadening” of the beech 
woods, or some hidden cause, there was much sickness and 
great mortality among the people. On one of these mourn- 
ful occasions, a very aged lady, who had spent her youth 
in Western Virginia, remarked to me, “How familiar the 
young people are with death now ! It was not so when I 
was a girl. The first corpse I ever looked upon was one of 
my own children.” To the suggestion, that probably there 
were but few people around her, she replied, “ Oh, no ! it 
was thickly settled there.” 

Death entered the manse also, taking first a bud of 
promise, the bright little Willie, and then the quiet, self- 
sacrificing, affectionate Matilda, who, through grace, could 
say, “To be with Christ is far better.” 

In the winter of 1854 the old house of worship was 
vacated for a new brick church, a few rods distant, which 
had been erected and furnished in a style very creditable 
to the congregation. 

In the spring the Rev. T. P. Hunt came on an agency 
to Kentucky, and in his route made a visit to his “Old 
Virginia friends” at Mulberry. Appointments for preach- 
ing were made from day to day, the meetings were well 
attended, and it was soon manifest that God was ready to 
bless the efforts of his servants. A precious season of 
revival was experienced, many of the youth in the church 
received into full fellowship, and much good feeling pre- 
vailed. 

It was common for brethren in the ministry, and other 
friends who visited the manse, and the number was few 
who were not willing to go a little out of their way to call 
on their old friend, in what President Ruffner aptly termed 
his Rural Retreat, to congratulate him on his agreeable and 


3 l6 


MEMOIR 01 


useful position, and to express the hope that he would be 
permitted to pass his remaining days not subject to further 
removals or change. Mr. Hunt, in bidding farewell to 
relatives and friends, solemnly enjoined it upon them “to 
see to it that they smooth the passage of this servant of 
God to the tomb.” But, alas! while the ties which bind 
pastor and people had been strengthening from year to 
year, there was an evil influence at work destined to sunder 
them all. 

The Demon of Slavery spread a baleful shadow over the 
future. Emancipation conventions were over; the new 
constitution gave no facilities, but rather threw obstacles in 
the way of manumission ; a reaction took place, and sus- 
picions and distrust usurped the place of confidence and 
love. A few remained steadfast to their principles and gave 
freedom to their slaves, but the majority settled down in 
the opinion that the time had not come. 

Some cases of the workings of this “benign and patri- 
archal institution,” that transpired under his notice, had 
not been adapted to remove his convictions of the great 
wrong in perpetuating the system. A close observer 
of passing events, Dr. P. saw with pain this change in 
public sentiment, and many an anxious thought was given 
to the subject. He discerned an infatuation creeping over 
the Southern mind, fostered by leaders in the church, which 
augured evil to the country, and which no remonstrance or 
protest could arrest. His hopes that the evil and wrong 
would be gradually and peacefully abandoned, were all 
crushed. That heavy judgments were impending he had 
no doubt, and he felt a reluctance to leaving his family, 
in case of his decease, to meet the crisis in a slave State. 
While revolving these things in his mind, a friend informed 
him that there were individuals in the church that were 
dissatisfied, and were endeavoring to excite prejudice 


y. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


3 1 7 

against him. The writer cherishes the belief that there 
were but few who desired his removal. 

He decided at once to resign his charge, without giving 
time for the agitators to perplex and divide the church, 
and, in January, 1855, visited Princeton, Ind., and spent 
the month with the O. S. P. Church, then vacant, preach- 
ing and giving lectures. Returning, he filled up the 
month of March in active service, holding thirteen meet- 
ings, and, in April, requested the church to unite with him 
in applying to the Presbytery for a dissolution of the pas- 
toral relation. On stating to the Presbytery that his mind 
was clear as to his duty of leaving, the bond was severed, 
and he was dismissed from the Louisville to join the Vin- 
cennes Presbytery. He delivered his last discourse in the 
Mulberry Church, April 8th, from II. Cor. xiii. n. 
Through the kind assistance of some families, who wished 
it to be distinctly understood that they had no sympathy 
in the movement, the removal of the family was speedily 
accomplished. 


27 


* 


MEMOIR OF 


CHAPTER X. 


Removal to Indiana — Five Years in Princeton, Indiana — Tour to Min- 
nesota and Kansas — Three Years in Kansas — Return to Princeton — 
Last Years of Labor — Decline and Death. 

ERY pleasant were the salutations received from the 



V people of Princeton, and the duties of the pastor 
were entered upon with a hopeful prospect. Pursuing sub- 
stantially the same plan of instruction adopted at Mulberry, 
there was little to interrupt the monotony of the labor in 
the five years’ connection with this church. Additions 
were made, but letters of dismission to others emigrating 
West counterbalanced the gain. He declined the overtures 
made for his installation, on the ground that the binding 
obligations of those solemn proceedings had, to a great 
degree, come to be regarded as resting on the ministers 
alone. It was expected that the minister would go on in 
the faithful discharge of his duty whether the people came 
up to their obligations or not. 

The most important event which transpired during his 
connection with this people, was the building of a new 
church. Several attempts had been made to obtain sub- 
scriptions, but had failed. The Hon. Judge Hall informed 
Dr. P. that many were of opinion that if he would undertake 
to raise the amount required he would succeed, and proposed 
to bear him company in the work. The doctor assenting, 
they commenced canvassing for the object, and obtained a 
sum which, with a few hundreds from the C. E. Board, 
was sufficient to erect a neat brick edifice, which is an 


J. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


3 J 9 


ornament to the town, and of dimensions adapted to the 
wants of the congregation. 

By reference to the diary of 1859, we find that Dr. P. 
supplied his pulpit twice on Sabbath and conducted the 
Wednesday prayer-meeting with great regularity through 
the year. The exceptions were owing to absence from 
home, and a few cases in which he had the assistance of 
other ministers. In February, private business called him 
to Cincinnati and Louisville. At the latter place he deliv- 
ered three discourses, just thirty years from the time he 
preached, in that city, his first sermon in Kentucky. 
Afterward, at Vincennes, the Presbytery at Washington, 
and at Sullivan, Indiana, he was absent in the work of his 
Master. In May we find him conducting Sabbath services 
in Newton, Illinois, while on a visit to his oldest daughter ; 
the weeks following at Princeton, and on the 29th at the 
General Assembly, then in session at Indianapolis. Chills 
and intermittent fevers, which prevailed more or less every 
year, and from which no member of his family was entirely 
exempt, began to excite apprehension that the health of 
individuals would be permanently injured without a change 
of climate. This induced him to make a tour of inspec- 
tion to the Northwest, as well as to look after some pecu- 
niary interests in that locality, and therefore we find him, 
on the 12th of June, at St. Paul, Minnesota, after a de- 
lightful tour across the country, via Chicago, where he 
found an opportunity “to publish the glad tidings.” After 
visiting some of the principal towns in Minnesota, and 
hearing so much said of the salubrity of the atmosphere, 
he was much inclined to remove his family to that State. 
Its beautiful country, silvery lakes, sparkling waters, and 
fine fish were duly appreciated, and nothing but his preju- 
dice against a northern winter deterred him from making 
it his future abode. 


3 2 ° 


MEMOIR OF 


Coming down the Mississippi, he crossed Illinois, preach- 
ing at Altona, and on the 26th resumed his accustomed 
duties at Princeton. In part to try the effect of a change 
of climate, he accompanied his daughter Martha to Maine, 
leaving home in the middle of July, and traveling via 
Niagara and the lakes. After an absence of three months, 
we find him performing his weekly routine at Princeton. 
November 20th he records, “Sick — no preaching.” In 
December we learn that he held eleven services with his 
people in the course of that month, administering the 
Lord’s Supper and preaching four days in succession with- 
out assistance. The minutes of the Assembly for i860 
reported his name with the word “infirm” attached to it 
— by whose authority is not known ; with what propriety 
those who glance over the above synopsis can judge. 

During the winter of i860 Dr. P. performed his quota of 
pastoral service. Avowing his intention of leaving the 
town, he requested the church to seek another pastor, and 
in the latter part of March took the cars for the West. At 
St. Joseph, Mo., he had the pleasure of renewing his ac- 
quaintance with families he had known in Kentucky, and 
joined a party who were about to visit the Iowa mission of 
the Presbyterian Board. He was hospitably received at 
the station, and by the Christian people of Kansas, and in 
a brief survey of the northeastern part of the State satisfied 
himself that there were openings for the preaching of the 
gospel for any one who had a heart for the work. His 
notes of travel resemble those of a domestic missionary. 
“Preached at Highland twice; at Atchison twice; bap- 
tized a child; administered the Lord’s Supper ; ordained 
a deacon ; installed an elder ; preached a funeral ; baptized 
three children, etc.” 

Rev. G. S. Rice having resigned his connection with 
Highland University, the trustees offered the situation to 


J. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


3 21 


Dr. P., requesting him to take the school under his charge 
for the summer. This he consented to do, and returning 
to Indiana made preparations for removal. 

With mingled emotions of regret and hope, farewells 
were exchanged — regret at parting from kind friends and 
a pleasant residence, and hope that the change would prove 
beneficial to the health of the family. 

Those three years in Kansas, could we enter into de- 
tails, would furnish a chapter of interesting reminiscences. 
Hopes concerning the influence of climate were realized, 
the younger portion of the family receiving much benefit 
from the change. 

The chartered University of Highland was in its infancy. 
A commodious brick building furnished ample accommoda- 
tion for school, recitation, and apparatus rooms, a chapel, 
and apartments for the family of the principal. The chapel 
was completed soon after our arrival. A good high school, 
for youth of both sexes, had been in operation, and a pri- 
mary department connected with it. Such a school Dr. P. 
superintended for the greater part of two years, giving in- 
struction personally to a few young men in the advanced 
studies. This was all that was called for at that stage of 
affairs; the school met the wants of the community, and 
it is believed, suffered no detriment under his supervision. 

The Highland church becoming vacant, he was requested 
to take charge of it. In this new field he showed as much 
activity in promoting the interests of religion as the gen- 
erality of young men, and could endure as much fatigue in 
walking, riding, and preaching as any one — making efforts 
to reach places that did not enjoy the stated means of grace. 
Between twenty and thirty Indians from the mission-school 
attended worship at the chapel on the Sabbath, and formed 
a part of the congregation to whom he ministered. 

During this period the storm which had been gathering 


3 22 


MEMOIR OF 


burst upon the country, and the horrors of war commenced. 
Efforts had been made to purchase a lot on which to build 
a habitation for his family, but from different causes had all 
failed. As no suitable house could be obtained, and the 
difficulties attendant on building increased, the state of the 
country becoming more unsettled, combined with an attack 
of prostrating sickness, to point out a return to the home 
in Princeton, which had remained unsold. Accordingly, 
in the spring of 1863, Dr. P. returned with his family, 
their hearts saddened by the loss of the beloved Eliza, who 
had preceded them a few months, there to find her grave. 

This year, afflictions pressed hard upon this man of God. 
In addition to the anxieties and distress occasioned by the 
knowledge that near kindred and dear friends were in the 
very seat of the war, his parental feelings were again sorely 
tried in the bereavement of another daughter. Mary, the 
joyous little being he had adopted in a far-off land, whose 
mind he had helped to train, whose affections he had cher- 
ished, and who, matured by grievous disappointments and 
sorrows, had grown to be a companion and counselor, 
was removed to that home “where the wicked cease from 
troubling, and where the weary are at rest.” Subse- 
quently, a painful tumor on his back confined him to the 
house for two months. As soon as relief was obtained, he 
engaged in the great work of his life, and the amount of 
ministerial service performed, chiefly within the bounds of 
the Presbytery of Vincennes, was considerable. 

In June of 1864, the Rev. J. H. Aughey having declined 
remaining longer with the Princeton church, Dr. P. was 
again invited to take the charge. He consented, with the 
understanding that the church should make efforts to secure 
the services of a pastor whenever one could be obtained, 
and the church signifying on their part that they would 
be satisfied with whatever portion of labor his advanced 


y. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


3 2 3 


age would admit of. Contrary to the expectations of all, 
he was able to fulfill his appointments with great regularity 
throughout the year. 

In 1865, no efforts had been made to obtain another 
pastor, and the request being again presented, the same 
arrangement was entered into for another year. This 
passed much as the preceding one, with this difference, 
the second service on Sabbath was, in a number of in- 
stances, held at some place in the vicinity, and that assist- 
ance was given at two communion seasons by Revs. Vance 
and Sterrett. 

In June, 1866, Dr. P. entered on his eighth year with 
this people, and the last of his ministerial service. July 5 th, 
it pleased the righteous Governor of the Universe to rend 
another tie that bound him to earth, by transferring to the 
mansions above another much-loved daughter. The words 
of holy truth and comfort from the lips of her “dear old 
father,” fell on the ear of the dying Martha as she passed 
into the world of spirits. This dark dispensation seemed 
doubly severe, from the fact that, but a few months pre- 
vious, certain information had been received of the death 
of his eldest son, who was killed by the falling of his horse, 
near Obies River, Tennessee. “In all this, like one of 
old, he charged not God foolishly,” but sought to alleviate 
the anguish of the stricken ones around him. 

In the autumn he was reported, as at the Synod of Indiana, 
“ feeble, yet erect.” At the close of the sessions, the ladies 
of Vincennes gave a social entertainment to the members 
of Synod. Dr. P. accepted the invitation, and prolonged 
his stay, that he might be present. On reaching home, the 
next day, he was rallied for staying to attend a party. As 
an apology, he said : “I thought that as the ladies were so 
kind as to show their regard for the brethren, by taking so 
much trouble to give them pleasure, the least they could do 


3 2 4 


MEMOIR OF 


in return was to accept. And a nice affair it was ! There 
was much sociability, and the whole passed off finely. 
When supper was announced, I thought I would hold back, 
and not go with the first, — but, no ! that wouldn’t do ; the 
ladies came and took me by the arm and escorted me 
through the rooms, up to the head of the table, and pro- 
vided me with a fine easy chair, and seemed to want in 
every way to do me honor. Indeed, they made me too 
conspicuous, but I couldn’t help myself, I let them have 
their own way, and they were very kind indeed /” Does 
this recital seem puerile? Wait, my friend ! till you arrive 
at fourscore, and you will better know how grateful to the 
aged are such attentions from the young. 

The supplying of the pulpit, through the winter, was an 
exhaustive service, and he frequently urged the necessity 
of procuring some one to take his place. Few knew 
what those efforts cost him. It took nearly the whole week 
to recruit for the Sabbath. But, as one of the elders re- 
marked, when spoken to on the matter, “It did seem 
hard to require it of him, but the doctor spoke with so 
much earnestness, and appeared to enjoy it so much him- 
self, that it did not seem right to deprive him of the 
privilege.” 

He had some assistance through the spring, from young 
preachers visiting the town. Early in June an attack of 
cholera nearly terminated his life. From this he speedily 
recovered, and performed full service through the last of 
the month and throughout July, when he resigned the 
charge, the church having engaged the services of Mr. Van 
Arsdale, a licentiate. 

Released from pastoral labors, Dr. P. had more leisure 
to gladden the family circle with his presence. He was 
occasionally called upon for services, which a licentiate 
could not perform, and cheerfully responded to the calls. 


y. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


325 


In November he preached and administered the sacrament 
for the last time, and gave an address at the Children’s 
Offering. He continued to visit the House of God on 
Sabbaths, until he required the assistance of two persons to 
return home. 

When asked why, with his impaired sight, he pored over 
the papers with so much interest, he would reply in the 
language of another, “ that he read the papers to see how 
God governed the world.” The loss of sight through the 
winter cut him off from reading. This was, in some 
measure, made up to him by others reading aloud ; but it 
was noticed that he expressed no regret at the loss. On 
the contrary, he began to speak of it as a good Providence 
that had shut him up to his own reflections and communion 
with his Saviour. His mind was vigorous, and a sweet 
peace and contentment filled his soul. He was too feeble 
to be present at the meeting of the Presbytery held in 
Princeton in the spring, but he stated to some of the mem- 
bers, who called upon him at his home, that he had been 
a praying man for more than sixty years, but that he had 
more satisfaction in prayer then than he ever had before. 

Memory loves to linger round those few months of enjoy- 
ment vouchsafed to this servant of God. At one time in 
particular the emotions of his soul could not be suppressed ; 
he must share the blessing with another, and he spoke out 
of a full heart, “ My dear ! I must tell you how happy I am ! 
you have no idea of the comfort and enjoyment I have ex- 
perienced of late ! I want you to know it / As my mind 
goes back and recalls the events of my life, the goodness 
and mercy of God is so manifest, my thoughts flow out so 
freely in ejaculatory prayer, He is so near to me, I have 
such communion with Him, such joy and satisfaction, that 
it exceeds all that I have ever felt before.” Thus, as he 
drew near the world of light, its bright rays were seen gild- 

28 


MEMOIR OF 


326 

ing the tops of those dark mountains, many of them in the 
far distant background, over which he had passed in the 
journey of life. 

Habituated to wait on himself, it was a source of regret 
that he was dependent on others to such an extent ; and he 
frequently expressed gratitude for little attentions, closing 
with what he intended as a consolatory consideration, that 
we would not be troubled long. Such prominence did this 
idea, so apt to intrude into the aged breast, assume, that 
he was entreated not to allow his mind for a moment to 
suppose that any of his loved ones would ever consider it a 
trouble to minister to his wants. 

This season of freedom from pain, and comparative ease, 
led his friends to hope that he would gain his release with- 
out passing through much suffering. But He whose 
thoughts are not as our thoughts, saw fit, in dissolving “ the 
earthly house,” to try the faith and patience of his servant, 
by prolonging the process through pains and distress before 
admitting him to that “ house not made with hands eternal 
in the heavens.” In addition to great weakness, a faint- 
ness would come over him, and he would become uncon- 
scious. On recovering, he would remark on the probability 
of his being removed in that way, expressing his entire 
willingness to go. He frequently referred to the scriptural 
representations of old age, how true to the life, and how 
they were exemplified in his own person. At other times 
a chilliness would pass over him, requiring active measures 
to restore warmth. He remarked, that we need not take 
much trouble to warm him, he had no wish to prolong the 
case, but he hoped he should be willing to wait God’s time, 
He knew what was best. 

His appetite for food failed him months before his de- 
cease. He was of the opinion that the stomach had lost 
its digestive power, and was averse to taking medicine ; 


J. D . PAXTON, D.D. 


327 


yet when advised by his physicians, Drs. H. and J. Patten, 
in whose skill he long had reposed confidence, he would 
try the remedy prescribed. He had no expectation of re- 
covering his strength, but spoke calmly of his departure, 
which he apprehended might be very sudden. 

His desire to hear the daily news, both foreign and do- 
mestic, continued until he was so far prostrated as to be 
unable to listen to the reading of it. His memory was 
remarkably tenacious of passing events. He remembered 
things that occurred from week to week and from day to 
day with surprising accuracy. Each member of the family 
read to him, more or less, every day. Those that read 
from the Bible had each a different book. His little 
grandson, who had made haste to learn, that he might 
read to grandpa, was reading the Old Testament in 
course ; his wife read the Epistles, and others some other 
parts. While the readers were getting the book and find- 
ing the place, he would generally say, “ It is such a chap- 
ter,” or “You read such a one last,” — naming it. 

In August he was confined to his bed ; his distress in the 
region of the stomach increased, but so great was his forti- 
tude and resignation that none were aware of what he was 
enduring. Kind friends who dropped in, seeing him lie so 
passive, would remark that it was a comforting circum- 
stance that he was so free from pain ; and it was not until 
this had been repeated several times in his hearing that he 
told me that he was sorry to undeceive me ; that it was all 
a mistake — we could have no idea of the agonies he at 
times experienced ! The grief occasioned by this dis- 
closure led to more particular inquiries, and he stated that 
sometimes his whole body seemed filled with pain ; at 
others the pain was confined to his head or his limbs, but 
that there was a constant uneasiness about the stomach; 
that he had very little relief in sleep by day or night, and 


328 


MEMOIR OF 


that he had to struggle against wishing to be delivered 
from this state. For his comfort, I reminded him of the 
many petitions he had offered in his long life for grace to 
support him in the trying hour that were yet to be an- 
swered ; they were all registered, and God would be faith- 
ful to his promises. He replied, “Yes, I can trust Him to 
order the whole matter.” 

One day he had been lying very still for more than an 
hour ; all was hushed in the house ; I hoped he was resting 
in sleep; so gently did he breathe that the act was almost 
imperceptible. He suddenly broke the silence, saying, in 
a low voice, “My dear, are you here?” “Yes, I am sit- 
ting by you. Do you wish anything?” “ I only wanted 
to make a remark.” “What is it?” “Have you ever 
thought why God should call his people (those who know 
him, put their trust in him, and try to serve him) to pass 
through so many trials — so much bodily suffering ? I have 
thought this — that going fresh from a state of suffering into 
the other world, they would realize much more the great- 
ness of their deliverance from endless torment ; and it 
would have a tendency to give a value to Christ’s sufferings 
which perhaps they could not appreciate in any other way. 
It may be that in this manner, more than in any other, we 
are fitted and prepared to enter on that spiritual existence 
in the other world. The apostle alludes to this — speaks of 
believers as the mystical body of Christ, and their filling 
up the measure of suffering, etc.” He dilated on these 
points until weakness obliged him to desist. No instance 
can be recalled of his mind’s appearing to be in a listless, 
dreamy state. 

In September, information concerning the ordination of 
his son-in-law, J. C. McElroy, excited much interest, and 
brought vividly to remembrance his own induction into the 
sacred office. His youngest and only surviving daughter 
has furnished the following reminiscence : 


y. D. PAXTON y D.D. 


329 


“ I had given him his cup of tea^ and he had lain down, 
and I had fixed his pillow and asked if I could do anything 
more for him. ‘No,’ said he, ‘nothing more, thank you.’ 
I bent down and gave him a kiss, saying, ‘ Pa, how can I 
give you up? You have been such a good father.’ ‘No ! 
no! very imperfect!’ The thought seemed to overcome 
him ; clasping his hands and raising his eyes heavenward 
he engaged in prayer a few minutes; he then said, — he was 
so weak he could hardly speak, and his voice was low and 
tremulous, — ‘ No, Fannie ! I am not good. I have had 
many wicked thoughts, and inclined to have my own way 
too much — I did not look at the hand of God in matters 
that I should.’ After awhile I asked him how old he was 
when he was licensed, and he said, ‘Twenty-eight years, 
and thirty when ordained.’ He then said, ‘That reminds 
me of a compliment which I received from Mr. Lyle after 
my trial sermon, that I was not a little proud of. He said, 
“It was as clear as a limestone brook, and as pungent a£ 
pepper.” I was struck with the expression, and always re- 
membered it. I could not help feeling a little proud of the 
compliment, as it came from him.’ Then he spoke of 
Brown and Baxter ; they were on the stage at the same 
time, and complimented him also. Resting awhile, he 
continued, ‘ Well, if that was a good sermon, I have 
preached many a poor one since,’ — laughing as he spoke. 

“After this he commenced talking about death, and told 
me he could not live long and I must not murmur. He 
said, ‘ I cannot do anything more now, and I am anxious 
to go. Try and be a good Christian girl, and meet me in 
heaven. Religion is of the first importance — you cannot 
seek it too early. It is the greatest joy I could have, that 
you and your brother should be true Christians. Try and 
work together for the Lord, and be a comfort to your ma.’ 
Then he spoke of the place where we should bury him. 

28* 


MEMOIR OF 


33 ° 

‘ Lay me beside my daughters ; and I want just a plain 
stone, like the others,* with this on it — “ Rev. John D. 
Paxton, D.D., in the 85th year of his age, and the 57th of 
his ministry. ’ ’ That will explain all ; but I have spoken to 
your ma about it before.’ ” 

Slowly, but surely, did The insidious decay of old age 
prey from day to day upon that prostrate but beloved form. 
For five or six weeks he was unable to lie on his left side. 
The weariness consequent on his extreme weakness and in- 
ability to change his position became almost intolerable. In 
the effort to make some change he would often faint away, 
and be to all appearance dead. But little could be done 
by those about him but to watch and wait. Portions of 
God’s blessed word were read, as he was able to bear it, 
and ever and anon some word of counsel or of cheer would 
with effort pass from his lips. 

A letter of sympathy from the Vincennes Presbytery was 
read to him. After listening to it, he remarked, “I am 
obliged to the brethren;” and after a short interval added, 
his eyes suffused with tears, “It was very kind in them to 
remember me in that way !” 

He was grateful for the visits of brother ministers who 
called upon him in his confinement, and was cheered by 
their company. The stated visits of Dr. J. McMaster, of 
the Reformed Presbyterian Church, his fellow-townsman, 
with whom he had labored in great harmony, were much 
prized as a means of grace from which he received spiritual 
benefit. The judicious selection of divine truth uttered by 
the familiar voice, was easily apprehended, and with such 
food his soul was nourished and his spirit refreshed. 

Two weeks before his death I asked him if he could recol- 
lect a sermon of his from the text Rev. vii. 1 4. He answered, 
“Oh, yes ! there are two passages which have been running 
in my mind a good deal recently.” To test his mental con- 


J. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


331 


dition, I inquired, “Can you repeat them?” “I suppose 
so;” and he repeated, “These are they which follow the 
Lamb whithersoever he goeth ; these were redeemed from 
among men being the first fruits unto God and the Lamb. 
These are they which came out of great tribulation, and 
have washed their robes and made them white in the blood 

of the Lamb. Therefore are they before the throne ’ * 

He could articulate no more, but made a sign that I should 
read the remainder of the chapter. These were the last 
words of Scripture I heard him repeat. 

The last Sabbath he spent with us he was restless and 
feverish, and, for the first and only time, gave signs of a 
slight derangement of the mental organs. He lost the 
time, and when set right on that point said, “My mind has 
been confused all night ; things are dreadfully mixed up. ’ * 
It was not thought that he would survive many hours. The 
next day he appeared more natural, and his physician 
stated that his pulse was stronger than the day before. 
Early in the week Dr. McMaster called in. He perceived 
that a change had taken place. Dr. P. was scarcely able 
to give any sign of recognition, and his friend doubted 
whether it would be wise to say anything. I thought a 
few words might comfort him. As some of the precious 
promises to dying believers were set before him, and he 
was asked if he could trust to their fulfillment, there was a 
movement signifying assent. He was then feelingly com- 
mended to our covenant-keeping God in prayer. After 
Dr. M. had withdrawn, I took the hand which had been 
extended a little in the farewell exchange. He grasped it, 
saying, with difficulty, a word at a time, “ Dr. McMaster 
excels in appropriate quotations of Scripture in prayer.” 
“Then you were able to follow him in the exercises?” 
“Certainly, but I can’t speak.” 

There was no perceptible change until the following 


332 


MEMOIR OF 


Friday. He had gone through with the morning’s toilette, 
when the Rev. J. Montgomery, who had lately taken the 
pastorate of the Princeton church, called in. This friend 
states that Dr. Paxton was the first minister that he recol- 
lects seeing in the pulpit ; he was then very young, but had 
been carried to church many times before ; this image of 
the doctor which filled his infantile vision he has retained 
through life with great distinctness. It is a noticeable 
coincidence that in the providence of God he should have 
been appointed to lead the last devotions, and take part 
in the obsequies of this aged ambassador. Dr. Paxton 
seemed to wish to give utterance to something, but had 
not the power. When prayer was proposed, he nodded 
assent, and by a familiar motion signified his wish for the 
family to be called in. This done, he folded his hands 
and composed his features for prayer. After the brother 
left he was suffered to repose; and as he appeared to be 
resting, the painful forebodings as to the results of the next 
hour were alleviated by the hope that he might have a ces- 
sation from pain and continue with us a few days more. 
This delusive hope soon vanished. About 12 o’clock it 
was manifest that his hour had come. We had gathered, 
from directions he had given us when on former occasions 
he had thought that death was near, that he wished not to 
be disturbed in his dying moments. His little family, 
therefore, gathered in silence about his bed, and watched 
the last glimmerings of life as he gently sank to rest. At 
half-past one p.m., October 2d, 1868, without a struggle, he 
ceased to breathe. 

His remains were taken to the church on Saturday 
afternoon, where friends were collected to pay their last 
tribute of respect. The Rev. J. Montgomery delivered a 
discourse, peculiarly appropriate to the occasion, from Rev . 
xiv. 13, “And I heard a voice from heaven saying unto 


y. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


333 


me, Write, Blessed are the dead that die in the Lord from 
henceforth ; yea, saith the Spirit, that they may rest from 
their labors; and their works do follow them.” Consid- 
ering — i st. What it is to die in the Lord, and who may be 
said thus to die. 2 d. Wherein their blessedness consists. 
3 d. Why this message is so solemly proclaimed by a voice 
from heaven ; showing, for the consolation of the bereaved 
ones, that as this revered father in Christ had delineated 
in his life the character of a true believer, and had died 
in the Lord, in submission to his will, in dependence on 
Him for life and immortality, and a sincere desire to be 
with Him, there was every assurance that he had entered 
on that blessed rest, and that his works would follow after 
in God’s faithful remembrance of them and in the recom- 
pense of a large reward. 

The Rev. J. McMaster followed with impressive re- 
marks, based on Zech. i. 5, “Your fathers, where are they? 
and the prophets, do they live forever?” — noticing briefly 
the principal events in the life of the deceased, and bear- 
ing honorable testimony to the consistent life and faithful 
service of his venerable brother and fellow-laborer in the 
vineyard of the Lord. 

After singing and prayer, the body was conveyed to 
the cemetery and committed to the grave. Thus, without 
show or useless parade, on a calm, bright afternoon in 
autumn, were these funeral ceremonies performed, in a 
solemn, Christian manner, so consonant to the taste and 
wishes of the departed one. 

Farewell, thou man of God ! partner of my joys and 
sorrows — my earthly prop for more than thirty years ! 
That was an unutterably solemn moment when thou wast 
released from the ties of earth ! With what yearnings did 
the heart long to penetrate the veil which separated us 
mortals from the invisible ! But though it is not for us to 


334 


MEMOIR OF 


say whether a bright convoy of glorified spirits were in 
waiting to convey the emancipated spirit into the presence 
of the Holy One, or whether the Lord of Glory himself, 
the adorable Saviour, greeted him at the end of the dark 
valley, with the welcome, “ Well done, good and faithful 
servant,” of this we are sure, that thy life and thy death 
have demonstrated the truth that “ In keeping thy com- 
mands there is great reward. Verily, there is reward for 
the righteous !” 


J. D. PAXTON ; D.D. 


335 


CHAPTER XI. 


Traits of Character — Published Volumes : Sermons — Essays — 


Habits — Conclusion. 


S the intelligence of the decease of Dr. Paxton was 



ii communicated to distant friends, letters of condo- 
lence and sympathy flowed in upon the bereaved. A few 
extracts will serve to show the estimation in which he was 
held by those who had had opportunity to study his char- 
acter — the spontaneous effusions of their hearts on the re- 
ception of the tidings. His brother-in-law, Rev. J. T. 
Bliss, of Illinois, writes: “Language is too feeble to fully 
express my feelings of sorrow and sympathy for you, my 
friend, in this sore trial, and also for the dear fatherless 
ones, the sharers of their mother's grief. Your and their 
loss is very great. There are few such husbands and 
fathers as he for whom you mourn. Those who have lived 
with him know how great the loss his family has sustained. 
When in his society I ever felt that I was in the presence 
of no ordinary man ; that he was great in goodness, pos- 
sessing so many excellencies of character, which ever 
shone in their native simplicity at home or abroad, but 
more especially in his own family circle, so affectionate, 
kind, and sympathetic in his nature. 

“ His greatness was not confined to his moral and social 
nature. It was seen in a well-cultivated mind, richly 
adorned with practical knowledge. His extensive reading 
and close inspection of books made him really eminent in 
the field of science and letters ; but his knowledge of the 


33 6 


' MEMOIR OF ■ 


Bible and its doctrines was surpassed by few of our most 
learned theologians. I do feel that a great and good man 
is no more on earth; and yet he lives with Jesus, his divine 
Master, in the mansions prepared for all those who love 
him. We cannot doubt his title to a 1 mansion there.’ 
This blessed thought alleviates our sorrows and points our 
thoughts above, where our enduring treasure is, upon the 
enjoyment of which the dear departed one has already en- 
tered, his work all done and well done, his trials and con- 
flicts all over, the weary gone to rest, eternally to rest in 
the dear Saviour’s embrace.” 

His son, J. C. McElroy, wrote : “ My first thought was, 
The Master has called him up higher. He was a leader in 
the armies of the Lord ; he fell sword in hand, and has 
gone to his home of glory to receive the crown of rejoic- 
ing ! What a joyous meeting with those loved ones gone 
before ! What joy must fill the soul as it stands before the 
glorified Saviour, whom he loved so long and served so 
faithfully ! What unspeakable joy must have thrilled his 
weary soul, as for the first time it caught the holy music of 
the heavenly choir ! * Let me die the death of the right- 
eous, and let my last end be like his !’ 

“I have had some very intimate and interesting conver- 
sations with the doctor on portions of his life, and these 
points always struck me as being rather peculiar, viz.: his 
early struggles ; his dependence on God in his many severe 
trials and great sorrows; and his faithful labors for the 
Master. I have never witnessed so much trust in God as 
I have seen in him. 

“ I owe whatever good I may be the means of doing to 
his faithful advice and instruction. I think I should have 
given up tjie ministry if it had not been for him.” 


y. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


337 


“ WlLKESBARRE, PA. 

* * * “Your husband’s life was an eventful one. 

His deep piety, warm, soft heart, sound judgment, and 
unyielding devotion to principle, with his education and 
talents, would not suffer his life to consist of that even 
tenor that bears no other mark but that of a good man, 
useful like the underwarmth and moisture of the earth, 
recognized in the verdure they cause on the surface, as is 
so beautifully manifested in the lives of many who are 
great because they are good. But Brother Paxton had to 
show his greatness in great sacrifices and his goodness in 
great trials, often illustrating that by the grace of God he 
was what he was. 

“ May God bless the widow and orphans of my old 
friend, dearly, and greatly, and deservedly beloved by his 
old friend and yours. 

“T. P. Hunt.” 

The closing paragraph of an obituary notice by E. P. 
Humphrey, D.D., affirms that “he was a most faithful ser- 
vant of Christ, a trusted counselor, a good pastor, a sound 
and able expositor of the word of God, an earnest preacher, 
and, in his long and useful life, an example of godliness, 
of self-sacrifice, of enduring diligence in doing the will of 
God, and of patience in suffering his will. His praise is 
in all the churches, and his reward is great in the kingdom 
of heaven.” 

The Synod of Indiana appointed J. H. Aughey chair- 
man of a committee “To prepare a minute of the regret 
and sorrow of Synod to learn that our venerable father, 
Dr. Paxton, had recently died.” Mr. Aughey, who “ had 
learned to love him almost with the affection of a child, in 
his brief sojourn in Princeton,” has forwarded from Clin- 
ton, Pa., the following: 


29 


33 § 


MEMOIR OF 


“As Dr. Paxton’s successor in charge of the church in 
Princeton, Indiana, I had opportunity to learn the high 
esteem in which he was held by all the members of his 
church and by the citizens of Princeton. His co-presby- 
ters of Vincennes Presbytery and of the Synod of Indiana 
regarded Dr. Paxton as a ripe scholar, a refined and cul- 
tured gentleman, a genial companion, a sincere Christian, 
and a faithful and laborious minister of the gospel. Dr. 
Paxton was gifted in a high degree, and he adorned every 
position to which he was called by the church. As college 
professor, as a foreign missionary, as an author, and as 
pastor he sustained himself creditably and ably. ‘The 
memory of the just is blessed.’ ” 

The correctness of these memorials to departed worth 
are corroborated by notices on record, and by oral testi- 
mony culled from memory. J. H. Rice, in a note dated 
Richmond, January, 1814, thus introduces him to his friend 
Maxwell: “Mr. Paxton is the bearer of this hasty note. 
He is a young man without that exterior polish which 
modern fastidiousness requires, but of truly solid and esti- 
mable qualities. His understanding is good, his piety un- 
questionable, and his desire to be useful such as you could 
wish to find in a minister of the gospel. He will grow in 
your esteem on acquaintance, so that you will say the half 
was not told you.” We think we may say that however 
desirable that “polish” called for by the “fastidious” 
might have been, the want of it was compensated by that 
“ nice perception and observance of rectitude in moral 
principles and practice” which constitutes true refinement, 
and which gained for him ready access to society in the 
higher walks of life. Mr. P. might have paid Dr. R., a 
few years after, in his own coin, and, moreover, as an ex- 
ample of the truth of the old saying, by relating “ that a 
gentleman wishing to have Dr. R. pointed out to him was 


J. D. PAXTON , ; D.D. 


339 


told ‘ to go into the Assembly, and the crossest-looking 
man he would see in the house would be Dr. Rice.’ He 
did so, and soon selected his man.” “It is not always 
safe to judge by the outward appearance.” 

Under date of April, 1816, he again writes: “I rejoice 
to hear of the success of my brother Paxton, than whom 
there is not, I believe, a more faithful laborer to be found 
in the vineyard of our Lord. His worth is great, and I do 
expect his usefulness will be considerable. May God give 
him many seals to his ministry.” — Memoirs , p. 127. 

“ May he long be spared to you, a living mo 7 iument of 
honesty and uprightness , in the midst of this crooked and per- 
verse generation /” said Rev. J. Watt, of Virginia, as he 
stepped from our door, in 1858. 

The following letter we give entire, confident that the 
perusal of it will give pleasure to many : 

“ Poland, Ohio, June 25, 1866. 

“Honored and dear Sir: 

“ Among the numerous letters of congratulation on my 
appointment by the late General Assembly to the Theo- 
logical Seminary of the Northwest with which my friends 
have favored me, there is not one which has given me more 
sincere pleasure than your favor of the 14th instant. To 
say nothing of your claims on other accounts to my cor- 
dial affection and respect, I call to remembrance your re- 
cord, of a period of now half a century, on this subject of 
the system of slavery, which was so long the sin and the 
reproach of our nation, and the evil influence of which, in 
many ways, was felt in the church; and how much the 
cause of truth and righteousness, in reference to that great 
iniquity, is indebted to your early uniform, consistent, and 
wise advocacy ! Whenever the history of the great conflict 


340 


MEMOIR OF 


with that bad system is written, the name of Dr. John 
D. Paxton will hold in it a high and honorable place. I 
congratulate you on having lived to see the triumph of the 
principles for which you so long contended and suffered 
reproach and loss in other ways. 

“I cannot but be gratified by the regard shown by my 
brethren to myself, as identified with the principles which 
have gained so signal a triumph. I trust the gratification 
I feel, in the appointment made by the Assembly, is much 
more for the evidence which this act, along with other 
things, furnishes of a radical change of mind in the church 
on the principles which have been involved in our past con- 
troversies, than on account of any advantage which the 
change brings to myself. 

“The question of my acceptance of this appointment 
is not so clear to me as I could wish. The work is one 
from which any man might well shrink, though he had far 
higher qualifications for it than any which I have ever 
imagined myself to possess. It is my earnest desire that I 
may know, and be enabled to do, the will of God. I have 
not yet given to the Committee a definite answer, but 
must do so soon. 

“ I regret to hear of your late severe illness, and of the 
infirm state of your health, but hope you may be soon re- 
stored to your wonted health and strength. 

“ My brother, who many years ago read your volume on 
slavery, and read it again not long since, and who remem- 
bers with pleasure his pleasant intercourse with you during 
the sessions of the Assembly at Newark, desires his best, 
cordial, and very respectful salutations to be given you. 
Will you please to present mine to Mrs. Paxton? 

“ That God may spare you long to bless the church with 
your presence and counsels, and when he has satisfied you 


J. D. PAXTON, D.D. 34I 

with length of days may give you the crown of life, is the 
prayer of 

“ Yours, most respectfully and truly, 

“ E. D. MacMaster.” 

The volume alluded to above contained sixteen letters 
addressed to the Cumberland Congregation, Virginia, in 
1826, recommended by Rev. James Blythe, D.D., of Cin- 
cinnati, and John Green, Esq., Lincoln, Ky., November, 
1831, but not published until 1833. The object, as stated 
in the preface, was, after a brief narration of the facts that 
occurred in the congregation, to examine more fully than 
the author has seen done, the teaching of Scripture respect- 
ing slavery, notice its manifold evils, the danger which it 
threatens the South, and what religion and self-preserva- 
tion require us to do. 

June, 1836, Dr. R. J. Breckenridge, at the Glasgow Dis- 
cussion, Scotland, was pleased to remark : “ Rev. Mr. Pax- 
ton is now on this side of the Atlantic, and may perhaps 
explain, what Mr. Thompson has so sedulously concealed, 
— how he was a colonizationist ; how he manumitted and 
sent his own servants to Liberia ; how he labored in this 
particular matter with his church, long before the existence 
of abolitionism ; and how, finding the difficulties insuper- 
able, he had written this kind and modest volume, worth 
all the abolition froth ever spread forth, and left the charge 
in which he found it so difficult to preserve an honest con- 
science and a healthful influence.” 

During our sojourn in Cincinnati in 1839, C. E. Stowe, 
Professor in Lane Seminary, remarked to the compiler, 
that “ Mr. P. had the honor of being the first one who had, 
in a slave State, come out plainly and strongly against 
slavery. * ’ 

After the war had begun, when public attention was 
29* 


342 


MEMOIR OF 


much turned to the subject, letters were received by him, 
in Kansas, from Washington and New York, inquiring if 
he was the author of those letters. One gentleman wrote, 
that the work had recently come into his hands, and he 
had read with astonishment reasonings and arguments 
which he had supposed had not, until lately, been broached, 
and asked how he came by those opinions so far back as 
1826. 

Subsequently, he was strongly urged to publish a second 
edition \ but he thought the public mind was sufficiently 
awake to the subject, and that the evil would soon be re- 
moved, and there would be no need of further discussion. 

With what interest he watched the signs of the times, 
and the developments of God’s providential government 
in the world, is known to his associates, as well as the pa- 
tient investigation which he gave to those views on the 
“vexed question” that differed from his own. There was 
not an objection, excuse, or apology brought forward that 
he did not sift to the bottom in the light of divine truth. 

We might hesitate in bringing forward a fact that may 
detract from the well-deserved reputation of such a man as 
Dr. J. H. Rice, had we not Scripture example for noticing 
faults as well as virtues in good men. “ To err is human 
and when a leader in the church takes a wrong step, which 
is followed by disastrous consequences, it is but just the 
blame should rest where it belongs, that it be not thrown 
indiscriminately over a whole class of persons in the church. 
In reply to a request that he would show that the Scriptures 
do not, either in the Old or New Testament, justify Amer- 
ican slavery, and also give reasons for his belief that 
slavery, as it exists in the United States, is the leading sin 
now visited on the nation by this calamitous war, in proof 
of his assertion that leading men in the theological sem- 
inaries sympathized with and favored the pro-slavery senti- 


y. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


343 

ment, he brought into the light some of the inner scenes 
which his position had enabled him to observe. 

“ In 1815 there was in the Confession of Faith, in a note 
under the eighth commandment, this passage among the 

proof-texts, ‘ I. Tim . i. 10. The law is made for man- 

stealers, etc.’ In the General Assembly of 1816 the ques- 
tion was brought up, By what authority that passage was put 
in the Confession ? and on its appearing that it was put in 
by a committee appointed to select and insert proof-texts 
while the Confession was being printed, it was moved and 
carried, ‘ that the text be left out of the copies to be printed 
in future.’ It was left out. The extracts of the minutes 
may not show who made these motions and carried them, 
but the writer knows they were made by J. H. Rice, D.D., 
of Virginia, for he had the information from Dr. Rice him- 
self, after his return from the Assembly.” 

Again, after the excitement in 1826, the doctor published 
in the Virginia Magazine a justification of the system. 
This was the beginning of those defenses and apologies that 
afterward became so numerous. His argument was just 
what the public mind craved ; it was seized upon and spread 
like wild-fire in the South. 

1847, noticing with pain the stand taken by the Southern 
Presbyterian Review on the subject, so much at variance 
with the teachings and declarations of the Presbyterian 
Church, Dr. Paxton collected those declarations and for- 
warded them to the editor, protesting against the unfair- 
ness of publishing, under the banner of Presbyterianism, 
their new versions and opinions* and requesting the inser- 
tion of a brief critique on some of the pro-slavery argu- 
ments. His article was sent back. The Southern mind 
must see but one side of the question. “Indoctrinated in 
the seminaries into pro-slavery teachings, the great body 
of ministers had advocated them, and, I believe, had their 


344 


MEMOIR OF 


full share of influence in bringing on the rebellion and 
fearful war.” 

The second volume, Letters on Palestine and Egypt, 
Dr. E. P. Humphrey has described as, in his estimation, 
“exceedingly valuable, as containing an exact and consci- 
entious narrative of his journey. His patience in acquir- 
ing thorough knowledge, and his accuracy in description, 
gave to his volume unusual importance.” 

Besides these two volumes, Dr. P. published several ser- 
mons and essays in pamphlet form, and furnished articles 
for the religious newspapers. Among the most prominent 
are : 

Christ as a Teacher. Two sermons. 1819. 

The Satisfaction of Christ. Heb. ix. 13, 14. 

Repentance; its Nature, Grounds, and Necessity. 1820. 

Mode of Conducting Oriental Missions, in three letters to 
Dr. R. Anderson, Cor. Sec. A. B. C. F. Missions. 1839. 

Sketch of a Sermon delivered on the Fast-day following 
the Death of President Harrison. Mulberry, May 14th, 
1841. 

Missionary Sermon before the Synod of Kentucky, from 
II. Cor. x. 15, 16. Maysville, 1842. 

Mode and Subjects of Baptism. Christian Communion. 

Was the Pentecost at the Rainy Season of the Year? 

Inquiries concerning Facilities for Immersion in and 
around Jerusalem. 

No Future Return of the Jews called for by Prophecy. 
1844. 

Have Ruling Elders, according to our Book, a Right to 
lay on Hands in the Ordination of Ministers ? Answered 
in affirmative. 

What Constitutes a Call to the Ministry ? 

Divine Inspiration of the Scriptures. 

The Second Advent and Millerism. 


J. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


345 


A Review of a Commentary on the Apocalypse. By 
Moses Stuart, Prof, of Sac. Lit., Theological Seminary, 
Andover. 

Explanations of Remarks made upon the Report of the 
Board of Education to the General Assembly at Louisville, 
Ky. 1844. 

This explanation was given in answer to reports and 
misrepresentations that were printed in the daily papers. 
A few paragraphs will explain the main point. 4 ‘If the 
loss of health and life be as stated in the report, then we 
think there is more reason why the Board should take a 
promise from its candidates to pay a due care to health, 
than to make them promise to take a full course of study 
before they will help them. 

“Another thing which struck me unpleasantly was the ex- 
clusiveness with which the case of beneficiaries was treated 
in the whole report. I know it may be said that this 
is the peculiar province of the Board, and I admit this. 
But as thus far the ministry has been drawn mainly from 
other classes, when raising a ministry for the world is 
spoken of — when the salvation of the world and the wants 
of the church are referred to, as is often done in this re- 
port, the proprieties of the case would seem plainly to re- 
quire that a reference be made to others than poor and 
pious youths, unless, indeed, all does, in the opinion of 
the Board, depend upon them. 

“There is a way of getting clear of company by not 
noticing them ; there is a way of leading persons to omit 
a work by not asking them to do it. Our objection 
was not that we have many poor and pious young men 
looking to the ministry, but that no other class of pious 
men are referred to as having anything to do in the matter. 
All the gratitude is for the increase of those who must be 
aided in their education. Great pleasure is expressed that 


346 


MEMOIR OF 


two-thirds of all the missionaries have been educated by 
the Board. 

“ Now, when this exclusive reference is everywhere made 
to one class, and the church is constantly urged to raise 
means to support them, and not a word said as to the duty 
of pious youth, however talented, who have funds ; not a 
word as to the duty of parents who have pious, talented sons 
and wealth, to give both to the Lord ; while there is almost 
as complete silence on that point as if it was a known fact 
that the head of the church never put a call into hands 
that had the means of education, may it not lead pious 
young men who have means to think it not their duty to 
serve God in the gospel ? — may it not lead families who 
have pious sons, and wealth to educate them, to think that 
if they give something to aid poor young men — the thing 
placed so prominently before them — they may reserve their 
sons and fortunes for more honorable and profitable pro- 
fessions ? I expressed my fears that this would be the tend- 
ency, and that already this tendency was beginning to be 
made manifest. Until a few years past, almost all who en- 
tered the ministry found the means to educate themselves. 
The proportion that educate themselves must have greatly 
fallen off within the last twelve or fifteen years. At the 
same rate, how long will it be before the church will have 
to educate all its candidates for the ministry ? 

“When we now press the claims of religion on an ungodly 
world, they often relieve their consciences by saying, ‘It 
is the preacher’s profession to say these things — he gets his 
living in that way.’ Could the world add to this the fact 
that preachers were all poor men, not able to get an educa- 
tion ; were taken up by the church under the influence of 
preachers, and under promise that they would become 
preachers or refund the money ; were educated and placed 
in a situation in society they otherwise never would have 


y. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


347 


attained, would it not be a fearful offset against the influ- 
ence of preachers ? Had Paul been a poor young man, 
and received his education under promise of preaching the 
gospel as his profession, could he have made those over- 
powering appeals in proof of his disinterested sincerity in 
what he taught? Acts , xx.; II. Cor . ii.; Phil. iii. 

“ But let there be, as there has been heretofore, a due 
proportion of ministers from the middle and more influen- 
tial classes — men who, for standing, wealth, and influence, 
have the means of occupying any profession, to whom 
places of honor and profit are open, who could rank well 
in other departments, who, when they choose the gospel 
ministry as their profession, give up the world for it, and 
often, by the confession of all, preach from a sense of 
duty, forsake much for Christ — then the world sees and 
feels that there must be reality in religion.” 

Dr. P. was systematic in his habits. He rose early, and 
employed the morning in devotion and reading the word 
of God. For some years it was his practice to read a 
chapter in the Bible every day in four or five languages. 
So great was his love for family prayer that he continued 
to lead the devotions of his household long after he was 
confined to his bed. Until death had silenced the sweet 
voices around his altar, and in his own case “the daugh- 
ters of music were brought low,” he began the exercise 
with singing. He had a good ear for music, and a pliancy 
of voice that could adapt itself to the various styles of 
sacred music, from the modern compositions of Mason and 
Woodbury to the old weird-like tunes of the West that he 
learned of his mother. It was rare for him to miss in rais- 
ing the tune in social worship ; and when a failure was made 
by others he could “come to the rescue,” and lead off to 
the relief of all concerned. On Sabbath evening an hour 
was spent, either before or after the recitation of the cate- 


348 


MEMOIR OF 


chism, in singing hymns with his family. The children 
trained at the Mulberry Manse looked back to these hours 
as among the most pleasant in their childhood years. 

He kept an accurate register of accounts from the 
time he entered the ministry — setting down receipts and 
disbursements in all their minutiae. These accounts were 
made up at the end of the year and then filed away and 
preserved for reference. They furnish data on some im- 
portant points, and are suggestive in many ways. Adopt- 
ing the rule of devoting to the treasury of the Lord a 
tenth part of whatever income he received, he was scrupu- 
lously exact in subtracting the tithe, and then exercised his 
discretion in bestowing it where he thought it was most 
called for. He was generous, and often spent more than 
this tithe in charity. Besides annual contributions to the 
Boards of the church, Bible, Tract, and Colonization So- 
cieties, Colleges and Theological Seminaries, there are 
numerous entries of sums to private individuals. The deli- 
cate regard he had for the feelings of these is indicated by 
inserting the initial of the name against the sum, and 
oftentimes not even that. 

He always lived within his income, and never contracted 
a debt that he did not see a way of liquidating before it 
became due. His salary was never large — never much ex- 
ceeding six hundred dollars, and oftener falling short of 
five hundred dollars, per year.* He bore a part in defray- 
ing the necessary expenses of the churches with which he 
was connected, and that in congregations possessing wealth 
— helping to pay the sexton, furnish lamps, fuel, etc. In 
two instances only, 1844 and 1847, did the amount of 
salary received overbalance family expenses. A small 


* The largest marriage-fee he received was twenty dollars, given by 
an M.D. 


J. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


349 


legacy left him by his father, with property acquired by 
marriage, and now and then a handsome compensation for 
a transient service in some pulpit in a large city, invested 
with prudence, yielded an income for a respectable main- 
tenance of his family; and notwithstanding some heavy 
losses, from failures of those to whom he had intrusted his 
funds, he had, by economy and wise management, secured 
what raised him above want in his declining days, and 
leaves a home and comfortable support to the surviving 
members of his family. 

This statement is given to the public, not by way of 
complaint, but for two reasons — that the people at large 
may have some definite conception of the self-denying 
sacrifices ministers endure in a pecuniary way, — or, in other 
words, how much they pay for the privilege of preaching 
the gospel in our own land,— and that there may be a fair 
expose of the matter, lest some might argue that six hun- 
dred dollars, or five hundred dollars, with a manse and 
ground to cultivate, was an ample support, a careful sum- 
ming up of items shows that there was an outlay of five 
hundred and sixty dollars, required, exclusive of hired 
labor, to enable the pastor to avail himself of the advan- 
tage ; and secondly, as proving that the blessing is as sure 
to come on those who now in the nineteenth century give 
for the spread of the gospel “as God has prospered them,” 
as was the promise fulfilled to those who under the Jewish 
dispensation honored God with their substance, and proved 
him by bringing all the tithes into the store-house. 

Regarding himself as a steward, accountable for the por- 
tion of worldly goods intrusted to him, he did not feel 
himself at liberty either to waste his substance, or through 
indifference or carelessness to allow others to defraud him 
of or absorb what was rightfully his due. Hence we find 
him reminding an old creditor that though he, by availing 

3 ° 


35 ° 


MEMOIR OF 


himself of the bankrupt law, might be legally absolved 
from his obligation to cancel the debt, yet he was morally 
bound to pay it if his circumstances were such that he 
could do it. 

Believing that a little incident may oftentimes give an 
insight into the character which the most elaborate analysis 
will fail to produce, a number of anecdotes and events, 
with which Dr. P. was wont to illustrate topics of conver- 
sation in a familiar way, will be introduced, premising that 
he was not remarkable for volubility in speaking of his own 
experience or what had come under his own observation, 
but when drawn out could be communicative. 

His religion was practical. In his frequent and extensive 
journeys an instance is not known of his being found in a 
stage, steamboat, or car on the Sabbath. His habit was to 
shave every day, as regularly as he washed his face in the 
morning, until his friend, Judge Brown, in conversation, 
happened to mention that some preachers of another de- 
nomination, who had lodged with him, applying for a 
razor on Sabbath morning, he sent them the razor with the 
remark “that it would cut very well on week-days, but he 
did not know how it would work on Sunday,” induced him 
to perform that operation on Saturday eve to the remainder 
of his life. 

“In May, 1832, Mr. Weld lectured in Danville, Ky., 
on temperance, from Tuesday to Sabbath eight times, with 
great effect.” Dr. P. entered cordially into the total absti- 
nence plan, and sometimes related with great glee how he 
and Margaret, according to the custom of the times, had 
taken great pains to make a nice cordial out of cherries and 
spirit, and made it palatable with sugar and spice, thinking 
they had something extra ; that after they had signed the 
pledge they debated what was to be done with the cherry, 
and how they took it out into the garden and poured it all 


y. D. PAXTON , ; D.D. 


35 * 


out, and brought the empty keg back to the house. The 
attentive reader may recollect that bottles of wine made no 
part of his traveling stores in those countries where wine 
was abundant ; and it may be added that it was only as a 
medical prescription he consented to take a little wine in 
his extreme feebleness, and that he gave it as his opinion 
to the last that he doubted whether it ever had a beneficial 
effect upon him. 

Dr. Paxton was a friend to Sabbath-schools, taking the 
oversight, not as superintendent, but by suggestions and 
advice, as occasions called for; calling attention to the 
importance of a careful selection of the books composing 
the library, the advantages to youth of committing the 
Scriptures to memory, as also the Shorter Catechism with 
the Scripture proofs, as furnishing them with an invaluable 
“ form of sound words,” which in after-life no adversary of 
the truth would be able to gainsay or resist — enjoining upon 
parents to guard against relinquishing their responsibility 
and allowing the school to supersede family instruction and 
attendance upon the preached word in the religious train- 
ing of their children. 

Possessing a preference for his country and church, and 
that a strong one, he was not so narrow-minded, partial, 
and bigoted as to see no good in others, or no faults in his 
own ; he could fraternize with men of other countries and 
other sects, and unite with them in plans of doing good. 
Through his whole ministerial course he showed his willing- 
ness to co-operate with Christians of whatever name, when- 
ever circumstances admitted of his doing so. Because 
some notion or some measure did not meet his approbation, 
he did not feel called upon to denounce those who held to 
them, or to withhold his Christian love and sympathy. 
Meeting with Methodist itinerants in Virginia, in his first 
missionary labors, he united with them in beseeching men 


35 2 


MEMOIR OF 


to be reconciled to God, although constrained to enter in 
his journal, occasionally, “a little of the jerks” and 
“much confusion,” etc. 

A scene in the old Methodist church in P. will not be 
soon forgotten by those who witnessed it. A series of 
meetings had been held, and numbers had been awakened 
and hopefully converted. The young preacher, Mr. H., 
afterward the beloved chaplain of the 58th Indiana Regi- 
ment, had the charge of the society. Other ministers had 
gathered to the place to help on the good work. Dr. P. 
attended to manifest his interest, and was always ready to 
assist by prayer or a word of exhortation. Attending one 
evening when the excitement was great, and the hearts of 
the brethren warmed up with the success of their efforts, 
he was called upon to lead in prayer. He commenced with 
much earnestness, and was proceeding with great fervor, 
when the brethren around him began to manifest their 
sympathy in tones so loud, and to respond with such hearty 
good-will, as almost to drown his utterance. He raised 
his voice, as if to rise above the din around him, and for a 
moment or two struggled to continue his supplications. 
Stopping short, he looked around and said, “Brethren ! if 
any of you want to pray, do so ; I can’t in such a noise.” 
Silence immediately ensued, and he went on with his 
prayer. 

At Malta he labored nearly seven months, in connection 
with a Methodist and a German Episcopalian. His visits 
to missions around the Mediterranean were to Protestants, 
irrespective of sects or country ; and for a long time his 
traveling companion was a young Englishman. 

In the fall of 1864, Bishop Simpson attended a confer- 
ence of the M. E. Church, held in P., Indiana. Dr. P. 
called upon him to make his acquaintance, and offered the 
use of the Presbyterian house for him to conduct the ser- 


y. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


353 

vices on the Sabbath, it being larger than the building the 
Methodists then occupied. The offer was accepted, and 
on Sabbath morning he called for the bishop and two of 
the leading preachers, led the way to the church, and 
showed them into his pulpit, taking a seat with them. The 
bishop, on his part, courteously requested the doctor to 
take a part in the imposition of hands, in the ordination 
of a number of candidates that was to take place in the 
afternoon. He consented with the remark, “That per- 
haps some might object to a mixture of the Presbyterial 
element;” to which the bishop replied, very pleasantly, 
“A little of that will do no harm.” 

It is pleasant to record such interchanges of Christian 
courtesy and confidence between men of different denom- 
inations. They show that the hearts of all Christ’s minis- 
ters were not so destitute of love to those out of their own 
pale as some of the zealous advocates for organic union 
would have us believe. 

But, on the other hand, Dr. P. was not slow in dis- 
countenancing any assumption of ecclesiastical authority 
by the ministers of the New Testament. At a time when 
more than usual prominence had been given to the claims 
of the Episcopal clergy to apostolic succession, one of that 
order applied for the use of his church, to perform service 
for the benefit of a few attached to that branch of the 
church. With the concurrence of the session, answer was 
returned that he could have the house provided he was 
willing to reciprocate in case a similar application was 
made by a Presbyterian. The gentleman replied, that he 
might not have any objection to do so as far as concerned 
himself, but such an admission would not pass with appro- 
bation in the diocese to which he was amenable. Justice 
requires it to be stated that the church would not have 
been withheld had there been no other place to be obtained. 

3 °* 


354 


MEMOIR OF 


The court-house, which had been occupied successively by 
other societies, was open to all. 

There was a celebration of the Eucharist by the Episco- 
palians in Danville ; services conducted in the Presbyterian 
church. Two or more of the Episcopal clergy officiated, 
but not the slightest token of recognition as a brother in 
the ministry was tendered him. Not long after, meeting 
a much esteemed lady acquaintance, she accosted him with, 
“Oh, Mr. Paxton! why did you not commune with us? 
We were so disappointed !” The tone and manner indi- 
cated that she felt the matter deeply. He replied, “ Well, 
Mrs. McD., as you have asked me I will tell you why. 
When I accepted the charge of this church, I did it as an 
accredited minister of the Lord Jesus Christ, with full au- 
thority to administer the ordinances in his name. I was 
not invited forward to commune with the ministers ; they 
made the separation, and I did not feel like divesting my- 
self of my official character in the presence of my flock, 
and thus impliedly admitting the assumption that I had no 
authority for exercising my vocation as an office-bearer in 
the church of the Lord. It was not from the want of kind 
feeling, Mrs. McD.” The lady was silent. He would 
magnify his office. 

In cautioning against attributing any holy influence to 
the elements, aside from the blessing of God accompany- 
ing the administration, he mentioned, as an illustration of 
this feeling, the sequel to the above. A degree of solici- 
tude was felt as to the quantity of the bread and wine 
necessary to supply the communicants, and inquiry made 
in several directions to ascertain how many of other 
churches would join with them. As a body the Presby- 
terians held back. A considerable quantity of the conse- 
crated emblems was not used, and after the service the 
question was, how to dispose of it. Under the impression, 


y. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


355 


it would seem, that it must all be eaten and drunk, they ate 
up the bread ; but judging that the wine was too much for 
them, concluded to give it to a certain brother who had a 
taste that way, for if he would drink it was better for him 
to have good wine than bad. 

At a much earlier date he was invited by a friend to at- 
tend the baptism of his child. The ordinance was admin- 
istered at the parent’s residence, by an Episcopal bishop. 
After it was all over, and the company conversing on other 
topics, the bishop suddenly started, as if recollecting some- 
thing that had been omitted, and turning to the father in- 
quired : “Mr. Blank, what has been done with that water ?’ ’ 
“I do not know, sir, it has been taken out; but if it is of 
any importance I will go and see.” “I wish you would, 
Mr. Blank, do so by all means ; have the water poured out 
carefully; it might be well enough to have the child’s face 
and hands washed with it, but on no account have it 
applied to any common purpose. ’ ’ 

In directing attention to the simplicity of the rites insti- 
tuted by Christ, and their adaptation to the various condi- 
tions in which man is found, he mentioned an occurrence 
which took place in one of the waste places, where a few 
of the friends of the Saviour had met in a private house to 
celebrate his death. After the preaching in the morning, 
many of the congregation remained for the afternoon ser- 
vice, and dined with the family. As he was about to com- 
mence the exercises, the lady of the house came to him in 
great pertubation, saying, “Mr. P., what shall we do, the 
servants have eaten up all the light-bread?” “Madam, 
have you any other kind of wheat-bread in the house?” 
“Not a bit.” “Have you any corn-bread?” “Yes, I 
have.” “ Well, then, prepare some of that as nicely as you 
can, and bring it in.” She did, and the celebration passed 
off in the usual way. 


35 6 


MEMOIR OF 


Dr. P. did not anticipate such great advantages from or- 
ganic union in the church as do its ardent advocates. He 
thought it doubtful whether as much good would be accom- 
plished by one large ecclesiastical body, taking human 
nature as it is, with its varieties of taste and sentiments, as 
would be by the various denominations working together 
in harmony and love. In this spiritual sense did he under- 
stand the prayer of our Lord, “That they maybe one.” 
Much of the supposed unity of the Papal Church is due to 
the binding force of the fear of excommunication, and the 
deprivation of the rite of Christian burial. Protestant 
freedom and liberty must have a wider range. 

The following communication from a niece in Missouri 
is inserted, as not only exhibiting the kind and sympa- 
thizing relative, but also as indicating one of the trains of 
thought by which his own mind was strengthened to bear 
with such humble acquiescence the many sorrows allotted 
him. 

“ I was truly sorry to hear of the death of my dear uncle. 
I have always loved and respected him, almost as a father; 
for I was deprived by death of my own father in early life, 
and he was so kind, as a brother, to my dear mother in her 
widowhood, that I almost reverenced him, and had hoped 
to see him once more on earth: but God’s will be done, 
not mine. I will give you an extract from one of uncle’s 
letters, written when I was mourning for a beloved brother. 
He was writing of mother’s trials and afflictions. She had 
lost her husband and one very dear son, now another was 
taken. He says, ‘Truly sister has met many and great 
trials, more than usually fall to the lot of an individual, 
and yet how much better to have them all , and the grace 
with which Christ has accompanied them to her, than to 
have escaped them and been deprived of that grace ! I 
think that her trials have been much blessed to her, and I 


y. D . PAXTON, P.D. 


357 


hope to all her children ; and when we consider that this 
world is but a place of discipline, a place and a time to 
prepare for another and eternal state of existence, almost 
anything that is made to work for our spiritual good, to 
prepare us for a better world, ought to be received as the 
messenger of great good. 

“‘The best of all judgment of things, comforts, or 
trials, is their bearing on our future state. If the trial 
leads us to God, how it should reconcile us to it ! And if 
prosperity leads us from Him, how ought we to fear it ! 
How earnestly did Moses warn Israel against the danger of 
prosperity ! Deut. viii. And how constantly did Israel for- 
get the Lord in prosperity, and return and seek His face in 
distress and affliction ! Adversity was td them better on 
the whole than prosperity. It is very often thus with 
God’s people. His grace can sanctify prosperity, but, as a 
matter of fact, I think adversity is more frequently sanc- 
tified. This need not lead us to desire adversity, but 
should lead us to leave all to the wise ordering of God, and 
especially to live in the habit of daily and earnest prayer, 
that He would order our lot, and make all His dispensa- 
tions toward us work for our good.’ 

“ May God bless and prosper your undertaking. 

“P. M. Stratten.” 

A list of sermons preached numbers 5769. His custom 
was to enter the date of time and place, text and number 
of sermon, in a book prepared for the purpose, immediately 
on his return from preaching. To this list was added names 
of ministers who preached for him, ordinances adminis- 
tered, funerals, Presbyteries and Synods attended, with 
short references to cases of uncommon interest. Others 
may have preached as much, but few have sown the seed 
over such a large field ; from Lecompton in the West, to 


358 


MEMOIR OF J. D. PAXTON, D.D. 


Jerusalem in the East ; from Maine to Tennessee ; on the 
ocean and the isles of the sea; in more than 584 places; 
to the high and the low, the rich and the poor, the bond 
and the free, did he delight to preach the unsearchable 
riches of Christ. And when called upon to cease his voca- 
tion, the greatness of the honor conferred upon him, an 
honor transcending aught that earth can confer, in that he 
was “allowed of God to be put in trust with the gospel,” 
filled his soul with gratitude and love. 

Dr. P was the seventh of nine children, who all lived to 
maturity, the greater part attaining their threescore and 
ten, and two to over fourscore years. Of his eight chil- 
dren, but two survive him, with also a son and a daughter 
of his adopted daughter, Mary. 

“The grass withereth, the flower fadeth; but the word 

OF OUR GOD SHALL STAND FOREVER. * * 













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